Weird Electrical Issue

[tehrlich]

The last few weeks I've noticed that starter is slightly delayed, even a little sputter. I bought the RT just a few months ago from the dealer. 3500 miles.

Tonight, I stopped to get gas, and went to start her up. It sputtered and died with the complete screen going black. I turned the key off and right back on. The screen came up fast and skipped the safety step.

I attempted to start again, but it really choked, sputtered, and then the screen began to go out. It took about a second, but the screen pixelated and drifted out. Then, it was completely dead. Nothing. Key wouldn't turn anything on.

I checked all the fuses in the frunk and they were ok. Nothing loose either. About 10 minutes later, I tried the key again, and everything lit up. It also started like it was brand new. The clock zeroed out too.

Any idea what this may have been? I don't think I did anything to fix anything loose.

[Highwayman2013]

Start at the battery connections.

[samewok]

What year is your bike?
If it is 2014 take it to the dealer and have the buds updated.
That could be the problem.

[Chupaca]

If the clock zeroed out you had a full loss of power. There must be a bad connection somewhere possibly a ground strap to the frame. Still being a 15 good time to have the dealer deal....

[tehrlich]

Thanks for the responses.

I guess it could be something loose, but how does something go loose and then connect on it's own?

The only thing I did was open the frunk, open the seat to retrieve the fishing pliers I put in the tool kit to pull out fuses, pulled all fuses out, placed them back in, pulled the pre-start thingy on the fuse box, put it back in, closed the frunk, closed the seat, and it started right up with a turn of the key.

And, it seemed like it started solidly without a slight hesitation.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Thanks for the responses.

I guess it could be something loose, but how does something go loose and then connect on it's own?

The only thing I did was open the frunk, open the seat to retrieve the fishing pliers I put in the tool kit to pull out fuses, pulled all fuses out, placed them back in, pulled the pre-start thingy on the fuse box, put it back in, closed the frunk, closed the seat, and it started right up with a turn of the key.

And, it seemed like it started solidly without a slight hesitation.

....Starting with your first post on this.....If the dealer didn't PROPERLY do the initial charge on your spyder's battery, this could be an issue....Do you keep the Spyder on a Battery Maintainer ? ? ?....Now the GOOD news...everything that happens on the Spyder will be stored in the Computer and can be retrieved using BUDS...If "THEY " tell you they can't find anything.....Then tell them "THEY " need to get some assistance from BRP in how to retrieve it........because the info is in there......good luck.....Mike 

---

[trikermutha]

It does not take much to get a crap connection when loose..The battery post sounded like a place to start or take it back to the dealer..

[tehrlich]

Its always on a battery tender/charger.

[Big Will 51]

Since you lost every thing most of the fuses could have no effect on the problem. From what you described it has to be the battery or the connection to it. Make sure the cable for your battery tender is making a good connection. You may not be charging it when you think you are. Also check the charge you are using, if it does not manage the charge it could damage the battery. The better chargers check the battery and will cut back on the charge as the battery reaches full charge. Make sure your battery is not over heating. The connections to the battery may also be corroted, you may not see it and it may feel tight. But it will keep you from getting a good connection. Heat will influence how corroted connection will act. If this was a car I would also check for a relay thats activated from the key. If you have too many light or other electrical demand on the battery before you start the bike the relay can arc causing dead spots. Even if there is no relay keeping the load on the battery down before the bike is started will help with the life of the battery. Also make sure the generator is charging the battery when it running. Hope this helps.

[tehrlich]

Something is radically wrong.

So, it fires up really well now. My batter tender shows it is charged in just a couple minutes, but NOW it cannot shift to Reverse, and it does not down shift automatically while slowing down.

When I go to shift to Reverse, the tachometer revs slightly but thats it. Won't engage.

Something is fried.

[Ben Burped]

Start by disconnecting your battery and taking it to be load tested. If it passes, clean the terminals and connectors with a wire brush, smear on a little grease, and put everything tightly back together. Allow the battery tender to do it's thing overnight and take the key with you. Try it the next morning and see what it does then.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

What year is your Spyder? If it's two or more years it's most likely the battery. If the bike was allowed to sit for several months with a discharged battery then the battery could easily be crapped out. Also you say it charges back up in just a few minutes. That is almost a guarantee it's shot. A quick charge to full means its ampere capacity is quite low. Voltage does not equate to amp-hour capacity or to cold cranking amp capacity.

[Gray Ghost]

...Now the GOOD news...everything that happens on the Spyder will be stored in the Computer and can be retrieved using BUDS... 

BUDS only stores codes. It is entirely possible that the symptoms the OP is seeing did not generate a code.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

BUDS only stores codes. It is entirely possible that the symptoms the OP is seeing did not generate a code.

....Well then maybe you can explain why a BRP tech ( at Spyderfest ) retrieved 246 EVENTS ( some were codes ,some weren't ) related to my paddle shifter. I had brought it to His attention because of this issue. However I never saw anything close to 246 " flashes " to my instrument screen.........Mike

[tehrlich]

It is a 2015 and only about 4 months old. I've ridden it just about every day, and kept it on the dealer-installed tender for the last couple of months.

I really do not see how it is the battery. It now powers up like the day I got it AFTER the catastrophic shut down. It starts even faster then it did over the last month as the starter seemed to have some delay.

Now it can't go into reverse or downshift automatically. Everything else is fully functional: lights, radio, etc.,

Well, I appreciate the comments. Thank you..

Will be taking to my dealer asap, and will let you know.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

BUDS only stores codes. It is entirely possible that the symptoms the OP is seeing did not generate a code.

BUDS does a whole lot more than just store codes. It stores a histogram of engine RPM, sets the steering angle sensor and torque sensor, and can give the tech detailed information about the last minute of operation, plus more I don't know about. Ann or Joe could tell us as they have the s/w to communicate with BUDS. On the 2014 and newer it's used to program in keys. It's also used to update all the s/w in the computers on board.

Just to clarify, BUDS is the BRP Utility Diagnostic System which is the s/w on the laptop that is hooked up to the Spyder to read all the info contained in the Spyder computers. BUDS doesn't exist in the Spyder itself.

[trikermutha]

Battery tender or charger can still show a charged battery and the battery still can be crap.

[Gray Ghost]

....Well then maybe you can explain why a BRP tech ( at Spyderfest ) retrieved 246 EVENTS ( some were codes ,some weren't ) related to my paddle shifter. I had brought it to His attention because of this issue. However I never saw anything close to 246 " flashes " to my instrument screen.........Mike

BUDS does a whole lot more than just store codes. It stores a histogram of engine RPM, sets the steering angle sensor and torque sensor, and can give the tech detailed information about the last minute of operation, plus more I don't know about. Ann or Joe could tell us as they have the s/w to communicate with BUDS. On the 2014 and newer it's used to program in keys. It's also used to update all the s/w in the computers on board.

Just to clarify, BUDS is the BRP Utility Diagnostic System which is the s/w on the laptop that is hooked up to the Spyder to read all the info contained in the Spyder computers. BUDS doesn't exist in the Spyder itself.

I am familiar with BUDS, and the Yamaha Diagnostic System, and the Suzuki Diagnostic System, etc. Yes they can all retrieve codes from their respective systems and do other things, such as the RPM profiles. But they are not a magic box that can accurately tell you that the ground connection to the frame is loose, something like that might trigger a code that is totally unrelated. The electronic diagnostic systems are a tool, and just like any tool, it is only as good as the individual using it.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I am familiar with BUDS, and the Yamaha Diagnostic System, and the Suzuki Diagnostic System, etc. Yes they can all retrieve codes from their respective systems and do other things, such as the RPM profiles. But they are not a magic box that can accurately tell you that the ground connection to the frame is loose, something like that might trigger a code that is totally unrelated. The electronic diagnostic systems are a tool, and just like any tool, it is only as good as the individual using it.

Sorry about the unintended insult. I guess I just read your comment a little bit too simplistically.

[kbwitt]

U

It is a 2015 and only about 4 months old. I've ridden it just about every day, and kept it on the dealer-installed tender for the last couple of months.

I really do not see how it is the battery. It now powers up like the day I got it AFTER the catastrophic shut down. It starts even faster then it did over the last month as the starter seemed to have some delay.

Now it can't go into reverse or downshift automatically. Everything else is fully functional: lights, radio, etc.,

Well, I appreciate the comments. Thank you..

Will be taking to my dealer asap, and will let you know.

It is a very simple fix. If you bought it 4 months ago from a dealer. Pick up your phone snd call dealer.

[tehrlich]

U


It is a very simple fix. If you bought it 4 months ago from a dealer. Pick up your phone snd call dealer.

Wow, I don't think I could've ever thought of this without your intellect. Thanks!

[latony007]

I can attest to battery tenders showing green even when the battery is toast. And would not be the first bad battery, however if it fires up now and runs but wont let you go into gear (i assume an auto trans) then you may have another problem. Id ride it around for 20 minutes see if the voltage thing comes up then you know the battery is dead or not being charged enough. Not sure what effect that would have on an auto trans... but again since your in warranty just take it in, despite the pain the butt that is

[tehrlich]

Resolved. Found two things.

Before taking to the dealer, I heeded the advice here and checked the battery cables. Sure enough, the positive was loose. This explains the total power loss and sporadic starting delays (I think.)

Then, the inability to go in reverse was because the shifting relay near the fuses was not in correctly. The service technician told me that the shifting relay has been a small problem on the 2015 but not enough for a recall. The three prongs aren't pushed in correctly, or something to that effect. He replaced the relay.

Did my 3,000 mile service too. My belt had almost no vibration at the typical RPMs afterwards. The must have tightened it.

I requested a "laser alignment" but they stated that my new Shamrock rims couldn't be laser aligned. I don't know what that means, but it tracks perfectly even after their "standard alignment."

Thanks for the input on this issue!

[Gray Ghost]

I requested a "laser alignment" but they stated that my new Shamrock rims couldn't be laser aligned. I don't know what that means,...

I haven't looked at the Shamrock rims, but the mandrels used in the laser alignment are precision machined to fit in the standard rim hubs. Perhaps the Shamrock design is different enough that the mandrels would not fit.