1330 oil level......

[windancer]

So.....let me get this straight.

Because I put in the entire contents of the official, dealer recommended BRP oil change kit--the kit that the dealer told me was designed SPECIFICALLY FOR the 1330 SE 6--which said kit includes various sized unidentified o-rings, one long oil filter, AND one gallon (4 qts) plus 2 quart bottles=6 quarts of an unidentified viscosity oil--. . . .After all this, that I screwed up???!!.

And now, after hours of distilling the posts of some of the greatest Spyder minds in the known world, I read that one cannot trust the owners manual. Of course BRP didn't send me notice, and even some dealers were not given the memo about the reduced qty of magic dino goo. And did anyone at the BRP parts division happen to tell the minions on the assembly line?? Factory Manager to worker bee: "Hey Joe: from now on, only put ONE quart bottle of oil in the box. And instead of dropping in that second quart bottle, in its place, drop in this easy to understand, 8-1/2 x 11, color glossy, diagrammed instruction sheet:"

"Spyder Oil change kit for the complete idiots":

Step 1: Reveal the 'sacred oil level check dance ritual" that details how to do correctly warm up the engine before performing this delicate surgical procedure. (Ride the bike for exactly nine miles, idle the engine for ten minutes, wait for the radiator fans cycle on twice, and only after all this can you begin.
Step 2: The instructions would diagram exactly where the drain plugs were located WHICH SIZE WRENCHES ARE NEEDED, and suggest you pull the plug one on the LEFT SIDE of the underbelly FIRST--then the one on the right side--otherwise you create a bloody mess on your garage floor.
Step 3: The instructions would then diagram which o-ring goes on which plug & oil filter thingy, complete with circles, arrows, and spec sizes.
Step 4: Then the instructions would break the news: you now need only FIVE quarts of oil (included in the kit) to start off. . .don't do as the owners manual says.
Step 5: Button everything up and repeat the step 1 (Sacred Oil level check level dance)
Step 6: When engine is hot enough to melt mild steel, pull the dipstick, hold it against a paper towel to get a reading (because fresh oil is almost clear)
Step 6: If the level is below the LOWER MARK of the dipstick, add only enough oil to bring that level to that LOWER MARK . NEVER above the upper mark.

WARNING:If you screw up (like I did, by adding another full quart) you will have to begin the entire procedure over again.

Aha!! Rocket Science lives at BRP!!

[ulflyer]

Jack,
Try laying the dipstick on a piece of paper towel. Enough oil should transfer to the towel, that you can figure out where it was on the stick...

If you don't have a paper towel, use your buddy's pant leg.

[ulflyer]

So.....let me get this straight.

Because I put in the entire contents of the official, dealer recommended BRP oil change kit--the kit that the dealer told me was designed SPECIFICALLY FOR the 1330 SE 6--which said kit includes various sized unidentified o-rings, one long oil filter, AND one gallon (4 qts) plus 2 quart bottles=6 quarts of an unidentified viscosity oil--. . . .After all this, that I screwed up???!!.

And now, after hours of distilling the posts of some of the greatest Spyder minds in the known world, I read that one cannot trust the owners manual. Of course BRP didn't send me notice, and even some dealers were not given the memo about the reduced qty of magic dino goo. And did anyone at the BRP parts division happen to tell the minions on the assembly line?? Factory Manager to worker bee: "Hey Joe: from now on, only put ONE quart bottle of oil in the box. And instead of dropping in that second quart bottle, in its place, drop in this easy to understand, 8-1/2 x 11, color glossy, diagrammed instruction sheet:"

"Spyder Oil change kit for the complete idiots":

Step 1: Reveal the 'sacred oil level check dance ritual" that details how to do correctly warm up the engine before performing this delicate surgical procedure. (Ride the bike for exactly nine miles, idle the engine for ten minutes, wait for the radiator fans cycle on twice, and only after all this can you begin.
Step 2: The instructions would diagram exactly where the drain plugs were located WHICH SIZE WRENCHES ARE NEEDED, and suggest you pull the plug one on the LEFT SIDE of the underbelly FIRST--then the one on the right side--otherwise you create a bloody mess on your garage floor.
Step 3: The instructions would then diagram which o-ring goes on which plug & oil filter thingy, complete with circles, arrows, and spec sizes.
Step 4: Then the instructions would break the news: you now need only FIVE quarts of oil (included in the kit) to start off. . .don't do as the owners manual says.
Step 5: Button everything up and repeat the step 1 (Sacred Oil level check level dance)
Step 6: When engine is hot enough to melt mild steel, pull the dipstick, hold it against a paper towel to get a reading (because fresh oil is almost clear)
Step 6: If the level is below the LOWER MARK of the dipstick, add only enough oil to bring that level to that LOWER MARK . NEVER above the upper mark.

WARNING:If you screw up (like I did, by adding another full quart) you will have to begin the entire procedure over again.

Aha!! Rocket Science lives at BRP!!

Now you got the hang of it. Get the ole suction hose out and do your thing. After that, park it for winter as its too cold for normal human beings to ride in Utah anyway!

[zbunker]

I changed oil at the 8K and put a six qt. oil pan under the machine and filled it up to 1/4" from the top ! measured it and it was six qts. and the first oil change was done by a reputable dealer. This is why I do all my own work. My dip stick reads at the fill mark when hot, when cold half of that. Reason I check when cold ? I drove a lot of Fords in the old days and you always added before you left.

I drove a lot of Fords too. Sometimes you had to add before you arrived
But seriously, I check before I leave also. I can't get the concept of firing up an engine and running it until it reaches operating temperature and THEN check to see how the oil is....... Guess it's the Ford still in me.
Ron

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I drove a lot of Fords too. Sometimes you had to add before you arrived
But seriously, I check before I leave also. I can't get the concept of firing up an engine and running it until it reaches operating temperature and THEN check to see how the oil is....... Guess it's the Ford still in me.
Ron

So just check the oil when you get home.....then it's good when you start the next time .....Mike