Another Trailer Hitch Harness Question

[Lucky]

First let me say I'm admittedly trying to be lazy. I have a 2015 RTS-SE6. I bought a BRP trailer hitch off EBay without the wiring harness. I'm planning on going with the Showchrome trailer harness rather than the BRP one. I'm not concerned with opening up the rear of the bike to get at the light plug ins. Now the lazy part. I would like to get wires up to the battery in front rather than tapping a power source in the rear. I'm pretty good fishing wires through vehicles so, is there a safe way to fish wires back to front instead of removing all that Tupperware? If so, which side is the safest path? Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Bob

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

First let me say I'm admittedly trying to be lazy. I have a 2015 RTS-SE6. I bought a BRP trailer hitch off EBay without the wiring harness. I'm planning on going with the Showchrome trailer harness rather than the BRP one. I'm not concerned with opening up the rear of the bike to get at the light plug ins. Now the lazy part. I would like to get wires up to the battery in front rather than tapping a power source in the rear. I'm pretty good fishing wires through vehicles so, is there a safe way to fish wires back to front instead of removing all that Tupperware? If so, which side is the safest path? Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Bob

There is a wire at the back of the bike under the seat specifically for the purpose of providing battery power for the trailer lights with its own fuse in the fuse box. All we need to do is find which one it is. It comes to the big connector for the tail wiring harness but does not have a matching wire on the lights harness side of the connector.

I think you'd be better off to tap into that one rather than running a wire all the way to the battery.

[Windagetray]

Winger is right.

I just did a wiring job on mine and traced out everything to do with any trailer wiring. Look for my post (I think in THIS forum). The ground and B+ (battery wire) were a bit heavier conductors than the light wires. They are there to power an isolator. Good Luck!

Mike

There is a wire at the back of the bike under the seat specifically for the purpose of providing battery power for the trailer lights with its own fuse in the fuse box. All we need to do is find which one it is. It comes to the big connector for the tail wiring harness but does not have a matching wire on the lights harness side of the connector.

I think you'd be better off to tap into that one rather than running a wire all the way to the battery.

[Lucky]

Winger is right.

I just did a wiring job on mine and traced out everything to do with any trailer wiring. Look for my post (I think in THIS forum). The ground and B+ (battery wire) were a bit heavier conductors than the light wires. They are there to power an isolator. Good Luck!

Mike

Thanks for the advice. I will look into the light harness. If indeed the power is not passed through, I may try to add a pin to the plug rather than using a posi-tap. I have your earlier post for reference.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Thanks for the advice. I will look into the light harness. If indeed the power is not passed through, I may try to add a pin to the plug rather than using a posi-tap. I have your earlier post for reference.

According to the wiring diagram for the 2013 RT the power wire is Orange/Violet. The third photo in the first post of this thread of mine shows where the connector is on the 2013 RT. There's a good chance, I think, your bike will be the same. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-lights-Part-1.

Adding a pin is feasible except I'm not sure what brand/style those 12 pin connectors are. They might be the same as the flat four and five wire connectors which are AMP/TE Connectivity Superseal series 1.5. You can get pins and seals from Newark.com or Mouser.com. I'll try to remember to take a look at some connectors tomorrow and if they are the AMP ones I have some pins and seals I can send you, since you only need one. But for one connection I think a posi-tap is the better way to go. Less hassle plus you can use the female spade connector type on the harness and give yourself an easy way to disconnect the trailer harness if ever you need to.

[Lucky]

According to the wiring diagram for the 2013 RT the power wire is Orange/Violet. The third photo in the first post of this thread of mine shows where the connector is on the 2013 RT. There's a good chance, I think, your bike will be the same. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-lights-Part-1.

Adding a pin is feasible except I'm not sure what brand/style those 12 pin connectors are. They might be the same as the flat four and five wire connectors which are AMP/TE Connectivity Superseal series 1.5. You can get pins and seals from Newark.com or Mouser.com. I'll try to remember to take a look at some connectors tomorrow and if they are the AMP ones I have some pins and seals I can send you, since you only need one. But for one connection I think a posi-tap is the better way to go. Less hassle plus you can use the female spade connector type on the harness and give yourself an easy way to disconnect the trailer harness if ever you need to.

Good point. You're convincing me. I like the spade tap idea.

[tnhoover]

I bought the trailer isolater kit from Value Accesseries (forum vendor). No wire tapping, draws power directly from the battery. Think I paid les than $100 and it was well worth it for ease of install. Over a year now with no issues.