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  1. #1
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    Default Battery Tender Connections

    For the first time, I am hooking up my 2014 RT-S to a battery tender. Where is the best place on the chassis to connect the negative battery tender clip?

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    Very Active Member Devious56's Avatar
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    I would put it right on the battery terminal.

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    Very Active Member oldguyinTX's Avatar
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    You can get a power outlet plug (sold separately) for the battery tender (mine is a Beltran Battery Tender Plus) & plug it directly into the power outlet in the rear cargo carrier. You have to make the power outlet "hot" by moving the 10 amp fuse in the left hand fuse box from the #6 to the #7 position. Have used this system the past two winters while the Spyder was in winter storage & it has worked very well. Best of all, it is super easy to use.
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    I use the power outlet in the trunk. Very convenient.

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    Very Active Member PaladinLV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldguyinCT View Post
    You can get a power outlet plug (sold separately) for the battery tender (mine is a Beltran Battery Tender Plus) & plug it directly into the power outlet in the rear cargo carrier. You have to make the power outlet "hot" by moving the 10 amp fuse in the left hand fuse box from the #6 to the #7 position. Have used this system the past two winters while the Spyder was in winter storage & it has worked very well. Best of all, it is super easy to use.
    The rear power outlet on my 2014 is 5 amp.



    Would strongly suggest wiring directly to the battery.

    AJ
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    2014 RT-S
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    2014 RT/S , Black

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    Quote Originally Posted by maliamd View Post
    For the first time, I am hooking up my 2014 RT-S to a battery tender. Where is the best place on the chassis to connect the negative battery tender clip?
    I have used battery tenders for 20+ years. I always connect them direct to the battery. Since some have issues with loose battery connections....it is also a good time to put lock washers on those terminal connections !
    Craig From Albany Oregon

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    Active Member Sccar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WEB-WVR View Post
    I have used battery tenders for 20+ years. I always connect them direct to the battery. Since some have issues with loose battery connections....it is also a good time to put lock washers on those terminal connections !
    What kind of lock washers do you use?
    2015 F3S SE6
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    Active Member WEB-WVR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sccar View Post
    What kind of lock washers do you use?

    Just the regular "split" lock washer....I get them in stainless steel to avoid rust/corosion. Any hardware store.
    Craig From Albany Oregon

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    Default Have to agree..!!

    for the best connection go direct to the battery...
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

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    i have used Battery tenders on 5 bikes and always right to the negative terminal on the battery. But forget the clips. Put on the SAE quick disconnect. I have an RS and it feeds through the hole under the seat where the positive jump start thingy is at. Then you just lift the seat and plug it in. I have always used the quick connect on all my bikes..

    http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender...+quick+connect

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    The "Moving of the fuse", is how I tell myself that the riding Season is shot.
    ...Make the outlet in the top trunk "hot" all of the time, and plug in the Tender!
    I use the top trunk outlet, rather than connect to the battery directly, because I don't want any chance of damage happening to the gasket around the frunk... The power cord would be rubbing against it!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    SpyderLovers Sponsor Motorcycledave's Avatar
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    connect the red to the pos terminal of the battery
    and the black neg/ground to the negative terminal.





    QUOTE=maliamd;1048099]For the first time, I am hooking up my 2014 RT-S to a battery tender. Where is the best place on the chassis to connect the negative battery tender clip?[/QUOTE]

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    The "Moving of the fuse", is how I tell myself that the riding Season is shot.
    ...Make the outlet in the top trunk "hot" all of the time, and plug in the Tender!
    I use the top trunk outlet, rather than connect to the battery directly, because I don't want any chance of damage happening to the gasket around the frunk... The power cord would be rubbing against it!
    Another plus to using the quick connect instead under the seat instead of the outlet
    Plus the riding season here is 365 and with the quick connect you just unplug it when your ready to go out and dont have to switch fuse. I keep mine on a tender all the time even if i know im going to ride the next day. Same with my Yamaha

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    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    The "Moving of the fuse", is how I tell myself that the riding Season is shot.
    ...Make the outlet in the top trunk "hot" all of the time, and plug in the Tender!
    I use the top trunk outlet, rather than connect to the battery directly, because I don't want any chance of damage happening to the gasket around the frunk... The power cord would be rubbing against it!
    ....don't latch the trunk. You can close it to keep dust out, but just don't latch. Gasket will be fine. Battery tender works much better connected to the battery! Joe
    Joe Meyer



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    Left to right- Adapter connected to battery. Adapter with battery cover in place. Adapter with frunk liner in place.
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaladinLV View Post
    The rear power outlet on my 2014 is 5 amp.



    Would strongly suggest wiring directly to the battery.

    AJ
    The biggest Battery Tender I use runs 1.25 A @ 12v. The waterproof one I use now is 800 mA. There is no risk to using the trunk circuit.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bruiser View Post


    Left to right- Adapter connected to battery. Adapter with battery cover in place. Adapter with frunk liner in place.

    Thanks so much Bruiser.

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    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    Default Frunk

    Bruiser, the rubber plug to the right of the battery hatch can be slit to have the battery tender wire pass thru. Leaves the hatch gasket alone, and allows a tighter fit. Joe
    Joe Meyer



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    Very Active Member PaladinLV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MisterP View Post
    The biggest Battery Tender I use runs 1.25 A @ 12v. The waterproof one I use now is 800 mA. There is no risk to using the trunk circuit.
    Was in reply to Post #3 that stated fused at "10 amp"

    AJ


    2014 RT-S
    Akrapovic Exhaust & Cat Bypass
    Bajaron Sway Bar w/links / Sena SM-10/Garmin 660
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    Decals by Purple Harley / Magic Strobe
    Kuryakyn Black Widow Pegs Rivco Highway Brackets
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    FOBO / Spyder Cuff / XM Radio w MC Antenna

    2014 RT/S , Black

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaladinLV View Post
    Was in reply to Post #3 that stated fused at "10 amp"

    AJ
    Ah, sorry. Didn't see the connection to that post.

  21. #21
    Active Member SpyderCruiser's Avatar
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    Hello,
    I just wanted to add one thing. Notice in the photo the positive terminal boot is not fully covering the terminal. That is how mine came from the dealer. If any tool or screw or anything falls down in that area it can make contact with that positive terminal and the frame and cause a short circuit or fire.

    On my Spyder I cut off the positive terminal ring from the battery tender harness. Slid the wire down from the top of the terminal boot. Installed a new ring connector and fastened it to the positive terminal. Then the positive terminal boot can be pushed back down over the terminal and completely cover it.

    I know this sounds like nit picking, but if something like above was to happen, BRP would most likely deny any claim due to a fire. Plus the boot helps keep the connection clean. BRP put that boot on there for a reason, safety.
    2015 RTL , Red

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