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  1. #51
    Pragmatic Member Pampurrs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xyzzy View Post
    F3-S

    That's cool that they put that on the F3. I wonder why they didn't put it on the RT

    Nevertheless, I would still rather do my maintenance based on miles rather than hours.

    Pam



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  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by robtdonna View Post
    My local Walmart takes used oil. I just pour it from pan into a plastic milk jug and drop it off. Easy Peasy !
    Autozone take oil free to

  3. #53
    Very Active Member Cruzr Joe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blade View Post
    My understanding after reading the Manual is that a oil change should be accomplished at 9300 miles but if the clock starts after 3000 mile check up than the oil change interval is 6300 miles ( 3000 + 6300) = 9300. Unless I misunderstood what I read.

    Blade


    You Misunderstood the manual.


    Cruzr Joe
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  4. #54
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe View Post
    You Misunderstood the manual. Cruzr Joe
    Respectfully, I agree with Joe. The subsequent changes are at increments of 9,300 miles after the first change.
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
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  5. #55
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    ... and the clock always starts at 0 miles...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  6. #56
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    You should change the Oil yearly or 9,300! Whichever comes First!

    2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.

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  7. #57
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    Yup!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  8. #58
    Very Active Member jaherbst's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge707 View Post
    You should change the Oil yearly or 9,300! Whichever comes First!
    That's what I will be doing.

    Jack
    All my life I wanted to be somebody, now I realize I should have been more specific.
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  9. #59
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    I had a dealer tell me that he thought 9300 miles was too long and he was suggesting every 7000 miles, he also stated that many were just doing a oil change at 5000 and the service at 10000

  10. #60
    Very Active Member AeroPilot's Avatar
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    Thumbs up I need to order some more filters and washer/O-ring kits from Ron...

    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    Have you compared the cost of having the dealership do a service every 9,300 miles to doing it yourself every 5,000? Not to mention getting it to the dealership and getting it back, etc. Not sure it wouldn't still be less expensive to do it yourself.
    Since the wife's 15RT has almost 28K and mine's at 8K (both past the initial change and checkup) we will be doing oil changes a little more often. Was going to change oil and filters at the 6,000 mile intervals, but I kind of like the idea of getting to a standard 5,000 interval just to keep track easier and to keep the oil vis properties fresh. Main advantage of doing it yourself (since I have the time) is not worrying about appointments at the dealer when you'd rather have fresh oil and be ready to ride!!
    2015 RT , OEM Black Gloss

  11. #61
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    Add the 9,300 miles to your last mileage a oil change...like you did.. mho I would not wait that long...seeing a lot of testing and oils start fading long before that...
    Ann has over 80,000 miles on her RT with the 9,300 change intervals.
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  12. #62
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    Default Time or mileage?

    Book on F3-S says get maintenance after 1 year old no matter what mileage. Is that really necessary? Don't want to mess up warranty. Local dealer (not the one I bought it from) says they go by miles.

  13. #63
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    "EVERY 15 000KM (9,300MI) OR 1 YEAR (WHICHEVER COMES FIRST)"

    Is actually what it says...
    (This is a direct copy and paste from the manual.)
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  14. #64
    Very Active Member Wildrice's Avatar
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    I would believe the frequency of oil change intervals recommended via the mfg who covers the warranty is accurate. Driving conditions, time between oil changes, several factors could modify the normal recommended mileage. Also the 1330 engine has a big oil reservoir capacity 6 quarts compared to any previous bikes I've owned. Oil has improved over the years--some feel more comfortable doing the oil change at a closer interval--that they may--but I doubt it's needed--I would think the mfg would recommend on the low end of acceptable since they hold the warranty but if you're doing the oil change yourself it isn't that expensive--BahaRon has a great deal on oil filters & synthetic AMSOIL 10-W 40 & replacement oil filter with seals-washers-etc.
    Darrell
    2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nightrider1 View Post
    I had a dealer tell me that he thought 9300 miles was too long and he was suggesting every 7000 miles, he also stated that many were just doing a oil change at 5000 and the service at 10000
    Your dealer is trying to sell you something...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  16. #66
    Active Member KID Ryker's Avatar
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    Default I like it

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Every 9,300 miles...

    ...OR ONE YEAR!!

    Whichever shows up first!!!
    I do the same

  17. #67
    Very Active Member Tango's Avatar
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    Once a year for us. Tom
    Baloo is my name. Spyders are my game. Well, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, yes, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, I mean a doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee-dee-doo. And, well, now. Ha ha! What have we here?



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  18. #68
    Very Active Member jaherbst's Avatar
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    Honestly folks, can this really be that hard to understand. This is certainly not a Rocket Science based concept. Read the Manual, take a coffee break, read the manual again. If it still does not make sense to you get the 12 year old neighbor boy to read it and tell you what is says. RFQ If you want to change it earlier do so. If not stick with what the manufacturer recommends. It will do not harm. Really. Most new car manufacturers have gone to these or greater oil change intervals because of the new synthetic oils and microfilters.


    Jack
    All my life I wanted to be somebody, now I realize I should have been more specific.
    2019 Specialized E-Bike COMO 2.0
    2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland
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  19. #69
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    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  20. #70
    Member Fossil Rider's Avatar
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    Its quite simple folks, Oil threads are a nightmare LOL. Its quite simple on when you do your oil changes. Everyone and I mean everyone has a manual with your unit, it is a guide to assist you that's all. It's is an easy solution!

    It's your ride so here are your options that covers everything think about!

    1. Change as per manual
    2. Change oil as many times as you want because no one cares except yourself. It's your ride so do whatever you want.
    3. Don't change oil as per the manual because no one cares except yourself. It's your ride so do whatever you want.
    4. Use whatever oil you want within spec because no one cares except yourself. It's your ride so do whatever you want.

    No matter what happens in the end you pay the cost and why! Because no-one cares LOL

    Its plain and simple
    "IT"S YOUR RIDE DO WHATEVER YOU WANT"
    Last edited by Fossil Rider; 07-03-2017 at 07:24 AM.
    Life is hard, and it's harder if you're stupid!

  21. #71
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default OIL CHANGE OPINION

    Quote Originally Posted by jaherbst View Post

    Honestly folks, can this really be that hard to understand. This is certainly not a Rocket Science based concept. Read the Manual, take a coffee break, read the manual again. If it still does not make sense to you get the 12 year old neighbor boy to read it and tell you what is says. RFQ If you want to change it earlier do so. If not stick with what the manufacturer recommends. It will do not harm. Really. Most new car manufacturers have gone to these or greater oil change intervals because of the new synthetic oils and microfilters.


    Jack
    Honestly Jack, if cars and trucks SHARED the engine oil with the transmission like the Spyders do .... their intervals would much, much shorter............ not just my opinion ....... Mike

  22. #72
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    But Mike: aren't some of the shearing issues that are caused by the transmissions; being handled by the additive package?
    (Just a thought! )
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  23. #73
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default ADDITIVE PACKAGE

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    But Mike: aren't some of the shearing issues that are caused by the transmissions; being handled by the additive package?
    (Just a thought! )
    Not according to the results posted by the people here who have sent out samples to various private testing labs ...... and people here who are LOT smarter than will tell you that transmissions will SHEAR oil a lot quicker than an engine will ..... shoot a PM to Ron ..... see what He says ...... Mike

  24. #74
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    I believe that (given the price of these machines) it's foolish to go even 5,000 miles between oil changes regardless of what oil you use. Even without oil degradation, consider contaminants etc. On that note, I'll be changing my oil at least once yearly regardless of mileage. (I have a very limited riding season due to summer work obligations.) The bigger question IMO (for my circumstances) is: Spring or fall? Fall means fresh oil "sitting" & ready for the spring. Spring means old & oil sits/condensation separates etc...... Will probably change oil in late fall since this machine is destined to be stored inside over winter. ~ Thoughts?
    Last edited by TRLBLZR1; 07-03-2017 at 11:41 PM.
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  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRLBLZR1 View Post
    I believe that (given the price of these machines) it's foolish to go even 5,000 miles between oil changes regardless of what oil you use. Even without oil degradation, consider contaminants etc. On that note, I'll be changing my oil at least once yearly regardless of mileage. (I have a very limited riding season due to summer work obligations.) The bigger question IMO (for my circumstances) is: Spring or fall? Fall means fresh oil "sitting" & ready for the spring. Spring means old & oil sits/condensation separates etc...... Will probably change oil in late fall since this machine is destined to be stored inside over winter. ~ Thoughts?
    Yes I agree with you TRLBLZR1. You do not want the old contaminated oil sitting in the engine & transmission for 5 or 6 months.
    Cheers!
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