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  1. #1
    Active Member cbredneck's Avatar
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    Default 1330 spark plugs update

    I Did the plug change at 27k plus. Color on the plugs was good and consistent on all three cylinders. There is noticeable rounding on the outer electrode. It does not have the crisp edges of a new plug. It would seem that the recommended change at 28k is probably right on. Most of our travel has been two up pulling a loaded 622 trailer. Hope the photo is clear enough.
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  2. #2
    Active Member kbwitt's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks for info.
    Did you change them your self. If so how long did it take you?
    Kenn

  3. #3
    Active Member cbredneck's Avatar
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    Default 1330 spark plugs update

    Quote Originally Posted by kbwitt View Post
    Thanks for info.
    Did you change them your self. If so how long did it take you?
    Kenn
    Hard to be definitive about the time. We just completed a 11k trip to Canada and the west coast. Did the full service as well as a full detail inside and out side the bike. Took two days mostly cleaning. Transmission filter done at the same time(no BUDS issues with filter change)

  4. #4
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Good to know.....

    thanks for the info. I remember the Old Champion plugs you could take apart for cleaning and reshaping....get those crisp edges back... that was way back when...sounds like a great trip cause thats a lot of miles.....
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  5. #5
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    How did you go about detailing under the Tupperware? I'm particularly concerned about getting electrics wet and causing problems. Thanks.
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
    otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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    Cognac 2014 RT-S

  6. #6
    Active Member cbredneck's Avatar
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    .
    Quote Originally Posted by JayBros View Post
    How did you go about detailing under the Tupperware? I'm particularly concerned about getting electrics wet and causing problems. Thanks.
    Just used soapy water and an assortment of brushes. The electrical connectors are first class I had no worry about them. They get pretty wet when traveling in the rain.

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Jim&Teresa's Avatar
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    Default How hard to get at plugs?

    Quote Originally Posted by cbredneck View Post
    Hard to be definitive about the time. We just completed a 11k trip to Canada and the west coast. Did the full service as well as a full detail inside and out side the bike. Took two days mostly cleaning. Transmission filter done at the same time(no BUDS issues with filter change)
    Thanks for the update. I have 26,000+ miles on my 2014 RT. I've changed the oil/filter and transmission filter (no Buds issues) at just under 26,000 miles. I probably need to get at those plugs to do a change as well. Otherwise, I will ride a few more days and then detail it and prep it for winter.

    Any insight you have on the spark plug change and how to get to them, ease of getting to them, specific removal of anything in the way, etc. would be appreciate...never really took a good look at that area when I've had the Tupperware off.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by Jim&Teresa; 10-30-2015 at 05:05 PM.
    Happy and safe rydin'
    2014 Spyder RT Limited - January 2014, Cognac/Black Seat, #958, born on 1-8-14
    2014 RT Limited , Cognac

  8. #8
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    Default

    Thanks for letting us know that the plugs looked pretty good, but were just about ready to be replaced!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  9. #9
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbredneck View Post
    Hard to be definitive about the time. We just completed a 11k trip to Canada and the west coast. Did the full service as well as a full detail inside and out side the bike. Took two days mostly cleaning. Transmission filter done at the same time(no BUDS issues with filter change)
    Awesome. I was hoping that doing the trans filter wouldn't require the Buds when replaced. Another unnecessary expense. Plugs look good. Light, chocolate brown is a good burn/air/fuel ratio. Did you replace the wires also?

  10. #10
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    Default plug wires

    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys View Post
    Awesome. I was hoping that doing the trans filter wouldn't require the Buds when replaced. Another unnecessary expense. Plugs look good. Light, chocolate brown is a good burn/air/fuel ratio. Did you replace the wires also?

    1330 Don't have plug wires...

  11. #11
    Active Member cbredneck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim&Teresa View Post
    Thanks for the update. I have 26,000+ miles on my 2014 RT. I've changed the oil/filter and transmission filter (no Buds issues) at just under 26,000 miles. I probably need to get at those plugs to do a change as well. Otherwise, I will ride a few more days and then detail it and prep it for winter.

    Any insight you have on the spark plug change and how to get to them, ease of getting to them, specific removal of anything in the way, etc. would be appreciate...never really took a good look at that area when I've had the Tupperware off.

    Thanks!
    Biggest issue is removing the air intake chambers. It is very close fitting, but they will slide out with a little effort. I slipped a thin sheet of hard plastic between the foam sound deadening material and the top of the air box. this removed a lot of the friction ( in and out ). A 3" extension was the right size for my socket wrench to clear everything for plug removal. Rotating the coils as they are removed helped to loosen the rubber seals. They are a snug fit. Don't skip the heat transfer past when reinstalling the plugs. Be sure and keep the paste away from the electrodes, leave the first two threads clean.
    [SIGPIC][img]https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/maps/map.prov.png?states=[img]https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/maps/map.prov.png?states=BC.ABhttps://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/maps/map.prov.png?states

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbredneck View Post
    Biggest issue is removing the air intake chambers. It is very close fitting, but they will slide out with a little effort. I slipped a thin sheet of hard plastic between the foam sound deadening material and the top of the air box. this removed a lot of the friction ( in and out ). A 3" extension was the right size for my socket wrench to clear everything for plug removal. Rotating the coils as they are removed helped to loosen the rubber seals. They are a snug fit. Don't skip the heat transfer past when reinstalling the plugs. Be sure and keep the paste away from the electrodes, leave the first two threads clean.
    So they are COP (coil on plug) then. I was thinking that someone made a aftermarket airbox. Anybody know if they make one for the 1330? Might be a good time to replace it.

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