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Thread: Gauges (Newbie)

  1. #1
    Active Member PatriotRider's Avatar
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    Default Gauges (Newbie)

    after searching and reading:

    pulled the dash as others have said and removed fuel level and coolant temp gauges. Will use the lcd screen readout for now on.

    Purchased ebay 2" voltmeter as suggested to go on the right side facing dash.

    Anyone found a nice similar combo clock/ambient temp gauge that would be nice for the left side?

    I read the separate red wire with spade connector is switched power (positive/hot) and is useful. What might I use for ground for wiring up replacement gauges?

    TIA
    let's ride safe & be careful out there,
    Mike in Nawlins'
    2014 Black SE6 Limited "Charlotte"
    New Orleans Ride Captain
    Patriot Guard Riders

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    Very Active Member Bensonoid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PatriotRider View Post
    after searching and reading:

    pulled the dash as others have said and removed fuel level and coolant temp gauges. Will use the lcd screen readout for now on.

    Purchased ebay 2" voltmeter as suggested to go on the right side facing dash.

    Anyone found a nice similar combo clock/ambient temp gauge that would be nice for the left side?

    I read the separate red wire with spade connector is switched power (positive/hot) and is useful. What might I use for ground for wiring up replacement gauges?

    TIA
    You might want to consider a power supply on that side. When I did mine there was the spade connector that was power and a bullet connector that was the ground.
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    2015 RTS Special Series
    Russell Day Long seat
    F4 Customs windshield
    Sena 20s

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    While I admit that the fuel gauges on the 2010 RTs weren't the most accurate ones I've ever seen...

    The one on my 2014 IS!.
    (Sorry; I just had to brag a little bit... I feel better now... )
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    Very Active Member Bensonoid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    While I admit that the fuel gauges on the 2010 RTs weren't the most accurate ones I've ever seen...

    The one on my 2014 IS!.
    (Sorry; I just had to brag a little bit... I feel better now... )
    Is the clock any better? Or am I expecting too much all at once?
    2015 RTS Special Series
    Russell Day Long seat
    F4 Customs windshield
    Sena 20s

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    Pragmatic Member Pampurrs's Avatar
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    I also disabled my analog gauges a couple of days ago. Now I have two dead gauges sitting there doing nothing. I would love to have a volt meter like the OP asked about. If anyone can post wiring instructions that would be much appreciated.

    I was going to post this question anyway, but since PatriotRider posted it, I'll just politely hijack it

    Pam



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    Active Member rhinozxq's Avatar
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    Default Answer and question also

    The answer to the power for the volt meter is to connect your positive wire from the volt meter to the red spade wire that was connected to your analog gauge and your negative wire from the volt meter to the center pole of the 3 hole connector that was on the back of your analog gauge.

    You can power a clock the same way except that a clock also needs an always on power to accurately keep time. My question is what is close to these gauges that I can use for and always on power source for my new led clock?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bensonoid View Post
    Is the clock any better? Or am I expecting too much all at once?
    The clock still gains about three minutes each Month...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    Pragmatic Member Pampurrs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PatriotRider View Post
    after searching and reading:

    pulled the dash as others have said and removed fuel level and coolant temp gauges. Will use the lcd screen readout for now on.

    Purchased ebay 2" voltmeter as suggested to go on the right side facing dash.

    Anyone found a nice similar combo clock/ambient temp gauge that would be nice for the left side?

    I read the separate red wire with spade connector is switched power (positive/hot) and is useful. What might I use for ground for wiring up replacement gauges?

    TIA
    What specific voltmeter did you buy that fits into the opening on the dash? Thanks, I will search for it.

    Pam



    • 2015 RT-S Special Series / Red & Black
    • Baja Ron Sway Bar
    • Utopia Backrest
    • F4 Customs tall and wide vented windshield
    • Stebel Super Loud Air Horn
    • Baker Built Air Wings
    • LaMonster Highway Pegs
    • SpyderPops Exhaust Block Off Plate
    • SpyderPops KOTT Grill
    • SpyderPops Belt Guard
    • Cat Bypass
    • Laser Alignment by Squared Away
    • TricLED Fender Lights
    • General Altimax RT43 rear tire
    • Dual flag holder
    • Mud Flap
    • A$$hole seeking missile system




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    Very Active Member Cruzr Joe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pampurrs View Post
    What specific voltmeter did you buy that fits into the opening on the dash? Thanks, I will search for it.

    Pam

    The openings on the dash (after you remove the gauges) need a 52MM Voltmeter or other type of device.


    Cruzr Joe
    2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer

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    Pragmatic Member Pampurrs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe View Post
    The openings on the dash (after you remove the gauges) need a 52MM Voltmeter or other type of device.


    Cruzr Joe
    Thanks Joe

    Pam



    • 2015 RT-S Special Series / Red & Black
    • Baja Ron Sway Bar
    • Utopia Backrest
    • F4 Customs tall and wide vented windshield
    • Stebel Super Loud Air Horn
    • Baker Built Air Wings
    • LaMonster Highway Pegs
    • SpyderPops Exhaust Block Off Plate
    • SpyderPops KOTT Grill
    • SpyderPops Belt Guard
    • Cat Bypass
    • Laser Alignment by Squared Away
    • TricLED Fender Lights
    • General Altimax RT43 rear tire
    • Dual flag holder
    • Mud Flap
    • A$$hole seeking missile system




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    I'm with Bob, the analog gauges on the 14 are really accurate so no need to disable them.
    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
    2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
    2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
    2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
    2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
    2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
    2010 RT- 622

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    Very Active Member Cruzr Joe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01 View Post
    I'm with Bob, the analog gauges on the 14 are really accurate so no need to disable them.

    Except to make your dash look cooler.


    Cruzr Joe
    2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer

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    Pragmatic Member Pampurrs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01 View Post
    I'm with Bob, the analog gauges on the 14 are really accurate so no need to disable them.
    I disabled mine simply because I prefer the digital gauges. Plus, now I can install a volt meter which I've had on previous bikes and really miss.

    Pam



    • 2015 RT-S Special Series / Red & Black
    • Baja Ron Sway Bar
    • Utopia Backrest
    • F4 Customs tall and wide vented windshield
    • Stebel Super Loud Air Horn
    • Baker Built Air Wings
    • LaMonster Highway Pegs
    • SpyderPops Exhaust Block Off Plate
    • SpyderPops KOTT Grill
    • SpyderPops Belt Guard
    • Cat Bypass
    • Laser Alignment by Squared Away
    • TricLED Fender Lights
    • General Altimax RT43 rear tire
    • Dual flag holder
    • Mud Flap
    • A$$hole seeking missile system




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    I disabled mine on my '15 RTS because I wanted to use the space for power. One dual USB, and one "cigarette lighter" socket.

    -Fratz

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    Very Active Member Cruzr Joe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fratzba View Post
    I disabled mine on my '15 RTS because I wanted to use the space for power. One dual USB, and one "cigarette lighter" socket.

    -Fratz

    I hope that you put the Cigarette Lighter on its own wiring and fuse, the wiring that is there can handle the USB, but not a 12 Volt socket.


    Cruzr joe
    2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer

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    Active Member PatriotRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pampurrs View Post
    What specific voltmeter did you buy that fits into the opening on the dash? Thanks, I will search for it.

    Pam
    ebay search '2" digital voltmeter gauge'

    I went with a XTune at $49
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Xtune-Digita...111227&vxp=mtr


    the JDM and "no names" ($20ish) had complaints on "bleed through" light coming through, so I went with the recommended next level up unit with a next level up price
    many many went with the JDM cause of price with no complaint

    anything measuring 2" or 52mm will work

    I'm putting a clock in the left side hole
    blue digits $39
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/291553900915...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
    yes, will have to have available switched & unswitched power


    I'll post a followup when installed & some experience riding
    let's ride safe & be careful out there,
    Mike in Nawlins'
    2014 Black SE6 Limited "Charlotte"
    New Orleans Ride Captain
    Patriot Guard Riders

  17. #17
    Active Member PatriotRider's Avatar
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    final decision on the clock is this one with blue digits and yellow bar graph...matches the voltmeter look I already purchased

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/201008639085...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
    let's ride safe & be careful out there,
    Mike in Nawlins'
    2014 Black SE6 Limited "Charlotte"
    New Orleans Ride Captain
    Patriot Guard Riders

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    Default Guages

    Quote Originally Posted by PatriotRider View Post
    after searching and reading:

    pulled the dash as others have said and removed fuel level and coolant temp gauges. Will use the lcd screen readout for now on.

    Purchased ebay 2" voltmeter as suggested to go on the right side facing dash.

    Anyone found a nice similar combo clock/ambient temp gauge that would be nice for the left side?

    I read the separate red wire with spade connector is switched power (positive/hot) and is useful. What might I use for ground for wiring up replacement gauges?

    TIA
    Are you selling those gauges ? if so email me. manxman80@hotmail.com

  19. #19
    Active Member PatriotRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by manxman View Post
    Are you selling those gauges ? if so email me. manxman80@hotmail.com
    sorry, no
    someone posted a question for more specific info on what I'm doing
    I purchased these gauges new for my own use on current gauge replacement project

    best to you
    let's ride safe & be careful out there,
    Mike in Nawlins'
    2014 Black SE6 Limited "Charlotte"
    New Orleans Ride Captain
    Patriot Guard Riders

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    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pampurrs View Post
    I disabled mine simply because I prefer the digital gauges. Plus, now I can install a volt meter which I've had on previous bikes and really miss.

    Pam
    Pam,
    I have the one below for the voltmeter. I used posi-taps to get the power from the wires coming off the plug. This way if I ever want to change it back I can throw the stock gauges back in and not having to cut any wires.

    http://m.ebay.com/itm/271792017959?r...41&_mwBanner=1

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
    2007 M109R LE - To many MODS to list. Its cheaper that way!!!

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    Pragmatic Member Pampurrs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M109Dreamer View Post
    Pam,
    I have the one below for the voltmeter. I used posi-taps to get the power from the wires coming off the plug. This way if I ever want to change it back I can throw the stock gauges back in and not having to cut any wires.

    http://m.ebay.com/itm/271792017959?r...41&_mwBanner=1

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
    What gauge wire is that so I know which posi-taps to order?

    Thanks

    Pam



    • 2015 RT-S Special Series / Red & Black
    • Baja Ron Sway Bar
    • Utopia Backrest
    • F4 Customs tall and wide vented windshield
    • Stebel Super Loud Air Horn
    • Baker Built Air Wings
    • LaMonster Highway Pegs
    • SpyderPops Exhaust Block Off Plate
    • SpyderPops KOTT Grill
    • SpyderPops Belt Guard
    • Cat Bypass
    • Laser Alignment by Squared Away
    • TricLED Fender Lights
    • General Altimax RT43 rear tire
    • Dual flag holder
    • Mud Flap
    • A$$hole seeking missile system




  22. #22
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pampurrs View Post
    What gauge wire is that so I know which posi-taps to order?

    Thanks

    Pam
    20-22 ga. The ones with the grey end piece. They are a little snug getting on but I like then smaller versus going up to the larger size because it gives the wire less chance to roll inside the connector and makes sure that the splice/point of the connector (middle) section hits the wire in the middle.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
    2007 M109R LE - To many MODS to list. Its cheaper that way!!!

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    Pragmatic Member Pampurrs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M109Dreamer View Post
    20-22 ga. The ones with the grey end piece. They are a little snug getting on but I like then smaller versus going up to the larger size because it gives the wire less chance to roll inside the connector and makes sure that the splice/point of the connector (middle) section hits the wire in the middle.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
    Thanks

    I hope I get to meet you before you move to Texas!

    Pam



    • 2015 RT-S Special Series / Red & Black
    • Baja Ron Sway Bar
    • Utopia Backrest
    • F4 Customs tall and wide vented windshield
    • Stebel Super Loud Air Horn
    • Baker Built Air Wings
    • LaMonster Highway Pegs
    • SpyderPops Exhaust Block Off Plate
    • SpyderPops KOTT Grill
    • SpyderPops Belt Guard
    • Cat Bypass
    • Laser Alignment by Squared Away
    • TricLED Fender Lights
    • General Altimax RT43 rear tire
    • Dual flag holder
    • Mud Flap
    • A$$hole seeking missile system




  24. #24
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pampurrs View Post
    Thanks

    I hope I get to meet you before you move to Texas!

    Pam
    Me too. Everything is moving fast. Packer are coming next week.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
    2007 M109R LE - To many MODS to list. Its cheaper that way!!!

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    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    The clock still gains about three minutes each Month...
    Agree, the oem digital clock is cool but a joke, it can not keep accurate time.

    Leave it to BRP to screw up a digital clock. I can ever recall a digital clock that was not accurate.

    PK

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