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Anyone changed their 1330 trans filter yet?
Have any of you oil boys changed the transmission oil filter on your 1330 ace motor yet?? How big a hasel is it to change?
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Very Active Member
Doubt it....
That filter does not need changing for 28,000 miles. It resides inside the engine and requires removing engine covers to get at. Don't know what all is involved but the physical pulling of the cover and replacing is not that hard but then there may be more to it cause it is not a cheap service...
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Originally Posted by Chupaca
That filter does not need changing for 28,000 miles. It resides inside the engine and requires removing engine covers to get at. Don't know what all is involved but the physical pulling of the cover and replacing is not that hard but then there may be more to it cause it is not a cheap service...
I got the mileage on , I need to talk to someone who has done this themselves. I know the filter is about $105.
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It is not a difficult service. Take panels off and there it is, remove bolts and replace filter. Put pan uinder it to catch oil.......
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Originally Posted by bluep
Have any of you oil boys changed the transmission oil filter on your 1330 ace motor yet?? How big a hasel is it to change?
You might send a message to spyderann
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Originally Posted by happyspyder2039
You might send a message to spyderann
I've got a manual transmission so no transmission filter for me.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Active Member
Dealer required
Changing the transmission filter requires the BUDS Computer to be connected after the oil/filter change to cycle the various solenoids in the HCM (Hydraulic Control Module). Doing the procedure ensures that all the air that got into the system during the filter change is removed. Air in the hydraulic system is not good. So unless you have access to a BUDS computer you will need the dealer do the job.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Doc - Riverside
Changing the transmission filter requires the BUDS Computer to be connected after the oil/filter change to cycle the various solenoids in the HCM (Hydraulic Control Module). Doing the procedure ensures that all the air that got into the system during the filter change is removed. Air in the hydraulic system is not good. So unless you have access to a BUDS computer you will need the dealer do the job.
No BUDS done, no Air, and no problems when I did mine and that was 10,000 miles ago. In fact the person who sold me the filter is also the head Spyder tech at my dealer and if BUDS was required he would have told me.
2021 Sea To Sky, 2020 RTL
Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
but our benefits don't?
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Originally Posted by PW2013STL
No BUDS done, no Air, and no problems when I did mine and that was 10,000 miles ago. In fact the person who sold me the filter is also the head Spyder tech at my dealer and if BUDS was required he would have told me.
Thanks PW20, Just what I needed from somebody that's done it. Thanks again , BLuep
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Hello PW,
I'm about to replace my transmission filter. When you do a 1330 transmission filter replacement, is the gasket alone adequate to seal the cover plate against leaks? Or do I need to get some gasket sealer before I replace mine?
Regards, PatrickH
2014 Spyder RT LTD silver, Corbin saddle w/backrest & gas filler door, 4" stubby antenna, dual USB charging receptacle on dash, handlebar "cuff" attachment point for RAM phone mount, Diamond-R trunk-top level luggage rack, magic mirrors, Bestem saddle bag liners & Hopnel trunk bag (2-piece set), SpyderPops bumpskid (not lighted), highway foot rests; rear tire General Altimax 215/60/15, Baker Wind Wings, LED Headlights, RT Series 2010-2019 Rear Trunk Holder
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Very Active Member
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BUDS
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Very Active Member
I changed mine just before our NTA trip at 21,000 miles. Early I know, but did not want to have to have that done during the trip.
It's more involved than just the standard oil and filter change, but that's where you start by draining all the oil out first as you will still get a fair amount out of that cover.
It is located at the bottom far right of the motor on the right side. I removed the right side black plastic support piece that holds the snap on vented Tupperware and the headlight adjuster as well as the right side short skid plate below it. This gave me direct access to the 10mm (head) bolts on the cover as well as a strait shot for the oil to drain.
The cover and filter are one piece so remove the bolts and pull the old cover off and replace with the new and bolt it on. Fill with oil (make sure your drain plugs and back in) run the bike and check for any leaks then button it all back up. Have a beer and congratulate yourself on saving a lot of $ that the dealer would have charged you.
If you have the time to wait you can find the filter on line for less than the $105 I paid.
2021 Sea To Sky, 2020 RTL
Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
but our benefits don't?
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Originally Posted by PW2013STL
I changed mine just before our NTA trip at 21,000 miles. Early I know, but did not want to have to have that done during the trip.
It's more involved than just the standard oil and filter change, but that's where you start by draining all the oil out first as you will still get a fair amount out of that cover.
It is located at the bottom far right of the motor on the right side. I removed the right side black plastic support piece that holds the snap on vented Tupperware and the headlight adjuster as well as the right side short skid plate below it. This gave me direct access to the 10mm (head) bolts on the cover as well as a strait shot for the oil to drain.
The cover and filter are one piece so remove the bolts and pull the old cover off and replace with the new and bolt it on. Fill with oil (make sure your drain plugs and back in) run the bike and check for any leaks then button it all back up. Have a beer and congratulate yourself on saving a lot of $ that the dealer would have charged you.
If you have the time to wait you can find the filter on line for less than the $105 I paid.
Does anyone have pictures or link to a YouTube for this?
2014 RTL Platinum
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Very Active Member
Sorry that would not be me. Hope you don't need buds for it... [emoji845]
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Originally Posted by Chupaca
Sorry that would not be me. Hope you don't need buds for it... [emoji845]
The shop manual mentions nothing about needing BUDS afterwards, and the job looks to be fairly straightforward. I'll do mine when it's due.
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Originally Posted by TerryTheSpyderRyder
The shop manual mentions nothing about needing BUDS afterwards, and the job looks to be fairly straightforward. I'll do mine when it's due.
I've had a number of customers do their own HCM filter change without incident. I think it wise to start the engine and let it idle for a bit to be sure all the oil passages are filled and any air is vented from the system. Just like any oil change on any vehicle. More so on a dry sump system like the Spyder uses.
This gives you time to check for any leaks, etc. Do this, of course, before you button everything up and can no longer see if you have any leaks. But the way. Leaks are extremely rare and only occur when you've done something wrong. Which is also very rare.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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BUDS is actually a lot more limited and generic looking than you'd ever believe. However, BRP Diagnostics is a great setup for the OEM software, and very reasonable. Just don't expect unicorns and glitter, you'll be disappointed. Up until about a year or so ago, we had been using it in the seadoo world when dealing with machines still using stock ecus. I always felt like I was working in windows 95. The biggest complaint we had was it seemed like we were noticeably slower to get the updates vs. The local dealer. Don't know if that's gotten better?? Never played with the spyder version though.
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Originally Posted by DrewNJ
BUDS is actually a lot more limited and generic looking than you'd ever believe. However, BRP Diagnostics is a great setup for the OEM software, and very reasonable. Just don't expect unicorns and glitter, you'll be disappointed. Up until about a year or so ago, we had been using it in the seadoo world when dealing with machines still using stock ecus. I always felt like I was working in windows 95. The biggest complaint we had was it seemed like we were noticeably slower to get the updates vs. The local dealer. Don't know if that's gotten better?? Never played with the spyder version though.
I have tried to contact BRP Diagnostics and got no reply.. May have to contact the local Stealer and see what they tell me on BUDS
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What is the estimated price to have this done at a dealer?3-400?
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Originally Posted by marty1096
What is the estimated price to have this done at a dealer?3-400?
I would guess that the total price would include an oil change with filters. However, an oil change is easily done by the owner. And the transmission oil filter replacement is probably the easiest part of the process on the 1330 motor.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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Very Active Member
I have replaced mine it is so easy I'm going to replace my second one this month no buds needed
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Curious as to the hydraulics work on this....is it not the same oil source?
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Originally Posted by Geep
Curious as to the hydraulics work on this....is it not the same oil source?
There seems to be a fair number of misconceptions about the SE6 HCM filter.
Changing the HCM filter is tricky or hard to do, (Not)
You need BUDS to change the HCM filter, (Not)
The HCM filter, filters the transmission oil, (Not). I will admit some culpability on this one as I reference this as a 'Transmission' filter (which it is not) because many relate to this terminology but have no idea what an HCM is.
The transmission runs in it's own, separate oil, (Not)
This filter treats only that oil which is then sent to the hydraulic control mechanism (or module, I can't remember which). The HCM takes the place of your foot on the shift lever and your hand squeezing the clutch lever. That's all it does. Shift up, shift down. The transmission gears run in the same oil as the engine and that oil is filtered by the engine oil filter.
Last edited by BajaRon; 06-20-2019 at 06:13 PM.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
Only SLOW people have to leave on time...
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