Dealer Hitch Install

[SailnDive]

My dealer quoted me $597 parts and labor to install a BRP hitch and wiring kit. That seems like a lot but I would probably spend two days (or more) designing , building and installing one that might not be as good as the factory hitch. I think I'll go dealer install on this one.

BTW, the dealer said that he had not had a DESS problem come in to his shop. I really trust this dealer! Nice guy and knowledgeable. All Seasons Power sports, Mineral Wells, WV.

[Bob Denman]

If that $597 includes the price of the hitch:
If it doesn't:

[jcasey]

If that $597 includes the price of the hitch:
If it doesn't:

Says parts and labor!

[Bob Denman]

I figure that it pays to be sure...

[SailnDive]

If that $597 includes the price of the hitch:
If it doesn't:

Yep, hitch, wiring and labor. He recons 1 1/2 hours labor. I'll get it put on when I take the bike for the 3000 mile service about a month from now.
He is charging me $458 for the hitch kit.

[Woodsrider]

Assumin I keep the trike, going to have the hitch done at rear time replacement time. Save a little on the labor.

[Bob Denman]

Yep, hitch, wiring and labor. He recons 1 1/2 hours labor. I'll get it put on when I take the bike for the 3000 mile service about a month from now.
He is charging me $458 for the hitch kit.

[Chupaca]

about the good dealer and that your area is DESS problem free. You can find oem hitches at better prices and then have them install it though you would have no problem doing it yourself...

[SailnDive]

about the good dealer and that your area is DESS problem free. You can find oem hitches at better prices and then have them install it though you would have no problem doing it yourself...

OK, Found it on Amazon and Ebay. $219 for hitch and $85 for control module. Seems a lot for the wiring. I don 't mind doing the install. I'll try looking for a better price.

[Vt. Rider]

That's a good price for EBay.....Probably Big Boy Parts for the hitch and ShowChrome for the wiring harness. It's a fairly easy job to do....I think that removing the Tupperware is the toughest part. The wiring is plain and simple. I ended the harness in a flat 5 connector. My trailer already had a square 6 wire connector which I removed & spliced the brown and blue (running lights on my trailer) together and changed over to the female end of the flat 5. You can do the whole thing in about 3 hours.

[dmfahie]

I was just quoted 465. For hitch and wiring.... $185 for installation

[SpyderAnn01]

One thing to think about here is if your dealer installs the hitch and wiring you have better warranty coverage on it. Ive had a few issues with the wiring harness over the years and was covered simply because it was dealer installed.

[SailnDive]

And the plot thickens! After market price for the wiring/ module $85. Dealer claims 2 modules and wiring harness needed @ $291 PLUS the hitch hardware or $458 for the complete kit that includes hitch hardware, modules and wiring. If the $85 aftermarket wiring harness includes modules and wiring...that's how I'll go. I just don't want to end up with a non-functioning light system. Computers how I hate thee, let me count the ways.
BTW, I am a retired computer networking instructor that vowed to never learn another thing about or fix another computers until the day I die. This bike may make a liar out of me.

[SailnDive]

I was just quoted 465. For hitch and wiring.... $185 for installation

My Dealer quoted $597... so close to the same. He gave me a discounted price for parts.

[Spacetrucker]

You can do it your self . Really you can. Not hard.

[SailnDive]

You can do it your self . Really you can. Not hard.

I should have no problems doing the install...it's just being sure that I have the right parts and wiring harness. The dealer says that the OEM wiring has 2 electronic modules that "talk" to the bike. I just want to be sure that the aftermarket kit speaks the same language. I ordered the hitch hardware from Show Chrome Accessories Friday and I'll call them today to get the info on the wiring kit.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

The dealer says that the OEM wiring has 2 electronic modules that "talk" to the bike. I just want to be sure that the aftermarket kit speaks the same language.

I think that's FUD. There is a module in the harness but I'm sure it's sole function is to provide isolation between the trailer wiring and and the bike wiring. You really, really, want that, for two reasons. One, the additional lights on the trailer may add enough load to upset the balance for turn signal timing. Added lights on the bike have necessitated some SL members to reset the turn signal program for '14 & '15 models. '13 and earlier can't be reset.

The second, and overwhelming, reason you want an isolator is because the turn signal lights are wired directly into the cluster with no fuse between the cluster and the lights. If you connect the trailer wires directly you don't have any protection of the cluster in the event you have a short circuit. I can't say a short circuit will blow the cluster, but why chance it? It is one of those computers you hate! A cluster is about $700 or $800. This is one of those cases where an aftermarket part may void a warranty claim. But the isolator does not have to be a BRP isolator. Any good isolator will provide the protection you need. Some isolators will also convert the bike's 5 wire system to 4 wire for the trailer. I have a Goldwing GL1500 isolator in my harness and it works wonderfully well.

[skymed]

Just this morning I took the RT Ltd in for its 5000km check and asked for the price of a hitch installed. The dealer quoted $550.00 for the hitch and 1.5 hrs to install it, for a total of $775.00 Canadian, which Google tells me is $590 US Dollars.

[Marker]

Its not the hitch install that is time consuming but installing the wiring harness for the lights is a brute to install.

[jaherbst]

Just this morning I took the RT Ltd in for its 5000km check and asked for the price of a hitch installed. The dealer quoted $550.00 for the hitch and 1.5 hrs to install it, for a total of $775.00 Canadian, which Google tells me is $590 US Dollars.

That's a fair price.

Most after market (go cheap) guys are eventually on here with wiring and install problems. Do yourself a favor, buy the OEM product and have it installed at the dealer. If there were to be a problem the dealer will fix it and it is under warranty. After market things seldom work out to be what is expected and not worth the headaches. This forum is filled with hitch and wiring problems from not using BRP OEM. Search this site and you will find this to be true.

Didn't your Daddy tell you that you get what you pay for?

Jack

[Bob Denman]

After all; what is your peace of mind worth?

[campermac]

After all; what is your peace of mind worth?

There really is no reason to use the OEM harness. If the trailer lights are LED they will work fine. I have installed the show chrome side markers with turn signals and tapped the trailer lights off the same line. The brake lights for the trailer I used the same line as the one I tapped into for the show chrome 3rd brake light. I tested the circuits with an ohm meter and the load is minimal.

I used a 5 flat wiring harness I got from a trailer shop $6.50 and fused the lines and no issues

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

There really is no reason to use the OEM harness. If the trailer lights are LED they will work fine. I have installed the show chrome side markers with turn signals and tapped the trailer lights off the same line. The brake lights for the trailer I used the same line as the one I tapped into for the show chrome 3rd brake light. I tested the circuits with an ohm meter and the load is minimal.

I used a 5 flat wiring harness I got from a trailer shop $6.50 and fused the lines and no issues

You didn't use an isolator then? Granted, the trailer LEDs probably won't overload the bike system but that's not the main concern. If you have a short in the trailer tail or brake lights you'll blow the fuse that feeds the bike lights also. Then you have no brake and/or tail lights on bike or trailer. The turn signals are the big concern. Short those circuits and you might blow the cluster. I can't say you will, but I can't say you won't either. There is no fuse between the cluster and the turn signal lights. Blow the cluster and you've blown several hundred dollars.

[campermac]

You didn't use an isolator then? Granted, the trailer LEDs probably won't overload the bike system but that's not the main concern. If you have a short in the trailer tail or brake lights you'll blow the fuse that feeds the bike lights also. Then you have no brake and/or tail lights on bike or trailer. The turn signals are the big concern. Short those circuits and you might blow the cluster. I can't say you will, but I can't say you won't either. There is no fuse between the cluster and the turn signal lights. Blow the cluster and you've blown several hundred dollars.

I fused each wire on the harness from the trailer before it gets to the harness on the bike. That way if there is a short then the fuse will blow and not harm the bike. I am going to do a redo on it though and put a fuse block on the trailer so not to have the 4 individual fuses and only have one place to check

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I fused each wire on the harness from the trailer before it gets to the harness on the bike. That way if there is a short then the fuse will blow and not harm the bike. I am going to do a redo on it though and put a fuse block on the trailer so not to have the 4 individual fuses and only have one place to check

I would suggest you leave the four individual fuses even with the fuse block. The reason being a likely place for a short, I think, will be in the pigtail between the trailer plug and trailer body. Also, use fast blow, not slow blow on the turn signal wires, and minimum size that will carry the load. That quite possibly will be enough to protect the cluster. A slow blow might allow excess current long enough to damage the cluster.

The chances of having a trailer short and blowing the cluster will be pretty small, but if it should ever happen it'll be a real oh moment!

As for me, I'll stick with an isolator!