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Adjusting Front Shocks on 2012 RSS
The fox shocks on my 2012 uses the preload adjustment ring vs the preload cam on older shock or the RS. There is lots written about increasing the preload cam to 4 or 5 to increase handling etc. but I can't find any comments on a similar vein for for my shocks. The manual says there should be 16 7/8 " between the upper and lower shock bolts when the bike has the rider on it. I can have someone do that measurement for me easily enough but say I want the suspension stiffer. How much do I tighten to say go to equivalent of a 4 on the preload cam shocks? Also any idea how these are typically set from the factory? With riding gear I weigh around 230 lbs so I expect even setting it to the suggested setting will be an improvement?
also some suggest jacking the wheel to unload the shock prior to adjusting. Does the same hold true for the fox podium shocks I have? Manual is pitiful. Does the can am shop manual provide this kind of info?
Last edited by Gcclubs; 08-22-2015 at 01:23 AM.
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Very Active Member
Jack up the bike
To unload the spring. Crank up the rings until you like it. I have the old style, and keep them on five. Maybe some fox shock owners will chime in.
on mine the spring length difference between 1 and 5 is roughly an inch.
it was fun while it lasted.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by coz
To unload the spring. Crank up the rings until you like it. I have the old style, and keep them on five. Maybe some fox shock owners will chime in.
on mine the spring length difference between 1 and 5 is roughly an inch.
Best way I know is try increasing the pre load a little at a time (1 or 2 turns each side) on both shocks and ride till you get it where it feels right. The fox shocks are far better than the old shocks so I don't think you can compare one to the other as far as settings go.
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Originally Posted by Gcclubs
The fox shocks on my 2012 uses the preload adjustment ring vs the preload cam on older shock or the RS. There is lots written about increasing the preload cam to 4 or 5 to increase handling etc. but I can't find any comments on a similar vein for for my shocks. The manual says there should be 16 7/8 " between the upper and lower shock bolts when the bike has the rider on it. I can have someone do that measurement for me easily enough but say I want the suspension stiffer. How much do I tighten to say go to equivalent of a 4 on the preload cam shocks? Also any idea how these are typically set from the factory? With riding gear I weigh around 230 lbs so I expect even setting it to the suggested setting will be an improvement?
also some suggest jacking the wheel to unload the shock prior to adjusting. Does the same hold true for the fox podium shocks I have? Manual is pitiful. Does the can am shop manual provide this kind of info?
This is a manufacturer's suggested starting point. Not a hard and fast rule. As suggested, try cranking each shock adjuster up a few turns, making sure you put the same amount of turns in the same direction on each shock. You do not need to take the weight off the wheels to adjust your shocks. It was the original stock shocks that had the pot metal cam adjusters that were breaking.
But, it will be easier to turn the adjusting nuts if you take the weight off the wheels.
Experiment and have fun!
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
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Very Active Member
Working on it....
recently installed the fox shocks on my RS. They come preset in the middle. Here is what I am doing...I marked the top adjuster ring in the same place on both sides. Then loosen the bottom ring a bit and start turning them till the mark makes a full turn. You can make as many turns as you like but I am doing three at a time looking for the sweet spot.
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Chupaca
Originally Posted by Chupaca
recently installed the fox shocks on my RS. They come preset in the middle. Here is what I am doing...I marked the top adjuster ring in the same place on both sides. Then loosen the bottom ring a bit and start turning them till the mark makes a full turn. You can make as many turns as you like but I am doing three at a time looking for the sweet spot.
did you jack up the bike to do the adjustments or was it relatively easy to do with shock loaded?
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Very Active Member
No..actually where I'm at now I can still turn the ring by hand. As you reach more compression may need a spanner wrench or lift the front end...
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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