Found out late last week that Uncle Dudley's Postal Service hadn't lost my 2,000 mile sample of Mobil 1 4T Racing 10W-40. They just sent it via the far side of beyond before dropping it in Atlanta. Anyway, the report is attached and it looks pretty good. If you look at the report and verify the cSt 100C number of 12.5 against Bob is the Oil Guy viscosity chart, http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/viscosity-charts/, you'll see that the number equates to a very high 30 or very low 40. This is compared with my first and only analysis of XPS Semi-Synthetic 5W-40 that was done at 4,400 miles and had an equivalent mid-20 weight when I made the switch to Mobil 1. There is an error in the basic data section; I did change the filter but incorrectly marked the wrong box on the submission form. The only thing I find unusual in the report is there appears to be little if any viscosity shear and this does not square with the information Steve M of BRPcare provided in http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...0-Oil-Level-on that the oil shears down 20-30% in the first 1,000 - 1,500 miles. To what do I attribute this lack of shearing, I haven't the faintest idea and don't really care why it did not nosedive. The next analysis at 4,000 miles will be much more important because it will be closer to the mileage at which the XPS was analyzed. I will follow the results of the 4K analysis with a third one at 6K and based on that one will decide if I should do one at 8K or just go all the way to 9,300.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
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****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
Waiting now for lab report from ALS Atlanta on Mobil1 sample I sent in last week with approx 4500 miles on the oil. Should be in this week sometime.
I couldn't stand waiting to see how well it does and changed the filter along with Valvoline Syn cycle oil I had on hand. It comes down to what makes you comfortable in terms of oil usage and I've decided that two changes per filter will be my standard.
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Being relatively new to a Spyder. I've watched the many Oil Posts with some interest. My take on all of this is that the synthetic oil options are broken down into 3 categories:
1. "Botique" Oils (Spectro, Bel-Ray, Amsoil, Redline, etc.) cost ranges from $10.00-$20.00/qt
2. BRP XPS
3. "Big Box" Motorcycle Oils( Mobil1 4T, Castrol RS4T, Valvoline 4T, RotellaT-6, Royal Purple, Lucas, etc) cost ranges from $7.50-$10.00/qt
Most oil brands make petroleum/dino, blended, and "synthetic" brands throughout a range of viscosities. Without much spyder experience, my question is, if you change your oil and filter every 4-5,000 miles, does it really make any difference in what you use, as long as it's MA/MA2????? I could certainly understand how someone who rides >9,000 miles/year would want the "best" oil around. For me most of the oil comparison data/tests are not current. Call me nieve, but in my H-Ds and my GL1800s I used the dealer recommended full syn oil.
I and some other Spyder owners who are putting a lot of annual mileage on them (I'm looking at 10-12K/year, can ride year 'round and want to keep one roadster as long as I can still ride) were concerned about the 9,300 mile or once a year routine oil change level published by BRP for the 1330 engine. Yes, if one is not logging big miles once a year is advisable but the 9,300 is a long interval. The situation is compounded by the rapid viscosity shearing on the BRP XPS Blend semi-synthetic. Although Steve from BRPcare explained the flattening over time/mileage of the initial 20-30% shear some of us are curious to see how fully synthetic oils perform over time. I personally am delighted at how smooth the transmission shifts with Mobil 1 and am hoping that multiple analyses show that it can easily go the 9,300 interval with solid retention of viscosity.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
It would be interesting to see what viscosity the BRP blend starts at. I know it is assumed as 5w40. If I remember at the next change I will send new oil in. Unless someone has already done it.
6000 miles on BRP semi (cST Viscosity = 8.36)
6234 miles on Mobil 1 4T full synthetic (cST Viscosity =10.56)
5677 miles on BRP full synthetic (cST Viscosity =8.19)
8564 miles on BRP full synthetic (cST Viscosity =8.78)
I found it interesting that the BRP full synthetic at 5677 miles sheared more than at 8564 miles.
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Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people...... but our benefits don't?
I I personally am delighted at how smooth the transmission shifts with Mobil 1 and am hoping that multiple analyses show that it can easily go the 9,300 interval with solid retention of viscosity.
Jay, the $64 question is: what is the lowest viscosity you
would run for extended periods, say, 7,8,9K?
While BRP Steve gave us an excellent report, he didn't say anything about minimum viscosity. Perhaps, In BRP's view, a very low viscosity is not a concern. However, I'd like to see a definitive answer to this.
Personally, I can't stand it when it shears down to 20W.
How about it folks, what is your minimum?
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I personally am delighted at how smooth the transmission shifts with Mobil 1 and am hoping that multiple analyses show that it can easily go the 9,300 interval with solid retention of viscosity.
If testing shows that the M1 4T can go the 9300 miles I will switch over myself. I have run M1 4T in quite a few bikes and I like it as lot. I can get it locally for under $10 a quart on sale. I would much prefer doing 9300 miles intervals because I ride a lot. But, until the numbers come in, I will stick with the dino Rotella 15W40 every 3000 miles. I really wish I could talk to the Rotax engineer who specified the OCI. I would be super interested in their thought process.
If testing shows that the M1 4T can go the 9300 miles I will switch over myself. I have run M1 4T in quite a few bikes and I like it as lot. I can get it locally for under $10 a quart on sale. I would much prefer doing 9300 miles intervals because I ride a lot. But, until the numbers come in, I will stick with the dino Rotella 15W40 every 3000 miles. I really wish I could talk to the Rotax engineer who specified the OCI. I would be super interested in their thought process.
I beleave the M1 4T it will go 9300 miles without any issues as the report I posted shows that at over 6200 miles it only sheared down to the low 30's as compared to the BRP oil that sheared to the 20's
My next oil change I will be going back to the M1 as it has the best numbers by far.
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Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people...... but our benefits don't?
I beleave the M1 4T it will go 9300 miles without any issues as the report I posted shows that at over 6200 miles it only sheared down to the low 30's as compared to the BRP oil that sheared to the 20's
My next oil change I will be going back to the M1 as it has the best numbers by far.
Jay, the $64 question is: what is the lowest viscosity you
would run for extended periods, say, 7,8,9K?
While BRP Steve gave us an excellent report, he didn't say anything about minimum viscosity. Perhaps, In BRP's view, a very low viscosity is not a concern. However, I'd like to see a definitive answer to this.
Personally, I can't stand it when it shears down to 20W.
How about it folks, what is your minimum?
I'm with you on it getting into the 20s. I think if if it goes below 11.0 on the cSt100 it's out because that would put it below 30. New filter and new load.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
Mobil 1 4T Lab Report at 4559 Miles in 1330 Motor is High 30W
Got my report back today after putting 4559 miles on Mobil 1 motorcycle oil, with a total mileage on the RT of 19,127.
However, you need to know that I always run a quart of same brand 20-50 mixed with the 10-40 to beef up the viscosity. Those in a colder climate might not want to do this.
ALS Lab in Atlanta said all is normal, with a viscosity (cST 100c) of 12.0. Using BITOG viscosity chart this comes out
to a high 30W.
Without the qt of 20-50 it would probably have been in mid-low 30W. This corresponds closely to several reports I had done on my previous '11 RT using Amsoil.
It will be very interesting to see additional reports by others with 6K or more on the oil. Early evidence shows that Mobil 4T is a good oil for the 1330.
Potential users should note this oil is rated JASO MA, not MA2 as many other motorcycle specific oils are. I don't know if this makes a difference in the 998 motors or not.
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In what few Oil Comparisons I found. Amsoil is always #1. Mobil 1 4T is #2. What other MC oils were tested were farther down the list. I guess it has to do with the additive package????????? Anyway what is the price difference between Amsoil and Mobil 1 4T 10W-40?????????? In my area the Mobil 1 4T runs $9.00-$10.00/qt.
Got my report back today after putting 4559 miles on Mobil 1 motorcycle oil, with a total mileage on the RT of 19,127.
However, you need to know that I always run a quart of same brand 20-50 mixed with the 10-40 to beef up the viscosity. Those in a colder climate might not want to do this.
ALS Lab in Atlanta said all is normal, with a viscosity (cST 100c) of 12.0. Using BITOG viscosity chart this comes out
to a high 30W.
Without the qt of 20-50 it would probably have been in mid-low 30W. This corresponds closely to several reports I had done on my previous '11 RT using Amsoil.
It will be very interesting to see additional reports by others with 6K or more on the oil. Early evidence shows that Mobil 4T is a good oil for the 1330.
Potential users should note this oil is rated JASO MA, not MA2 as many other motorcycle specific oils are. I don't know if this makes a difference in the 998 motors or not.
As stated on my post above at 6234 on the M1 was at 10.56, or low 30's I ran 10-40 only.
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Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people...... but our benefits don't?
As stated on my post above at 6234 on the M1 was at 10.56, or low 30's I ran 10-40 only.
Had not forgot your good report. Just hope others will add to
what we are accumulating. I'm still a doubting Thomas as far as running any oil to 9300 and hope someone will do a lab test at the upper limits. I believe you 6K is tops so far.
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I've got about 2500 on my M1. I may go ahead and test at 5k. Since we are moving more weight than probably anyone else, we'll see how mine shears. I plan on a drain and fill with no filter change.
I've got about 2500 on my M1. I may go ahead and test at 5k. Since we are moving more weight than probably anyone else, we'll see how mine shears. I plan on a drain and fill with no filter change.
What is your thinking on changing oil and not changing the filter ? I haven't ever thought of that. I'm an old guy so I started changing my own oil in 1970 and I really haven't ever changed one without the other. I'm not questioning you, I'm just asking what your thinking is to bother to put in clean oil and not start it's life with a clean filter ?
What is your thinking on changing oil and not changing the filter ? I haven't ever thought of that. I'm an old guy so I started changing my own oil in 1970 and I really haven't ever changed one without the other. I'm not questioning you, I'm just asking what your thinking is to bother to put in clean oil and not start it's life with a clean filter ?
Since BRP has that 9300 mile recommended interval, my thinking is that the filter will easily last that long, even if the oil doesn't. I started doing that several oil changes back and have had no ill effects from the bike. Just a matter of personal preference, I guess. With the lift and the Spyder adaptors it's a breeze either way. What I may do is drain and fill at 5k, run the lab report, then change the filter at 9300 and top off what I lose. The next cycle I may go to 7,000 - 7,500 miles before the next drain and fill.
Obviously, the name of the game is to keep the oil and filter in the bike to the longest effective amount while still being with-in BRP guidelines for warranties sake. I think the M1 will do that. Unlike a screw-on filter, the cartridge filter is able to last longer and filter better while still maintaining the high volume flow demand the bike requires. Seeing a lot of cages going that way on filters, GM and Chrysler for the most part.
The other consideration is calendar time. Our machine does not get parked during the winter, it is used all year. 5000 miles for us will be about each 18 months based on how much we currently ride. Just some ideas and reasons why it may be advisable to work with the lower mileage, 3 years seems like a long time to let oil be inside an engine / gearbox. Especially if any acids or combustion byproducts are suspended in the oil. PK
Big +1!!! Remember, the operator's guide says 9,300 miles OR once a year.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
If you bring Mobil 1 4T to a BRP dealer, will they put it in a Spyder?????????
Haven't tried with my dealer because I like doing my own maintenance as much as possible but from other discussions with them they probably would with no problem. OTOH from what I've read on SL it might be a crap shoot or definite refusal with some dealers. I know of one dealership not too far from me that does nothing but BRP OEM stuff, no third party products at all.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
Mobil 1 Oil Analysis Report
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Originally Posted by PMK
I am planning the same!
Question for you
