have found many good tips on trailering one question when on the trailer do you leave the park brake set or leave it off and just strap it down have a couple of spyder riders give different answers your 2cents worth please
I've never had to trailer mine, but if I ever do it will be in 1st gear, park brake on, strapped down with 4 straps. Why would you take any chance of it moving if one of the options failed? A few good wheel chocks would be in place. that's my .02
I've never had to trailer mine, but if I ever do it will be in 1st gear, park brake on, strapped down with 4 straps. Why would you take any chance of it moving if one of the options failed? A few good wheel chocks would be in place. that's my .02
I leave the Spyder in neutral with the brake on.
where are you going to put the fourth strap? One over each front wheel and one through the rear wheel makes three.
I have found wheel chocks pushed into the wheels don't stay there. Since the suspension is not strapped under load, the tires flex on bumps and push out the chocks. You would have to mount chocks into the trailer floor for them to stay put.
if it's semi auto it doesn't matter in what gear it will still roll so best leave it in neutral. If it is manual it's not a good idea to leave it in gear cause it is rough on the transmission. Same goes for the brake so basically if you tie her down right you should not need to have it in gear or have the park brake on...this is how I towed all bikes....
Gene and Ilana De Laney Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
When I trailer the Spyder, I do it the same as the tractor or car. Parking brake on, 4 axle straps through the wheels and 4 ratchet straps (1 each on the fronts, 2 on the rear, all 4 going at diagonals to the hooks at the 4 corners of the trailer and wheel chocks screwed to the trailer floor. It's safety first: both for the Spyder and for anyone or anything which might be nearby in the event of some kind of failure.
On my 2014 RTS - SE6, there is a warning chime if you shut off the key with the parking brake off. If a person wanted to trailer without the parking brake, they would need to disconnect the battery to silence the chime.
SE-6 here...
Neutral; with the parking brake on, and three straps...
Check the straps shortly after you start your trip, and then every couple of hours after that.
SE-6 here...
Neutral; with the parking brake on, and three straps...
Check the straps shortly after you start your trip, and then every couple of hours after that.
I agree with Bob---SE6- leave in Neutral, use 3 straps, check it after moving a little bit and check it often during your trip. The straps do come loose! This is exactly how we do it and it works great!
2015 RT-Limited SE6-TricLED Fender LED's (Red and Amber), 3rd LED Brake Light/Tail Light, ISCI Handbrake with black small hands handle,Spyderpops Rock Guard. ,Can-Am Adjustable Wing Vents, Bumpskid, Bajaron's Sway-Bar with metal Heim Joints. Elkas Stage 2 Plus., TricLED Wide-VU Mirrors, TricLED Jumper Port, Laser Aligned!
Good thread but not sure if it will work for me. Live in Arizona, looking to get a spyder in california (~ 500 miles away) and was thinking of getting a uhaul open trailer to bring her home. Don't think uhaul would appreciate me modifying their trailer and don't have a spyder manual so no idea what it says about transporting. Any thoughts on securing to a uhaul open bed trailer? I'm guessing I'll need a 6 x 12 to be safe.
On my 2014 RTS - SE6, there is a warning chime if you shut off the key with the parking brake off. If a person wanted to trailer without the parking brake, they would need to disconnect the battery to silence the chime.
H2O
Why? Doesn't your chime quit after about 20 seconds, like mine?
NEW - 2015 RT Limited SE6 Intense Red Pearl - 07/21/15
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Michelin Defender.......rear tire (at...53,500 miles) Ran for 60,700 miles
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Vredestein Quatrac 5 front tires (at 70,500 miles, first new fronts!)
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Send a pm to Mike( Blueknight911) on how he strapped down a 2012RTS-SE5( that was mine) on a snowmobile trailer. Deanna
Current Spyder - 2023 F3 LTD Special Mineral Blue
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Lamonster "Top Cuff" with adjustable drink Holder
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Console Accent Trim (Carbon Fiber Domed Black)
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I have an SE5, and in my toyhauler I have parking brake on and tie downs on each front wheel and two on the back wheel going out to the corners of the garage. I have the CAN AM tie downs, got them off ebay, still pricey... but they are set up to go thru the wheels and are padded so they dont scratch. Come as a set of four.
[IMG][/IMG]
2013 Spyder ST Limited...Akrapovic Sport Silencer, Fog Lights, Backrest, Spyderpops BumpSkid, 2014 cooling panels, BajaRon swaybar, Fox shocks, RS-S mag wheels...
2014 Spyder RT-S, Spyderpops BumpSkid, BajaRon Swaybar, TricLED lighting, Magic Mirrors, Akrapovic Sport Silencer...
Why? Doesn't your chime quit after about 20 seconds, like mine?
As impatient as I am, I never waited that long to see if it would quit on its own. I couldn't stand the noise so I turned the key back to the on position while I was doing whatever it was I was doing at the time.
After reviewing many of the trailering threads I decided to follow Mike's advice and strap all three tires u-haul style. I have a 7x12 enclosed trailer with ramp door. I chose a position over the axle allowing most of the 1000+ lbs to be over the single axle rather than further forward making excessive hitch weight. Attached photos show how I did it. Real wheel used 33,000 lb ratchet strap, front wheels used 2 In 1600 lb straps. Anchors are 3/8 in 6000 lb bolted through 3/4 in advantech floor with 3/8 x 2 in carriage bolts and 1.5 in flat washers and a lock washer. I have not trailered it yet except for short test run, so if anyone has advice as to how I can improve or have errored, please comment. My initial impression is that it is pretty secure and not going to move much. I plan to leave trans in neutral with parking brake on.
When I trailer the Spyder, I do it the same as the tractor or car. Parking brake on, 4 axle straps through the wheels and 4 ratchet straps (1 each on the fronts, 2 on the rear, all 4 going at diagonals to the hooks at the 4 corners of the trailer and wheel chocks screwed to the trailer floor. It's safety first: both for the Spyder and for anyone or anything which might be nearby in the event of some kind of failure.
Sent from my little piece of paradise!
I Concure, this is how I tie my Spyder down too!! Better safe that sorry!!!
have found many good tips on trailering one question when on the trailer do you leave the park brake set or leave it off and just strap it down have a couple of spyder riders give different answers your 2cents worth please
I highly recommend factory way. Look in your Manuel under Transporting The Vehicle.
It has good pictures and its so much easier than some of the suggestions made here.
It has you putting it neutral parking brake off to pull it up onto a trailer ( in a broken mode) it never tells you in the stap down mode to put it back in gear or set brake so leave in neutral brake off when transporting.
Kennn
ps parking brake is only on back tire
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 02-16-2020 at 06:06 PM.
Reason: OP added a ps; PA fixed quote display
yes 6 x 10 or longer. the issue will be getting ramps long enough to get the spyder on and off. The ramp in the middle can be a little shorter. The Spyder sits low so you will need long ramps for the out side (front wheels). The Rt is about 64 inches wide and 9 foot long. Few ways to strap it down. best is over the top of the wheels but for you; you may have to use the through the wheels with ratchet straps place a soft rag or towel on the strap between the strap and rims so you don't scratch them. Tie the all 3 wheels down using 3 straps.
My wheel chocks have a slot on the back side. One in front of the tire and one in rear of the tire, then run a strap through the slots and lock it in place. Also put a strap on the rear wheel, but not through the wheel. It goes through the frame in front of the wheel.
Only time it has ever been on a trailer is the day I picked it up at the dealership.
You should rethink the rear strap. If you ever get in an accident or have to leave the road because of an accident in front of you that Spyder may not stay with you.
You should rethink the rear strap. If you ever get in an accident or have to leave the road because of an accident in front of you that Spyder may not stay with you.
With it secured like that up front & no rear strap (of any sort) there's nothing at all holding your Spyder DOWN & on the tray besides its own weight, and there's nothing at all to stop it bouncing forwards & over that beam of wood in front of the front tires in the event of an impact &/or sudden/hard stop !!
IF you're lucky, that sudden/hard stop or knock might only bounce the tires up & over the beam, damaging the front end of the Spyder & maybe the suspension too; but if the stop is sudden/hard enough, there's the potential for the Spyder to bounce forwards up & over the beam & flipping, ending up inverted half in the back of your truck, albeit with the front tires still securely tied to the front of the trailer! Not happy Jan!
If you haven't secured the front tires DOWN behind that beam in addition to the straps holding it forwards across the top of the beam that we can see, then your Spyder really isn't too much better off than just leaving it sitting on the flat trailer deck with a couple of chocks in front of the front tires!! At least with a strap holding/pulling the rear wheel back towards the back of the trailer, it'd lessen the risk of your Spyder bouncing forwards over the beam in the event of an impact or sudden/hard stop; but ideally, you really should secure at least one end DOWN & onto the trailer bed!
Me, with straps like that up front, I'd be fixing the rear tire down with something like an E-track ratchet strap over the tire circumferentially. Or better yet, I'd strap the front tires down using the same style of E-track ratchets, & secure the rear tire either the same way or with a strap wrapped figure 8 style around the rim & tire so that it'll stop the rear of your Spyder moving from side to side as well as holding it back & down!
trailering a spyder
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Originally Posted by MZEMS2
With it secured like that up front & no rear strap (of any sort) there's nothing at all holding your Spyder DOWN & on the tray besides its own weight, and there's nothing at all to stop it bouncing forwards & over that beam of wood in front of the front tires in the event of an impact &/or sudden/hard stop !! 
At least with a strap holding/pulling the rear wheel back towards the back of the trailer, it'd lessen the risk of your Spyder bouncing forwards over the beam in the event of an impact or sudden/hard stop; but ideally, you really should secure at least one end DOWN & onto the trailer bed! 
