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Thread: Dead Spyder

  1. #1
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    Angry Dead Spyder

    I just got my first ride today 8-2-2015. I bought a used one for a great deal that I could not pass up.
    I haven't been able to ride it yet due to mechanical difficulties that I did not expect. I rolled it off the trailer and thought everything was good after inspecting the bike. Well that's where it all went downhill. I grabbed my helmet, strapped it on, turned the key, hit start and voila it started after two cranks. that lasted about 10 seconds and it died. okay no problem, it's cold and needs to warm up I thought. To make a long story short I never got it started again. The battery went dead and every time I tried to start it it would just click. I finally got smart and tried to jump start it. Well that charged the battery up enough to get it to turn over but it still wouldn't start. So now I am left guessing/wondering what is wrong with this thing. I bought it from a dealer out of state so not sure how to handle the dilemma with the dealership. I expected to receive a bike that was in working condition but ended up with a dead battery and a possible fouled plug. I don't know what else could be wrong with this thing, do you?

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    What model and year is the Spyder? Did you buy it new or used? First thing I would do is put it on a battery charger, and check to be sure that the battery connections are not loose.
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  3. #3
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    it's a used 2012 rms sm5. I will have to buy a charger to see if it will hold a charge

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    Default new battery

    My suggestion - shell out the $ for a proper brand new battery - try the dealer for a 'cost price' deal maybe? Then put it on a battery tender as often as you can - seems to be really important for the v-twin spyders. Lots of threads here on all sorts of problems which occur if batteries are low...

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    If the machine has been sitting around for awhile the battery would have been marginal at best. It's not unusual to have to buy one when you buy a second hand machine, bargains can have a sting in the tail sometimes!
    When boosting from a car battery you have to be extra careful that the connections are solid ya don't want to blow the 'lectronics.

    As with anything second hand check the plugs and oil condition. If the oil is muddy you have water in it, if it is black and dirty it's probably ok. One plug is easier to get at than the other which could mean only one has been replaced in its previous service (s) but check the easy one just in case! These are all obvious things to check. You didn't say anything about your history with the Spyder, did you ride it before you bought it or just rolled in off the lot?

    Quote Originally Posted by spy_der_man View Post
    I just got my first ride today 8-2-2015. I bought a used one for a great deal that I could not pass up.
    I haven't been able to ride it yet due to mechanical difficulties that I did not expect. I rolled it off the trailer and thought everything was good after inspecting the bike. Well that's where it all went downhill. I grabbed my helmet, strapped it on, turned the key, hit start and voila it started after two cranks. that lasted about 10 seconds and it died. okay no problem, it's cold and needs to warm up I thought. To make a long story short I never got it started again. The battery went dead and every time I tried to start it it would just click. I finally got smart and tried to jump start it. Well that charged the battery up enough to get it to turn over but it still wouldn't start. So now I am left guessing/wondering what is wrong with this thing. I bought it from a dealer out of state so not sure how to handle the dilemma with the dealership. I expected to receive a bike that was in working condition but ended up with a dead battery and a possible fouled plug. I don't know what else could be wrong with this thing, do you?
    2012 RT , Yes Lava Bronze

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    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    It's flooded so you need to do a Wide Open Throttle (WOT) start procedure. Charge the battery fully or hookup booster cables. Nothing in your description leads me to believe your battery is bad so far.

    Hold the throttle wide open and crank the engine for 30 seconds max. Let the starter motor cool for a minute and do it again. Then try and start normally.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

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    Very Active Member AMTJIM's Avatar
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    I'd call that dealer first, if it's not to far away take it back if your work/personal schedule allows...there is a 3 day return law. But make sure they do get notified and take names and notes. You should have to make no purchases or repairs, it's already a hassle enough. Do you have a Spyder shop close by or is the dealer the closest you have, you may need some BUDS time to diagnose if it wasn't a Spyder dealer. They need to make this right all on their dime, including all trailering/towing.

    Besides that, was this dropped off to you "as is" sight unseen? Did you test drive it before purchase or see it run?
    Last edited by AMTJIM; 08-03-2015 at 10:14 AM.
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    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Agree..!!

    I will assume no testing or ryding was done prior so the gas condition could be an issue. Considering it did start and run for a short time you would have a fuel or electrcal problem...let us know along the way...
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    Thank you for all the replies.
    I bought the bike from a dealer in Texas and I live in California (first mistake) so I had it shipped here and it arrived yesterday after waiting almost a month to get it. With that said, no I did not get to test drive the bike. I assumed (second mistake) since it came from a dealer (Mission City Indian) it should have been inspected before being sold. I tried the WOT suggestion and that did not work. I got a message stating "low battery voltage". That happened while I tried to jump start it.
    I have contacted my attorney and I was advised to take it to my local dealer and have the problems documented and forward them to the dealer I bought the bike from and ask them "what are you going to do?" questions.
    I do hope it is something small to fix.......
    I should mention that I made several calls to the dealer over the last month asking and demanding my bike be delivered immediately. I wonder if my persistence annoyed them enough to damage the bike before it was shipped. i.e. sugar in gas tank, loose plug wire, etc.
    I guess I will find out in the next few days....... To Be Continued

    Oh I forgot, I looked at the pictures of the bike online and I can see that the gas tank went from empty to full when it was delivered.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member coz's Avatar
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    Default Put a battery in it

    See what happens, and take it from there.
    it was fun while it lasted.

  11. #11
    Very Active Member dlby's Avatar
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    Get a battery
    Just went through it

    Can not even rwally jumpit wi a bad battery
    bad cell in battery
    Makes you thinkbike is imploding
    New battery --- alll is well

    Walmart

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    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Please give us a follow up and let us know what you found out and if its is just a battery or something worse.

    I will say to the family. No criticism here. What is done is done.

    Let us help with getting it up and running.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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    Default Don't Give Up

    I had the same issue when I bought my new 2010 RTS in 2012. It had been sitting around and every time the outside temp dropped, it wouldn't crank. 2 weeks later my dealer put in a new battery and I've had no problems since. Over 10,000 awesome miles.

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    Very Active Member bruiser's Avatar
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    It's a bad battery. A battery with a bad cell will not accept a charge. Go with your attorneys advice.



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    Very Active Member PistonBlown's Avatar
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    When I got my RS it had been the showroom one and so had sat there doing nothing for over a year. It had never been ridden so they charged up the battery etc before I picked it up. I road it for 20 minutes before having similar problems to you after stopping the engine, fortunately I'd just been riding it around town while waiting for the ferry so was able to push it back to the dealers and they replaced the battery. Not had a problem since.

    My guess, like others, is the battery. They just don't seem to like being left and you'll see a string of posts on this forum about battery related issues every spring. I suspect the dealer found the battery flat and charged it before sending it out, which may have let the bike start once (like mine did) but after that it was munted.

    My temptation would be to say to your local dealer - if it's just the battery then replace it, if not then document the issues but don't do the work. Either way contact the Texas dealer afterwards and ask them what they are going to do about it. If it is just the battery then the cost of a new one and the half hour labour it would take to fit it is going to be less than you'd pay in legal costs anyway - and you'll be on the road and happy:-). Your local dealers will not like being in the middle of something like this so you need to be a little careful there.

  16. #16
    Active Member 3 wheeler's Avatar
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    I had the same problem when I bought my 2011 RS. It was a leftover sitting on the showroom floor for a long time. The battery would not hold a charge. My dealer gave me a new battery and all was well. It has been an incredible machine for 2 1/2 years now. I always keep it on a trickle charger when it's sitting.
    2020 CAN-AM Spyder F3-S Special Series (sold)

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    So let me get this straight, it will not start even after being jumped? Is that correct? I believe what you all say, I did not know that they are that sensitive. I guess I am trying to compare it to a car battery. You know jump start your car and it fires up and off you go until you shut it off. If that is the case that you all think its the battery I am blessed if that is all it is.
    Over the last couple of days I have been arguing with a sales associate about the events that have transpired. I will post the conversation and you will see why I have gotten an attorney involved.....


    Dear Sir,
    I apologize for your frustration. Can I ask you a question? After turning on the key did you press the M button on the dash before attempting to start the bike? That is a safety feature that Can Am uses to help prevent children from having accidental starts if left unsupervised. If you could call my cellphone number, I would be happy to talk you through the start up process and I apologize that it was not better explained by the sales rep you were working with.
    Sincerely

    I rolled it off the trailer, pushed both mode buttons, pushed start button, bike started, shut off after approximately 10 seconds. Battery died after that. I tried to charge the battery as well as jump start the bike with negative results.

    Yes sir,
    I apologize again and will let the owner of the dealership know.

    Please do. This is beyond ridiculous the time I've had to wait just to get this bike and have this happen.
    I expect to be hearing from the owner in a timely manner to fix this situation.

    Sir,
    I would ask one other thing please. Was the key in the ignition when you received the Can Am? The bike was fully serviced and the battery was charged as well, as the bike was driven onto the trailer. We ask because if the transporter left the key on at anytime during the trip, that would be the responsibility of the transport agent.

    At this point in time it is irrelevant where the key was left, it still won't start by being jump started, charged or any other option necessary to get it going have failed.


    Sir,
    At this point it is indeed very relevant because when it was at the dealership it underwent a State Mandated Pre Delivery Inspection, was serviced and cranked and moved on a daily basis and it was cranked and driven onto the trailer. If the transporter left the key in it and someone tried charging it or jumping it on a 12 volt system then all of that happened after it left our shop, in which case it is relevant, especially considering the demeanor in which you initially made contact with us about the issue.

    Excuses excuses excuses. Typical dealership mumbo-jumbo doing what they do best blaming someone else or the customer.
    The issue at hand is still not being addressed. The bike will not start after I (pay attention to the I)stuck the key in the ignition and tried to start the bike. Like I said before it did start and died after about 5 to seconds and hasn't started since then.
    So who jumped what with what is after the fact.
    My demeanor is irrelevant, how I choose to respond to these email's is my business. Don't take it personal. This is a business transaction and you are dealing with a dissatisfied customer. I suggest you handle it appropriately or forward these emails to someone more professional and capable of dealing with an irate and dissatisfied customer. Try the owner for a suggestion.


    Sir,


    Since you think we are making excuses, here is the copy of the state safety inspection clearly showing starting and running voltage. These figures were also entered into our database and are logged and admissible as a state document. If there was an error by a person after it left our certified service department, be would like to know where that error occurred as well so that it may be avoided in the future. I would also like to state Sir, I am more than capable of dealing with an issue and honestly, the owner will hear an issue, but has matters he must address as well. That being said, if you need help resolving the issue, please, allow me to assist you and do not make anymore legal threats as is will cause the end of this dialogue. This dealership has built a very good reputation for service, but, you Sir, seem more interested in causing a stir up and getting loud to the highest person possible instead coming to a resolution in order to get your bike running. If you would like to come to the understanding that things happen on a transport truck that are out of dealer hands, and things happen when a vehicle is unloaded that are out of dealer hands, then we would like to assist you in getting your bike fixed. If you continue being an "irate" customer that only gets mad and threatens with lawyers, then I must stop talking with you as I wouldn't want to upset you further.


    Talk about demeanor, very professional in his dealings with customers.....

  18. #18
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    At this point you don't have anything to lose if you contact the dealer and work with their suggestions. For now, let bygones be bygones and see if they can give you any help or assistance--they are willing, and hopefully able.

    It is possible that the transporter person may have done something to screw up the bike. Sit, test drive, turn on and then not turn key off, etc.


    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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  19. #19
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    Default call it quits

    quote from above - The bike was fully serviced and the battery was charged as well, as the bike was driven onto the trailer.

    Herein lies the problem.
    As in other posts, a charged-up battery just doesn't do it for the spyders once the battery is a bit old. Totally different to car batteries in my experience.

    My advice - just buy a new battery and start enjoying your spyder. Save your ammunition in case something really goes wrong (ie assuming new battery does fix all problems, which is highly likely). Chalk it up to experience.

  20. #20
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    I will try a new battery tomorrow and see what happens.

  21. #21
    Very Active Member AMTJIM's Avatar
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    The Spyder which is more car stable than a motorcycle, they are all going over to sealed/unserviceable AGM/GelCell batteries. They don't mind leaning and can be mounted in all attitudes, still a little internally delicate to shock and vibes it seems. They had alot of reliability issues initially on many motorcycles, they would act very odd and show high voltage but have a bad cell, take a charge, but not hold it...they are getting better.
    In the twisties I was playing the tart...
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  22. #22
    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    Default Hmmmm

    No question, buy a new battery. Check the connections - make sure all are clean and bright. A loose ground wire on the frame has caused many of these exact issues. If the battery in it is over 3 years old, you would probably need to replace it anyway. I know many on here will say "my battery lasted XXX years, and no problems........." but really, they are an expendable item, like brake pads and hoses and stuff. I don't doubt it was inspected, and ridden onto the truck. I also doubt a reputable dealer would risk their reputation for $100 battery! It died, move on. Post up when it is fixed, and plan on riding it to the California event in a couple of weeks - Spyders in the Redwoods. This forum is great to share information, and the gatherings facilitated by this forum are just fantastic. Good luck! Joe
    Joe Meyer



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  23. #23
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    A new and fully-charged batter should be the solution to this...
    Please let us know what happens next; Good Luck!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    Okay, I replaced the battery and still won't run.....

  25. #25
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spy_der_man View Post
    Okay, I replaced the battery and still won't run.....
    I figured that would happen. Does it still crank just fine? If so it's flooded. Like I said in a previous post do a WOT start.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

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