I have Non-OEM trailer hitch mounting plates which are held on
by the axle nuts. I want to remove the plates. However, the axle "nut" on the left side is welded/part of the axle. The right side has a removable nut, after which the axle is pulled out.
Doing this will cause the wheel to drop and I have no idea what
problem this might cause or how difficult it would be to re-install the axle thru the wheel.
Can anyone tell me what I might be up against if I tried doing this?
I had the hitch plates done at the shop when a new tire was being put on last year, and I've never removed a rear wheel.
Sorta doubt its something I want to tackle either, but a local guy wants to buy the hitch and I don't use it anymore. If I have to pay an hour's shop labor, it doesn't make selling it hardly worthwhile.
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
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2018 Vanderhall
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I believe that as long as the belt "adjusters" are left alone; you'll be good to go!
Cptjam and SpyderAnn1 had posted about how to do this... You might want to PM them for more info...
Won't the wheel drop down or something? No parts, washers, etc, to drop off?
There video's on this ......The key is to remove the BOLT that holds the rear shock......People say you can't jack here but you can .....IF YOU PUT A PIECE OF STURDY WOOD across the bracket tabs that hold the bolt/shock assembly to carry the weight......DO NOT JACK THE BOTTOM OF THE SHOCK --- EVER ....By taking out this bolt you are relieving the pressure from the belt , which you can now slip off the sprocket ......DON'T TOUCH THE ADJUSTERS.....just put the wheel back on.....On the RT some have to remove the ARM from the AIR compressor from the swing arm.......FIND the video......Mike
You will not need to pull the axle, the brackets should come off when you pull the bolt. It just pass through the cetera of the axle, also no need to rise the wheel.
You will not need to pull the axle, the brackets should come off when you pull the bolt. It just pass through the cetera of the axle, also no need to rise the wheel.
Wow, now thats something I understand and should be able to do. Would it be useful to put a jack under and take just a little weight off the wheel? Or, is not just not necessary?
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
__________________
2016 Slingshot
2018 Vanderhall
2019 Slingshot
When you pull the caps off the rear bolts is there a hole in the center of the axle? If so you will have to pull the axle. You will need to follow blueknights posts.
The bolt runs through the center of the axle, just the remove the nut on the right side and slide the bolt out the left side.
Look at the picture again. He does not have a bolt that runs through the axle. As the OP clearly stated in his first post he has a aftermarket hitch that is held on by the axle.
Look at the picture again. He does not have a bolt that runs through the axle. As the OP clearly stated in his first post he has a aftermarket hitch that is held on by the axle.
PS Did not see your last post.
The OEM is much easier to remove. The axel nuts must come off no center bolt. Mike may be right taking the shock bolt ( and air shock feedback arm if so equipped) off and lifting it will take the tension off the belt and make it easier. I would have the shop re adjust the tension afterwards just in case.
2013 Mag Silver SE5 RT BahaRon Sway bar & Sway bar links, Grip Puppies, Kuryakyn Helmet locks , Ultimate Seat w/Utopia Backrest, Dash power outlet, Spyderpops BumpSkid, Swagman Cup holders, Full size Brake Pedal, Seal DLX Floorboards, Freeway Blaster horns, Sylvania Super Bright fender LEDs, Scotchlite 680 Rear & Fender Reflectors, BRP Fog Light Kit, LED Mirror turn signal strips, 2014 RT grille mod. Outlaw Laser Alignment
if you remove the rear shock lower bolt and support the wheel you will ease the tension on the belt making the removal of the axel easier. You should be able to reassemble without messing the adjustment and alignment...if you do have a laser alignment you might have it checked afterwards...
Gene and Ilana De Laney Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
I need to remove rear axle bolt for aftermarket hitch also .if I support tire and jack up body will tire stay in place. I have found no video.
James, no it won't. The belt tension will pull on the wheel and get it out of alignment.
The only way is to do what Blueknight describes above. That procedure was too much for my old bones so it took it to my dealer.
I noticed he put a jack under the rear shock and took the weight off the wheel slightly, and the rear bolt appeared to come out fairly easy; however, putting it back took some jiggling and tapping with plastic mallet. After securing the bolt on the right side, he jacked the wheel up enough so that it would easily roll by hand while he realigned the belt. That took several tries, tightening/untightening the bolt and readjusting before he was satisfied.
In short, unless you can do what Blueknight says, take it to your dealer.
Last edited by ulflyer; 07-06-2015 at 08:32 AM.
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
__________________
2016 Slingshot
2018 Vanderhall
2019 Slingshot
How Difficult is it to Remove the Rear Axle?
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Originally Posted by ingramsail
The OEM is much easier to remove. The axel nuts must come off no center bolt. Mike may be right taking the shock bolt ( and air shock feedback arm if so equipped) off and lifting it will take the tension off the belt and make it easier. I would have the shop re adjust the tension afterwards just in case. 
