Has the nanny learned to play nice with LEDs on the 2015?

[lou49]

Thanks. I appreciate your post but I have a bone to pick with videos like this. The guy may very well be an excellent Spyder tech, but his arrogant, know it all, paternalistic approach doesn't help. Rather than offer an explanation of why there was a problem with the top trunk LED and there was not a problem with the other LEDs, he chooses to just say one is bad and the other is ok. Watching the whole video, he repeats this attitude when talking about other aftermarket items (non-OEM). This kind of approach may be fine for people who buy a bike and leave it as is until they sell it or who pay the dealership to install everything, but for anyone who adds even the most basic farkles themselves, the "I know better than you" video he made is useless. I'm not criticizing you, and I really do appreciate the help, but videos like his that say "don't do this" without the "why" are useless beyond the most basic warning that you may run into trouble if you try it. He also failed to say what year and trim level RT he was riding. Considering the changes made by BRP every year, and especially considering you can now reprogram the flasher, leaving that information out is a major failure on his part.

I have ordered 2 of the proper base LED replacements for the rear turns. I'll make sure I leave the original bulbs in the trunk along with the tools to do a roadside repair should they cause an issue. I'll post my results when I know the actual ground truth.

At the risk of repeating myself again, I really do appreciate your post. I asked my question on this forum because of people like you who offer suggestions. I just wish the guy who made this video would have tried to educate people rather than berate them.

I would like to replace my turn signal bulbs also. Can you tell me where did you get yours? Thanks!

[Lew L]

Help us here......what exactly do you want to accomplish that the OEM's aren't doing for you ???.......Mike

I've never trusted the drivers behind me.** Brighter,crisper llighting has got to help. I've always up graded my lighting on every vehical I own. I have the CustomDynamics High Mount brake light--really adds to the visibility when the brakes are applied. I usually ryde with the fog lite on and hi-beams during the day ( unless I'm behind another vehical).

To Many drivers in this city are driving impared and I just want to be seen. Thusly my wuestion about front turnsignals. I just don't want to hear------"officer- I just didn't see him"-----

As to the backup lites I ordered-----My wife says I can't backup ( she is wrong but don't tell her I said so) I park in a darkish gargage- always backing in (for a quick getaway----- in between two motorcycles and the more light the better.

Getting hit or hitting something will cause::::::::::

Kaos

** The first rule of Italian driving-----" What's behind you is not important" Gumball Rally

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I've never trusted the drivers behind me.** Brighter,crisper llighting has got to help. I've always up graded my lighting on every vehical I own. I have the CustomDynamics High Mount brake light--really adds to the visibility when the brakes are applied. I usually ryde with the fog lite on and hi-beams during the day ( unless I'm behind another vehical).

To Many drivers in this city are driving impared and I just want to be seen. Thusly my wuestion about front turnsignals. I just don't want to hear------"officer- I just didn't see him"-----

As to the backup lites I ordered-----My wife says I can't backup ( she is wrong but don't tell her I said so) I park in a darkish gargage- always backing in (for a quick getaway----- in between two motorcycles and the more light the better.

Getting hit or hitting something will cause::::::::::

Kaos

** The first rule of Italian driving-----" What's behind you is not important" Gumball Rally

..I agree with everything you've said about being seen......but I'm not sure of what else you can do about the FRONT turn signals to improve them.......Maybe turn the TIP lights on the fenders to work as TURN signals....Someone here ( a vendor ) must make something that will combine the functions............Mike

[Lew L]

I recieved the back LED bulbs and following theowners manual there was NOway to get the bulb sockets out. You must also remove the black, lower cover ( holds the plate and rear fender). Then 3 more screws to remove the whole rear lighting bucket.-------then it's EASY.

Kaos

[Lew L]

The LED signal lights discussed in this thread have been recieved and installed. These lights are exceptionally BRIGHT. Really----- don't look directly at them for more than a sec. or two. You will get hyper flash and I had to try a few times to fix it. When Lamont says "HOLD DOWN" the flasher button he means it. But the 14's and newer 1330 will fix hyper flash


Again these lights will wake up the distracted fools who drive among us. It is a farkel worth considering and you don't have to remove the mirrors.

Hyper flash causes::::::::
Kaos

[Lew L]

..I agree with everything you've said about being seen......but I'm not sure of what else you can do about the FRONT turn signals to improve them.......Maybe turn the TIP lights on the fenders to work as TURN signals....Someone here ( a vendor ) must make something that will combine the functions............Mike

I know that many motorycyles ( my V-Max included) has front marker lights that are also the front signal lights----so it's doable.


Kaos

[Lew L]

The dreaded hyperflash has returned!!! I'll try resetting it but I may just solder in the resistors.

Does any body know what value and wattage the resistor should be???

Thanks in advance.

Kaos

[Peter Aawen]

Hey Kaos, since (if all else fails) one way of getting computers to accept LED's on most other vehicles is to just extend the LED wiring into the trunk & fit/include a normal incandescent globe in it; you should be able to find a resistor that 'matches' those values fairly readily - or just add an 'always on' light to your trunk/frunk or underbody somewhere!

But do make sure to remember to turn it & your LEDs off when you walk away from the Spyder!

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

The dreaded hyperflash has returned!!! I'll try resetting it but I may just solder in the resistors.

Does any body know what value and wattage the resistor should be???

Did you hold the hazard button in long enough? I found this evening you have to hold it quite awhile. I watched the turn indicator arrows on the dash. At first they flashed at different rates, then slowly they became synchronized and the hyperflash was gone. In another thread someone said the cluster screen will flash or hiccup, but I never saw that.

[Lew L]

I actually timed it to a bit over 30 sec holding the flasher button down. Worked but only for a while. I'll try a few more times and watch the video again also. I must be missing something.
Hey Peter, I installed actual bulbs---- no wires. I'll solder in resistors no problemo--------BUT-------

What is the value and wattage of the resistors?????


Some electrical wizard out there must know how to manipulate Ohms law to find out????

Kaos

[ursamajor35126]

The resistance of an incandescent bulb starts low then increases as the bulb heats up. Since LED's are a constant load you don't have as much resistance. I would suggest 100 ohm 1 watt resisters in series with the positive lead. That should fix the problem. As always, YMMV. Good luck.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

[Lew L]

Did some research and found a suggested 50 watt at 6 ohms wired in parallel. So of course I'm really confused now??????? Has anyone actually put in a resistor that works with a LED BULB ????

The wrong resistor might cause ::::::
Kaos

[ursamajor35126]

Contact Reggie at TricLed and ask him what size they use. They put a resistor in line on their kits.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

[Big Will 51]

The resister has to be in parallel to fix the hyper flash. The LEDs don't pull as much current as the bulb. The common turn signals are around 24 watts, so 2 amps for a 12V system. The LEDs draw maybe 1/4 of that so 0.5 amp. The math says 6 to 8 ohms at 50 watts. The high wattage on the resister is to keep it from burning up. If you got it at 25 Watts or lower it would start to over heat if the blinker is on very long. Mount the resisters in a spot that are not on the plastic and so they get some air flow, they can still get hot. You might try a higher value resister if you have one and see if that will let the fix the hyper flash. Going to 20 ohms you would only need a 20W resister and you would keep the current load down. Why waist it doing nothing.

[Lew L]

Thanks gentlemen,

The hyper flash is in remission fo now and the LED llights are bright!!!!!

Kaos