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  1. #1
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    Default Oil to use in 1330 eng.

    I have used Shell Rotella 15-40 in my machines for years with very good results. It is not syn. I notice BRP wants to use semi-sun. and not full syn. any reason for that ? What is the preferred oil on this list...........

  2. #2
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default ROTELLA

    This meets or exceeds ALL BRP warranty requirements ROTELLA T-6, 5w-40 ....Yes it's Full Syn......But BRP DOESN'T SAY YOU SHOULDN'T USE FULL SYN...where did you get that info ??????....................Mike ..................PS ---it sells for about $ 25 per Gal at Walmart

  3. #3
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    Default

    They put a blended mix in the bikes, but they also sell a full-synthetic product for use as well...
    (I'm switching to it at my next oil change...)
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  4. #4
    Registered Users paforonda587's Avatar
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    Default

    Can Am tech said blended works better in semi automatics than straight synthetic.

    Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default WHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAT

    Quote Originally Posted by paforonda587 View Post
    Can Am tech said blended works better in semi automatics than straight synthetic.

    Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk
    REALLY, ....................What's His / Her name I don't EVER want them touching my Spyder , Mike

  6. #6
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Default

    +1 on Mike's comment. That tech's never seen my 2014 RT-S SE6 shift with Mobil 1 10W-40 motorcycle oil -- way smoother than the BRP XPS semi-synthetic ever was in my transmission.

    From my operator's guide there's enough either/or to satisfy any owner so long as one uses oil that meets the API service classification:

    Use the XPS 4-STROKE SYNTH.
    BLEND OIL (SUMMER) (P/N 293 600
    121) or a 5W40 semi-synthetic (minimum)
    or synthetic motorcycle oil
    meeting the requirements for API service
    SL, SJ, SH, SG or higher classification.
    Always check the API service
    label on the oil container.
    Last edited by JayBros; 06-17-2015 at 04:36 PM.
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
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  7. #7
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    Default

    Make that a "+2".
    That's a very curious comment...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  8. #8
    Active Member krafael5's Avatar
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    Default oil question

    If you buy other than the brp products what about the fittings and copper rings? My oil change is due at 9300. Do i need to buy the fittings or not worry about it?

  9. #9
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    Default

    Saw this just now...(I jumped from my F3 forum fence a moment).

    Following another F3 owner (we have the 1330 ACE also), I also, last Friday, changed to the
    Amsoil 10w40 and used the filter kit from BajaRon (filter, all o-rings, all proper crush washers).
    This was my 1st change at 1400m.

    And yes smoother shifting/running from the get-go. I think the filter kits we $12+ each, then the oil
    is about $12/ea as I recall. Took a clean 6qts with a 1day full drain. (F3S-SE6 unit)
    2015 F3-S SE6 (Rorange)w/BlueRidge windscreen, +2 UFIT, pass backrest, pass floorboard, CrossCountry Saddlebags, BajaRon sway w/links, BANDC 12v under seat, BANDC USB left of key plug, GripPups, x-Creen Sport, 2-Up Rear


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  10. #10
    Very Active Member MikeinGA's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by paforonda587 View Post
    Can Am tech said blended works better in semi automatics than straight synthetic.

    Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk
    Please read your operator's guide! The CAN-AM tech gets paid to sell that oil. That's IMHO.

    Mike

  11. #11
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by krafael5 View Post
    If you buy other than the brp products what about the fittings and copper rings? My oil change is due at 9300. Do i need to buy the fittings or not worry about it?
    If you purchase a filter kit from BajaRon it will come with all the O-rings and two crush washers to completely do the job if you want to change out all the little parts. Some techs do not change all the O-rings; don't ask me how I know. I examined all my O-rings with a magnifying glass on last oil change and had to change only one, the lower, on the oil sump plug; all the rest were fine. You should ALWAYS change the crush washer on each plug every time you remove it. The crushing when torquing the plug gives the leak free seal. Once crushed the only way to guarantee a seal with a reused washer is to increase the torque and we know where that leads.
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
    otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
    ******************************
    Cognac 2014 RT-S

  12. #12
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by krafael5 View Post
    My oil change is due at 9300.
    Your oil change should be coming up at about 12,300...
    3,000 mile break-in service, PLUS the 9,300 interval...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  13. #13
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Default

    It is amazing what service techs will say. It is a good idea to do your own research. It's your Spyder!
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





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