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Very Active Member
2013 ST: My heat solution
Having used this successfully on the 2012 RTS, I am applying it to my (new to me) 2013 ST Limited.
I think the root cause of the heat are the exhaust pipes. Even though they are double walled and have at least ~1" minimum clearance (to most parts), I think the air flow in the body wicks off the high heat and moves it onto all the other components within the body. You can see how the exhaust pipe gets hot by having all that very hot air (being exposed to the exhaust pipes) being blown onto the gas tank. The master cylinder suffers the same fate as it is just behind the rear exhaust pipe. If you can contain the heat, it doesn't heat up everything inside the body as much.
My approach to mitigating the heat issue is to contain the heat in the exhaust pipes - but, not by wrapping the exhaust pipes or ceramic coating the inside of the pipes. Instead, I used an inexpensive ceramic insulation blanket that is rated to 2,400 degrees F that you can get on ebay for about $40. You will need some stainless steel exhaust wrap ties too. I wrapped both exhaust pipes that are inside the body work. It not only helped the RTS, but it helped improve the MPG as well.
I know there as been many threads on this topic. Many cite insufficient air flow leading to extra holes (at the bottom) or additional air scoops. Others have gone the exhaust wrap or ceramic coating on the inside of the exhaust pipes. BTW, we have double walled exhaust pipes. But, I think they only help so much. Or some people do some combination of both approaches. But I found the 1" thick insulation blanket really holds the heat in better. By keeping the heat in, the exhaust velocity stays up giving you more efficiency = better mpg. exhaust wrap or ceramic coating requires you to remove the exhaust pipes - a PITA. The insulation blanket lays over the exhaust pipe; the whole job can be done in about 3 hours.
The ST has some cleaner air flow in the bodywork, but the exhaust pipes are close to a lot of sensitive components. The insulation blanket restricts air flow even more than the stock layout so I will be keeping an eye out on how the insulation blanket holds up. On the RTS I didn't wrap the insulation blanket with tin foil and it got a little dirty over time. The tin foil should help, if anything you cannot see the insulation wrap.
I am about to take a 780 mile trip (tomorrow) and will report back on the results.
13 ST Limited F/R suspension, Corbin, GIVI top case
16 Vespa Primavera 150: Stock
16 Piaggio BV350: Suspension, braking mods in work
14 HD XL1200T: F/R suspension and brake mods; Corbin saddle and bags
09 Aprilia SC250: F/R suspension and minor brake mods
97 Honda PC800: F/R wheels, F/R suspension, and F/R brake Mods; Corbin saddle
90 CB-1: In work, long term project
89 Honda NT650: F/R suspension; Corbin saddle
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Very Active Member
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2013 ST: My heat solution
Originally Posted by spacetiger
Having used this successfully on the 2012 RTS, I am applying it to my (new to me) 2013 ST Limited.
I think the root cause of the heat are the exhaust pipes. Even though they are double walled and have at least ~1" minimum clearance (to most parts), I think the air flow in the body wicks off the high heat and moves it onto all the other components within the body. You can see how the exhaust pipe gets hot by having all that very hot air (being exposed to the exhaust pipes) being blown onto the gas tank. The master cylinder suffers the same fate as it is just behind the rear exhaust pipe. If you can contain the heat, it doesn't heat up everything inside the body as much.
My approach to mitigating the heat issue is to contain the heat in the exhaust pipes - but, not by wrapping the exhaust pipes or ceramic coating the inside of the pipes. Instead, I used an inexpensive ceramic insulation blanket that is rated to 2,400 degrees F that you can get on ebay for about $40. You will need some stainless steel exhaust wrap ties too. I wrapped both exhaust pipes that are inside the body work. It not only helped the RTS, but it helped improve the MPG as well.
I know there as been many threads on this topic. Many cite insufficient air flow leading to extra holes (at the bottom) or additional air scoops. Others have gone the exhaust wrap or ceramic coating on the inside of the exhaust pipes. BTW, we have double walled exhaust pipes. But, I think they only help so much. Or some people do some combination of both approaches. But I found the 1" thick insulation blanket really holds the heat in better. By keeping the heat in, the exhaust velocity stays up giving you more efficiency = better mpg. exhaust wrap or ceramic coating requires you to remove the exhaust pipes - a PITA. The insulation blanket lays over the exhaust pipe; the whole job can be done in about 3 hours.
The ST has some cleaner air flow in the bodywork, but the exhaust pipes are close to a lot of sensitive components. The insulation blanket restricts air flow even more than the stock layout so I will be keeping an eye out on how the insulation blanket holds up. On the RTS I didn't wrap the insulation blanket with tin foil and it got a little dirty over time. The tin foil should help, if anything you cannot see the insulation wrap.
I am about to take a 780 mile trip (tomorrow) and will report back on the results.
Sure makes a of sense.
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great job and makes sense, but
Originally Posted by poordom
Sure makes a of sense.
did you really use tin foil, and what thickness, or aluminum foil?
regards, Peter
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Very Active Member
Yes, the extra bulk has cut down the airflow. I road about 13 hours in 100 to 104 degree weather (using dash temp gauge). It was hot!
I used an IR gun to check temp. The gas tank neck (without cap on) was 120. The panels were 110-115. I was hoping for cooler temps but it was 100 out so maybe not to over the top. I think another change I made that doesn't help is adding the factory fog lights. Before they were extra holes for air to be scooped in the front. Now there is less air flowing through the body. I'll look into opening up the back and add some ducking up front to route air from front wheel well. I may still add some paring around gas tank. I did this on the rt but not the st.
I used heavy duty tin foil you buy from grocery store folded in half. Seems heavy enough.
I ride back in 2 days. So will check after long ride back.
13 ST Limited F/R suspension, Corbin, GIVI top case
16 Vespa Primavera 150: Stock
16 Piaggio BV350: Suspension, braking mods in work
14 HD XL1200T: F/R suspension and brake mods; Corbin saddle and bags
09 Aprilia SC250: F/R suspension and minor brake mods
97 Honda PC800: F/R wheels, F/R suspension, and F/R brake Mods; Corbin saddle
90 CB-1: In work, long term project
89 Honda NT650: F/R suspension; Corbin saddle
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just found something for you...
Originally Posted by spacetiger
Having used this successfully on the 2012 RTS, I am applying it to my (new to me) 2013 ST Limited.
I think the root cause of the heat are the exhaust pipes. Even though they are double walled and have at least ~1" minimum clearance (to most parts), I think the air flow in the body wicks off the high heat and moves it onto all the other components within the body. You can see how the exhaust pipe gets hot by having all that very hot air (being exposed to the exhaust pipes) being blown onto the gas tank. The master cylinder suffers the same fate as it is just behind the rear exhaust pipe. If you can contain the heat, it doesn't heat up everything inside the body as much.
on a german website, but do not know how to post it. its 10mm thick , than surrounded by a 1/10 mm
steel tape, than usually welded... will call them tomorrow for my st ltd. If you send me a private message
I will pass on the info to you via email.
Regards,Peter
My approach to mitigating the heat issue is to contain the heat in the exhaust pipes - but, not by wrapping the exhaust pipes or ceramic coating the inside of the pipes. Instead, I used an inexpensive ceramic insulation blanket that is rated to 2,400 degrees F that you can get on ebay for about $40. You will need some stainless steel exhaust wrap ties too. I wrapped both exhaust pipes that are inside the body work. It not only helped the RTS, but it helped improve the MPG as well.
I know there as been many threads on this topic. Many cite insufficient air flow leading to extra holes (at the bottom) or additional air scoops. Others have gone the exhaust wrap or ceramic coating on the inside of the exhaust pipes. BTW, we have double walled exhaust pipes. But, I think they only help so much. Or some people do some combination of both approaches. But I found the 1" thick insulation blanket really holds the heat in better. By keeping the heat in, the exhaust velocity stays up giving you more efficiency = better mpg. exhaust wrap or ceramic coating requires you to remove the exhaust pipes - a PITA. The insulation blanket lays over the exhaust pipe; the whole job can be done in about 3 hours.
The ST has some cleaner air flow in the bodywork, but the exhaust pipes are close to a lot of sensitive components. The insulation blanket restricts air flow even more than the stock layout so I will be keeping an eye out on how the insulation blanket holds up. On the RTS I didn't wrap the insulation blanket with tin foil and it got a little dirty over time. The tin foil should help, if anything you cannot see the insulation wrap.
I am about to take a 780 mile trip (tomorrow) and will report back on the results.
http://www.isaak-schweisstechnik.com...solierung.html have a look
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Very Active Member
Last edited by spacetiger; 03-02-2018 at 10:56 PM.
13 ST Limited F/R suspension, Corbin, GIVI top case
16 Vespa Primavera 150: Stock
16 Piaggio BV350: Suspension, braking mods in work
14 HD XL1200T: F/R suspension and brake mods; Corbin saddle and bags
09 Aprilia SC250: F/R suspension and minor brake mods
97 Honda PC800: F/R wheels, F/R suspension, and F/R brake Mods; Corbin saddle
90 CB-1: In work, long term project
89 Honda NT650: F/R suspension; Corbin saddle
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