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Member
Tools needed
I have searched with no luck, does anyone know what tools I will need for
Oil change
u-fit linkages
If you have a link on changing the oil on the f3 that would be great too
thanks
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by Jer
I have searched with no luck, does anyone know what tools I will need for
Oil change
u-fit linkages
If you have a link on changing the oil on the f3 that would be great too
thanks
Lol has anyone changed the oil in their F3 yet? Tons of videos about RT's changing oil but no F3's
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Member
Not sure, lol, I'm putting my #4 u-fit linkages on this evening which should be pretty easy.
I will b changing my oil in a few weeks but I don't think I'm talented enough to make a video while I do it.
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Very Active Member
I do not own an F3; however, it has the 1330 engine and the part numbers are the same for the drain plugs and oil filter cover so you should be equipped with a Torx T45 bit for the engine oil drain plug (M14 x 1.5), a 6 mm Allen wrench for the Transmission (actually it's called clutch cover) drain plug (M12 x 1.5), a 36 mm socket (1/2" drive for which you might also need an extension) to remove the oil filter cover, a torque wrench if you're inclined to tighten removed plugs and cover to the proper specs, which I recommend. Body panel removal instructions begin on page 28 of your operator's guide and oil change instructions begin on page 97. The job will be simpler if your drain pan is large enough to remove both plugs simultaneously. Also, when I loosened the oil filter cover I heard additional oil draining into the pan but don't know if it came from both plugs or just the engine drain plug. You may find both drain plugs very tight so make certain each bit is firmly seated in the plug before attempting to loosen them.
The most uncomfortable part of the whole task is crawling around on the garage or shop floor if you don't have the capability to get the Spyder sufficiently far enough to easily remove the drain plugs. Automobile ramps were all I needed. YMMV. Good Luck!
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Very Active Member
I just did this last week and JayBros' explanation is spot on. My 36mm oil filter cover wrench didn't fit, need to grind it open slightly,
so instead I used (gasp!) slip-joint pliers. Worked fine. Don't tell anyone.
Enjoying now: 2015 Spyder F3 SE6, 1970 Indian MM-5A, 1972 Suzuki RV90J Rover, 2017 Indian Chieftain (wife's)
Wish-I-had-kept-them: 2008 Spyder GS SE-5, 1967 Shelby GT500 w/Paxton supercharger, 1972 DeTomaso Pantera, 1991, 1992 & 2001 Acura NSX's, 2012 V-Star 950 Tourer, various 2-, 3- and 4-wheelers
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Member
Thanks guys that's great info, exactly what I was looking for
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Active Member
If I remember correctly, the pegs use a 5mm Allen wrench and the linkages use a 10mm wrench or socket. Be careful when removing the bolts on the pegs. BRP used a lot of blue loctite on those bolts. When I was swapping out the pegs for the floorboards, I rounded out the allen head recess in two of the bolts and had to drill off the bolt heads. Those bolts should be cap screws, not button heads - the allen recess is pretty shallow...
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- Carl
2017 Can Am F3-L (current ryde)
2015 Can Am F3-S (previous ryde)
2012 BMW K1600 (previous ride)
2016 Can Am F3-T (wife's)
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Oil change
Concur with Jay. As you seat the allen socket in the drain plugs, tap with a hammer. These strip out very easy! Joe
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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