Added MUTH Mirrors to my Spyder RT

[finless]

Hey folks,
So after doing the huge job of adding sequential turn signals behind the mirrors and ultimately not liking them as they were not bright enough for me in the daylight, I decided to replace them with the MUTH mirror system.

So here is what they look like. I am much happier with these



Enjoy,
Bob

[cuznjohn]

i have had them on both my 13 and now 14 rt's and i love them

[Chupaca]

video, as usual. Now you've tried them all..till the next one. I think this one will last...
I have the little outrigger ones...work well on the RS...

[jtoro1]

Nice add on I should of went that route before braking my right mirror installing the sequential arrows

[cyclelover63]

My next farkle..that and 3rd brake light..right after tires for my pickup...

[NM Wrench]

Hi I just watched Lamont on you tube and he has the procedure to fix your hyperflash after installing LED lights! This should fix your problem.

http://www.shopspyderlovers.com/news...-led-lighting/

[finless]

Hi I just watched Lamont on you tube and he has the procedure to fix your hyperflash after installing LED lights! This should fix your problem.

http://www.shopspyderlovers.com/news...-led-lighting/

That only works on 2014 and up RTs. Does not work on 2013 and below!

Bob

[finless]

FYI the reason you get a fast blink:
The cluster (or flasher unit in old cars) is set for a certain load. It will fast blink to let you know you have a light burned our or shorted.

Adding lights puts resistors in parallel. Each light has a certain amount of resistance. To understand OHMs law, when you put 2 resistors in parallel it lowers the total resistance. For instance if you put two 100 OHM resistors in parallel the total resistance drops to 50 OHMs! Adding resistors in series make the resistance go up. For instance two 100 OHM resistors in series is 200 OHMs. So as you add lights, your adding them to other lights in parallel. Thus the total resistance drops and thus current goes up. The flasher system sees this and fast flashes. To fix the problem, you can add a resistor in series with one light to bring the total resistance back up. What resistance this will be is based on what the total resistance drop was when you added the light. To calculate that using OHMs law you would need to know the resistance of ALL of the lights which we do not unless we want to spend the time to measure them all.

So if you get a fast flash after adding a light, I usually start at 100 ohms and go up until it stops. However be aware adding a resistor to one light dims that light a little. The higher the resistance you add in series with the light, the dimmer it gets. If you do not like how dim the light gets once you find the resistance you need, then you can try adding low resistors in series with more than one light. For instance lets say I had to add 300 OHMs to one light and it was now just too dim. Well you could try adding 100 OHMs to two lights or maybe three lights.

So this is to give you some ideas and why this happens should you have this issue.

FYI, the 2014/15 RT's have a calibration routine you can do instead of adding resistors.

Bob

[JerryB]

Hi finless,

Re: So this is to give you some ideas and why this happens should you have this issue.

And that is why I studied Mechical Engineering and not Electrical Engineering.

But it was a nice read, Bob; thanks for doing it.

Jerry Baumchen

[NorCalBud]

Finless,
Far be it for me to question your abilities (I would never), but I thought this could be of some assistance. Starting on post #31 it is stated that the gentlemen spoke with TricLed and they suggested trying a 220 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor in series with the positive lead. It seemed to work for them where 100ohm did not.
Further down the another poster says he got it working better with 330ohm
Reggy stated "The Led pulls about 70 milliamps, using a 330ohm resistor reduces that down to about 30 milliamps and it still is bright enough but will fix the issue some is having."

I'm having the same fast blink issue (with TricLED's not MUTH) and haven't yet added any resistor, so please let us know what size resolves it for you, won't you?

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ght=fast+blink

[MarkLawson]

Have them & love them. I installed them about 25 months ago & went with the red instead of amber. Not sure why I chose red, but did. Never had the rapid flash issue.

I installed them many years ago on my GL1800A Goldwing. Bugged them and bugged them repeatedly until they came out with the mirrors for the Goldwing. Was one of their first Goldwing customers.

[WilMo1775]

Hey folks,
So after doing the huge job of adding sequential turn signals behind the mirrors and ultimately not liking them as they were not bright enough for me in the daylight, I decided to replace them with the MUTH mirror system.

So here is what they look like. I am much happier with these



Enjoy,
Bob

couldn't help but notice the digital temp gauge can you give me the info on that please

[bcoulter19]

I would bet that's a digital volt meter since I've never seen him do a video on a digital temp gauge but i have on a digital volt meter.

Bill C.

Finless let me know if I'm right. LOL

[finless]

Norcalbud, I cannot tell you the best resistor my friend. Per my write up above. It will depend on what other lights you have added and the total change in resistance.
Again the higher resistor you use the dimmer the light gets. Depending on the LEDs used a 330 can make it quite a lot dimmer. It did to my fender turn signal light which I did not like. Thus when I first had this problem I went to my trusty bin of resistors and keot going down in resistance until it fast blinked again and then went back up. 100 worked for me.
Resistors are like 10 cents each. I would get the following to try:
100, 150, 220, 330 (all very common). Start with the 100 and go up. If the light you add it too is too dim, try it on a different light. Some LED strips depending on the LEDs inside, can be effected and thus get dimmer than others.


Bill, et al, the gauge you see is the voltage gauge I added a while back. See this post:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ght=volt+gauge

Bob