Oil change, Engine light, Fault codes...

[sinkhole]

Yesterday I changed the oil in my RT and while doing the two step fill procedure I noticed the "check engine light stayed lit. After the final quart was added, and the RT restarted, I got the orange flashing engine and limp-mode lights, but NO oil warning light. When I checked the codes I got a P0000, and P0524 code. The P0524 is a "low oil pressure" code, but I can't find any mention of the P0000 code.

Today I ran through the oil pressure switch tests and found the following.
Engine off, master switch off, pin to ground = .4 ohms
Engine off, master switch on, pin to ground = 2.3 ohms
Engine running, pin to ground = 1+ ohms
Engine running, wire to ground, oil warning light on. Wire ungrounded, light off.

What I'm wondering is, if the oil pressure is in fact low, why doesn't the oil warning also come on.
The fact that the pin to ground when the engine is running does not light the oil warning light puzzles me too.

Any ideas???

[arntufun]

Backwards (I'm not sure if it's possible or not) or bad oil Filter ?????? Only a guess............. Good luck tracking the problem down.

[sinkhole]

I thought of that also, but before I drop $50 worth of oil I thought I'd ask for some expert advice. The filter can only go in one way, and it appeared to be normal when I installed it. The oil pressure switch not lighting also has me puzzled.

[NancysToy]

P0000 means no active faults. The low oil pressure fault will not reset until you run the engine above 3,000 rpm for about 15 seconds. Ride it down the street and your troubles should be over. If the fault persists, the oil pressure switch should be replaced. It is a known flaw.

[sinkhole]

Scotty and Doc, Thanks for the info... I'll give it a try in the a.m.
I also rechecked the EOP and the light does come on when the circuit is grounded. Hopefully it was just an anomaly that triggered the code.

[NancysToy]

The problem is that the switch clears properly after being triggered upon startup after an oil change, but the code doesn't clear in the computer immediately. The work-around is the cure. It should not be necessary, but it works. A weak switch can also cause trouble, especially in combination with a wet/oily connector or a few shorted strands of wire. It takes very little continuity to trigger the warning.

[jerpinoy]

Good stuff again.everyday I learned so much.

[BajaRon]

This is a common problem with some RT's. The Low Oil Pressure trigger is set to come on too soon. When you change oil you always run for a few seconds with zero oil pressure, then a little longer with low oil pressure. Not a problem. You're supposed to change oil on a 'Hot' engine. This means oil has recently been circulated to all parts.

With no load on the engine and oil having been recently circulated it doesn't hurt to have zero pressure for a short period of time.

But with some RT's these low oil pressure codes are set to trigger too soon.

I had one customer who had this issue. They called their dealer (90 minutes away). They were told to hall the Spyder to them on a trailer. They then said the problem was that they used 'Faulty' oil filters (aftermarket). They charged them for a full oil/filter change and for new spark plugs (which they were never asked or informed of - still not sure why).

These customers were very upset with me (they purchased the filters from me). The whole senerio was bogus and I'm sure the dealer knew about this low oil pressure at oil change issue. All they had to do was run the engine over 3,000 RPM for 15-20 seconds and all would have been fine.

Unfortunately, this customer didn't contact me until all was done. They were so upset after I told them what really happened that they decided to put their Spyder up for sale.

With a good dealership you don't have to worry about these things. But it pays to know more about your Sypder than your dealership.

[sinkhole]

Well, Scotty's work around did the trick. I let the RT warm and ran it down the street above 3000 rpm to the corner. The warning light and limp mode were gone by the time I got there. I'll file this trick in the archives.

[sinkhole]

Ron, After checking all parts, running the EOP continuity tests, and talking to my son... who thought that it might be a "held-over code", Scotty's code clearing procedure did the trick.

[CSW61]

Took my wifes RT in this summer to get serviced before a long riding vacation and they changed the oil like they were being paid for. Engine light came on and they informed me that had a bad sensor. I informed them we were leaving in the morning at 6:00 am and either needed it fixed or a loaner bike. They took a sensor off of one on the show room floor and then called BRP because it was still on. They said the same thing Scotty said. So long story short got a new sensor and left with a gas gauge not working because they screwed up something else when we got home made 3 trips back to this dealership finally got everything working and now the only ones that touch this Spyder is COWTOWN

[BajaRon]

Ron, After checking all parts, running the EOP continuity tests, and talking to my son... who thought that it might be a "held-over code", Scotty's code clearing procedure did the trick.

As the post above states, some of the oil pressure sensors were TOO sensitive. You can get your current switch swapped out but it really isn't necessary. Now that you know it's probably going to throw a code when you change the oil you should be good to go.

And it may not throw a code next time.

This really needs to be general knowledge as I'm sure a fair number of owners have been nipped by this one.

[Rotaxer]

Last season no problems at all, this year when starting (7-10* Celsius) I would get Low Oil message with the limp mode. Being it is a 2010 I found a bulletin saying the 2010 oil pressure sending units suck, so I ordered a new one and installed it and am still getting the same thing. I bought a oil pressure tester and am waiting for a M10x1.0 to 1/8 NPT adapter so I can verify that I have oil pressure, then I will try this method if I have oil pressure to get rid of the code.

At this point I don't know if I have oil pressure, it has less than 10,000 km on it and I have never read anything about no oil pressure with these engines but I certainly want to know what my pressure is.

Also wondering if I have a collapsed oil filter that might be giving me low oil pressure, will check that next if the pressure gauge shows low. Have a couple of each filters from BajaRon, and am going to gets some 10W30 Amsoil.

[NancysToy]

Last season no problems at all, this year when starting (7-10* Celsius) I would get Low Oil message with the limp mode. Being it is a 2010 I found a bulletin saying the 2010 oil pressure sending units suck, so I ordered a new one and installed it and am still getting the same thing. I bought a oil pressure tester and am waiting for a M10x1.0 to 1/8 NPT adapter so I can verify that I have oil pressure, then I will try this method if I have oil pressure to get rid of the code.

At this point I don't know if I have oil pressure, it has less than 10,000 km on it and I have never read anything about no oil pressure with these engines but I certainly want to know what my pressure is.

Also wondering if I have a collapsed oil filter that might be giving me low oil pressure, will check that next if the pressure gauge shows low. Have a couple of each filters from BajaRon, and am going to gets some 10W30 Amsoil.

I take it your Spyder is out of warranty. If not, I'd see your dealer. I'm assuming you ran the engine at 3,500 rpm or more for at least 15 seconds to clear any warning. The BRP programming sometimes requires this. An engine without oil pressure is pretty obvious. Doubt that is the case. Check the connector for stray wire strands, oil or water in the connector, or wire breaks or contacts touching, that would cause a short circuit. I would recommend using the new BRP reinforced filters, or the Hi-Flo filters, and changing oil in accordance with the maintenance schedule. That being said, collapsed filters are very rare if they are installed correctly and changed on schedule, with the proper viscosity oil used.

[Chupaca]

And that was oil change code popping 101: thanks guy learn stuff here every day...!!

[Rotaxer]

I take it your Spyder is out of warranty. If not, I'd see your dealer. I'm assuming you ran the engine at 3,500 rpm or more for at least 15 seconds to clear any warning. The BRP programming sometimes requires this. An engine without oil pressure is pretty obvious. Doubt that is the case. Check the connector for stray wire strands, oil or water in the connector, or wire breaks or contacts touching, that would cause a short circuit. I would recommend using the new BRP reinforced filters, or the Hi-Flo filters, and changing oil in accordance with the maintenance schedule. That being said, collapsed filters are very rare if they are installed correctly and changed on schedule, with the proper viscosity oil used.

Yes Spyder is out of BRP warrantee but I have 4 years with another company. I thought the old sending unit was bad so when I changed it with new one and still had the same symptoms, I thought there was a chance that there is no oil pressure so I definitely haven't and won't rev to 3,000 rpm for 15-20 seconds. Connection is good and dry and wiring is good. I am hoping the old sending set the code and it is still lingering there in the ecm and after verifying oil pressure I will do the code clear stated above, and keep my fingers crossed. I don't have the oil light on and I have tried grounding it and light comes on ungrounded light goes off.

[Rotaxer]

After verifying that I have lots of oil pressure I have done this procedure and the "Low Oil" and Limp mode are gone! Thanks all!

[Knipper]

[QUOTE=Rotaxer;596777]After verifying that I have lots of oil pressure I have done this procedure and the "Low Oil" and Limp mode are gone! Thanks all![/QUO

Been having a problem with oil warning light coming on with my Can Am SE5 spyder, at first it was coming on after going 5 miles at 50 mph. Then after reading the post I realized I had a little too much oil so I drained 1/4 quart. Now the oil light comes on at low idle. Otherwise the bike runs fine. I tried checking for a code with pushing the mode button and clicking the light selector switch, but nothing happens. Any help would be greatly appreciated. One more thing the bike has only 1,000 miles on it since the last oil change. I am using AMSOIL 10-40W Synthetic motorcycle oil. The filter came directly from the dealership.

Is it okay to ride the bike with oil light on at low idle. the engine sounds great and coolant temp is normal.

[bruiser]

[QUOTE=Knipper;802682]

After verifying that I have lots of oil pressure I have done this procedure and the "Low Oil" and Limp mode are gone! Thanks all![/QUO

Been having a problem with oil warning light coming on with my Can Am SE5 spyder, at first it was coming on after going 5 miles at 50 mph. Then after reading the post I realized I had a little too much oil so I drained 1/4 quart. Now the oil light comes on at low idle. Otherwise the bike runs fine. I tried checking for a code with pushing the mode button and clicking the light selector switch, but nothing happens. Any help would be greatly appreciated. One more thing the bike has only 1,000 miles on it since the last oil change. I am using AMSOIL 10-40W Synthetic motorcycle oil. The filter came directly from the dealership.

Is it okay to ride the bike with oil light on at low idle. the engine sounds great and coolant temp is normal.

Did you check the oil level per the manual? Checking for codes: with key on and screen in run mode, push in mode/set switch and turn signal switch at same time. That will bring up any codes.

[nzspyder]

HI everyone From NZ, and just picked up a mint '11 RS with just 3 thou on the clock. Great machine. Problem though - PO520 shows on the digital screen.. please check engine.
Taken it to Can Am mechanic who told me what the fault code was. Oil pressure is excellent.. at idle psi is 50, and at 5000rpm psi is 50, so well within ranges from what i understand.
Mechanic reckons this code PO520 is very rare and its already cost $300 , and getting absolutely nowhere. His one positive thought wads to run a new length of wire next the sensor wire and cut inot it and merge, so as to possibly bypass any wire damage. Next option he said was to get into the pcu etc - all with no real enthusiasm that he knows what he's doing.
Is it safe for me to run the bike with this fault code? When the bike first starts, the code comes up. TUrn it off and start again, the code disappears - this he thought was also very strange as he's not seen it before. Just bought the bike and it seems to have logged this fault now 88 times. Just had oil change and new filter last week. Thoughts????? Reading these posts, wow.. so much knowledge! They're fabulous bikes huh.. and I think I'm already converted from 2 wheels

[Rd_Runner]

HI everyone From NZ, and just picked up a mint '11 RS with just 3 thou on the clock. Great machine. Problem though - PO520 shows on the digital screen.. please check engine.
Taken it to Can Am mechanic who told me what the fault code was. Oil pressure is excellent.. at idle psi is 50, and at 5000rpm psi is 50, so well within ranges from what i understand.
Mechanic reckons this code PO520 is very rare and its already cost $300 , and getting absolutely nowhere. His one positive thought wads to run a new length of wire next the sensor wire and cut inot it and merge, so as to possibly bypass any wire damage. Next option he said was to get into the pcu etc - all with no real enthusiasm that he knows what he's doing.
Is it safe for me to run the bike with this fault code? When the bike first starts, the code comes up. TUrn it off and start again, the code disappears - this he thought was also very strange as he's not seen it before. Just bought the bike and it seems to have logged this fault now 88 times. Just had oil change and new filter last week. Thoughts????? Reading these posts, wow.. so much knowledge! They're fabulous bikes huh.. and I think I'm already converted from 2 wheels

Earlier posts in this thread provided the circuit path resistances.
If you know how to use an Ohm meter, I would check the resistance of the harness on your bike against the above post. If they are similar, then the harness isn't the problem and do not let your mechanic splice in new wiring as it wont solve anything. If you get to this point (wiring harness ohms out good) the problem is most likely the oil pressure switch.

Good luck with your !

- Mike

[Greybeard2]

P0000 means no active faults. The low oil pressure fault will not reset until you run the engine above 3,000 rpm for about 15 seconds. Ride it down the street and your troubles should be over. If the fault persists, the oil pressure switch should be replaced. It is a known flaw.

Just wanted to say thanks. I had the same trouble on my wife's 2010 Spyder RT. Changed oil and when started oil light went out but bike flashed limp mode screen with with check engine light flashing. I asked the dealer mechanic how to reset and he said the only way he knew was to let them do it,$45. He suggested I look on the net for a solution.
I read your solution and gave it a try and now all is well.

[finless]

I know this is an old post that got resurrected, but I have changed my oil 3 times now and never had this issue. But I have a 2011 RTS so maybe this sensor thing is old now and not a problem?

Anyway good to have read this in case it ever happens to me.

Thanks Scotty! Another thing to stick in the grab bag of goodies you have provided over the years and I have basically written a book of your tips since I have owned mine!

Bob

[dartex]

on my new f3s the oil light will test every time I turn on the ignition switch,plus all the other system tests,after that no oil pressure light on the panel.dealer said that was normal!!!!my way of thinking is the light should be on when the engine is NOT running, why no oil pressure,then when you start as oil pressure increases light goes out.so go too the owners manual page 99 this after an oil change, ensure oil pressure warning lamp goes out within 5seconds so does this only happen after an oil change or should the light be on any time the engine is not running with no oil pressure? thank you

[Bob Denman]

If the ignition switch is on, and the engine ain't runnin'; you're gonna see that warning light!
Perfectly normal!