i am am in the midst of a move cross country. I have a alumna TK1 trailer and will be using it the move the F3. It was designed as a trike trailer and has a wheel chock up front. I don't know if it would be better to back it in to take advantage of the chock or not...
I have looked in the manual and didn't see any suggested tie down points. Does anyone have recommendations ?
.
Mark
Last edited by Nyparrothead; 05-11-2015 at 07:06 AM.
In the manual for my RT; it says to put the straps through the wheels.
Have your anchor points right in front of each front tire, and a nice wide Vee in the rear.
At the rear of the bike; be careful around the sprocket, AND the rear brake caliper!
I'm surprised that they don't have information about this in your manual; they've always been pretty specific about using this method.
Before anchoring the Spyder backwards I would check it (in the trailer) for balance and tongue weight.
I do not like to tie down motorcycles -Spyders -etc. by any place except the wheels - no load on the suspension and not apt to move due to a bad bump.
It is your trailer so you can add (if you want to ) stationary stops in the front and go from there. Be sure to pad the wheels where the straps pass thru'.
My thoughts,
Tip
This is no BS....I've trailered and trucked to Spyderfest twice 3000 miles round trip each time. The only tie-down I have used was a single Heavy Duty Rachet strap put over the rear tire ( in line with the tire ) , with the strap secured in the front and back of the rear tire. I lower the tire pressure by 1/2 and rachet it tight. I was in a serious accident and the Spyder never moved ......That Strap cost me about $5.00......Nothing touches the paint , nothing can bend and suspension parts etc. and it takes me about 10 minutes or less to secure. I rarely have to add tension............You can spend a lot more but the Spyder won't be any better secured.......You can't spend any less............Mike
you should be able to make new tie down points on your trailer. Now I think your only issue will be that front single if your on forwards. You may have to remove it to avoid damage to the front end. If backward, depending on how big a windshield you should remove it for the trip.
Gene and Ilana De Laney Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
I have trailered mine many times without incident.
Tie the 2 front wheels through the wheel to the frame of the trailer in front of the wheel with a soft strap ratchet. Was told by the dealer to angle the front straps outward on the trailer. Do not do this. Straight forward is right.
Tie the rear through the wheel with a soft strap straight back to the trailer frame under the ramp. After adding Hitch to miss mud flap, I use the wider v method acroos the back. Works fine.
I do use a cloth on the rear wheel placing it between the strap and the wheel.
Ratchet snug and check periodically.
2016 RTS Special Triple Black, BRP Freedom Trailer, Spyder Pops Rear Lighting Kit, Spyder Pops Full view Turn Signals, Trunk Light, Rivco Highway Pegs. Doc's Spring Tensioners, Trunk Organizer, Magic Mirrors, Foam Grips, back to Stock Windsheild, Lamonsters cat delete, Bajaron sway bar, More Farkles to come !!
After Trailering the Spyder severial times I was never able to avoid scuff marks on the rims no matter how well I padded them.
I went with the over the wheel method as promoted by Mike, only I tie down all three wheels. If you have the CASH the Superclamp for Spyders is another way to go, This would be my first choice for all the reasons mentioned in there ad.
After Trailering the Spyder severial times I was never able to avoid scuff marks on the rims no matter how well I padded them.
I went with the over the wheel method as promoted by Mike, only I tie down all three wheels. If you have the CASH the Superclamp for Spyders is another way to go, This would be my first choice for all the reasons mentioned in there ad.
Frank, I was looking at your PIC and I couldn't tell if the floor bracket was bolted or screwed DOWN..........I'm sure it / they are BOLTED ........Right ... Because I wouldn't trust screws into wood ........I actually have a 3/8 th welded " EYE " bolt at the front thru the floor into a plate , in the rear it is a custom Hook welded onto the wheel cradle that is bolted to the truck frame..........I got this idea from looking at what " U-HAUL " has for people who rent the 2 wheel car towing devices....their straps are more complicated but you have lots more room in a car wheel-well than we do.....+ our Spyder"s don't weigh 4000 + lbs......Mike
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 05-11-2015 at 03:42 PM.
Superclamp's Spyder Tie down is specifically designed and intended for securing Can Am spyders down to trailers. They do not hurt Laser wheel alignments and do not damage A-arms or shocks. http://www.superclamp.net/superclamp_spyder.asp
Originally Posted by Frank G
After Trailering the Spyder severial times I was never able to avoid scuff marks on the rims no matter how well I padded them.
I went with the over the wheel method as promoted by Mike, only I tie down all three wheels. If you have the CASH the Superclamp for Spyders is another way to go, This would be my first choice for all the reasons mentioned in there ad.
Superclamp's Spyder Tie down is specifically designed and intended for securing Can Am spyders down to trailers. They do not hurt Laser wheel alignments and do not damage A-arms or shocks.
.......But the ONLY difference between the Superclamp & my $ 5.00 rachet strap.......is I have $ 495.00 to spend on Gas or food or booze or charity or whatever........Mike
After Trailering the Spyder severial times I was never able to avoid scuff marks on the rims no matter how well I padded them.
I went with the over the wheel method as promoted by Mike, only I tie down all three wheels. If you have the CASH the Superclamp for Spyders is another way to go, This would be my first choice for all the reasons mentioned in there ad.
.......But the ONLY difference between the Superclamp & my $ 5.00 rachet strap.......is I have $ 495.00 to spend on Gas or food or booze or charity or whatever........Mike
I would not trust $5.00 rachet straps on the front of my 20-30K Spyder, you have a chance of taking your alignment out on the front, as well as rubbing the powder coat off your rims, damaging your A-arms or shocks, etc, and yes your right, you can spend $495.00 on gas, food and booze, then you can spend another $495 + to fix your rims or alignment, A-arms or shocks if you damage them.
Last edited by Superclamp; 05-12-2015 at 10:21 AM.
.......But the ONLY difference between the Superclamp & my $ 5.00 rachet strap.......is I have $ 495.00 to spend on Gas or food or booze or charity or whatever........Mike
I do not understand jeopardizing damage to your $25000 Spyder for a $470 kick azz tie-down. A detachable backrest is over $500, a sport rack is over $400. The Superclamp Spyder tie-downs are simply the safest, easiest way to transport a Spyder. Honestly, straps through the rims or over a-arms is not good for the alignment. How do your rims look after trailering a few times with straps running through them? And we have not even talked about the rear suspension and premature shock damage.
I would not trust $5.00 rachet straps on the front of my 20-30K Spyder, you have a chance of taking your alignment out on the front, as well as rubbing the powder coat off your rims, damaging your A-arms or shocks, etc, and yes your right, you can spend $495.00 on gas, food and booze, then you can spend another $495 + to fix your rims or alignment, A-arms or shocks if you damage them.
Dear Sir, I don't put it on the front tires......The strap I use is rated at 3000 lb break strength........And could please explain how preventing your wheel and tire from moving ( any amount ) can possibly damage the RIMS and / or ALIGNMENT..............I and others would be very interested in your explaination...................Anxiously waiting your reply .....Mike
I do not understand jeopardizing damage to your $25000 Spyder for a $470 kick azz tie-down. A detachable backrest is over $500, a sport rack is over $400. The Superclamp Spyder tie-downs are simply the safest, easiest way to transport a Spyder. Honestly, straps through the rims or over a-arms is not good for the alignment. How do your rims look after trailering a few times with straps running through them? And we have not even talked about the rear suspension and premature shock damage.
.....Dear Sir : Before you start chastising me about what I Do / DID you need to read my original POST # 7.........you are confusing me with what someone else does ! ! !.............I don't do ANYTHING you have said I do.................Thank you ......Mike
Dear Sir, I don't put it on the front tires......The strap I use is rated at 3000 lb break strength........And could please explain how preventing your wheel and tire from moving ( any amount ) can possibly damage the RIMS and / or ALIGNMENT..............I and others would be very interested in your explaination...................Anxiously waiting your reply .....Mike
Because of where you plan to tie down from and how you tie it down, can cause a lot of problems, 1. example is if you run your strap through the rims and place a cloth around the rim first to prevent the strap from rubbing, as you start your travels, it is fact, tie down straps loosen, and then the cloth works its way out and your strap then rubs the powder coating raw (Fact: we have heard this from many Spyder lovers in North America). 2. The way some trailer manufactures put their tie down points on the corners of their trailers, Some Spyder owner have no choice but to tie down thought the rims and pull tight to the opposite corners (Towing out the wheels) and now they are taking the alignment out. BRP Manual suggest you to tie down through your rims, everyone ties there Spyders down differently also, when you use a Spyder Tie down system there is only 1 way, and there is no wrong way, and lessens the chance of you tying it down the wrong way and possible damage that may occur.
Last edited by Superclamp; 05-12-2015 at 12:15 PM.
Because of where you plan to tie down from and how you tie it down, can cause a lot of problems, 1. example is if you run your strap through the rims and place a cloth around the rim first to prevent the strap from rubbing, as you start your travels, it is fact, tie down straps loosen, and then the cloth works its way out and your strap then rubs the powder coating raw (Fact: we have heard this from many Spyder lovers in North America). 2. The way some trailer manufactures put their tie down points on the corners of their trailers, Some Spyder owner have no choice but to tie down thought the rims and pull tight to the opposite corners (Towing out the wheels) and now they are taking the alignment out. BRP Manual suggest you to tie down through your rims, everyone ties there Spyders down differently also, when you use a Spyder Tie down system there is only 1 way, and there is no wrong way, and lessens the chance of you tying it down the wrong way and possible damage that may occur.
If you read my posts # 7 & 17 you will see you are talking to the wrong person on this ( try TexAmRider Post on this topic ) ........I don't do it the way you are referring to.......Mike
Superclamp is the vendor so it is expected that he will extoll the virtues of his product. I would too.
The strap over the back tire makes sense to me. Is there a way to put 2 straps directly over the rear tire? I hate the thought of a single point of failure!
How does tieing down through the front rims ruin an alignment? I'm sure that is a lot less stress than driving down the road...On a trailer,there are no parts being bent or worn out to change an alignment...Pulling on the straps would change the alignment as it sits on the trailer,but once the suspension was bounced,it would revert back to before you strapped it down..What am I missing here?..As far as tieing down on the body and people saying your suspension shouldn't be ratcheted down,all new cars are transported to the dealers with suspensions chained down and tires over inflated,and those suspensions aren't bouncing while being transported, and they aren't being damaged...
Tie down points
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be careful around the sprocket, AND the rear brake caliper!
Originally Posted by Frank G
.......But the ONLY difference between the Superclamp & my $ 5.00 rachet strap.......is I have $ 495.00 to spend on Gas or food or booze or charity or whatever........Mike 
.....Dear Sir : Before you start chastising me about what I Do / DID you need to read my original POST # 7.........you are confusing me with what someone else does ! ! !.............I don't do ANYTHING you have said I do.................Thank you ......Mike 
