Winter storage questions

[92lt]

Now that snow is here, I'll be putting the spyder away till spring. Couple questions: Should I put the spyder up on jack stands, or leave it on the ground? Also, does anything need to be done to the fuel system besides gas stabilizer?

[BeRight]

I plan to winterize mine next week per owners manual, as well as putting up on jack stands-for cleaning and mods. Not sure how to do rear end yet-front seems easy. I use seafoam added to last tank of gas and top off tank with gas seafoam mixture.

[bone crusher]

Winterize the bike? I'm leaving mine where it is and will turn it on and run it weekly to be sure it still works...if there is a break in the weather and we get above 50, I'll take it for a ride...

Too bad there isn't a snow plow for it!

[DragonSpyder]

You want to make sure you can ride it if you are going to start it up. Otherwise, moisture can build up in your motor. At least that is what I have read...

[bone crusher]

Interesting point...it's in the garage...and there should be enough air exchange to allow for drying...

I have a freezer/fridge in there that certainly circulates air, plus my dog insists on going out a lot..meaning, the doors are always opening and closing...

[NancysToy]

Winterize the bike? I'm leaving mine where it is and will turn it on and run it weekly to be sure it still works...if there is a break in the weather and we get above 50, I'll take it for a ride...

If you are going to start your engine periodically, you need to get it up to full operating temperature, and let it stay there long enough to get the oil to full temperature, too. Then you need to keep it running long enough to evaporate any moisture that has condensed in the oil. If the garage is heated, there is less liklihood of condenstaion, but any unheated garage will have moisture, which unfortunately condenses more and more easily as the temperature drops. Better to not run it at all, than to start it for a brief time. It is like the fact that short trips are harder on a car than highway driving. Similar reason.

I winterize most of my collection. I have learned the hard way what the alternative brings. I do not fully mothball my modern BMW and the Spyder I just plug in the charger, stabilize the fuel and top the tank. This has worked well for me for several years now. Like you, I hope to sneak in a few rides now and then, although this early winter with the drive already ice and snow may make that impossible. Still, I wouldn't think of starting them needlessly, unless I can ride them to thoroughly heat them up, and get the oil splashed over the innards again. It is your decision, but 50 years of motorcycles, and 23 in the garage right now, makes me leery of your plan. I will keep my fingers crossed for you.
-Scotty

[HotWheels]

I read this post because this is my first motorcycle and since it means so much to me I don’t want to have it mess up before I really get to do the miles on it that I want to do for the summer. I have a new storage shed coming in just for my baby I have on a jack now with two ramps for the front wheels so that when it rains noting hits the wheels I have the tender plus perminate cables put in for the charging and the outdoor cover till the shed gets here. My question I have is what is “top the tank” and “stabilize the fuel”. I saw in the beginning of the post to use gas seafoam mixture. What are these things and which is the best product to use I really love my bike and I wanted it to last for as long as I do.

[frleo]

Scotty's points are valuable and important. I am posting to just further emphasize a point. The REAL ENEMY of internal combustion motors is moisture.
If you run a motor and don't get it hot enough to evaporate the moisture, you will promote RUST in nasty places. I have seen this happen in motorcycles, airplanes, ATV's and tractors.
If you're not going to run the motor for some time, you need to take the necessary precautions to get as much of the motor lubricated as possible. I use MYSTERY OIL as it leaves a film on bearings and moving parts and keeps rust away.
FILL THE FUEL TANK and add a stabilizer. Any open space in the tank will allow moisture to accumulate. I use STABILE, but there are many other additives that will fight moisture and keep the fuel as fresh as possible.
This might be overkill, but personally, I change the oil and drain and refill the fuel tank when taking the machine out of storage.
Take precautions and avoid costly engine overhauls.

---leo---

[jeuchler]

...My question I have is what is “top the tank” ...

Fill it to the top to minimize condensation of water on the otherwise air-exposed walls of the tank. (Oops-Sorry frleo, I read it now...you just said that!)

...and “stabilize the fuel”. I saw in the beginning of the post to use gas seafoam mixture. What are these things and which is the best product to use...

They look like this:

[NancysToy]

I read this post because this is my first motorcycle and since it means so much to me I don’t want to have it mess up before I really get to do the miles on it that I want to do for the summer. I have a new storage shed coming in just for my baby I have on a jack now with two ramps for the front wheels so that when it rains noting hits the wheels I have the tender plus perminate cables put in for the charging and the outdoor cover till the shed gets here. My question I have is what is “top the tank” and “stabilize the fuel”. I saw in the beginning of the post to use gas seafoam mixture. What are these things and which is the best product to use I really love my bike and I wanted it to last for as long as I do.

There are probably as many combinations to this as motorcycle/car owners. My procedure is in another thread somewhere, but I'll try to summarize.
1. Get the motorcycle to full operating temperature. Drives off any moisture in the oil, and makes fogging more effective (if done). A ride is best.
2. Change the oil. (Optional)
3. Fill (top off) the fuel tank. Helps keep condensation from forming in the tank. I normally ride to the gas station and get it hot that way, too.
4. Add fuel stabilizer to the fuel. Stabile or Seafoam works well. Easiest to do this before the fill, but can be done after. Directions on container.
5. Pump the tire pressure up to max sidewall ratings. As an alternative, jack it up. Keeps the tires round. I like your ramp idea for outdoor storage. Keeps the dirt from splashing up.
6. Remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil in the hot cylinders. (Optional) BRP's procedure suggests spraying through the intake, instead. Keeps the rust from siezing the pistons.
7. Put the battery on a Battery Tender, Optimate, or Accumate charger. Don't use a conventional charger or cheap trickle charger, it can ruin the battery. This works with sealed batteries like the Spyder. Others, I remove and bring inside.
8. Wax or polish everything with a good polish or car wax. (Optional) Helps keep moisture from affecting the paint and metal. Some say leave it on and wipe off in Spring, but I have had no luck with that.
9. Cover. I would suggest adding a good, silver tarp over the outside cover if left outdoors. Please realize that moisture will collect under the cover no matter what you do, tarp or no tarp. The tarp just helps fight the heavier snow and rain, keeps the sun off, and helps the cover last longer.

Hopefully I didn't forget anything. Easier to do than remember exactly what I do. Multiply that by 23 motorcycles and some collector cars, and you see what I am up against. Takes several days. Just finished yesterday. Too bad we can't just ride all year here in the North.
-Scotty

[sleepman]

All I can say is thank god I live in Florida and the longest any of my bikes has to sit still not being used is while I'm asleep.

[Spydr in KS]

Scotty, thanks for the tips. My dad does the same to put the snowmobiles away for the season. Nice to have the reminder list you put together.

Visiting Kalamazoo and saw a red Spyder out riding yesterday. Hope the road salt doesn't get him!

[92lt]

Has anyone used those things that you screw in place of the spark plugs? They are filled with crystals(?) and are supposed to absorb moisture I think.

[frleo]

I have used those in overhauled aircraft engines that were in storage - but not a motorcycle, etc.