Blue Light Under My Spyder?

[sandeejs]

There are some lights on the other side, just not as bright.
(Sorry, couldn't resist the Joni Mitchel reference)
~Sandee~

Strange that there are lights on one side only.

[sandeejs]

Inside eervry one o dem blu lites iz er ailleins
....If you pet em day wont keel you wen day hatch out

Not scared of aliens; raised 4 boys.
Thanks!
~Sandee~

[pitzerwm]

I found the switch! It's inside the glove box.
Next day off (Tuesday) I'll tow the Spyder to a shop that'll put in a new battery.
It's just aggravating to me that I can't get it done myself. I suppose as time goes by I'll be able to do as much work on the as I did on my former Hondas. IIRC I once took a bike to the shop and told them to loosen all nuts and bolts for me. I also developed a new tool - the "wapping stick" - to help loosen an oil drain plug.

I knew the battery would be my first problem, and there it is!

~Sandee~

Those lights might have made the battery dead, but not kill it. Did you charge it up? There is no reason you can't replace the battery yourself and find it cheaper than the dealer. There is a video here someplace and other than the newer ones with the battery in front, the one on the side isn't a pain unless you have to remove the saddlebag on that side.

[Bob Denman]

Glad to hear that the "Missing Switch" has been found...
Here's to hoping that it's the last problem that you have!

[sandeejs]

There is no reason you can't replace the battery yourself and find it cheaper than the dealer. There is a video here someplace and other than the newer ones with the battery in front, the one on the side isn't a pain unless you have to remove the saddlebag on that side.

I set about removing the panels for pulling the battery the other day, but got hung up on the mirror removal. I'll squirt some silicone spray on the attachment and try again tomorrow. Failing that, I'll go to the shop.
I did try to resuscitate said battery, with my Battery tender Jr, No joy, even after 8 hours on the tender.

Here is the sad part. My first Spyder issue was a stuck frunk. I tried for a day to release it, to no avail. So I rode over the shop that I used to take my bike to. Couldn't help, as he doesn't work on Spyders due to lack of room. They asked what I did with my Honda.
"Traded it in. For a $1,700 credit", says I.
"They gave you a credit on that bike!?!!?!" says Mr. Mechanic.
"It ran OK and stopped when I wanted it to. You thought I should pay them to take it?" asks I.
Shrug from Mr. Mechanic.

So then I took the Spyder to Rosenau Power Sports, where they unstuck the frunk and told me they suspected it had been crashed in it's past life. But they unstuck the sucker and DID NOT CHARGE ME! They also made me another key (charged for that).

Fast forward to me calling Rosenau to see if I need an appointment for a battery change. Before I say what scoot and who I am, the tech recognizes my voice.

Now I have a reputation, I guess.

~Sandee~

[Bob Denman]

Most damage to the keyhole clips comes from improper or overly physical removal of the mirrors. I have never broken a clip on two RT's, although the mirrors have been removed frequently. To remove without damage I recommend the following:
1. Place one hand at the back of the mirror near the outer edge of the glass. This hand should apply light pressure toward the front to keep you from moving the mirror to far and breaking the clip.
2. With the other hand, rap against the front puter edge to pop the front spring clip loose. I describe the force of the hit as "firm, but gentle". A sharp, short rap is all you need. Do not tug or push, and be sure to resist with the other hand.
3. Move the backup hand to the top outer portion of the housing.
4. From underneath, rap upward with the other hand to pop the lower spring clip loose.
5. Gently lift straight up on the mirror assembly, about 1/2", then pull outward to slip the latch pin from the keyhole clip.
6. Pull the wires from inside the console until the wiring connector is clear of the body. An untrimmed wire tie on the cable will prevent the connector from falling back inside, when it too is pulled clear of the body.
7. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to straighten the spring clips before you reinstall, so they are straight and parallel. Lightly lubing the latch pins helps, too.


INSTALLATION:
First, make sure the mirror spring wires are straight and parallel. If they are bent inward they may not catch the post, and if they diverge or bend outward, the mirror will be loose. It can help to put a very tiny bit of lube on the outer, conical part of the post only. I'm talking about a film here, not a glob. Make sure there is none on the back side (post notch).
Engage the keyhole slot first. Then rap downward firmly (but politely) on the outer edge of the mirror to seat the bottom latch.
Now rap forward on the outer edge of the mirror to seat the front latch. You can rap a little harder than you can taking the mirrors off, because they won't fly across the room, but don't get carried away. Problems seating the latches are usually caused by bent spring wires.

[cognaccruiser]

Sandeejs,
Some might disagree with me but I really don't think that your Battery Tender Jr will be enough to charge a dead battery in order to get it started, assuming it will take a charge. I think it will need a regular battery charger. Just need to watch the charger and see what is happening with the charge being done. In other words, is it taking a charge.
The Battery Tender is really a maintainer of a healthy battery.

Gary