Results 1 to 18 of 18
  1. #1
    Active Member C3517C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV
    Posts
    206
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Cruise control problem

    This is strange but here it is. Over the past few months I noticed my cruise control (or maybe just the switch itself) was getting finicky. If I tried to step up the speed or drop it down it would usually shut off the cruise. It got a little worse with time. Now I have to ride for about 20 miles before the switch will hold the bike on cruise at all. When I try to turn the cruise on, it will flash the green "on" for a split second, then turn off. Holding it in position for several seconds does not help. However, after about 20 miles of warm up, it works. This makes no sense to me but yet it happens time and time again. I've been testing. Its a 2011 RT-S. I've had it for 4 years and it was fine for the first 3. If anyone has experienced this or has information I would be grateful. Thanks

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Bossier loUiSiAna
    Posts
    3,894
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Switch could very well be a problem but check your rpms if not over 3300 it will not engage, if you shift it will kick out as well few lil quirks I've found out on my '13 anyway, G'luck

  3. #3
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Apex, N.C.
    Posts
    2,002
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    When I first bought my 2014 RT, the cruise would not engage. After about 100 miles, it worked fine. Then, when I took it in for it's 3000 mile service, it stopped working again. After about 100 miles, it worked again. I am not sure if it had something to do with it being put on the computer, and everything having to reset, but I have not had any problems since. Guess I will see what happens when I take it in for it's second service.

  4. #4
    aka: akspyderman ARtraveler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    NW Arkansas
    Posts
    33,907
    Spyder Garage
    6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by blacklightning View Post
    When I first bought my 2014 RT, the cruise would not engage. After about 100 miles, it worked fine. Then, when I took it in for it's 3000 mile service, it stopped working again. After about 100 miles, it worked again. I am not sure if it had something to do with it being put on the computer, and everything having to reset, but I have not had any problems since. Guess I will see what happens when I take it in for it's second service.
    Are you trying to run cruise and Eco Mode at the same time? I don't think they work together.

    Currently Owned: 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium), 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow), 2015 Vulcan 900 LTD

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) Pictures of 2008 and 2009 Spyders are in Alaska Albums 2009 and 2010.
    5 Spyders, 10 years, 145,375 miles


  5. #5
    Very Active Member granpa in Cincy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Cincinnati Ohio
    Posts
    553
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by akspyderman View Post
    Are you trying to run cruise and Eco Mode at the same time? I don't think they work together.

    Yes it does!
    2014 RT S SE6 Cognac. Built on 12/20/13.
    2014 VW EOS 2.0 TSI replaced the RT S 5/22/2017

  6. #6
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Apex, N.C.
    Posts
    2,002
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by granpa in Cincy View Post
    Yes it does!
    What he said. I did use cruise and eco mod in the beginning, but now i never use eco mode. Might use it if I do some interstate riding, but I prefer the 2 lane highways.

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Magdave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    NE South Carolina
    Posts
    3,417
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    My switch did the same thing. Bad switch replaced under warranty.
    2013 Mag Silver SE5 RT BahaRon Sway bar & Sway bar links, Grip Puppies, Kuryakyn Helmet locks , Ultimate Seat w/Utopia Backrest, Dash power outlet, Spyderpops BumpSkid, Swagman Cup holders, Full size Brake Pedal, Seal DLX Floorboards, Freeway Blaster horns, Sylvania Super Bright fender LEDs, Scotchlite 680 Rear & Fender Reflectors, BRP Fog Light Kit, LED Mirror turn signal strips, 2014 RT grille mod. Outlaw Laser Alignment




  8. #8
    Very Active Member Deanna777's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    6,070
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by blacklightning View Post
    When I first bought my 2014 RT, the cruise would not engage. After about 100 miles, it worked fine. Then, when I took it in for it's 3000 mile service, it stopped working again. After about 100 miles, it worked again. I am not sure if it had something to do with it being put on the computer, and everything having to reset, but I have not had any problems since. Guess I will see what happens when I take it in for it's second service.
    I bought my(first spyder) 2012RTS-SE5 the cruise control did not work right from the get-go, even the guy at the dealership could not get the cruise control to work. Since then I have traded up to a 2014RTS-SE6. Good luck with the cruise control. Deanna
    2014RTS-SE6 Cognac I am a Happy Spyder Owner!

    BRP Semi-Rigid Rear Side Cargo Travel Bags
    BRP Glove Box Organizer
    Ron-rnet Laser Alignment
    TRIC-LED Spyderpockets
    STV Black Carbon Fiber Windshield Blackout
    WRAPMYSPYDER.COM Sceptor Kit Reflective Decals-Orange
    painted Dashboard+ GPS plug-in
    BRP Half Cover
    WRAPMYSPYDER.COM Air Dam Web Decal Black Reflective
    General Altimax RT 43 Rear tire
    BRP Full cover
    TRIC-LEDS Front Fender Marker Lights & Saddlebag Markers Lights





  9. #9
    Active Member C3517C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV
    Posts
    206
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Update

    Well, I took the handlebar assembly off and poked around in there as best as I could. I couldn't see anything that looked broken or wrong. I then reassembled and figured I would take it to the dealer. As soon as I started riding it I found that it now works ! I must be a mechanical genius ! Sometimes taking something apart and putting it back together works. It doesn't make sense but I'll take it.

  10. #10
    Active Member Craniac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Roswell NM
    Posts
    374
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    There are two springs in the back of the switch. One just holds the switch in the on/off position. You can feel the spring move when you slide the switch from off to on.
    The other spring is actually pushes the "on" switch. If the spring is too weak, the cruise may not stay on.

    This is what the switch looks like. This was my first attempt at making mine work. The spring was not strong enough to hold the "On" part of the switch. I later changed to a stronger spring and a BB. Now my cruise works great.

    Here is the actual electronic portion of the cruise switch. It is the white pad approx 2"x1" above my hand. The larger white dot (left center) is the "on" button. The spring/BB simply pushes the button. When the cruise is set to "on" the BB pokes through the hole in the black piece in my hand. When you rock the switch up or down, the BB moves a little. If the spring is not strong enough it won't push the contact that is inside the white panel and the cruise turns off. It must have pressure all the time the cruise is on.
    The two smaller dots to the right side are the speed up and down buttons. In the first picture you can see two little ears on the right side of the black plastic piece. When the switch rocks, it presses one of the buttons. These only require momentary contact.

    So, your spring is too weak or the black rocker assembly is not screwed in the whole way. It will not get better.

  11. #11
    Active Member Spyder2012's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Oklahoma City, OK
    Posts
    36
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default My Experience 2012 RTS M5 Cruise Control

    Just before the end of my factory warranty, I noticed my kill switch, which had always been slow to engage failed to kill the engine. I had questioned a delay in this switch since I owned it, and the dealer, of course, said this was normal. BS. I had the entire right switch assembly replaced under warranty, and riding home from the dealer, the cruise would switch to off, and not engage. The day this happened the weather was cold and wet, and so was I. I turned around to go back to dealer, and mysteriously, the cruise started working, so I went home to dry out and warm up, thinking this might have been just some packing material or the like in the new control module. Two weeks later, after a couple of short rides, the cruise would not stay on, just a brief flash of the on light. The dealer checked it out, and found the cruise switch was bad, and contacted Can Am, who refused to replace the new switch, since the spyder was now 24 months and two weeks old. Finally, after me personally sending emails, and making calls to Can Am, the situation was elevated to a level 2 tech, and it was replaced as a "good will" matter.
    Short story is, the cruise switch is weak on spyders. I like the post where the guts of the switch were taken out and user repaired. Yours may be repairable in this manner. Some owners never seem to have problem, and I think these controls are just a bit under engineered.
    Wish I had the technical expertise to fix this, and other problems I have had with mine, but, I am a bit leery of doing my own thing on this machine due to the complexity of it.

    Wish Can Am would step up and provide more quality in the manufacture of these, as they are not inexpensive toys, and, in my estimation, should be more dependable for the dollars they cost.

  12. #12
    Active Member C3517C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV
    Posts
    206
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Thank You Crainiac and Spyder2012. Those are both great pieces of information, and seem to be the exact problem I'm facing. I'm sure my temporary "fix" will be short lived and I will have to switch the switch.

  13. #13
    SpyderLovers Sponsor SpyderAnn01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Las Vegas
    Posts
    12,509
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I never turn my cruise control off. It does no harm in leaving it on and I've never had a problem in over 100,00 Spyder miles. A quick tap of the brake will take it off SET and back to ON.

    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
    2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
    2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
    2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
    2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
    2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
    2010 RT- 622

  14. #14
    Very Active Member finless's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Stanton, ca
    Posts
    4,901
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01 View Post
    I never turn my cruise control off. It does no harm in leaving it on and I've never had a problem in over 100,00 Spyder miles. A quick tap of the brake will take it off SET and back to ON.
    Same here. It's never off.

    Bob
    2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
    Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
    Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come

  15. #15
    Active Member CherryBomb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Wickes, Arkansas
    Posts
    55
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Cruise

    Same here, I always leave mine on.

    Quote Originally Posted by finless View Post
    Same here. It's never off.

    Bob

  16. #16
    Active Member Spyder2012's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Oklahoma City, OK
    Posts
    36
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Craniac View Post
    There are two springs in the back of the switch. One just holds the switch in the on/off position. You can feel the spring move when you slide the switch from off to on.
    The other spring is actually pushes the "on" switch. If the spring is too weak, the cruise may not stay on.

    This is what the switch looks like. This was my first attempt at making mine work. The spring was not strong enough to hold the "On" part of the switch. I later changed to a stronger spring and a BB. Now my cruise works great.

    Here is the actual electronic portion of the cruise switch. It is the white pad approx 2"x1" above my hand. The larger white dot (left center) is the "on" button. The spring/BB simply pushes the button. When the cruise is set to "on" the BB pokes through the hole in the black piece in my hand. When you rock the switch up or down, the BB moves a little. If the spring is not strong enough it won't push the contact that is inside the white panel and the cruise turns off. It must have pressure all the time the cruise is on.
    The two smaller dots to the right side are the speed up and down buttons. In the first picture you can see two little ears on the right side of the black plastic piece. When the switch rocks, it presses one of the buttons. These only require momentary contact.

    So, your spring is too weak or the black rocker assembly is not screwed in the whole way. It will not get better.
    My question is if these springs can be changed and/or upgraded. This is great information, and I had forgotten about this until the most recent issue with my speed control began, and it is getting worse. Interesting that the speed will set when holding the resume/accel position for a few seconds. However the set/decel kills the control and it shows OFF on the lower left of the display panel on the dash.

  17. #17
    Very Active Member 4 MARIE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Beloit Kansas
    Posts
    814
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ARtraveler View Post
    Are you trying to run cruise and Eco Mode at the same time? I don't think they work together.
    IT works fine with ECO mode.
    Flatlander, Navy Veteran, Widower
    Loved my 2014 RTS SE6 Pearl white
    but have a new love now,
    my 2017 RTS SE6 Champagne metallic (Champ)

  18. #18
    Active Member Spyder2012's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Oklahoma City, OK
    Posts
    36
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Well, I got brave and took the right control module apart to get inside.
    I was able to get the control working again by stretching the springs when I had them out.
    I am sure there is wear on the contacts as well, but, that little white circuit board is not replaceable.
    Hoping to find springs as these are probably weak, and the contacts on the white circuit board possibly worn as well.
    I have not yet been able to find replacement springs for this project, but stainless steel balls, or BB's are available, although I had to buy an assortment to get the ones I did need, but only a few bucks on ebay.
    Taking photos of these as you go helps to remember how to re fit it all. I had no extra hands and could not manage a video or step by step photos.
    Please note that these internal parts are NOT available from BRP, so be VERY careful not to lose anything, screws, stainless steel balls and springs. I am sure they are available somewhere, but not in my area. As previously stated, I did order a stainless steel ball bearing assortment from EBay and was glad I did as one of the little ball bearings got away in the disassembly/reassembly process.
    Tricky since the right hand controls cannot be easily disconnected from the bike. Battery should probably be disconnected as well.
    Note the kill switch must be in the OFF position for all of this to come apart well, and the oblong plastic switch cover that you see on the outside of the control must be carefully removed by using a couple of thin bladed screw drivers or similar to pop it off before disassembly.
    The next step is to take out the four torx screws which secure the back cover to the right hand controls. One of them is deeply recessed. Then the cover can be gently removed. Note how the throttle lines up with all of the plastics so that assembly is not a problem.
    Next step is to remove the two screws which secure the control to the handlebar assembly. These are on the back of the assembly and accessible since the back cover has been removed. On my unit, these two screws are brass and screw into brass fittings. There is a washer on each of these which you should save.
    Next, with the controls exposed you will see small torx heads inside. Only the black ones need to be removed. If my memory serves me there are five of them, and a magnet or magnetized screw driver will be a huge help. I do have a photo of this which I will post later.
    Now the fun. On the front of the now released controls, you will see the actual switch mechanism. This is where springs and stainless balls can easily be lost! There are three screws which hold the switch slide and rocker (for set decel, accel resume) are located. Since the entire control is still attached to the bike, I found this a challenge to deal with. Removing these screws will allow the last pieces of this to come apart, and the two springs will be pushing things apart. So carefully remove these screws and do not lose any springs or stainless balls. Using some sort of drop cloth under the work area is helpful.
    While all this was apart, I used an electronic contact cleaner to remove and dirt and or residue. Don't allow the cleaner to get on the paint, it may cause some dulling.
    Once apart, I stretched the springs as much as possible, and began to reassemble. Holding the switch mechanism with the springs and balls together while reattaching the switch slide/rocker mechanism with limited space and fingers was challenging, but, with patience and luck, possible. If the cruise switch is in the OFF position at this time, it helps as that spring and ball are not trying to slip through the hole in the control.
    Then reassemble the switches to the control using the black screws, then reattach the controls to the handlebars being sure to align the throttle stop properly and reattach the back cover.
    It is tedious and tricky, but if I can to it, most anyone can. There are only two sized or torx drivers (the screwdriver type with attached handle and shaft) are best, since some of these screws are recessed.
    My cruise, which would not set (without turning the cruise quickly to OFF) is now working like new. I still hope to find some new stainless or chrome springs to have on hand.
    The right hand control cluster is about $300 from BRP or parts houses, and the wiring harness goes deep within the bike, about five hours labor at a dealer, so this has saved a bunch of money for a few hours of tedious aggravation on my part. Well worth it!
    If I find springs, and repeat this process, will try to have another person to take more photos and post.
    I can not get a photo to upload and attach! Will try again later.switch1.jpg

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •