Although I have done maintenance through the years on my vehicles (all cars) all I have done on my Spyder is just the normal safety checks, check the oil etc. and left the rest to the dealer. How hard is it to do some of the basics, air filter change, oil and oil filter change etc? Do I need a lift of some kind? All I have is a shed I built for my Spyder just for storage not much room to do anything in.
I've done my own maintenance since my local dealer went belly-up as next closest is an 18 hour round trip:-S
I've found it pretty straight forward and not hit any nasty's, certainly no harder than other motorbikes I've owned and simpler than a car.
I use an ATV jack to lift the Spyder to make things easier, though the first service I did was done on the ground.
Only complaint is there are some odd sized bolts etc and a mix of imperial and metric. For example the rear wheel nut is 36mm while the front is some weird imperial measurement.
You can get electronic copies of the workshop manuals cheaply, they are normally advertised on eBay. Mine came from Green Manuals.
There's quite a few videos in the DIY section of this site - I followed one of Lamont's ones the other day when removing my rear wheel ready for a new tire. the ones by this guy are also good: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVy...p6q05rqvSb9skA
Sometimes I add a few more steps than he takes e.g. I use his approach for adjusting my belt but always remove/replace the split pin and torque the wheel nut.
If you wanted to start doing this yourself you could just start with the minor services which are just changing the oil and filter, adjusting the rear brake and inspecting things like fluids, brakes etc. The service pattern is minor/major with a service every 7500km (4660miles). Personally I prefer to do minor/minor/major with a service every 5000km (3100miles) - just like looking after my motorbike engines with good oil.
On the subject of oil - I notice you mention you're used to servicing cars - be very careful if you don't buy the official can-am oil that you get one that's designed for motorbike clutches. If you use normal car oil, even stuff that's otherwise the right grade, you'll muck up your clutch.
There is the BUDs system that you will not be able to tap into. The dealers do connect to this to download updates for your Spyder and check how things are running. For this reason it may be worth getting the occasional service done by the dealer. In my case this isn't an option anyway and as my Spyder is running sweet I don't see it as an issue. I did consider buying a 3rd party BUD's system myself but haven't bothered.
I've done my own maintenance since my local dealer went belly-up as next closest is an 18 hour round trip:-S
I've found it pretty straight forward and not hit any nasty's, certainly no harder than other motorbikes I've owned and simpler than a car.
I use an ATV jack to lift the Spyder to make things easier, though the first service I did was done on the ground.
Only complaint is there are some odd sized bolts etc and a mix of imperial and metric. For example the rear wheel nut is 36mm while the front is some weird imperial measurement.
You can get electronic copies of the workshop manuals cheaply, they are normally advertised on eBay. Mine came from Green Manuals.
There's quite a few videos in the DIY section of this site - I followed one of Lamont's ones the other day when removing my rear wheel ready for a new tire. the ones by this guy are also good: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVy...p6q05rqvSb9skA
Sometimes I add a few more steps than he takes e.g. I use his approach for adjusting my belt but always remove/replace the split pin and torque the wheel nut.
If you wanted to start doing this yourself you could just start with the minor services which are just changing the oil and filter, adjusting the rear brake and inspecting things like fluids, brakes etc. The service pattern is minor/major with a service every 7500km (4660miles). Personally I prefer to do minor/minor/major with a service every 5000km (3100miles) - just like looking after my motorbike engines with good oil.
On the subject of oil - I notice you mention you're used to servicing cars - be very careful if you don't buy the official can-am oil that you get one that's designed for motorbike clutches. If you use normal car oil, even stuff that's otherwise the right grade, you'll muck up your clutch.
There is the BUDs system that you will not be able to tap into. The dealers do connect to this to download updates for your Spyder and check how things are running. For this reason it may be worth getting the occasional service done by the dealer. In my case this isn't an option anyway and as my Spyder is running sweet I don't see it as an issue. I did consider buying a 3rd party BUD's system myself but haven't bothered.
Spot On - I agree
Just would add since you are used to working on cars (as I am), you are well ahead of the curve and the Spyder should not be a problem for you. I have a 2008 Spyder RS and have performed all the maintenance per owners manual and using the online shop manual - just search on ebay - one source and he is very reliable - 100% rating.
For many of the maintenance tasks I use car ramps - which of course lift the front wheels - giving more room to work for some areas.
I also use a car jack (it is low profile and will slide under Spyder) - If I remember correctly there are some old Videos by Lamonster in 2008/9 time frame showing where to place jack - probably other Videos since then, as well as how to adjust belt tension and location/ change oil.
"Spyder Stuff" on youtube has some excellent videos on maintenance for the RS and RT Spyder models.
I have taken my Spyder to the dealer for recalls and clearing of fault codes after I fixed the cause.
Recommend keeping receipts and document your work - in case of a warranty issue
Oh - I did have dealer do clutch work (SM5) - beyond my level of expertise.
2020 RT Ride Frequent Stay Safe
Aftermarket Aux Light, GPS mounting/wiring, Lamonster Garage Mirror Lock, Lamonster Garage Belt Tensioner
Backrest Home Brew Mod
2008 RS from 2008 through 4/2015, 2015 F3-S from 4/2015 through 9/2020
Although I have done maintenance through the years on my vehicles (all cars) all I have done on my Spyder is just the normal safety checks, check the oil etc. and left the rest to the dealer. How hard is it to do some of the basics, air filter change, oil and oil filter change etc? Do I need a lift of some kind? All I have is a shed I built for my Spyder just for storage not much room to do anything in.
Start with 2 ramps to get your front off the ground..Looks like you have an RT model?? In that case you have lots of panels to remove..As you remove them number them (on backside) 1,2,3 etc. when you put back togewther you have the correct order in reverse.. Just did my oil and filters with Orings. Air filter is difficult to get to but it can be done..Good luck..
Numbering those panels is a great idea. I might even take it a step further and put the number of screws that go back in on that part. Shouldn't get them mixed up from each side, but if you have a very small area to lay removed parts in, you might want to mark R or L on them also.
Thanks for this thread. I am a DIY also and want to start doing service work on my Spyder when needed. Like changing oil and brake adjustment etc. little minor things. The major problems and can take to the dealer if i have to. My closest dealer is about 80 miles one way.
I've done my own maintenance since my local dealer went belly-up as next closest is an 18 hour round trip:-S
I've found it pretty straight forward and not hit any nasty's, certainly no harder than other motorbikes I've owned and simpler than a car.
I use an ATV jack to lift the Spyder to make things easier, though the first service I did was done on the ground.
Only complaint is there are some odd sized bolts etc and a mix of imperial and metric. For example the rear wheel nut is 36mm while the front is some weird imperial measurement.
You can get electronic copies of the workshop manuals cheaply, they are normally advertised on eBay. Mine came from Green Manuals.
There's quite a few videos in the DIY section of this site - I followed one of Lamont's ones the other day when removing my rear wheel ready for a new tire. the ones by this guy are also good: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVy...p6q05rqvSb9skA
Sometimes I add a few more steps than he takes e.g. I use his approach for adjusting my belt but always remove/replace the split pin and torque the wheel nut.
If you wanted to start doing this yourself you could just start with the minor services which are just changing the oil and filter, adjusting the rear brake and inspecting things like fluids, brakes etc. The service pattern is minor/major with a service every 7500km (4660miles). Personally I prefer to do minor/minor/major with a service every 5000km (3100miles) - just like looking after my motorbike engines with good oil.
On the subject of oil - I notice you mention you're used to servicing cars - be very careful if you don't buy the official can-am oil that you get one that's designed for motorbike clutches. If you use normal car oil, even stuff that's otherwise the right grade, you'll muck up your clutch.
There is the BUDs system that you will not be able to tap into. The dealers do connect to this to download updates for your Spyder and check how things are running. For this reason it may be worth getting the occasional service done by the dealer. In my case this isn't an option anyway and as my Spyder is running sweet I don't see it as an issue. I did consider buying a 3rd party BUD's system myself but haven't bothered.
Not hard to work on just a lot of things to remove to get to what you want to work on. I just did spark plugs and wires on my RT and it took some patience, but I got it done.
Here is how I keep track of my screws and fasteners... the outline isn't very dark in the picture, but I have the main bike, and a couple of the smaller panels drawn and as I pull a screw out, I stick it in the picture where it goes... I have one for the trailer too. If I have to dig in any further than the Tupperware, well, I have plenty of cardboard.
2017 Can Am Commander Limited
2012 Cadillac CTS-V Black Diamond
2020 F3 Limited Magma Red (miss the 2011 Viper red)
2010 RT622 - Black
Start by getting a shop manual (green manuals online). Although I'm on the otherside of old I do most of the work on the ground (wife will kick me from time to time to wake me up ). I do have ATV/motorcycle lift, single and A stands for some of the work. The only tough one would be valve adjustments. The panels are only a one time problem...the first. I like to set them aside with the corresponding screws with each. Having mechanical experience, as you do, will come easy once you get into it. Then run it by the shop sometime for a buds check. Sometimes they have some softwear updates...
Gene and Ilana De Laney Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
Spyder Maintenance
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by PistonBlown
2020 RT Ride Frequent Stay Safe
). I do have ATV/motorcycle lift, single and A stands for some of the work. The only tough one would be valve adjustments. The panels are only a one time problem...the first. I like to set them aside with the corresponding screws with each. Having mechanical experience, as you do, will come easy once you get into it. Then run it by the shop sometime for a buds check. Sometimes they have some softwear updates...
