I got the lights from iJDMToys 60-071 for $50. I bought the wiring harness but did not use it since everything was already in place. The switch is a 19mm waterproof switch $8 from stargoods_2014 on ebay. I cut two pieces of 1"angle aluminum to mount the light brackets to the bike light mount locations. I would pull the panels and take some pictures but I have been banned from any work on it for a couple of weeks (didn't get it together until 9:30 Friday night with Saturday being the Owners Even in Daytona). We have had it since mid January and only have 600 miles on it between work and the lighting work I was doing. Thankfully we still have the Rt for wind therapy as needed.
CJ JAX
Really enjoying your post on Fog lights. I have a 2015 F3S and plan on doing your installation. I have ordered the 19mm switch off of ebay, but I have a questions. the OEM wiring at the switch has 3 wires. Did you use all three wires?
Mike H
Really enjoying your post on Fog lights. I have a 2015 F3S and plan on doing your installation. I have ordered the 19mm switch off of ebay, but I have a questions. the OEM wiring at the switch has 3 wires. Did you use all three wires?
Mike H
No, I only used two of the three. Looked at the wiring diagram and one was ground and the other powered the relay when the switch was pushed. I figured the third was tied to the high beam switch to kill the power to the relay when the high beams were turned on.
I just finished ordering the fog lights from the same place you put on one of your post, Ordered the heat shields from BRP and got my 19 mm button. Looking forward to doing this upgrade. My exhaust comes in today but I don't know how log it will take for the fog lights to come in. With christmas in a few days it may be little while. May need some help if I get stumped but it pretty much looks straight forward!
Retired U.S navy Seabee! "CAN DO"
2015 Spyder F3-s
I just finished ordering the fog lights from the same place you put on one of your post, Ordered the heat shields from BRP and got my 19 mm button. Looking forward to doing this upgrade. My exhaust comes in today but I don't know how log it will take for the fog lights to come in. With christmas in a few days it may be little while. May need some help if I get stumped but it pretty much looks straight forward!
It isn't a bad job but feel free to ask away if you run into anything.
Finally got the Fog lights in yesterday. Still waiting for the heat shields but at least I got them. (I think all the bad weather up north caused the long shipping). Made my brackets like you did and tapped into the factory light harness for the for lights. I have a push button switch already (Got it when I did the garage door opener bush button) but it is only a momentary push button switch and I need an on and off push button switch. So I ordered one this morning. Have not aimed them or adjusted them yet because I have to have them on but that should not be hard to do. Thanks for the great mod and look forward to using the fog lights once I get them done.
Retired U.S navy Seabee! "CAN DO"
2015 Spyder F3-s
Not Can Am but fully functional (thanks in part to all the prewiring and relay installed at the factory) and all in for $80 including the factory heat shields. I only started this because when I picked up the bike in January the lights were not available and I was tolld it would be March or later so I was thinking interim solution but will be keeping this setup now. The projector housings currently contain H3 bulbs but are prepped for HID. Used a stainless steel waterproof switch attached to the factory wiring harness and made pigtails to go from the factory plugs to the lights. Need to get some photos but it is tough with just a cell phone camera. They light up better than the high beams.
CJ JAX
Your setup looks OEM, some additional pictures of the installation would be great!
Thanks~~
Where did you acquire the mounting brackets for the GIVI saddle bags and top box? I had Shads on my GS and made my own mounts, but I am sure the company ones would work better.
I just installed the fog lights on my bikes. Wasn't able to wire them yet because I don't have the wiring diagram. The one posted on this thread is not clear enough for me to use. I modified the install slight by using l shaped brackets instead. 😁. If anybody can provide a wiring diagram or just let me know what wire goes where I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
I just installed the fog lights on my bikes. Wasn't able to wire them yet because I don't have the wiring diagram. The one posted on this thread is not clear enough for me to use. I modified the install slight by using l shaped brackets instead. 😁. If anybody can provide a wiring diagram or just let me know what wire goes where I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner but I have been really swamped. I tapped into the black wire and the gray with green stripe. Not positive of the purpose of the other two but one may signal the relay to open if the high beams are turned on and the other may be for switch illumination.
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner but I have been really swamped. I tapped into the black wire and the gray with green stripe. Not positive of the purpose of the other two but one may signal the relay to open if the high beams are turned on and the other may be for switch illumination.
CJ JAX
Thanks!! How about the connection at the push button side?
Here in New Zealand, the auxilary light spot on the spyder F3 has our fulltime running lights, and when we switch to Hi Beam the lights below the screen, (which is your normal running lights) come on and the running lights go off. Im not sure why we are different down here lolol
We now have His and Hers Spyders.
Current Spyder, 2015 F3 Steel Black, Passenger Backrest, Blue Ridge Screen with Xcreen Extention, Akrapovic Muffler, Attitude Handlebars, Blades front rims, RT Swaybar,
Her Spyder 2011 Magnesium RSS Sportrack and Backrest, Comfort Seat, Grip Puppies, 3.5 inch Riser Bars, Wespyd Signature Swaybar. Hindle Muffler, Godiva Screen, Hiway Pegs Can Am Panniers
yes. It is only tacked in place in the picture. I want to put white heat shrink over all but the leds to clean it up. Did the same on my RT. the 5050 leds throw a bunch of light
I think Spyderpops and Lamont sell kits if you want to go that way. I buy all of mine off ebay. A 5 meter roll of the 5050's runs about $12 delivered. The lighting I put on our RT has been in place for almost two years now with no issues so it does hold up to the heat and rain in Florida. I had left over from the lighting I did for the saddle bags and trunk in the RT. I put tilt switches in the doors so the lights are automatic and don't require turning something on and off. No drilling required on the F3 for the frunk lip light, ran the wires back and tapped into one of the marker circuits for power when the bike is running.
I tried to hook into the driving lights wires, but I don't have any power. I put the two black wires together at the switch, and I put power from the orange wire to the grey/gn wire, but I don't have any power on the grey/gn wire at the connector for the driving lights. Is there a fuse that I have to put in? At this point I am thinking of just wiring it up myself.
Also, why is the power at the switch coming from the dash cluster fuse? I know this because I accidentally touched the wires together. I would have thought it would come from the daylights fuse in the other block of fuses.
I tried to hook into the driving lights wires, but I don't have any power. I put the two black wires together at the switch, and I put power from the orange wire to the grey/gn wire, but I don't have any power on the grey/gn wire at the connector for the driving lights. Is there a fuse that I have to put in? At this point I am thinking of just wiring it up myself.
Also, why is the power at the switch coming from the dash cluster fuse? I know this because I accidentally touched the wires together. I would have thought it would come from the daylights fuse in the other block of fuses.
i thought i was the only one that had that problem. Encountered same problem. No power to the switch. I don't know what i am missing as well
I tried to hook into the driving lights wires, but I don't have any power. I put the two black wires together at the switch, and I put power from the orange wire to the grey/gn wire, but I don't have any power on the grey/gn wire at the connector for the driving lights. Is there a fuse that I have to put in? At this point I am thinking of just wiring it up myself.
Also, why is the power at the switch coming from the dash cluster fuse? I know this because I accidentally touched the wires together. I would have thought it would come from the daylights fuse in the other block of fuses.
Did you have the bike running when you checked for power? Don't remember where the power for the switch came from but it is only to engage the relay which in turn powers the lights. I'm not sure what you are doing for the wiring. The black wire goes to one side of the switch and the grey/green goes to the other. When the switch is engaged the black is connected to the grey/green which pulls in the relay and provides power to the lights.
Yep, I tried the grey/green wire with the bike running. No luck there. I just decided to run my own wiring to my LED lights from the switch, and it works now.
switch
Originally Posted by zuni
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I would have thought it would come from the daylights fuse in the other block of fuses.
