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Very Active Member
The overheat warning is what concerns me, a bad radiator cap will puke antifreeze but the warning light would not come on (unless it was loosing antifreeze along the ride until there was not enough antifreeze left to cool the engine). A rad cap is cheap so you could try that to start. Make sure the radiator is not plugged with debris but I bet you already checked. A bad waterpump will usually leak before it quites but I had one that sheared the impeller off and cuased overheating in my car.
I had a big block boat engine that kept puking out the overflow bottle after the mechanic rebuilt the engine. I did all the usual inspections and could find nothing wrong, nothing wrong until I seen steam billing out the back and the engine locked up. I pulled the engine out myself and tore it down only to find they had used truck gaskets on the 460 instead of marine gaskets required for the marine heads. This restricted the water flow which caused a localized hot spot at the cylinders even though the water temp guage read fine. After buying the correct gaskets I called them to tell them what I had found. They said that the gaskets would make no difference and refused reimbursement beyound cutting me a deal ont he parts. Now I know you did not rebuild your engine but just making a point that it can be be difficult to pin point this type of problem.
I also had a radiator plug up after the last owner used stop leak to repair leak. It restrict the water so much the pump could hot push enough through to cool the block. A new radiator later I was up and running better than ever.
If after you replace the cap on the overflow tank it continues I would take it to a dealer to have the system pressure tested and inspected.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by jtpollock
Last evening I rolled the Spyder out ran it around the block a few times and
About 15 minutes got 7bars the temp red light hi temp warning message across
the interment panel and limp home mode I was in the driveway so I put my hand
near the fan and cool air was coming from the fan. This whole thing is killing me
I ride every day and it’s been 21 days since I was able to have a good ride.
More to come jtpollock
You need the rhs side pod off when it gets hot & shows the red light. Need to feel the rad & hoses with your bare hands to see how far the hot coolant is getting. Sounds like it is not being circulated properly.
2008 GS SM5, Full Moon Silver
2007 Piaggio MP3 - 250cc
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Very Active Member
It's hard to imagine the hot engine lights on, the cooling fan on & cool air being blown by the fan. Apart from a circulation problem, I'm temporarily baffled.
2008 GS SM5, Full Moon Silver
2007 Piaggio MP3 - 250cc
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Originally Posted by oldgoat
It's hard to imagine the hot engine lights on, the cooling fan on & cool air being blown by the fan. Apart from a circulation problem, I'm temporarily baffled.
Agreed! ....that's the only reason I was leaning toward a clogged radiator. It's a puzzler for sure!
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Very Active Member
If you have the time you could:
Remove the thermostat from its housing (I know it is a new one) & close up the housing without it in. Run around the neighborhood for a while & see if it still gets too hot. With the thermostat removed you have uninterrupted coolant flow around the engine & radiator.
If it gets too hot, then you can say that it is one of the following:
1) your water pump is not circulating the coolant - impellor or shaft problem
2) the radiator fins are blocked - clean them out from the rear
3) the radiator tubes are blocked - new rad or professional clean
At the moment I can't think of anything else.
2008 GS SM5, Full Moon Silver
2007 Piaggio MP3 - 250cc
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You can't remove the thermostat and run without it. Doesn't work that way.
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Flush
Drain the coolant. See if you can flush the radiator with a hose. Sounds clogged to me
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by DrewNJ
You can't remove the thermostat and run without it. Doesn't work that way.
Didn't know that.
2008 GS SM5, Full Moon Silver
2007 Piaggio MP3 - 250cc
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What'll happen?
Back in the good old days; pulling a thermostat was a pretty normal course of action for overheating problems...
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Its not like you'd see on a car at all. The thermostat is enclosed in a sealed plastic enclosure with the radiator hoses attached. To remove the thermostat you'd have to remove the entire assembly.
I guess you could remove the entire assembly and bolt in a big T fitting to the hoses to bypass or cut open the assembly to get to the stat and try to repair the assembly housing......
Since the thermostat has already been replaced the likelyhood of a bad replacement to replace a bad one is pretty unlikely. Especially since they are designed to fail in open/bypass to prevent overheating.
On another note, the thermostats on our machines are more prone to failure than you'd ever believe (its the same aprilia stat). However, most don't notice it and are happy to see the bike running cooler. Most don't ride in the winter.
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Aha! Thanks!
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Originally Posted by oldgoat
If you have the time you could:
Remove the thermostat from its housing (I know it is a new one) & close up the housing without it in. Run around the neighborhood for a while & see if it still gets too hot. With the thermostat removed you have uninterrupted coolant flow around the engine & radiator.
If it gets too hot, then you can say that it is one of the following:
1) your water pump is not circulating the coolant - impellor or shaft problem
2) the radiator fins are blocked - clean them out from the rear
3) the radiator tubes are blocked - new rad or professional clean
At the moment I can't think of anything else.
Fooled you the thermostat can not be remover from the housing it's all one piece thats how they get $70 bucks for it.
thanks for the input it's in the shop now waiting for the bad news they had it all day Satyrday no call no idea...
Not sure how the radiator tubes could be blocked?? Very frustrated jtpollock
forgot to mension this part be carfull if you deside to hall your one in a rented trailer. the U-hall I picked was a 6x12 thinking it wouls be wide enough but the tailgate was around 3 inches to nerrow and had to return it... not happy the next morning call a towtruck and had it towed to the dealer grand total $230....
Last edited by jtpollock; 04-13-2015 at 10:01 AM.
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Is it actually hot? Could it be a bad temperature sensor and it is lying to you and the nanny? Just a thought.
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Member
Clogged heater valve
Is there a heater valve in the bottom of the radiator? if so, I have seen mud clog them up and give a wrong reading for the fan to run.
2011 Can Am Spyder RT-SE5
NBV-Pegs
BajaRon Anti-Sway bars w/ links
Tricled 3/4 Break Running Lights
Tricled Mirror turn signals
J&M rear speaker install
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Originally Posted by JohnnyK
Is it actually hot? Could it be a bad temperature sensor and it is lying to you and the nanny? Just a thought.
Again I want to thank all that responded to my post... Turns out it was a bad temperature sensor and a bad wire the shpo back flushed everything
replaced the temperature sensor and fixed a bad wire most likely caused by me anyway should get my spyder back as soon as the snow stops with a cost I can live with...snow go away!!! jtpollock
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