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Very Active Member
You did not mention if the display showed a overheating condition? If it did not I will assume it is not overheating. If coolant is coming out of the vent tube. Then the first thing I would check is that the cap is in the second detent position.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Very Active Member
when he said second detent position he was saying to be sure that the cap is on tightly, it will go on and click once and then click a second time and that is when it is tight. If that is not the problem, i would suggest that you let your dealer check it, i can't help with the thermostat because that is beyond my pay grade.
Cruzr Joe
2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
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Very Active Member
2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
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Very Active Member
Three...!!
There are three main leak points, no make that four...
1. Radiator cap not on properly
2. Radiator hose clamp not tight (there is only one adjustable clamp on these machines and they put it on the radiator.)
3. Resevoir tank cracked
4. Water pump seal
The most common are the first two. You might also check that it is not overfilled. Mine runs at five bars in the heat or traffic...
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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To answer your question, the thermostat is on the right side. Right next to your right foot directly behind the radiator/fan. Its a black plastic "top" shaped assembly with 3 radiator hoses attached to it. About the size of a small fist.
You will need to pull all the body panels on the right including the lower black panel by the foot peg.
Last edited by DrewNJ; 03-17-2015 at 02:02 PM.
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The boys pretty will covered it above. They changed the water pump seal on mine the first year under warranty, but it was mostly drips on the garage floor not as much as you are seeing. #1 or #2 seem more likely the cause. Hope you get it figured out and keep us posted.
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Very Active Member
Any antifreeze should work as long as it is safe for aluminum engines.
2020 F3 Ltd
Spyderpops Bumpskid
Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights
2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
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Its green ethylene glycol. Just make sure whatever you choose is compatible. No dexcool.
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If your swapping the stat leave your radiator tank cap tight. This will minimize how much comes out during disassembly. Put a small clean bucket under where your working to catch your spills and reuse. When I did mine I didn't need any additional other than what my bucket caught. Good luck!
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
I know that this doesn't directly address the problem...
But I used to run Engine Ice in my Yamaha Grizzly ATV...
Low speed running with a mud-clogged radiator is a good test of a cooling system!
The bike ran about 10 degrees cooler with it...
Ya Bob I was running purple ice in Durango when this hole problem started.
today I am just running anit-freeze... starting to run out of hope so many
things that have been a problem for 3 years of ownership... thanks jtpollock.
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I'd say that, "Great minds think alike", but I wouldn't want to insult you like that!
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Very Active Member
Is it possible for a radiator cap to have an intermittent problem; like maybe with the plunger? I might just change it for the heck of it. They aren't that expensive, are they?
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So was your overheat when you were stressing it more with the 300ft climb?
Possible partially clogged radiator? Efficient enough to cool most of the time, but not flowing/cooling well when the system is stressed????
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