A few things about my new Spyder I wonder about.......

[vrider]

Picked up the Spyder yesterday. Rode almost 200 miles already.

Some things I noticed and wonder about:

1. The steering has play. Not a lot but noticeable. Is this normal?
2. I have a 2014 RT limited with a 1330 and..... it seems sluggish when taking off. Even sort of goes chug chug... Wondering if I need to give it more throttle... Used to a clutch so maybe that is how automatics take off?
3. Wind.... Holly crap... Not a pleasant feeling... Was riding with a pretty good wind doing about 65 (I have rode several other motorcycles in the wind) and I felt like I was out of control. No wind or light wind it was fine. Not sure if I was grabbing the bars or automatically putting in too much input. I will need practice.
4. The dealer did not clean anything.. the chrome has little spots all over it that are a bitch to get out. Any ideas on what to use to clean that up?

Thanks Much

[midnightbreeze50]

Picked up the Spyder yesterday. Rode almost 200 miles already.

Some things I noticed and wonder about:

1. The steering has play. Not a lot but noticeable. Is this normal?
2. I have a 2014 RT limited with a 1330 and..... it seems sluggish when taking off. Even sort of goes chug chug... Wondering if I need to give it more throttle... Used to a clutch so maybe that is how automatics take off?
3. Wind.... Holly crap... Not a pleasant feeling... Was riding with a pretty good wind doing about 65 (I have rode several other motorcycles in the wind) and I felt like I was out of control. No wind or light wind it was fine. Not sure if I was grabbing the bars or automatically putting in too much input. I will need practice.
4. The dealer did not clean anything.. the chrome has little spots all over it that are a bitch to get out. Any ideas on what to use to clean that up?

Thanks Much

Well first thing you are probally doing what every first rider does when they get their first spyder ,your trying to hold on the the handle bars with a Death grip , what you need to do is relax, relax , relax, let the spyder do the work, the play your feeling is probally you overcompensating the steering, , now as far as a simi auto ride , try this when you start off rev first gear out to around 25 mph, then shift every 5000rpm and up soon it will come to you keep your throtle at a constant speed , the bike has the tupperware on it so it catches more wind than a 2 wheeler, you will soon get used to that its nothing the Spyder cant handle , and as for the spots on your chrome I recomend , ROYAL BLUE, cleaner and wax, and i recomend, new wipe for the plastic parts and your ride will look new as long as you own it, most of all Have FUN the Spyder is a wonderful machine , I know I do


Midnightbreeze

[ursamajor35126]

..... The learning curve for a new ryder can be steep..... learn to relax your grip and shoulders..... let the bike move around a bit underneath you. The Nanny will keep you safe and prevent any unsafe movement. The more you relax the more smiles you develop.

The new 3 cylinder engine has a lot of low end torque but the semi-automatic transmission's clutch doesn't fully engage until around 2000-2200 RPM..... so you want to go ahead and "twist" it pretty good to get her going and fully engaged. I shift at around 3000 RPM if I'm putting around.... 5K if I want to get a move on.

Welcome to the spyder side and have fun.

MT

[ARtraveler]

on your new ryde.

The death grip syndrome will make the handle like it is squirrely. Try to lighten up on the grip a bit and see what happens.

RE: Shifting the 1330. The 5000 rpm's mentioned above best fit the 998 two cylinder Rotax.

I posted the following in response to another shift-point question. Hope you find it helpful.

I try to keep it simple. I shift for all gears at 3000 - 3500. That seems to be the "sweet spot" on mine. I keep the in that same operating range through all the gears. If you use the ECO mode, it will have you shift quicker (as in about 2000 or so on first & second). The ECO limits the throttle but saves about 1 mpg for me. I find looking for the shift light to be annoying.

One additional point if you are driving a SE6, do not roll the throttle when shifting. The computer compensates. Just leave the throttle on and punch the shift button.

Following the above, you will get through the break-in period with no glitches. I do not recommend red lining or doing funny stuff until you have a couple thousand miles on it. There is also a warning to cool it for the first 350 miles or so to get the tires and brakes set in well.

With my method, I get 39 - 42 mpg consistently.

[vrider]

Tomorrow I shall try to give her a bit more throttle at take off and then relax more when riding and let her move around a bit.

Also have to pickup some cleaning supplies to make her look like new.

Thanks for the information

[Deer Slayer]

I know this seams smart, but read da book. I just came off Goldwings after 200,000 + miles. What a learning curve. I did read the book and watch the DVD. Lots of help. Twice rpm engine and slipper clutch to learn. Enjoy your new ride and congratulations.

[ursamajor35126]

Tomorrow I shall try to give her a bit more throttle at take off and then relax more when riding and let her move around a bit.

Also have to pickup some cleaning supplies to make her look like new.

Thanks for the information

Best stuff available http://www.cyclegear.com/PLEXUS-Anti...ant-AND-Polish


IMHO.

[4 MARIE]

For ME, just cruising, 3k to 3500 works okay as a shift point. From a standstill in 1st gear, it will chug a little because you have to get that poundage moving. I don't run out either of the first two gears, they're pretty low. But in ANY gear, once you're spinning 4 grand or better, things happen quickly. I am way impressed with mine.

Oh, about the wind. It was nice when I went out yesterday, but on the turnaround it was really blowing. The spyder will handle a stiff crosswind, but it isn't what I'd enjoy for honeymoon period. Stay safe, relax, you're gonna love it.

[Utah Geezer]

Welcome to the Fun Club. Lots of good advise shared with you. You will always get a lot of good advise on this website. For the 1330 I also shift between 3000-3500 and find it perfect for performance. When I had the 998 engine I did shift at the 5000 RPM level. I'm liking the 1330 a lot and the shift points are definitely different. I still find myself doing the death grip once in a while and have to remind myself to relax. Wind doesn't bother me. Seems better to handle in a heavy wind than the 2 wheeler was for me. Wind is no fun regardless of the machine you are straddling.

Be safe and have fun. You'll never look back.

[Professor]

I had an awful time with my new RT at first - just awful. I was sure I had made a very expensive mistake. But I kept riding - one or two short rides every day. Each ride seemed a little better, then around 600-700 miles, I finally realized that it was me that had been causing the "squirrelliness" from over-controlling. It took me about 700 miles for my neurology to learn the the differences between the Spyder and 50 years of riding two-wheelers. I also installed a Bajaron anti-sway bar and I highly recommend it. Some have said it took them two or three thousand miles. It's worth it. Once you get the feel of what a Spyder does - and let it do it, it becomes just as much - if not more fun - as two wheels. I love riding it more every day.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Picked up the Spyder yesterday. Rode almost 200 miles already.

Some things I noticed and wonder about:

Have you ridden ATVs? If so you'll soon realize that Spyder ryding is more like ATV riding than 2-wheel riding. If you haven't ridden an ATV you'll be able to handle one quite well after a few hundred miles on your Spyder! Those of us who had ATV experience before getting a Spyder found the adjustment easier than those who had only 2 wheel experience.

[3 Wheel Rider]

Sluggish... In addition to following the shifting advice already given, make sure the ECO mode is turned OFF... if it has one.

[flaggerphil]

As others have said, learning a light touch makes a huge difference. Even more so in heavy winds.

[jaherbst]

Best stuff available http://www.cyclegear.com/PLEXUS-Anti...ant-AND-Polish


IMHO.

Lemmon Pledge works just as well and is 1/3 the cost. Use on windshield, body, wheels etc. I have used this on my airplane windshield and airplane along with boats, cars, and motorcycles. I like Plexus, but is has doubled in price in the last two years. Lemmon pledge covers up the mini scratches on the windshield better than Plexus. Try it you will like it. Safe on everything.

Jack

[Lew L]

Say vrider,
My new RT-S handeled funny at first also----Check the tire air pressure.

Professor,
I also had toget used to the "grip" after 5 decads on 2 wheels But it's much better now

Kaos

[ARtraveler]

I had an awful time with my new RT at first - just awful. I was sure I had made a very expensive mistake. But I kept riding - one or two short rides every day. Each ride seemed a little better, then around 600-700 miles, I finally realized that it was me that had been causing the "squirrelliness" from over-controlling. It took me about 700 miles for my neurology to learn the the differences between the Spyder and 50 years of riding two-wheelers. I also installed a Bajaron anti-sway bar and I highly recommend it. Some have said it took them two or three thousand miles. It's worth it. Once you get the feel of what a Spyder does - and let it do it, it becomes just as much - if not more fun - as two wheels. I love riding it more every day.

You were a quick learner. It took me about 1500 miles on my 2008 before I felt comfortable. Also, almost 50 years of two wheeling. The spouse at the time took about 250 miles to learn her 2009. No "bad habits" to unlearn.

[vrider]

I rode for two more days now and it is getting better.

Shifting first and second between 2200 and 2500 is smooth then the rest between 3000 and 3500 seems to work well

Wind was bad yesterday again so I slapped on a go pro and took a ride across a high and very windy bridge. Upon review of the video the Spyder stayed in the same spot on the road despite the fact I felt it was moving all over the place. Then I rode over the bridge several more times and relaxed and it was all good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bam Bam and Pebbles]

I rode for two more days now and it is getting better.

Shifting first and second between 2200 and 2500 is smooth then the rest between 3000 and 3500 seems to work well

Wind was bad yesterday again so I slapped on a go pro and took a ride across a high and very windy bridge. Upon review of the video the Spyder stayed in the same spot on the road despite the fact I felt it was moving all over the place. Then I rode over the bridge several more times and relaxed and it was all good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have found, for the most part, that when the wind really hits me, I move, but the Beast doesn't. Keep riding and you will love the way it handles.

[gened4288]

Lemmon Pledge works just as well and is 1/3 the cost. Use on windshield, body, wheels etc. I have used this on my airplane windshield and airplane along with boats, cars, and motorcycles. I like Plexus, but is has doubled in price in the last two years. Lemmon pledge covers up the mini scratches on the windshield better than Plexus. Try it you will like it. Safe on everything.

Jack

PLUS...your Spyder will have a "lemony-fresh smell"!!!

[MarkLawson]

Lot's of answers already to your steering question & I guess they're all right, but the real solution is understanding the steering physics and that will explain why you are having the problems you are having and what you need to do to correct it. Once you KNOW, the solution comes fast.

2-wheelers utilize a steering technique called 'counter-steering'. This means that to make a turn, say a right hand turn, you nudge the handlebars slightly to the left. This initiates a right hand lean, which then causes the bike to turn right. This is how all riders do it, most likely without realizing it. If you have been riding 2-wheelers long, your arms already know how to turn and it is an unconscious reaction to a conscience instruction from your brain.

Now, the Spyder does not lean, so the same steering inputs you're arms are used to giving to turn are actually the opposite of what the Spyder requires. On the Spyder, to turn right, you steer right. Once your arms learn the new technique, the steering will be exactly as it should be, fun and done automatically.

Once you have acquired this new skill, you'll also notice that you can stay in your lane position too, as it requires constant steering input, even when going straight.

Hope this helps you make the adjustment needed.

[Roadster Renovations]

on your new ryde.

The death grip syndrome will make the handle like it is squirrely. Try to lighten up on the grip a bit and see what happens.

RE: Shifting the 1330. The 5000 rpm's mentioned above best fit the 998 two cylinder Rotax.

I posted the following in response to another shift-point question. Hope you find it helpful.

I try to keep it simple. I shift for all gears at 3000 - 3500. That seems to be the "sweet spot" on mine. I keep the in that same operating range through all the gears. If you use the ECO mode, it will have you shift quicker (as in about 2000 or so on first & second). The ECO limits the throttle but saves about 1 mpg for me. I find looking for the shift light to be annoying.

One additional point if you are driving a SE6, do not roll the throttle when shifting. The computer compensates. Just leave the throttle on and punch the shift button.

Following the above, you will get through the break-in period with no glitches. I do not recommend red lining or doing funny stuff until you have a couple thousand miles on it. There is also a warning to cool it for the first 350 miles or so to get the tires and brakes set in well.

With my method, I get 39 - 42 mpg consistently.

That is exactly the way I ride mine. That 1330 loves the 3,000-3,500 mile RPM shift. It just purrs. One other factor, if you are using a lower octane gas it will cause it to be sluggish taking off, even pinging some. I buy the highest octane I can to stop that. Other riders will tell you it doesn't make any difference, but it is noticeable for me.
I also have some play in my steering and that's normal. It should tighten up some when the engine is running. Part of the electric power steering.
I'll bet within 500 miles you will be settled in pretty good.
on your new Ryde!

[Cruzr Joe]

That is exactly the way I ride mine. That 1330 loves the 3,000-3,500 mile RPM shift. It just purrs. One other factor, if you are using a lower octane gas it will cause it to be sluggish taking off, even pinging some. I buy the highest octane I can to stop that. Other riders will tell you it doesn't make any difference, but it is noticeable for me.
I also have some play in my steering and that's normal. It should tighten up some when the engine is running. Part of the electric power steering.
I'll bet within 500 miles you will be settled in pretty good.
on your new Ryde!

I really agree with the gas part, use good high octane fuel.

Cruzr Joe

[Midian]

What a great thread! I have been on two wheels for over 23 years and I got a lot out of it, thanks guys! But lemon Pledge, really? You never know I guess!