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  1. #1
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    Default Diabled Power Steering

    Last year after a ride around the island of Guam my DPS trouble light came on and the DPS stopped working. I pulled the relay to ensure it would not come on intermittently and cause me problems such as during traffic or on a curve. Its been easy to drive with manual steering and I have not had any issues except the annoying DPS trouble light and orange screen that pops up routinely and when coming to a stop. I'm in the military stationed here in Guam. It's not be feasible to take it to my next duty station and I will need to sale it here.

    Before I sell my Spyder I want to troubleshoot and repair the DPS issue. Any ideas what should be done prior to shelling out $900+ for a replacement power steering pump? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.


    2011 Spyder RT A&C SE5
    Last edited by brwbmf; 03-10-2015 at 04:46 PM.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member ahh-cool's Avatar
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    I don't know much about it, but if it's electrical and not hydraulic. Put power to one side and see if it turns one way and then the other. if it does it's not your motor.
    If it's hydraulic then see if you have pressure and then check the shuttle valve.
    Stefan


  3. #3
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Little checking..!!

    not sure about your year and model but there were recalls on some units and brp replaced them. You could run a check by vin# if you haven't already. As far as fixing them have not heard of anyone that has. Some have searched out the used parts markets ebay or cheapcycleparts.com for better prices..good luck..
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  4. #4
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    It is 100% electric. Most issues come from a weak battery or loose, corroded electrical connections. Don't forget the grounding point. Would be helpful if you shared year and model.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  5. #5
    Very Active Member bruiser's Avatar
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    See what codes come up first before replacing anything.



    USAF '69-'89 E7
    Thailand/Vietnam 1972
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  6. #6
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    Default Updates

    Thanks for the feedback so far.

    I thought my bike's info was listed as part of my . My mistake.

    2011 Spyder RT A&C SE5

    So here's what I've done:
    1. Replaced the battery.
    2. Checked all terminals clean and tight.
    3. Read the codes: P0551 (Torque sensor open) & P0552 (Torque sensor shorted to gnd).
    4. Removed and replaced the DPS relay.
    5. Priced a replacement DPS...became disgusted!
    6. No authorized CAN AM dealers/service shops in Guam

  7. #7
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brwbmf View Post
    Thanks for the feedback so far.

    I thought my bike's info was listed as part of my . My mistake.

    2011 Spyder RT A&C SE5

    So here's what I've done:
    1. Replaced the battery.
    2. Checked all terminals clean and tight.
    3. Read the codes: P0551 (Torque sensor open) & P0552 (Torque sensor shorted to gnd).
    4. Removed and replaced the DPS relay.
    5. Priced a replacement DPS...became disgusted!
    6. No authorized CAN AM dealers/service shops in Guam
    Ouch, sounds like a new DPS is needed. The torque sensor is inside the DPS unit. I have not heard of anyone taking one apart to fix and how would you get parts if you did find the problem.

    I have seen from time to time DPS units for sale on Ebay. Maybe getting one from a wreck is an option. Then come the problem of doing the calibration if you swap out for another one.

    Good Luck.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

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