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  1. #1
    Very Active Member OverHillAndDale's Avatar
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    Default Supporting the Spyder on ramps

    To install the Baja Ron anti sway bar, I've got to get at least 22" of clearance under the front of my Spyder. My car ramps don't come close.

    I've got a couple of 2 by 8 boards I can set up as ramps, but I don't know what they can hold. Since I'll be under the bike I'm a bit concerned.

    Assuming the boards are in good shape with no cracks, can 2 by 8 ramps be trusted? The Spyder weighs just over 1000 lbs, and since these will be supporting the front I'm guessing maybe 700 lbs will be supported by the ramps, so 350 lbs each. Boards are 8 feet long and I'd angle them at 30 degrees or so.

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    Very Active Member bullant12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverHillAndDale View Post
    To install the Baja Ron anti sway bar, I've got to get at least 22" of clearance under the front of my Spyder. My car ramps don't come close.

    I've got a couple of 2 by 8 boards I can set up as ramps, but I don't know what they can hold. Since I'll be under the bike I'm a bit concerned.

    Assuming the boards are in good shape with no cracks, can 2 by 8 ramps be trusted? The Spyder weighs just over 1000 lbs, and since these will be supporting the front I'm guessing maybe 700 lbs will be supported by the ramps, so 350 lbs each. Boards are 8 feet long and I'd angle them at 30 degrees or so.
    I wouldn't trust wood, particularly 2 inches thick. Try jacking both sides as high as you can, place the front tires on cinder blocks, then place the jack on the same level cinder blocks and keep raising until you can place a few blocks that gives you the 22" or more.
    May all your encounters with the law begin with the words: "nice trike!".[/B]
    2015 Can-Am Spyder F3-S SM-6 Can-am Red/Black SM-6 with 2010 Black RT-622 trailer (hitch in the works).

    Previously owned:
    2010 Can-Am Spyder RT SM-5
    2011 Can-Am Spyder RS-S SM-5
    2013 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SM-5

  3. #3
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Very bad advise.

    DO NOT USE CINDER BLOCKS (CONCRETE BLOCKS) TO SUPPORT YOUR SPYDER.

    Get a set of jack stands and a floor jack.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
    2015 F3S , Blue Flame

  4. #4
    Very Active Member OverHillAndDale's Avatar
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    I've got jack stands, but not a jack that will get the bike that high. Also, is it safe to jack using a floor jack from the center of the bike? If it tipped either way the bike would slide off.

    Harbor Freight sells some cheap ($89) ramps rated at 1000 lbs, 500 lbs each. They are for loading stuff onto a pickup, but I could build a stand attached to my garage wall to rest them on. Thoughts?

  5. #5
    Very Active Member Orange Spyder Man's Avatar
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    No reason to work under your spyder while jacked up... put your spyder on ramps... loosen all the bolts that need to be taken off... I used 2 x 12's on the back of my truck... pull your spyder up the 2x12's until you get enough clearance to remove the old sway bar.. ... put the new one in place.. back your spyder down.. put it back up on the ramps ..... and tighten all the necessary bolts & nuts...
    ONE WORD OF CAUTION.. THE PARKING BRAKE PROBABLY WILL NOT KEEP YOUR SPYDER FROM BACKING DOWN THE 2X12'S... USE A CHOCK IN BACK OF THE REAR WHEEL.. GET SOMEONE TO SIT ON THE BIKE AND HOLD THE BRAKE UNTIL YOU GET THE REAR WHEEL CHOCKED.. !!!

    if you have any questions that I can help with... PM me

    osm

  6. #6
    Very Active Member bullant12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    Very bad advise.

    DO NOT USE CINDER BLOCKS (CONCRETE BLOCKS) TO SUPPORT YOUR SPYDER.

    Get a set of jack stands and a floor jack.
    Forgot to clear something:

    Cinder blocks below jack stands OR the cinder block on the tires. But do not use cinder blocks on the a-arms!
    May all your encounters with the law begin with the words: "nice trike!".[/B]
    2015 Can-Am Spyder F3-S SM-6 Can-am Red/Black SM-6 with 2010 Black RT-622 trailer (hitch in the works).

    Previously owned:
    2010 Can-Am Spyder RT SM-5
    2011 Can-Am Spyder RS-S SM-5
    2013 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SM-5

  7. #7
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    When I changed my sway bar I used the Craftsman ATV lift and concrete blocks. I had a friend hold the bike steady on the lift until I had it resting on the blocks. Since the lift wouldn't go high enough the first time I put it on a pallet to raise the bike high enough to get on the second block. The center of gravity is such that bike lifted more in front than back so I ended up with only one block under the back tire. With the parking brake on it didn't move. JC says not to use concrete blocks but they are plenty solid and stable the way I used them. In fact I tend to trust them more under the tires than jack stands under the suspension.
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    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  8. #8
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    Default RIGHT ON!

    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    Very bad advise.

    DO NOT USE CINDER BLOCKS (CONCRETE BLOCKS) TO SUPPORT YOUR SPYDER.

    Get a set of jack stands and a floor jack.
    Cinder blocks were never ever intended to take pressure in that direction. Until you've witnessed a cinder block totally collapse into a pile of rubble, I guess you'd trust them to hold up anything. Please, if you use cinder blocks flip them over and cover them with a short 2X8 for the tires to rest on. The jack is a good safety measure, but never never trust a cinder block to withstand vertical pressure laying on it's side. I know a RT only weighs 1k dry but please stay safe and keep your beautiful blue ride safe. Put 2X4 chalks on the 2X8's to keep it from rolling.
    Last edited by 2dogs; 03-06-2015 at 01:51 AM.

  9. #9
    Active Member scarecrow's Avatar
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    20140413_091626.jpg This is what I used to put on the swaybar. It work great and had enough height to remove and replace bar.
    Last edited by scarecrow; 03-06-2015 at 10:39 AM.
    2014 RTS , Cognac

  10. #10
    Active Member SpyderMouse22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scarecrow View Post
    This is what I used to put on the swaybar. It work great and had enough height to remove and replace bar.


    I have been looking for a good way to raise the bike and I like this idea. Looks like you have enough room to the the job. Also looks safe for man and bike.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2dogs View Post
    Cinder blocks were never ever intended to take pressure in that direction. Until you've witnessed a cinder block totally collapse into a pile of rubble, I guess you'd trust them to hold up anything. Please, if you use cinder blocks flip them over and cover them with a short 2X8 for the tires to rest on. The jack is a good safety measure, but never never trust a cinder block to withstand vertical pressure laying on it's side. I know a RT only weighs 1k dry but please stay safe and keep your beautiful blue ride safe. Put 2X4 chalks on the 2X8's to keep it from rolling.
    Please, if you use cinder blocks flip them over and cover them with a short 2X8 for the tires to rest on. The jack is a good safety measure, but never never trust a cinder block to withstand vertical pressure laying on it's side.
    Many many years ago I used to lay brick and blocks for a living, so I will re-affirm that blocks are not to be used for load bearing in a sideways position. Upright position they were used for some load bearing walls, but depending on the load may require the webs being filled with concrete. If you are going to use them for the Spyder please turn them upright and put a 2x8 block of wood on top to cover the entire block, just to be safe.
    just my friendly suggestion for safety, your mileage may vary, Ron

  12. #12
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2dogs View Post
    Cinder blocks were never ever intended to take pressure in that direction. Until you've witnessed a cinder block totally collapse into a pile of rubble, I guess you'd trust them to hold up anything. Please, if you use cinder blocks flip them over and cover them with a short 2X8 for the tires to rest on. The jack is a good safety measure, but never never trust a cinder block to withstand vertical pressure laying on it's side. I know a RT only weighs 1k dry but please stay safe and keep your beautiful blue ride safe. Put 2X4 chalks on the 2X8's to keep it from rolling.
    Quote Originally Posted by Spyder-rider View Post
    Many many years ago I used to lay brick and blocks for a living, so I will re-affirm that blocks are not to be used for load bearing in a sideways position. Upright position they were used for some load bearing walls, but depending on the load may require the webs being filled with concrete. If you are going to use them for the Spyder please turn them upright and put a 2x8 block of wood on top to cover the entire block, just to be safe.
    just my friendly suggestion for safety, your mileage may vary, Ron
    IMO you guys are overthinking it. First let's be clear. We're talking concrete blocks, not cinder blocks. Big difference. If we consider the center web only it's at least 1" thick by 8" wide. That's 8 square inches. The concrete is going to have a compressive strength of at least 2000 psi, if not 3000+. That's 16,000 pounds just for the center web. Admittedly in the configuration I used them the end webs will contribute very little. At most the front end of the Spyder is 800#, or 400# per tire. That's a safety factor of 20. I'm not worried in the least.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  13. #13
    Very Active Member OverHillAndDale's Avatar
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    I ended up buying some folding ramps from Northern Tool (rated at 1000 lbs) and supporting them on two 30" 4x4s that I bolted to my concrete block garage walls. Worked perfectly.

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