Replacing the battery on a 2010-2012 RT

[finless]

Lots of lessons learned today as the official BRP service manual was completely incorrect as you will see I found out the hard way today.

But in this video I also talks about a -BS battery (bottle filled) vs a OEM battery direct from Yashua.
So please be aware of this fact.
I went with the 24L-BS because I did not know about this issue.
Personally I think it will be fine but I will let everyone know as time goes on.
Anyway here is my video on replacing the battery and my experiences.

I also show a trick to remove the mid-side panel off an RT without removing all the other panels

Hope you all enjoy this video and that it was helpful to someone!



Enjoy,
Bob

[Purple Guy]

Thanks for your ever expanding collection of DIY videos Bob!

[happyspyder2039]

Thanks for your ever expanding collection of DIY videos Bob!

good video! thanks

[jomamma1]

Hello Bob,
Thanks for the video. I have spent the last few hours trying to get the battery out of my wifes 2011 RT. I couldn't find her manual, so I wasn't handicapped by that. I got as far as deciding that the side panel must come off. I was stumped by the 2 tamper proof screws on the left (forward) part of the panel I assumed they were actual screws but they would just turn and never come out. I gave up and came in and started looking for help online.
Thanks to your video, I will give it a try again tomorrow.
Joe in Modesto

[DR Buck]

Timely post Bob. I'm replacing my 2012 RT battery this coming weekend.

Thanks
Dave

[slyder]

Thanks a million Bob!!! Got hung up after reading the manual, saying what the @#$%$#$$#. Found your deal on spyderlovers. Now I will return to the garage and try not to kick the spyder, and finish replacing the battery.
Thanks again Bob!

[finless]

So folks, back in April I replaced my battery per the video.

I had bought a YTX24HL-BS from Chrome Battery. It is some kind of aftermarket version of Yuasa.

Bottom line I wasted $96 bucks. It is going to have to be replaced again soon.
So the talk of using a -BS is not just about the possibility of it leaking acid due to the soaking of the mats inside the battery.
This battery is junk.
1) It does not seem to have the same cold cranking AMPs the OEM Yuasa battery does yet had the same rating.
2) After ONLY 3 months it is now about as bad as my old battery I took out.
If I leave the key on for 5 minutes or so (like getting gas), the Spyder will barely start and sometimes the computer reboots when it does start (dash reboots).

So do yourself a favor. Get a "factory activated" real YTX24HL from Yuasa!
These cheap -BS alternatives work fine at first but do not last long.

Time for me to order one

Bob

[Richard2762]

Replaced my 2011 RT with a Lithium Ion battery, 12 pounds lighter 150 CCA more and smaller. recharges 25% faster. Has two year Vs 1 year warranty . Has built in voltage meter in top of battery .

[finless]

Replaced my 2011 RT with a Lithium Ion battery, 12 pounds lighter 150 CCA more and smaller. recharges 25% faster. Has two year Vs 1 year warranty . Has built in voltage meter in top of battery .

How about some more info? Model. brand,. where you got it, etc?

Bob

[Richard2762]

How about some more info? Model. brand,. where you got it, etc?

Bob

BikeMaster Lithium Ion 500 CCA DLFP-50N18L-A...$209.64.....Motorcycle PARTS 2U SKU:780831-TR

[jtoro1]

Great video Bob it looks I will replacing mine soon.

[finless]

Great video Bob it looks I will replacing mine soon.

I put the proper OEM battery in last weekend.

I bought it from Revzilla and ordered a factory activated Yuasa YTX24HL (not a -BS).

Because now I had done this before it took me all of 20 minutes! I ONLY removed the side mid panel per my video tip.

WHAT A DIFFERENCE over that cheapo knock off YTX24HL-BS I bought 4 months ago!

I purposely left the key on for 15 minutes, watch the battery voltage drop a little (about .4 volts) and hit the starter!
NO ISSUES AT ALL..... cranked right over.

Bottom line as many said. Get the real deal battery as it has far better cold cranking AMPs than knock off batteries.

Bob

[cyclelover63]

I have not had to do this yet...But,this has got to be one of the best and helpful videos ever put on this forum...It is something all RT owners with the battery under the seat will use..Also,another argument for using OEM parts...Thanks!

[wiredgeorge]

I put the proper OEM battery in last weekend.

I bought it from Revzilla and ordered a factory activated Yuasa YTX24HL (not a -BS).

Because now I had done this before it took me all of 20 minutes! I ONLY removed the side mid panel per my video tip.

WHAT A DIFFERENCE over that cheapo knock off YTX24HL-BS I bought 4 months ago!

I purposely left the key on for 15 minutes, watch the battery voltage drop a little (about .4 volts) and hit the starter!
NO ISSUES AT ALL..... cranked right over.

Bottom line as many said. Get the real deal battery as it has far better cold cranking AMPs than knock off batteries.

Bob

I bought a battery billed as a Yuasa replacement battery and it turns out it was a knock-off from a place called Batterysharks.com - lasted about 2 months and then DEAD. Lesson learned.

Can-Am really went out of their way to make the battery hard to get to on the 2010. Someday I am going to meet the engineer up close and personal and thank him for his creative hiding of the battery exercise. Bob's videos are critical and should be mandatory watching for that good ol' engineer. Service manual says... unhook cables and slide battery out (basically hehe). SERIOUSLY?

[finless]

I bought a battery billed as a Yuasa replacement battery and it turns out it was a knock-off from a place called Batterysharks.com - lasted about 2 months and then DEAD. Lesson learned.

Same here buddy! Glad someone else had the exact same experience as I did... Lesson learned...

Bob

[AbNormy]

Oddyssey from west coast Batteries was warranted almost 5 years after purchase for only shipping

Norm H Austin Tx

[Brettssunshine]

Considering I just put in a new battery this weekend, that replaced the new battery the previous owners purchased in May 2015. Theirs wasn't a Yuasa and the one I purchased isn't either. I guess I'll see how long this Duracell lasts.

[jtoro1]

Had to take out my battery for testing, checked out the video from Bob it all went easy. BOB YOUR THE MAN.

[finless]

Glad it helped!

Thanks

Bob

[bronzeflex42]

You are a big help to us DIYs.. Thanks Bob

[redfox]

Great Vid... I knew the 2 panal short cut and with this excellent instruction it took me 15 mins to get the old battery out of my 2011 RTS yesterday... did have to bend that 1 retainer clip up just slightly to get it out, but no problem at all. 5 yrs was pushing it on the original. Was going to buy OEM replacement from RevZilla but my dealer has them in stock for just $5 more so today I'm picking one up so I can finish it this morning. Suppose to be 60 in the great northeast this afternoon and ya know what that means... Thanks for doing the Video.

[Bill Davis]

Bob, Just wanted to say thank you
for the "how to video". I know it
saved me hours and most likely
several cuss words.
Bill

[finless]

Bob, Just wanted to say thank you
for the "how to video". I know it
saved me hours and most likely
several cuss words.
Bill

You are welcome! Glad I could help.

Bob

[CenaRTPE#685]

Time to replace mine as well. Recently in the shop after throwing DPS codes on different occasions; mechanic specifically looked for DPS codes when running diagnostics and found none, all battery issues. Nearly five years later, same battery, and 45,000 miles. It's taken me two weeks to convince spouse of what is going on, and a battery tender Every.Single.Night. just to get back and forth 42 miles. Several rush hour, pull over's to walk the key away, in the middle of 10 lanes of traffic! I am getting a new battery - done with this mess. Thanks for the video, Bob!

[Bill Davis]

Thanks for the insight on changing the battery and what not to do. I followed your advice and I'm sure it saved
me many hours of bad language and frustration. Great job on the vido.

Bill Davis