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  1. #51
    Very Active Member Rattlebars's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikej View Post
    Wish i read this thread first..I took the caliper off after 2 hours and tapped the piston back lightly with a hammer.......

    This one wins the prize for best post in this thread. Used a light hammer and a block of hardwood .5" x .5" and 3" long set directly in the center over the hole to lightly tap an extended piston back into place. Voilà!!! After that it was a piece of cake to use needle nose to CLOCKWISE turn the piston in to stop. Best to crack the bleeder too. I will never let my pads get that thin again.
    to see my 2016 F3-T and many how to's
    2016 F3-T SE6 Roadster , Extended brake pedal for which I drilled out the brake rod yolk to lower it and added spacers to lift it slightly Black/Grey

  2. #52
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Spyder rear caliber : instructions from BajaRon
    "Rear pad install
    The rear caliper also serves as the parking brake the rear piston needs to be retracted as the fronts with a C-clamp.however, it is likely that it will not retract far enough to complete the install. You will see 2 holes in the top of this piston bag for inserting a tool. The rear piston must be turned CLOCKWISE to retract the parking brake system. It is best to clean the rubber piston boot before this step it may take a good deal of force to start the piston turning but should get easier once the piston begins to turn. Turn the piston until it bottoms out.”

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  3. #53
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rattlebars View Post
    This one wins the prize for best post in this thread. Used a light hammer and a block of hardwood .5" x .5" and 3" long set directly in the center over the hole to lightly tap an extended piston back into place. Voilà!!! After that it was a piece of cake to use needle nose to CLOCKWISE turn the piston in to stop. Best to crack the bleeder too. I will never let my pads get that thin again.
    Be very careful cracking bleeders on any of the calipers on a Spyder. I am glad it worked well for you. But doing that can also cause some issues.
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  4. #54
    Very Active Member h0gr1der's Avatar
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    Pure speculation on my part as I've never done the rear caliper, but do any of you remember the rear adjusters on drum brake automobiles? I think this is the same thing, where you have a hydraulic system interfacing with a mechanical system. As the brake pads wear thinner, the parking brake lever advances a notch (just like the old mechanically adjusted rear drum brakes on cars), which keeps the clamping force (Distance) within a tolerance that works for the limited mechanical stroke of the parking brake. The piston can retract some, but with the parking brake ratcheted all the way out probably not enough to fit new pads.
    h0gr1der
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  5. #55
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    There is a tool you can buy at Harbor Freight that will do the trick. I don't know the name of the tool. It turns and pushes it back in easily. I had tried to push it in by pushing and turning with needle nose pliers so I went and bought the tool.

  6. #56
    Very Active Member AY4B's Avatar
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    Use a pair of needle nose pliers. both pointy ends in the 2 holes and turn to open it. Im pretty sure you turn left.
    2017 F3 Limited
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  7. #57
    Very Active Member Rattlebars's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AY4B View Post
    Use a pair of needle nose pliers. both pointy ends in the 2 holes and turn to open it. Im pretty sure you turn left.
    CLOCKWISE. Righty tighty. Never left.
    to see my 2016 F3-T and many how to's
    2016 F3-T SE6 Roadster , Extended brake pedal for which I drilled out the brake rod yolk to lower it and added spacers to lift it slightly Black/Grey

  8. #58
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    This is what you will need to work on the rear Brembo brakes also covers many auto applications, http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20733A-B.../dp/B000IB40L6

  9. #59
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    I carry this tool for the rear calipers (Brembo). It's $14.95 delivered. Fits on the end of a 3/8" drive ratchet or extension. I see I need to update the pictures. These will work for the 2019 models as well.

    They work pretty slick! Of course, as mentioned above. There are other options.

    Caliper Tool-1.jpg

    Caliper Tool-2.jpg
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  10. #60
    Active Member IHOP's Avatar
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    I can't thank you enough for putting this up on the boards! I tried compressing the caliper piston on my 2014 RT Limited: to no avail. Then I remembered when I had my 2013 that I squeezed the brake and did something to the piston to get it to go in, but I couldn't remember what it was until I read you post today! You save me probably a couple hours and not having to go redo the brake lines etc... Again: Thanks!!!





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    Started 2014 with a 2013 RT-S SE5. Wrecked it April 2019 with a 200lb hog! I am Blessed because if that was a two wheel motorcycle, DPS said without a shadow of a doubt I would have been dead! Thank you Can-Am! The issue I had with GIECO is they told me not to take anything off the Spyder when I brought it in to their claims center because they paid it out as a total. I just had ELKA put on all around and over $7,000 in Farkle that I am having to replace all that I could have taken off the '13. Bought a 2014 with only 3728 miles! Love it! My therapy!

  11. #61
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    Hope this helps and not hinders!
    I have changed my rear pads (2015 Spyder F3) three times and the trick is to balance the caliper on a piece of wood or brick and to insert a pair of long nosed pliers into the two holes on the piston and to Push and Turn at the same time. I have noticed that if the pads are really worn then the piston seems to have gone beyond its thread and turning has no effect - you then have to support the caliper and push and turn at the same time. One time out of three I just had to screw it back in so I have learned the hard way!
    BTW - I need a rear caliper repair kit - any ideas?

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