What's the trick to getting the piston back in for new pads? The service manual says to "rotate the parking brake lever on the caliper to pullback piston". I can't budge it nor move the piston. I've even tried a c-clamp with no luck. Any ideas?
I think about a month or so ago someone else here had the same issue .......They made a tool that enabled them to rotate the piston in order to get it to back in..............I think .....Mike
I was wondering what the two holes are for in the head of the piston. Possibly for a tool to use to screw it back in, and it is all the way out, what with me playing with it. I've tried the tension lever on the back but it only goes forward and that extends the piston. Yet the service manual says to rotate back to pull piston in. So now I have to find a special tool to see if I can screw it back in. Weird, with my Goldwing I just compressed the pistons back. Oh, Yes I removed the reservoir caps to relieve any pressure.
I was wondering what the two holes are for in the head of the piston. Possibly for a tool to use to screw it back in, and it is all the way out, what with me playing with it. I've tried the tension lever on the back but it only goes forward and that extends the piston. Yet the service manual says to rotate back to pull piston in. So now I have to find a special tool to see if I can screw it back in. Weird, with my Goldwing I just compressed the pistons back. Oh, Yes I removed the reservoir caps to relieve any pressure.
remove the lever and turn the shaft counter clock wise.
some times you need a "C" clamp to get it back in. You need to open the reservoir especially if you added fluid at any time. Your park brake should be released and reset if adjusted due to pad wear. I don't recommend twisting the pistons just pushing them straight back. Twisting can danage the o rings...
Gene and Ilana De Laney Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
some times you need a "C" clamp to get it back in. You need to open the reservoir especially if you added fluid at any time. Your park brake should be released and reset if adjusted due to pad wear. I don't recommend twisting the pistons just pushing them straight back. Twisting can danage the o rings...
+100
Bob
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
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Tried the C-clamp and didn't budge the piston. Even with the reservoirs open. Going to give dealer a call and see if I can get any suggestions (other then "get it towed in"). Also going to get a Piston rotation tool and screw it back in. Since this caliper is also a parking brake.
Sorry just noticed yours is a 2013....does it look like the one in the photo? It might be easier to rotate the piston.....or see if you can remove the round thing (bellcrank) that the cable is attached to, then turn the shaft.
Nope that's no where near what it looks like. Here's a picture from the service manual. Since the real thing is in pieces. Resting on some wood under the muffler.
If you tried a "C" clamp I will assume (risky as that is) you have removed the caliper and park brake cable. On the large plastic disc where the park cable connects you have a nut in the middle. Remove that nut,14mm I believe, and remove the disc this will allow the park brake to fully release. Now if it does not let you push the piston back it may be cocked at an angle (don't force it). If lines are still connected place a block of wood or old pads and a spacer then pump the brakes just enough to move the piston out a bit then try pushing it back. Must be even....
Gene and Ilana De Laney Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
Nope that's no where near what it looks like. Here's a picture from the service manual. Since the real thing is in pieces. Resting on some wood under the muffler.
You should be able to unbolt that lever then and rotate the shaft....the part with the cable on top and spring on the bottom. don't use a C clamp until the shaft is retracted.
NEVER use C Clamp on that piston, It's self adjusting.
You just have to put 2 pins in the holes on the top of the piston and rotate the piston himself with a small bar or a big screwdriver. It's really easy when you have the trick.
You dont have to move the parking brake shaft at all.
Good Luck.
(Please excuse my bad english i'usely speak french)
Silver RT Limited SE5 2013
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This will not make you fell better, but I had the same issue last year with my 14. BRP changed the calipers in 13 and they no longer rotate back with the parking brake lever. I tried everything including the C clamp, but was unable to retract the piston. Do not bother renting the piston retraction tools from an auto store as none of the plates fit the Spyder piston.
I did try two punches that fit into the holes in the piston and a bar between them to rotate the piston, but was unable to move the pistion back.
What I finally did was remove the caliper and took it to my dealer who was unable to retract it also so they ordered me a new one and installed it under warranty.
I hope you have better luck!
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This will not make you fell better, but I had the same issue last year with my 14. BRP changed the calipers in 13 and they no longer rotate back with the parking brake lever. I tried everything including the C clamp, but was unable to retract the piston. Do not bother renting the piston retraction tools from an auto store as none of the plates fit the Spyder piston.
I did try two punches that fit into the holes in the piston and a bar between them to rotate the piston, but was unable to move the pistion back.
What I finally did was remove the caliper and took it to my dealer who was unable to retract it also so they ordered me a new one and installed it under warranty.
I hope you have better luck!
It's exactly why i said NEVER USE A C CLAMP... You will broke the small thread between the piston and the caliper. The piston must act like a screw in a nut.
Silver RT Limited SE5 2013
BAJARON Anti-Sway Bar, BAJARON Heim Joints, SPYDERPOPS Bumpskid, SMOOTHSPYDER Belt Tensioner, SENA SM10 Dongle, CORBIN Passenger Armrest w. cupholder, UTOPIA Driver Backrest, SPYDERFLAP Mud Flap, STEBEL Nautilus Air Horn, TRICLED Rear Top LED Bar, TRICLED, 3rd & 4th Brake LED, TRICLED Mirror Turn Signal, TRICLED Tricfenderz LED Strip, CUSTOM DYNAMICS Front Mud Flap LED, CUSTOM DYNAMICS Amber Brightsides, CUSTOM DYNAMICS Red Brightsides, CUSTOM DYNAMICS Fender Tips ...
Remove the arm from the parking brake. Use a socket large enough to go over the threaded shaft that the parking brake arm bolts on to. 1 1/8" 1/2" drive socket. That will protect the parking brake shaft while using the C clamp. Position the C clamp so that the piston can be compressed, once snug open the bleeder valve while tightening the C clamp. Ensure that the piston is clean because brake dust can keep the piston from retracting. Compress the piston until flush, close the bleeder valve install your new pads and you are done. We have done it on two bikes this month and it is a royal pain in the rear end! Susie, I hope you have a helper.
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Remove the arm from the parking brake. Use a socket large enough to go over the threaded shaft that the parking brake arm bolts on to. 1 1/8" 1/2" drive socket. That will protect the parking brake shaft while using the C clamp. Position the C clamp so that the piston can be compressed, once snug open the bleeder valve while tightening the C clamp. Ensure that the piston is clean because brake dust can keep the piston from retracting. Compress the piston until flush, close the bleeder valve install your new pads and you are done. We have done it on two bikes this month and it is a royal pain in the rear end! Susie, I hope you have a helper.
Ann...
You can do that on the front calipers only.
But for the rear brake, you can't use that method on 2013 and 2014 models.
The piston is screwed into the caliper...
Silver RT Limited SE5 2013
BAJARON Anti-Sway Bar, BAJARON Heim Joints, SPYDERPOPS Bumpskid, SMOOTHSPYDER Belt Tensioner, SENA SM10 Dongle, CORBIN Passenger Armrest w. cupholder, UTOPIA Driver Backrest, SPYDERFLAP Mud Flap, STEBEL Nautilus Air Horn, TRICLED Rear Top LED Bar, TRICLED, 3rd & 4th Brake LED, TRICLED Mirror Turn Signal, TRICLED Tricfenderz LED Strip, CUSTOM DYNAMICS Front Mud Flap LED, CUSTOM DYNAMICS Amber Brightsides, CUSTOM DYNAMICS Red Brightsides, CUSTOM DYNAMICS Fender Tips ...
So, let me see if I have this correct...the piston on the REAR caliper on 2012 and prior models gets pushed back in and on the 2013/2014 models gets screwed back in?