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  1. #1
    Very Active Member Flamewinger's Avatar
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    Default Rear caliper question

    What's the trick to getting the piston back in for new pads? The service manual says to "rotate the parking brake lever on the caliper to pullback piston". I can't budge it nor move the piston. I've even tried a c-clamp with no luck. Any ideas?

    Thanks

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    Susie - 2018 RT-Limited with 8400 miles so far . . .
    '13 Spyder ST-L with 21k miles
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  2. #2
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default MAYBE THIS !!!

    I think about a month or so ago someone else here had the same issue .......They made a tool that enabled them to rotate the piston in order to get it to back in..............I think .....Mike

  3. #3
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    The piston needs to be 'screwed' back in - winding the park brake lever should let you do that?! How have you tried doing that??

  4. #4
    Active Member paulbrinker's Avatar
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    Have you tried removing the cap on the brake reservoir? Be careful, it can be messy if the reservoir is full.

  5. #5
    Very Active Member Flamewinger's Avatar
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    I was wondering what the two holes are for in the head of the piston. Possibly for a tool to use to screw it back in, and it is all the way out, what with me playing with it. I've tried the tension lever on the back but it only goes forward and that extends the piston. Yet the service manual says to rotate back to pull piston in. So now I have to find a special tool to see if I can screw it back in. Weird, with my Goldwing I just compressed the pistons back. Oh, Yes I removed the reservoir caps to relieve any pressure.

    Susie - 2018 RT-Limited with 8400 miles so far . . .
    '13 Spyder ST-L with 21k miles
    '04 GL1800 with 91k miles
    '97 GL1500 with 87k miles
    '95 GL1500 with 102k miles
    '89 GL1500 with 96k miles
    '83 GL1100 with 117k miles
    [/COLOR]'81 Honda Silverwing with 36k miles
    '79 Kaw 400LTD with 26k miles
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    Just remember, if common sense is so common, why do few people have it?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flamewinger View Post
    I was wondering what the two holes are for in the head of the piston. Possibly for a tool to use to screw it back in, and it is all the way out, what with me playing with it. I've tried the tension lever on the back but it only goes forward and that extends the piston. Yet the service manual says to rotate back to pull piston in. So now I have to find a special tool to see if I can screw it back in. Weird, with my Goldwing I just compressed the pistons back. Oh, Yes I removed the reservoir caps to relieve any pressure.
    remove the lever and turn the shaft counter clock wise.

  7. #7
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Let's see..!!

    some times you need a "C" clamp to get it back in. You need to open the reservoir especially if you added fluid at any time. Your park brake should be released and reset if adjusted due to pad wear. I don't recommend twisting the pistons just pushing them straight back. Twisting can danage the o rings...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
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  8. #8
    Very Active Member finless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    some times you need a "C" clamp to get it back in. You need to open the reservoir especially if you added fluid at any time. Your park brake should be released and reset if adjusted due to pad wear. I don't recommend twisting the pistons just pushing them straight back. Twisting can danage the o rings...
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  9. #9
    Very Active Member Flamewinger's Avatar
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    Default

    Tried the C-clamp and didn't budge the piston. Even with the reservoirs open. Going to give dealer a call and see if I can get any suggestions (other then "get it towed in"). Also going to get a Piston rotation tool and screw it back in. Since this caliper is also a parking brake.

    Susie - 2018 RT-Limited with 8400 miles so far . . .
    '13 Spyder ST-L with 21k miles
    '04 GL1800 with 91k miles
    '97 GL1500 with 87k miles
    '95 GL1500 with 102k miles
    '89 GL1500 with 96k miles
    '83 GL1100 with 117k miles
    [/COLOR]'81 Honda Silverwing with 36k miles
    '79 Kaw 400LTD with 26k miles
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    Just remember, if common sense is so common, why do few people have it?

  10. #10
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    The parking brake is mechanical. You have to screw the piston back in. Pretty easy to fab up a tool out of a piece of flat stock and 2 bolts.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ivanlee View Post
    remove the lever and turn the shaft counter clock wise.

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Flamewinger's Avatar
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    What "Lever"? What "Shaft"? There is a tensioner on the back side and it only moves forward which extends the piston because its the parking brake.

    Susie - 2018 RT-Limited with 8400 miles so far . . .
    '13 Spyder ST-L with 21k miles
    '04 GL1800 with 91k miles
    '97 GL1500 with 87k miles
    '95 GL1500 with 102k miles
    '89 GL1500 with 96k miles
    '83 GL1100 with 117k miles
    [/COLOR]'81 Honda Silverwing with 36k miles
    '79 Kaw 400LTD with 26k miles
    GWRRA - 39 yrs - Life Member
    AMA - 39 yrs
    Just remember, if common sense is so common, why do few people have it?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flamewinger View Post
    What "Lever"? What "Shaft"? There is a tensioner on the back side and it only moves forward which extends the piston because its the parking brake.
    The lever that's attached to the parking brake cable....reposition the lever so you can turn it in the opposite direction.

  14. #14
    Very Active Member Flamewinger's Avatar
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    Default

    That's the problem, it won't budge in the other direction.


    Susie
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    Susie - 2018 RT-Limited with 8400 miles so far . . .
    '13 Spyder ST-L with 21k miles
    '04 GL1800 with 91k miles
    '97 GL1500 with 87k miles
    '95 GL1500 with 102k miles
    '89 GL1500 with 96k miles
    '83 GL1100 with 117k miles
    [/COLOR]'81 Honda Silverwing with 36k miles
    '79 Kaw 400LTD with 26k miles
    GWRRA - 39 yrs - Life Member
    AMA - 39 yrs
    Just remember, if common sense is so common, why do few people have it?

  15. #15
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    Sorry just noticed yours is a 2013....does it look like the one in the photo? It might be easier to rotate the piston.....or see if you can remove the round thing (bellcrank) that the cable is attached to, then turn the shaft.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by spyryder; 02-16-2015 at 12:45 AM.

  16. #16
    Very Active Member Flamewinger's Avatar
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    Nope that's no where near what it looks like. Here's a picture from the service manual. Since the real thing is in pieces. Resting on some wood under the muffler.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1424065772.049065.jpg


    Susie
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    Susie - 2018 RT-Limited with 8400 miles so far . . .
    '13 Spyder ST-L with 21k miles
    '04 GL1800 with 91k miles
    '97 GL1500 with 87k miles
    '95 GL1500 with 102k miles
    '89 GL1500 with 96k miles
    '83 GL1100 with 117k miles
    [/COLOR]'81 Honda Silverwing with 36k miles
    '79 Kaw 400LTD with 26k miles
    GWRRA - 39 yrs - Life Member
    AMA - 39 yrs
    Just remember, if common sense is so common, why do few people have it?

  17. #17
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Try this..!!

    If you tried a "C" clamp I will assume (risky as that is) you have removed the caliper and park brake cable. On the large plastic disc where the park cable connects you have a nut in the middle. Remove that nut,14mm I believe, and remove the disc this will allow the park brake to fully release. Now if it does not let you push the piston back it may be cocked at an angle (don't force it). If lines are still connected place a block of wood or old pads and a spacer then pump the brakes just enough to move the piston out a bit then try pushing it back. Must be even....
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flamewinger View Post
    Nope that's no where near what it looks like. Here's a picture from the service manual. Since the real thing is in pieces. Resting on some wood under the muffler.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1424065772.049065.jpg


    Susie
    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    You should be able to unbolt that lever then and rotate the shaft....the part with the cable on top and spring on the bottom. don't use a C clamp until the shaft is retracted.
    Last edited by spyryder; 02-16-2015 at 01:14 AM.

  19. #19
    Active Member Lagaffe's Avatar
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    I have an 2013 RT and i does the job last year.

    NEVER use C Clamp on that piston, It's self adjusting.

    You just have to put 2 pins in the holes on the top of the piston and rotate the piston himself with a small bar or a big screwdriver. It's really easy when you have the trick.

    You dont have to move the parking brake shaft at all.

    Good Luck.

    (Please excuse my bad english i'usely speak french)
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  20. #20
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    Flamewinger,

    This will not make you fell better, but I had the same issue last year with my 14. BRP changed the calipers in 13 and they no longer rotate back with the parking brake lever. I tried everything including the C clamp, but was unable to retract the piston. Do not bother renting the piston retraction tools from an auto store as none of the plates fit the Spyder piston.

    I did try two punches that fit into the holes in the piston and a bar between them to rotate the piston, but was unable to move the pistion back.

    What I finally did was remove the caliper and took it to my dealer who was unable to retract it also so they ordered me a new one and installed it under warranty.

    I hope you have better luck!
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  21. #21
    Active Member Lagaffe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PW2013STL View Post
    Flamewinger,

    This will not make you fell better, but I had the same issue last year with my 14. BRP changed the calipers in 13 and they no longer rotate back with the parking brake lever. I tried everything including the C clamp, but was unable to retract the piston. Do not bother renting the piston retraction tools from an auto store as none of the plates fit the Spyder piston.

    I did try two punches that fit into the holes in the piston and a bar between them to rotate the piston, but was unable to move the pistion back.

    What I finally did was remove the caliper and took it to my dealer who was unable to retract it also so they ordered me a new one and installed it under warranty.

    I hope you have better luck!

    It's exactly why i said NEVER USE A C CLAMP... You will broke the small thread between the piston and the caliper. The piston must act like a screw in a nut.
    Silver RT Limited SE5 2013

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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulbrinker View Post
    Have you tried removing the cap on the brake reservoir? Be careful, it can be messy if the reservoir is full.
    I have done this on other bikes.

  23. #23
    SpyderLovers Sponsor SpyderAnn01's Avatar
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    Remove the arm from the parking brake. Use a socket large enough to go over the threaded shaft that the parking brake arm bolts on to. 1 1/8" 1/2" drive socket. That will protect the parking brake shaft while using the C clamp. Position the C clamp so that the piston can be compressed, once snug open the bleeder valve while tightening the C clamp. Ensure that the piston is clean because brake dust can keep the piston from retracting. Compress the piston until flush, close the bleeder valve install your new pads and you are done. We have done it on two bikes this month and it is a royal pain in the rear end! Susie, I hope you have a helper.

    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
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  24. #24
    Active Member Lagaffe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01 View Post
    Remove the arm from the parking brake. Use a socket large enough to go over the threaded shaft that the parking brake arm bolts on to. 1 1/8" 1/2" drive socket. That will protect the parking brake shaft while using the C clamp. Position the C clamp so that the piston can be compressed, once snug open the bleeder valve while tightening the C clamp. Ensure that the piston is clean because brake dust can keep the piston from retracting. Compress the piston until flush, close the bleeder valve install your new pads and you are done. We have done it on two bikes this month and it is a royal pain in the rear end! Susie, I hope you have a helper.

    Ann...

    You can do that on the front calipers only.
    But for the rear brake, you can't use that method on 2013 and 2014 models.
    The piston is screwed into the caliper...
    Silver RT Limited SE5 2013

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  25. #25
    Active Member Biosafena's Avatar
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    So, let me see if I have this correct...the piston on the REAR caliper on 2012 and prior models gets pushed back in and on the 2013/2014 models gets screwed back in?


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