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  1. #26
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default H*LL NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01 View Post
    You did this for the heck of it? You may be a little crazy. We will give it a go but maybe next month. Did you have to take off the fairing (glove box, dash) or just the front trunk and the left and right acoustic panels?
    ...........Ann I may be a liitle strange but I'm not crazy....To answer your questions , No on the glove box , or dash etc......( you have watched the Video's ---right )....Removing the trim under the headlites just makes access to the upper 10mm bolts easier, but not necessary, my side panels etc. are off anyway because of LED wiring etc......Annnnnd I was planning on removing the "FRUNK" to give me access to the tops of the front shocks ( secret project )....So your issue just moved my timeline up a bit.....I forgot to mention earlier that the video m109Dreamer posted for you using the 2013 RT is not accurate ......the 14 Headlite adjusters have been moved out of the way so they don't have to be touched ..........and the ACOUSTIC PANELS you mentioned the LOWER one that pops off has to come off the UPPER I think just the front bolts if you plan to take the trim PANEL below the headlites off...........Hope this clarifies things ...........The Aussie video is probably the best but the sound was bad on mine ??????.........................Mike

  2. #27
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    thanks Mike, we've had most all of the side panels, headlight panel off on mine, we just haven't pulled the trunk or dash. Did it on a 2012 last week but not on the 14.
    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
    2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
    2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
    2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
    2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
    2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
    2010 RT- 622

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01 View Post
    That's what I figured. Nothing is easy on the Spyder



    On the 2014 the air filter is round (think oil filter shaped) and is relatively easy to change. I don't see where you would gain much more access on the 1330 by doing that.

    I think we will wait a while. I'm at 34,600 miles and like someone else pointed out the manual says change at 28,000. I'm not having any issues but was just trying to follow the guidelines for a change!
    I would not recommend going much past the 28000. At that point the iridium tip of the plugs are sure to be eroded and increasing the gap of the plug. This can cause your coils to over work and lead to ignition coil failure, which would make the repair even more expensive. I know the plugs are a pain to change, but it is "preventative maintenance." In this case it is preventing you from having premature coil failure.

  4. #29
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default IRIDIUM PLUGS

    Quote Originally Posted by ACE1330 View Post
    I would not recommend going much past the 28000. At that point the iridium tip of the plugs are sure to be eroded and increasing the gap of the plug. This can cause your coils to over work and lead to ignition coil failure, which would make the repair even more expensive. I know the plugs are a pain to change, but it is "preventative maintenance." In this case it is preventing you from having premature coil failure.
    .....Sir: To the best of my knowledge " IRIDIUM PLUGS " are the longest lasting spark plugs made .........Do you have a factual basis for Stateing the Plugs are sure to be ERODED.......or are you just GUESSING ? ? ?.....................Thank you ,....Mike

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    .....Sir: To the best of my knowledge " IRIDIUM PLUGS " are the longest lasting spark plugs made .........Do you have a factual basis for Stateing the Plugs are sure to be ERODED.......or are you just GUESSING ? ? ?.....................Thank you ,....Mike
    Since you are an NGK engineer and know all there is to know about how long iridium plugs last, I'm sure you thought about the grounding electrode that is NOT iridium... This part of the plug will in fact be burned away by a high energy spark. Yes the iridium plugs do last longer than the standard plug, but NO they do not last forever!!! If you want to let you ignition coils be destroyed by shear stubbornness, go ahead, be my guest, it's your money! Just keep driving the thing until it quits running, and then throw some plugs at it. That's sure to fix it!

  6. #31
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default WELL YOU ASKED FOR IT

    Quote Originally Posted by ACE1330 View Post
    Since you are an NGK engineer and know all there is to know about how long iridium plugs last, I'm sure you thought about the grounding electrode that is NOT iridium... This part of the plug will in fact be burned away by a high energy spark. Yes the iridium plugs do last longer than the standard plug, but NO they do not last forever!!! If you want to let you ignition coils be destroyed by shear stubbornness, go ahead, be my guest, it's your money! Just keep driving the thing until it quits running, and then throw some plugs at it. That's sure to fix it!
    ...Sir: I'm not an NGK engineer , I don't recall saying I was . But I will say this , YOU appear to have an ATTITUDE PROBLEM ...............Mike

  7. #32
    Very Active Member Cruzr Joe's Avatar
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    FOOD FIGHT .............................................




    Anonymous
    2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer

  8. #33
    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
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    This is almost as good as some of our oil "discussions".....
    Two Wheelers from 1963-2011

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  9. #34
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    IMHO- The issue isn't if the plugs will go 100k, it's can you get those 100K mile pugs out of the motor in one piece without destroying them or the motor when you do remove them.

    I'm old school. I do plugs in my cars at 30k and in my bikes at 10k at most. The winter is a good time to spend a bit of quality time with your machine.

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