-
Very Active Member
Castings 2012 Spyder RT Limited
How do you remove the right side footpeg support casting. I have removed all the bolts, master cylinder bolts, top bolts, and the bolts in the back of frame close to the passenger footboard. It is loose but i just can't seem to wiggle it out enough without hitting the frame. The back master cylinder hole tip keep catching on the frame and i'm trying not to pry the M. cylinder to much. I also moved the exhaust pipe and still can't seem to wiggle it out. Some advice from any one that has done this before. Thanks
-
Very Active Member
I will be doing this job very soon as I just got the chrome sides from a Spyder Lover (they are in transit).
From reading here you have to remove the master cylinder.
Bob
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by finless
I will be doing this job very soon as I just got the chrome sides from a Spyder Lover (they are in transit).
From reading here you have to remove the master cylinder.
Bob
I was thinking the same thing. I heard you can pry on the Master cylinder enough to wiggle the casting out pass it. That just aint happening and trying not to pry on it too much. with that plastic top on the cylinder and the brake lines. If you remove the cylinder completely then i'm looking at having to bleed the brake system then i'll definitely will have to go see the dealer to do that.
-
Very Active Member
I don't think you have to bleed it etc. What I read is you loosen the bolts so it's wobbly, unhook the break push rod, remove the bolts and have something or someone help keep it upright, etc.
2 days ago I looked through posts about this. I should have booked marked them for you.
How much of a rush are you in? Again I will be doing this job pretty soon. Say 2 weekends from now. I will be making a video of the process like I always do.
Bob
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
-
Very Active Member
Also I will scan the BRP instructions when I get them. Probably by this weekend.
Bob
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
-
GOS member (Girls On Spyders)
Remove right side casting.
Originally Posted by bronzeflex42
How do you remove the right side footpeg support casting. I have removed all the bolts, master cylinder bolts, top bolts, and the bolts in the back of frame close to the passenger footboard. It is loose but i just can't seem to wiggle it out enough without hitting the frame. The back master cylinder hole tip keep catching on the frame and i'm trying not to pry the M. cylinder to much. I also moved the exhaust pipe and still can't seem to wiggle it out. Some advice from any one that has done this before. Thanks
I'm guessing you've unplugged the 2 electrical connections to the brake switch. Also push the brake hoses (reservoir to master cylinder) out of the clip inside the frame behind the gas tank. Extra slack to push master cylinder forward. Make sure to hold piston in master cylinder. I pushed on piston to push master cylinder out of the way, then twisted bottom of casting towards you while moving the casting backwards. The instructions Finless said he was going to post has a picture that makes this pretty clear. It's not easy but can be done.
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by finless
I don't think you have to bleed it etc. What I read is you loosen the bolts so it's wobbly, unhook the break push rod, remove the bolts and have something or someone help keep it upright, etc.
2 days ago I looked through posts about this. I should have booked marked them for you.
How much of a rush are you in? Again I will be doing this job pretty soon. Say 2 weekends from now. I will be making a video of the process like I always do.
Bob
Thanks for the info. I will be looking out for the video cause i might still be working with it.
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Hammie
I'm guessing you've unplugged the 2 electrical connections to the brake switch. Also push the brake hoses (reservoir to master cylinder) out of the clip inside the frame behind the gas tank. Extra slack to push master cylinder forward. Make sure to hold piston in master cylinder. I pushed on piston to push master cylinder out of the way, then twisted bottom of casting towards you while moving the casting backwards. The instructions Finless said he was going to post has a picture that makes this pretty clear. It's not easy but can be done.
Thanks for the info. That's the hose im afraid to take loose. If you take that hose loose will that allow air in the line? Which would require bleeding the brakes? That would give me enough room i think to push the cylinder some more. thanks
-
GOS member (Girls On Spyders)
Brake hoses.
Originally Posted by bronzeflex42
Thanks for the info. That's the hose im afraid to take loose. If you take that hose loose will that allow air in the line? Which would require bleeding the brakes? That would give me enough room i think to push the cylinder some more. thanks
Don't take them loose from master cylinder. This will let air in and require bleeding system which dealer tells me is labor intensive. Just slide them out of the clip to get some extra slack.
-
Active Member
give me a call and I'll explain to you what I did to swap out side casting 502-640-5315
-
Very Active Member
I got my chrome castings yesterday but I have had a bad cold this week so wont be installing them this weekend. I will try to do it next weekend and will shoot a video of the process. That is if I too can figure it out
Let me know if you need me to scan the instructions and post a PDF here.
Bob
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|