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  1. #1
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Default Look at what I made this morning.

    I put together a powered 5 to 4 converter trailer harness this morning. It's for my 2013 ST limited.

    IMG_20150131_152712.jpg

    I plan on getting my Spyder out of storage in about a week and then I will find out if it fits.

    Here are the basic parts I started with.

    IMG_20150131_102146.jpg

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Well done..!!

    finished product looks very pro but what you started out with looks scary... patience for sure...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Good job! With all the different aftermarket ends and the changes BRP has done through the years, and the prohibitive cost on adaptors if you can get one, you might have found a way to make some extra money!

  4. #4
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    One thing you failed to put into the 2nd picture. A crimp tool special for the plug pins.
    2021 F3 Ltd , Magna Red

  5. #5
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys View Post
    Good job! With all the different aftermarket ends and the changes BRP has done through the years, and the prohibitive cost on adaptors if you can get one, you might have found a way to make some extra money!
    I don't think this will be a start of a commercial venture. I don't have the patience to make a lot more of these. I was forced to make my own because BRPs harness in 3 pieces and to buy it in parts would be about $250. The only aftermarket one that i could find was 5 wire output and was not plug and play.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  6. #6
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flamewinger View Post
    One thing you failed to put into the 2nd picture. A crimp tool special for the plug pins.
    I did not buy the crimping tool. Just could not justify paying that much for a tool I would rarely ever use. I used pliers which did not give me a good crimp so I soldered them as well. The crimp around the seal looked good with needlenose pliers and a little practice. Also not in the picture was the 20 ga. wire I used to Y the leads and the piece of split wire loom that I did not decide to use until I was nearly done.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  7. #7
    Very Active Member ahh-cool's Avatar
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    looks good.
    What are the part numbers for the connector and pins


  8. #8
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahh-cool View Post
    looks good.
    What are the part numbers for the connector and pins
    The connectors are the Delphi GT 150 series.

    10 WAY MALE SEALED GT 150 CONNECTOR DELPHI 15326847
    10 WAY FEMALE SEALED GT 150 CONNECTOR DELPHI 15326842
    22-20GA MALE TERMINAL GT 150 DELPHI 15326268
    22-20GA FEMALE TERMINAL GT 150 DELPHI 12191818
    CAVITY PLUG GT 150 CONNECTORS DELPHI 15305171
    22-20GA WHITE CABLE SEAL DELPHI 15366021


    I did not order the blue seal. I worked around it. If you plan on using 16 ga wire like BRP you will need them for power and ground wire.


    18-16GA BLUE CABLE SEAL GT 150 DELPHI 15366060

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  9. #9
    Very Active Member bscrive's Avatar
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    Looks good Billy and it looks like it was made professionally.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member ahh-cool's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    The connectors are the Delphi GT 150 series.

    10 WAY MALE SEALED GT 150 CONNECTOR DELPHI 15326847
    10 WAY FEMALE SEALED GT 150 CONNECTOR DELPHI 15326842
    22-20GA MALE TERMINAL GT 150 DELPHI 15326268
    22-20GA FEMALE TERMINAL GT 150 DELPHI 12191818
    CAVITY PLUG GT 150 CONNECTORS DELPHI 15305171
    22-20GA WHITE CABLE SEAL DELPHI 15366021


    I did not order the blue seal. I worked around it. If you plan on using 16 ga wire like BRP you will need them for power and ground wire.


    18-16GA BLUE CABLE SEAL GT 150 DELPHI 15366060
    Thank you
    Stefan


  11. #11
    Very Active Member ahh-cool's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    I put together a powered 5 to 4 converter trailer harness this morning. It's for my 2013 ST limited.

    IMG_20150131_152712.jpg
    Excuse my ignorance, but in the pix you are showing 2 connectors on the bike side. I thought there was only one.
    The module, what exactly is it and do I need it?
    On my hitch the space where the wire connector goes is round. Do I make a plate or do I put in some other connector?
    Stefan
    20150203_230437.jpg


  12. #12
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    OK, if you can do it maybe so can I.

    Any pic's on the soldered pin? and What are those tiny green thingies for? Cavity plug? Where?

    Thanks
    2021 F3 Ltd , Magna Red

  13. #13
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahh-cool View Post
    Excuse my ignorance, but in the pix you are showing 2 connectors on the bike side. I thought there was only one.
    The module, what exactly is it and do I need it?
    On my hitch the space where the wire connector goes is round. Do I make a plate or do I put in some other connector?
    Stefan
    20150203_230437.jpg
    My harness hooks up the same place as BRP does it. There is a connector between the main harness and the harness going to all the rear lights. The trailer harness goes between this connector.

    The module I used has 2 functions. 1st it is a converter to merge the brake and turn functions. The Spyder has separate amber turn signals and red brake lights. Most trailers are wired that the brake and turn functions are merged in red. This changes the number of wires needed at the trailer plug from 5 to 4. So if your trailer is 5 wire you don't need a converter or if it is 4 you do. 2nd purpose of the module is to isolate the trailer wiring from the Spyder. There is a 10 amp power line in the plug provided by BRP for this purpose to power the isolator. So if something happens to the trailer wiring and a short occurs. The 10 amp fuse for the isolator will blow and the trailer lights will fail but the Spyder lights will be unaffected. I feel this is a good idea.

    My hitch came yesterday and does not have a bracket like yours. I have not figured out how I am going to mount the plug. Just have not got there yet.
    Last edited by billybovine; 02-04-2015 at 11:23 AM.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  14. #14
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flamewinger View Post
    OK, if you can do it maybe so can I.

    Any pic's on the soldered pin? and What are those tiny green thingies for? Cavity plug? Where?

    Thanks
    Sorry no pics of the pins before or after soldering.
    The green thingies are cavity plugs. Just push them in the back where no wire is needed. On a ST there are 5 & 4 empty slots. On a RT there should be 4 & 3 empty slots because of the backup lights.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  15. #15
    Very Active Member ahh-cool's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    My harness hooks up the same place as BRP does it. There is a connector between the main harness and the harness going to all the rear lights. The trailer harness goes between this connector.

    The module I used has 2 functions. 1st it is a converter to merge the brake and turn functions. The Spyder has separate amber turn signals and red brake lights. Most trailers are wired that the brake and turn functions are merged in red. This changes the number of wires needed at the trailer plug from 5 to 4. So if your trailer is 5 wire you don't need a converter or if it is 4 you do.
    I see the connector "RTL" & "LTL" which is the connector before that that I need to tie into?

    If you wire it with the module and you get a trailer with 5 wires, will it work?
    Thanks,
    Stefan


  16. #16
    Very Active Member ahh-cool's Avatar
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    Which connector are we hooking into? In the wiring diagram I found the power output trailer coming off of fuse 7. it appears to connect to CIC2-H.
    Am I connecting it to CIC2?
    Stefan


  17. #17
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahh-cool View Post
    I see the connector "RTL" & "LTL" which is the connector before that that I need to tie into?

    If you wire it with the module and you get a trailer with 5 wires, will it work?
    Thanks,
    Stefan
    If you just get an insolation module that is 5 wire to 5 wire that should work. Not sure where you would get one. Once you combine the brake and turn functions you really can't split them again.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  18. #18
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahh-cool View Post
    Which connector are we hooking into? In the wiring diagram I found the power output trailer coming off of fuse 7. it appears to connect to CIC2-H.
    Am I connecting it to CIC2?
    Stefan
    Yes you split connector CIC2 and put new harness in between.

    Pins are as follows:
    A Ground
    B Tail/running lights
    C Brake lights
    D Backup lights
    E Right turn signal
    F Left turn signal
    H 12V power fused 10 amp.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  19. #19
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Default Installed

    I installed the harness today. A few pictures.

    Found connector CIC2


    Split connector


    My harness plugged in.


    Testing before finishing the install.
    Attached Images Attached Images

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    My harness hooks up the same place as BRP does it. There is a connector between the main harness and the harness going to all the rear lights. The trailer harness goes between this connector.

    The module I used has 2 functions. 1st it is a converter to merge the brake and turn functions. The Spyder has separate amber turn signals and red brake lights. Most trailers are wired that the brake and turn functions are merged in red. This changes the number of wires needed at the trailer plug from 5 to 4. So if your trailer is 5 wire you don't need a converter or if it is 4 you do. 2nd purpose of the module is to isolate the trailer wiring from the Spyder. There is a 10 amp power line in the plug provided by BRP for this purpose to power the isolator. So if something happens to the trailer wiring and a short occurs. The 10 amp fuse for the isolator will blow and the trailer lights will fail but the Spyder lights will be unaffected. I feel this is a good idea.

    My hitch came yesterday and does not have a bracket like yours. I have not figured out how I am going to mount the plug. Just have not got there yet.
    Not sure if this will help you mounting your flat four connector. I am planning on mounting a flat four to the spyder Rt trailer hitch using REESE 4-way flat universal mounting bracket. no drilling just use zip ties.
    a friend used this method here is a link and a picture of it installed. I bought it at Canadian Tire and also have seen them at TSC stores too. Canadian Tire Part# 78096

    http://www.reeseprod.com/products/el...pII2goF4KknN0=
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  21. #21
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marker View Post
    Not sure if this will help you mounting your flat four connector. I am planning on mounting a flat four to the spyder Rt trailer hitch using REESE 4-way flat universal mounting bracket. no drilling just use zip ties.
    a friend used this method here is a link and a picture of it installed. I bought it at Canadian Tire and also have seen them at TSC stores too. Canadian Tire Part# 78096

    http://www.reeseprod.com/products/el...pII2goF4KknN0=
    Thanks, that may be just the thing I need to make the install look good.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  22. #22
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    I decided to mount it on the fender.



    Thanks Marker for the idea.
    Attached Images Attached Images

    2018 F3 LIMITED

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