Rotella T-6 Full Synthetic

[Highwayman2013]

Rotella T6 should be fine in a 1330 engine. It does not meet the spec of being a motorcycle specific oil but all other specs are OK. Cannot be used in a 998 engine.

BRP specifically states to use a synthetic blended or full synthetic oil, 5W40. It is real funny how because BRP does not recommend using their full synthetic because it is 0W40 it get expanded to no synthetic allowed WOW.

How does it not meet the spec of a motorcycle oil? It is rated JASO MA.

[billybovine]

How does it not meet the spec of a motorcycle oil? It is rated JASO MA.

Don't change what I said. T6 is a general purpose engine oil not a motorcycle specific oil. It only has a JASO MA rating. If you think that is good enough, go for it.

[jcthorne]

No, Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic IS JASO MA2 rated. Data sheet linked below.

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC...en-US)_TDS.pdf

[JayBros]

Looking at the tech data sheet the oil meets API service classifications SL, SJ, SH. Those are three of the four classifications listed in the 2014 RT operator's guide. That ought to be enough to float some people's boats.

[Richardv]

Thanks Bayaron for the quick, clear and concise answer. Really do appreciate it.

Richard

[Mazo EMS2]

I am not trying to start any oil war here. My dealer does not carry any 5-40 full synthetic oil in stock. He recommended Bel Ray 5-40 for me to buy. They recommend against, as per BRP, using any full synthetic. But, if I bring it in, they will use it. My question is. Of those using the Shell Rotella 5-40 full synthetic. Have you noticed any difference from the stock BRP semi syn.? How long do you run it? I see myself needing an oil change once a year. No where near the 9200 mile mark for a change. Another brand I am leaning toward is "Motorex". Made in Switzerland.
Any input? Tom

I used the Rotella in my previous bike and had great luck with it. I just put it in the Spyder and so far seems to shift a bit smoother that it did with the BRP semi syn.

[BajaRon]

I've been using Castrol 5w40 Power RS Racing 4T full synthetic oil for almost 23K miles now. No problems at all. In the beginning I was just looking for an oil that I could buy locally and that is why I went with the Castrol. I can't confirm it but I have read many times that Castrol makes all of BRP's oils and lubes.

That is a JASO MA2 rated oil. Not the only criteria that matters. But to a 998 Rotax motor, a very important criteria.

[jerpinoy]

The best forum really.Thank you guys for all the posts.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROTELLA-5500...572250&vxp=mtr


for those that want a deal plus

......To the best of my knowledge T-6 only comes in 5W-40 ...and $ 206 for 5 gallons is a Total rip-off......I pay about $ 25.00 per gallon at Wallmart , so X 5 = $ 125.00 .....................Mike

[Rockwall]

No one should be able to tell any performance difference in oil. My dealer uses full synthetic as per BRP.

[Jeriatric]

Rotella T6 should be fine in a 1330 engine. It does not meet the spec of being a motorcycle specific oil but all other specs are OK. Cannot be used in a 998 engine.

BRP specifically states to use a synthetic blended or full synthetic oil, 5W40. It is real funny how because BRP does not recommend using their full synthetic because it is 0W40 it get expanded to no synthetic allowed WOW.

QUICK ANSWER: Because BRP stated in their manual what type, weight and classification of oil can be used, its your personal and financial choice to make as to which manufacture to use. I will add that as a good maintenance practice, you should be consistent with using the same manufacture.

My 2010 - 2011 BRP Shop Manual states (on page 50) that if BRP XPS Oil is not available, you can use "...ANY 5W 40 synthetic motorcycle oil that meets the requirements for API service SL, SJ, SH, SG or higher classification...". There is a "Notice" to not use oil that meets API service SM or ILSAC GF-4 classification because clutch slippage will occur (998 engines). This "Notice" should be absent for the 1330 engines due to the engine/clutch being redesigned.

As long as you follow what BRP states is acceptable for their product, you are fine. Remember, you can't go wrong following what BRP says you can use on their product - not what is used on some other bike.

Hope this helps make it clearer....

I used it on my 09 GS and the clutch started to slip at about 2000 miles. Good luck!!!

Agreed, the Rotella T6 is a fine choice for the 1330 engines. Not so much for the v-twins with the centrifugal clutch.

998 driver here

It all comes down to communication

[jcthorne]

That was old information prior to BRP revised specs. Things change.....

[Jeriatric]

That was old information prior to BRP revised specs. Things change.....

Understood.

I honestly don't believe BRP has changed oil requirements for the 2008/2013 V Twin 998's.

And will stand by to hear from anyone who decides to run API M, N oil in there 998.

Not being argumentative. Just have first hand knowledge of the consequences.

[Eckhard]

Waiting to hear if T6 is good for a 998.

[jcthorne]

EVERY 998 that gets a dealer oil change in the last year or so has had oil installed with SN rating. What more evidence do you want? yes I have personal experience using it but that pales in comparison to the number of bikes already done across the dealer network.

[Jeriatric]

Waiting to hear if T6 is good for a 998.

Here's my experience. By complete accident but, my fault. I use T6 in my FJR. I always carry oil for it, and the Spyder. For space saving reasons I keep it in large squeezable, well sealing plastic mustard bottles. One for the FJR, and one for the Spyder(T6 in one & Amsoil in the other). So, we had been doing some housekeeping on both bikes(everything including the mustard bottles were stacked on a table) in a moment of brain freeze, I grabbed the wrong mustard bottle and emptied its contents into the Spyder. Very soon thereafter, the SE5 clutch started slipping. Damn me!

Well, I did some research and found that Lamont had had a similar problem with a 998(save he intentionally added new oil - that was NOT the recommended API class) and his clutch slipped too.

Per his post comments(still searchable here) he soon drained and replaced that oil with the recommended API for the 998. He said, after lots of miles and several oil changes(if I remember - around 25K later - it stopped slipping). Well, that didn't happen for me, even tho I had put far less oil in mine. I ended up replacing the clutch pack. Bye Bye $1000.00.

The choice is yours.

The mistake.........was mine

EDIT: Lamonts Post........... https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...lipping+clutch

See his post #1 & #24.

Now ... stop trolling me over oil for the 998's. I'm done with it! < In NO way was THIS directed towards @Eckhard