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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe View Post
    I have not taken it out for a ride yet so i don't know


    Cruzr Joe
    Riding it shouldn't matter. If you have it installed and you turn on your bike, is the warning light on and does it stay on?

  2. #27
    Very Active Member Cruzr Joe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by machead View Post
    Riding it shouldn't matter. If you have it installed and you turn on your bike, is the warning light on and does it stay on?

    Turned the bike on and let it run for a minute ............................ Warning light stays red.

    (Note: I do not have the third wire (yellow) connected)

    Cruzr Joe
    Last edited by Cruzr Joe; 01-13-2015 at 11:17 AM.
    2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer

  3. #28
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    I tried reading on the wesite about the gauge but it doesnt give any info about the warning light and at what voltage it would come on. I would assume it would come on when it gets too low and also if it gets too high.
    2007 M109R LE - To many MODS to list. Its cheaper that way!!!

  4. #29
    Very Active Member Cruzr Joe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M109Dreamer View Post
    I tried reading on the wesite about the gauge but it doesnt give any info about the warning light and at what voltage it would come on. I would assume it would come on when it gets too low and also if it gets too high.

    Instructions say lower than 11V or Higher than 16V for 3 seconds or more and the warning light will come on, i am assuming that means if all three wires are connected.


    Cruzr Joe
    2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer

  5. #30
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe View Post
    Instructions say lower than 11V or Higher than 16V for 3 seconds or more and the warning light will come on, i am assuming that means if all three wires are connected.


    Cruzr Joe
    I am wondering if it is staying on because the yellow wire is not ran back to the battery. I bet thats what that wire is suppose to do.
    2007 M109R LE - To many MODS to list. Its cheaper that way!!!

  6. #31
    Very Active Member zuni's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by finless View Post
    One the right side there are 4 wires that go to the stock gauge. 3 are in the triangular connector. One is a stab on connector. This stab on connector powers the light bulb in the stock gauge.

    Of the 3 wires on the triangular connector the white one is the signal wire to the cluster. You do not hook that to anything or it may signal the cluster a gauge is hooked up. There is a black wire. This is ground and goes to the black wire on this voltage gauge. I used a posi-tap. The other wire (orange with a stripe) is 12V that powers the gauge. I would not use that even though you could. I tapped into the single stab on wire used to power the light in the stock gauge.

    Bottom line the new voltage gauge has 3 wires (red, yellow, black):

    Red = hook to 12V switched - Again I hooked this to the single stab on wire using a posi-tap.

    Black = Hook to ground - Again I hooked this to the black wire on the triangular connector using a posti-tap.

    Yellow = you are suppose to hook this to a always on 12V source. Unfortunately there is none at the stock gauge connector. You only hook this up if you want the power down animation. If you don't hook this up the gauge still works fine you just do not get the power down animation and only get the power up animation as my video shows. If you want the fancy power down animation then run this yellow wire to a always on 12V wire.

    Personally about the yellow wire, I would not hook that up as it means the gauge can draw power when the key is switched off (that's how it does the power down animation). I think it might draw a little power over time off your battery which I prefer not to have when the spyder is parked for long periods. I could check this with an AMP meter to be sure but I didn't. I don't care if I have a power down animation so again I just did not hook this up.

    Finally, no it wont mess with the cluster and cause your digital gauges to go away if you hook it up as I explained.

    Hope that answers the question?


    Bob

    Bob,
    Did you try tying the red and yellow together to see if it would turn off the warning light? This looks like a future project for me. Right now I have suspended farkling until the F3s is in the garage.

    CJ JAX

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by M109Dreamer View Post
    I tried reading on the wesite about the gauge but it doesnt give any info about the warning light and at what voltage it would come on. I would assume it would come on when it gets too low and also if it gets too high.
    According to the 1 page doc that comes with the gauge, the warning light is supposed to only come on when the voltage drops below 11v or rises about 16v for more than 3 seconds. Other than that, I see nothing else about the light. No adjustment that I can see.

    When I connect the gauge to my bench dc power supply, connection of the yellow wire (constant 12v positive) made no difference. Tried it with the yellow wire connected and not connected. The warning light stayed on all the time.
    Last edited by machead; 01-13-2015 at 06:19 PM.

  8. #33
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    Ok I may have solved the non-issue that I've started here. Looks like the warning light stays on all the time UNTIL the voltage drops below 11v (at least that is all I can test with my bench).

    Here is what I have done.

    Connected the gauge to my DC power (red to positive, black to negative and yellow to positive). I disconnect/connect the red wire to turn the gauge off and on.

    My DC power outputs 13.9v and that is what is read on the gauge. Warning light stays on.

    I put a 100ohm resistor inline with the red wire. This brought the voltage down to 12v as read by the gauge. Warning light stays on.

    I put another 100ohm resistor inline with red wire (total of 200 ohms inline now) and that brought the voltage down to 10.7v. Since that is below the preset 11v low end, the digital number display flashes and the warning light flashes.

    So it looks like when the voltage is within 11v to 16v the warning light is meant to stay on all the time.


    I then did the tests again with the yellow wire disconnected. Got some same results and some interesting results.

    Test 1: 13.9v read, warning light on steady
    Test 2: 100Ohms inline = The digital numbers flashed between 11.0v and 10.3v. Back and forth between the two numbers. The warning light also flashing.
    Test 3: 200Ohms inline = The digital numbers flashed between 9.4v and 8.3v. Again back and forth between the two numbers and the warning light also flashing.

    To me it looks like the yellow wire needs to be connected to get an accurate reading. That is my .10939 cents worth (adjusted for the economy of course)
    Last edited by machead; 01-13-2015 at 07:11 PM.

  9. #34
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by machead View Post
    Ok I may have solved the non-issue that I've started here. Looks like the warning light stays on all the time UNTIL the voltage drops below 11v (at least that is all I can test with my bench).

    Here is what I have done.

    Connected the gauge to my DC power (red to positive, black to negative and yellow to positive). I disconnect/connect the red wire to turn the gauge off and on.

    My DC power outputs 13.9v and that is what is read on the gauge. Warning light stays on.

    I put a 100ohm resistor inline with the red wire. This brought the voltage down to 12v as read by the gauge. Warning light stays on.

    I put another 100ohm resistor inline with red wire (total of 200 ohms inline now) and that brought the voltage down to 10.7v. Since that is below the preset 11v low end, the digital number display flashes and the warning light flashes.

    So it looks like when the voltage is within 11v to 16v the warning light is meant to stay on all the time.
    Thanks for figuring it out. Kinda makes since. I guess you really wouldnt need the little light to come on when the voltage drops if the digital indication is blinking as well?
    2007 M109R LE - To many MODS to list. Its cheaper that way!!!

  10. #35
    Very Active Member finless's Avatar
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    The instructions suck. That is not really a warning light.

    What actually happens is this and YES you need the yellow wire connected to always on power if you want this to work.
    Remember what I said, if the yellow wire is not connected then you wont get the fancy power down animation.
    You also will not get the low voltage warning when the key is off (red wire has no power).
    But that yellow wire is what powers the gauge when the key is off (red wire has no power).

    Anyway what actually happens is if the voltage drops below the threshold, the gauge will remain ON and flash at you EVEN if the red wire is off (key is off so no 12V to it). That is the actual warning! The red LED is always on. If you do not have the yellow wire hooked to always on 12V then it has no way to stay on and warn you if the key is off!

    Make sense now?

    I did not hook the yellow wire up as
    1) I did not like this idea. It means the gauge is probably drawing a little power when the key is off. If you store the bike a long long time it "may" drain the battery!
    2) I don't care about the power down animation
    3) I don't need a gauge to power up drawing power to warn me, especially if the battery is already low! It will just drain it lower if I am not there to see it warn me!
    That is my thinking anyway.

    So yes if you want this low voltage warning you need to hook the yellow wire to always on power! If you hook the yellow to the red and it's goes off with the key, then you wont get the warning feature!


    Hope that all makes sense? And also yes I had to do the same tests as I did not understand the red LED and the instructions. I have a variable volt power supply so that is how I tested.

    Bob
    Last edited by finless; 01-13-2015 at 08:49 PM.
    2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
    Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
    Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
    2011 RT-S SM5 , Baja Ron Black

  11. #36
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by finless View Post
    The instructions suck. That is not really a warning light.

    What actually happens is this and YES you need the yellow wire connected to always on power if you want this to work.
    Remember what I said, if the yellow wire is not connected then you wont get the fancy power down animation.
    You also will not get the low voltage warning when the key is off (red wire has no power).
    But that yellow wire is what powers the gauge when the key is off (red wire has no power).

    Anyway what actually happens is if the voltage drops below the threshold, the gauge will remain ON and flash at you EVEN if the red wire is off (key is off so no 12V to it). That is the actual warning! The red LED is always on. If you do not have the yellow wire hooked to always on 12V then it has no way to stay on and warn you if the key is off!

    Make sense now?

    I did not hook the yellow wire up as
    1) I did not like this idea. It means the gauge is probably drawing a little power when the key is off. If you store the bike a long long time it "may" drain the battery!
    2) I don't care about the power down animation
    3) I don't need a gauge to power up drawing power to warn me, especially if the battery is already low! It will just drain it lower if I am not there to see it warn me!
    That is my thinking anyway.

    So yes if you want this low voltage warning you need to hook the yellow wire to always on power! If you hook the yellow to the red and it's goes off with the key, then you wont get the warning feature!


    Hope that all makes sense? And also yes I had to do the same tests as I did not understand the red LED and the instructions. I have a variable volt power supply so that is how I tested.

    Bob
    I got it now, thanks. I agree with you on not running the yellow wire. Dont need a draw on the battery. And if I want to know what the current reading is I'll just turn the key on and read it.

    Have you noticed, when you crank the spyder if the gauge reads quick enough to show on the digital reading the amount of load/draw on the battery when your cranking it?

    Was thinking if you were able to read it while cranking it, to see how low it goes before it rises back up. All of my previous batteries, I could tell before they were really going bad by watching how low they would drop while cranking the bike.
    2007 M109R LE - To many MODS to list. Its cheaper that way!!!

  12. #37
    Very Active Member Cruzr Joe's Avatar
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    yes the volt meter drops when you are cranking.


    Cruzr Joe
    2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer

  13. #38
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe View Post
    yes the volt meter drops when you are cranking.


    Cruzr Joe
    Good deal. Thanks.
    2007 M109R LE - To many MODS to list. Its cheaper that way!!!

  14. #39
    Very Active Member ahh-cool's Avatar
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    So, are you guys saying that you have a red idiot light on when it's working normal?

    Bob, If I bought a 60mm gauge would I be able to enlarge the hole?
    I found some combo gauges that I like but they are 60mm.
    Stefan


  15. #40
    Very Active Member Cruzr Joe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahh-cool View Post
    So, are you guys saying that you have a red idiot light on when it's working normal?

    Bob, If I bought a 60mm gauge would I be able to enlarge the hole?
    I found some combo gauges that I like but they are 60mm.
    Stefan

    you could probably enlarge the front hole but the new gauge may not fit into the recess in the dash.


    Cruzr Joe
    2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer

  16. #41
    Very Active Member ahh-cool's Avatar
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  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahh-cool View Post
    So, are you guys saying that you have a red idiot light on when it's working normal?
    Looks that way.

  18. #43
    Very Active Member finless's Avatar
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    The red idiot light is actually NOT a red idiot light!
    I know... You are thinking it should be. But the gauge does not work that way. Personally this red LED should not even be there in my opinion because it is misleading. Ask the Chinese that put it there

    BUT SO WHAT? They gauge does what we need regardless of one LED. I ain't complaining because it is a beautiful gauge and tells you exactly what you need. After having mine on now for over a week, no way is it coming out!

    Yes it shows the voltage while cranking! It also goes into warning on me while cranking because it is TIME to replace my battery as I said in another battery thread going on here.

    Anyway.... I hope those that got this gauge are enjoying them. I know I am.

    As for 60mm gauges... I also worry about if they will fit the recesses of the cluster box vs just the front panel which can be easily modded for 60mm. It's pretty tight! But it might actually work.

    Next time I have the front bezel off, I will measure the holes.

    Bob
    Last edited by finless; 01-15-2015 at 11:11 PM.
    2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
    Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
    Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
    2011 RT-S SM5 , Baja Ron Black

  19. #44
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Just got mine today. Will put it in this weekend. Now to decide what she wants on the other side.
    2007 M109R LE - To many MODS to list. Its cheaper that way!!!

  20. #45
    Very Active Member finless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M109Dreamer View Post
    Just got mine today. Will put it in this weekend. Now to decide what she wants on the other side.
    I swear and please have a look....

    A RAM ball on the other side allows Sooooooo many options for things. See my video on my GPS/12 volt setup. When nothing is on the RAM ball it looks kind of ugly but if you really need a RAM mount it's freakin perfect because things with "screens" are "under the hood" of the dash and out of the sun.

    Otherwise a few guys have added an oil pressure gauge but that is not as easy as popping in a 12V gauge. I personally do not need that info on my dash as it does not mean a lot. I also was considering a clock but we have one on the cluster. After looking at a lot of other gauges... I never found something that floated my boat and was worth while. If you find something PLEASE let us know. In the mean time my RAM ball will be in the "other" spot.
    Special thanks to Stevedfive for the idea!

    Bob
    Last edited by finless; 01-15-2015 at 11:14 PM.
    2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
    Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
    Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
    2011 RT-S SM5 , Baja Ron Black

  21. #46
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by finless View Post
    I swear and please have a look....

    A RAM ball on the other side allows Sooooooo many options for things. See my video on my GPS/12 volt setup. When nothing is on the RAM ball it looks kind of ugly but if you really need a RAM mount it's freakin perfect because things with "screens" are "under" the hood of the dash and out of the sun.

    Otherwise a few guys have added an oil pressure gauge but that is not as easy as popping in a 12V gauge. I personally don not need that info on my dash. I also was considering a clock but we have one on the cluster. After looking at a lot of other gauges... I never found something that floated my boat and was worth while. If you find something PLEASE let us know. In the mean time my RAM ball will be in the "other" spot.

    Bob
    I was thinking of a Ram Ball but she already has 2 on the handlebars. But I think she would like one for her phone better there like you said. What did you use for "blank" plate for the hole? I have read that that the stock plates are too flimsy and was worried if it would a phone on a XGrip there securely?
    2007 M109R LE - To many MODS to list. Its cheaper that way!!!

  22. #47
    Very Active Member finless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M109Dreamer View Post
    I was thinking of a Ram Ball but she already has 2 on the handlebars. But I think she would like one for her phone better there like you said. What did you use for "blank" plate for the hole? I have read that that the stock plates are too flimsy and was worried if it would a phone on a XGrip there securely?
    See my video here for info on the "blank hole" Super simple!

    The very beginning of the video shows how I did the SIMPLE ram mount.



    This is almost as simple as putting in the 12V gauge

    Bob
    2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
    Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
    Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
    2011 RT-S SM5 , Baja Ron Black

  23. #48
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by finless View Post
    See my video here for info on the "blank hole" Super simple!

    The very beginning of the video shows how I did the SIMPLE ram mount.



    This is almost as simple as putting in the 12V gauge

    Bob
    Thanks!
    2007 M109R LE - To many MODS to list. Its cheaper that way!!!

  24. #49
    Very Active Member finless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M109Dreamer View Post
    Thanks!
    Your welcome!

    Please share what you did and what worked for you.
    I for one would be interested in your ideas as I always like others perspectives and ideas!

    Bob
    Last edited by finless; 01-15-2015 at 11:33 PM.
    2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
    Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
    Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
    2011 RT-S SM5 , Baja Ron Black

  25. #50
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by finless View Post
    Your welcome!

    Please share what you did and what worked for you.
    I for one would be interested in your ideas as I always like others perspectives and idea!

    Bob
    Will do. The wife has already been looking at cameras to watch the dog on the back seat. She really wants a setup like Cincy (sp?) has.
    2007 M109R LE - To many MODS to list. Its cheaper that way!!!

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