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Very Active Member
MAINTENANCE QUESTION
I try to do much of my own maintenance when I can. I noticed in my owners manual that it said to lube the front suspension arms at a certain mileage. Are these the arms under each front shock that connect to the ball joint in each wheel? I looked at mine and did not see a grease fitting. Am I looking in the wrong place? I ride a '13 ST-S.
2020 F3 Ltd
Spyderpops Bumpskid
Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights
2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
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Very Active Member
8
there are 8 fittings, 2 up, 2 down, at the ends of the A arms....
whomever design this system and put 'straight up' grease fittings needs to have his/her head tightened up.... i R&R mine with 90 deg. fittings...
dp
PS: mine is an '09 RS...
Last edited by SPYD3R; 12-16-2014 at 08:25 PM.
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Very Active Member
are the same fittings on the 14 RT's as well ???
OSM
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Active Member
You're close.
Look at the opposite end where it connects to the frame of the bike. There's four points to grease on each side.
Not sure about the ST, but on the RT its just about a requirement to take off the frunk to get to the grease zerts. Thankfully, its not all that hard to take off the frunk.
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Very Active Member
I guess I don't know what I'm looking for. I looked at the ends of the A arms under the frunk with a flashlight and didn't see any zerks fittings. The ends under the frunk look just like the ends that join at the wheel.
2020 F3 Ltd
Spyderpops Bumpskid
Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights
2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
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Very Active Member
AND THE REASON IS !!!!!!!!
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Very Active Member
I have purchased 90' and 45' zerks and when it comes time to lube them I am going to remove the fronk and swap them out for the ones that work the best for the location. But Im a little timid in the fact that I havent pulled the fronk before, but there is always a first I guess.
2007 M109R LE - To many MODS to list. Its cheaper that way!!!
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Have faith and go for it
Originally Posted by M109Dreamer
I have purchased 90' and 45' zerks and when it comes time to lube them I am going to remove the fronk and swap them out for the ones that work the best for the location. But Im a little timid in the fact that I havent pulled the fronk before, but there is always a first I guess.
Build a sloping platform at a similar angle to the bottom of the "frunk" and cover it with a piece of scrap carpet. Slide this under the "frunk" to support it. The following is the listed disassembly order to remove the "frunk". Remove the mirrors. Remove service covers. Remove middle side panels. Remove top side panels. Remove front fascia. Remove 2 T-30 retaining screws on both sides of the "frunk" and 4 more T-30 retaining screws under the black service panels . Now disconnect all the odd connectors above both shocks. Take the two small bolts out of the hood switch. You will break it if you try to remove the connectors. Disconnect the storage cover actuator connector and finally disconnect the storage cover cable. Now remove 2 10 MM bolts underneath the "frunk" and it is ready to slide the support you made under it. Lift it off by sliding the support in. I routinely do this as a one man project. As you disassemble things, put the bolts in Ziploc bags and label them in them in the order they were removed. It's not a piece of cake but it is very doable.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Ben Burped
Build a sloping platform at a similar angle to the bottom of the "frunk" and cover it with a piece of scrap carpet. Slide this under the "frunk" to support it. The following is the listed disassembly order to remove the "frunk". Remove the mirrors. Remove service covers. Remove middle side panels. Remove top side panels. Remove front fascia. Remove 2 T-30 retaining screws on both sides of the "frunk" and 4 more T-30 retaining screws under the black service panels . Now disconnect all the odd connectors above both shocks. Take the two small bolts out of the hood switch. You will break it if you try to remove the connectors. Disconnect the storage cover actuator connector and finally disconnect the storage cover cable. Now remove 2 10 MM bolts underneath the "frunk" and it is ready to slide the support you made under it. Lift it off by sliding the support in. I routinely do this as a one man project. As you disassemble things, put the bolts in Ziploc bags and label them in them in the order they were removed. It's not a piece of cake but it is very doable.
Wow, based on your discription is there by chance a video of this? I have the manual for the RT and hopefully if a video isnt available Ill have that atleast.
2007 M109R LE - To many MODS to list. Its cheaper that way!!!
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Very Active Member
Tricky but doable..!!
20130128_093805.jpg 20130128_093821.jpg here are a couple of shots with the frunk off. You can see the fittings on the upper arm right where those bolts are on either side of the center frame. There are two more on the lower arms as well..
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Originally Posted by Orange Spyder Man
are the same fittings on the 14 RT's as well ???
OSM
Nope. No greasing the A Arm Bushings on the 14 RT.
2016 F3-L Special Series? Mods: Lamonster IPS end caps w/ Gripper 3rd pegs, GPS mount, Power Plate, Perf. Muffler; Backoff Brake Light Strobe; CD Front (amber/red) Brightsides & Tip Kit; ISCI Flag Holder w/Long Poles; BRP Signature Light, Aux Lights, Saddlebag Liners, Garmin 590 GPS; TricLED foam Grips, LEDs (Aux/headlights); Pitbull Driving Lights; RDL seat; Ultimate backrest
Previous ryde: 2012 RT-L, 26,636 miles on it when traded; 2014 RT-L, 34,147 miles on it when traded
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by M109Dreamer
Wow, based on your discription is there by chance a video of this? I have the manual for the RT and hopefully if a video isnt available Ill have that atleast.
This isn't a bad video on a Frunk removal.
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Very Active Member
How about a video on how to remove an ST frunk?
2020 F3 Ltd
Spyderpops Bumpskid
Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights
2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
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It's actually the same process; the above video will be able to safely guide you along the path...
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hi chupaca
Originally Posted by Chupaca
just ran across your frunk removal instructions. obviously you took your spyder thru the paces, hence, a question if I may. and recommendations as to the best way to lift the animal up?
which lift do you use and where are the correct support points? my motorcycle lift is of no help here I assume.
Peter in Germany.
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I think there are no zerk fittings that
are present on any of the 13 or 14 models...
There were none on my 13 RT and none on my 14 RT
Lets ride!!!!
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Very Active Member
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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I found this 90° fitting with extension hose worked.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1436491458.841507.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I was able to grease all 4 on each side w/o frunk removal on my 12 RTL..didn't seem too hard...but took me a while to see them all.
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