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Happy Spyderlovers
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Happy Spyderlovers
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
Once we get these front adjusters ironed out I will look at the rear shock. I need to get a feel for demand as nothing is cheap these days. Sales have to reach a certain volume just to break even on the R&D (and I work for FREE!).
Right now the prototype will compress the spring 1" but that can be easily changed before production. The threads are 20 per inch. 4 turns made a noticeable difference on Stan's RT. Noticeable doesn't necessarily mean ideal. But 4 turns are only 1/5th of the total throw. We still need to do some calculations to be sure we won't get coil bind. But all of that will be pretty easy. The main thing right now is design, fit and function.
Stan is wearing them out! A PERFECT Test Pilot! He seems to be quite happy with them with the exception of a few issues that I believe we already have fixed on paper. I think we are very close and with a bit of tweaking for Phase II I'm pretty sure we will be dialed in.
These are pretty heavy duty to the point of overkill. But why not. Making them thin and cheap really won't save all that much on the price, and the grief potential long term isn't worth the savings. I want my stuff to outlast the Spyder! Can't do that for everything but these adjusters are certainly on the list.
We are still deciding on how pretty to make them. They will really stand out in this mounting location so that is also important.
I am liking the brushed Stainless steel as it goes well with the "brushed" look of the chrome on the RTS. They do look good and these suckers are heavy duty for sure.
Happy Spyderlovers
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
Not only easier, but required. We've got a plan to address this aspect as most are not going to have a set laying around.
Hi Ron,
Eibach 400# springs is what comes on 2014 Spyder RT Elka front shocks, 3/8" preload on 10" long springs.
I wonder if these stronger Eibach 400# springs would work with your preload adjusters for stock 2013/2014 front shocks with less preload?
I see Stan has 5 turns preload on stock 2014 RT front springs (guess about 1" preload).
Your test shock spring adjusters look 1st quality, like all your products, thanks.
Jim
Eibach 400# RT front shock spring.jpg
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by BajaRon
There are pre-load adjusters on all the OEM 2008-2012 Spyder shocks so the adjusters I'm working on now will work only on the 2013/14 Spyder models. If you need more help with your 2012 RT a sway bar upgrade is the most effective first step. If that has been done the next step can include the Pitbull Shock Relocators, a heavier coil spring or to upgrade the shocks altogether. For a shock upgrade, Elka is the preferred choice.
Ron,
Put me on the list for a set!
2014 RT SE6 Rider
X - Honda Rider
X - RT S driver
X - RS driver
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Originally Posted by StanProff
Here's some pics of the adjusters. The third one is on the dragon.
1-20141025_170046.jpg1-20141025_182755.jpg1-SnipImage-001.JPG
BTW, the little peice of black tape on the adjuster collar is to keep track of the turns on it. kind of an afterthorght by BajaRon cause he knows I'd get mixed up counting the revolutions turning the collar.
Ron,
In looking at your 1st pic, I can see the rubber bumper pushed up quite a way. I don't think you are bottoming out, but it looks like it might be 2" up from the shock body. If you have a 2.5" working range, 2" would be 80% of your shock working range. If you are riding solo with light load, I'd guess you could bottom out.
Try pushing the rubber bumper down to the shock body, then adjust the device so you don't use but about 60% (~1.5").
Jerry
13 ST Limited F/R suspension, Corbin, GIVI top case
16 Vespa Primavera 150: Stock
16 Piaggio BV350: Suspension, braking mods in work
14 HD XL1200T: F/R suspension and brake mods; Corbin saddle and bags
09 Aprilia SC250: F/R suspension and minor brake mods
97 Honda PC800: F/R wheels, F/R suspension, and F/R brake Mods; Corbin saddle
90 CB-1: In work, long term project
89 Honda NT650: F/R suspension; Corbin saddle
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Originally Posted by spacetiger
Ron,
In looking at your 1st pic, I can see the rubber bumper pushed up quite a way. I don't think you are bottoming out, but it looks like it might be 2" up from the shock body. If you have a 2.5" working range, 2" would be 80% of your shock working range. If you are riding solo with light load, I'd guess you could bottom out.
Try pushing the rubber bumper down to the shock body, then adjust the device so you don't use but about 60% (~1.5").
Jerry
Hey Jerry, I'll slide the bumpers down before the next ride and see where they go. Paid no attention to them when we put the springs back on the shock after putting on the adjusters. I have yet to feel any bottoming of the shocks, I have put them through rough roads as well as intentional hard braking and speed bumps. We have added about 5/8 of and inch of preload to the shocks with 4 - 5 turns of the adjusters. There is about an inch of total adjustment. With the adjusters in place the bottom of the springs are very close to the stock location on the shock. The base plate where the spring sets on the shock is removed and the adjuster inner collar is machined to set in the same spot. With the springs preloaded a little it will have less tendency to bottom as it adds some stiffness to the front end.
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Good deal Stan.
You can check the sag when you push the bumpers down, then get on the bike gently, then dismount and check how much the bumpers move. The gap should be no more than 0.5". If you could raise the wheel off the ground, you could see the total gap due to the bike and rider weight (sag), but for now you should be looking for no more than 0.5".
If you are seeing more than 0.5", you should dial in a few more turns. I used a fixed 0.75" spacer to set my sag. You have more upright shocks on your newer bike and are running 5/8" (0.625"). You might be okay, but I found 0.75 was still not sufficient to keep me from bottoming out.
keep posting and ride safe.
Jerry
13 ST Limited F/R suspension, Corbin, GIVI top case
16 Vespa Primavera 150: Stock
16 Piaggio BV350: Suspension, braking mods in work
14 HD XL1200T: F/R suspension and brake mods; Corbin saddle and bags
09 Aprilia SC250: F/R suspension and minor brake mods
97 Honda PC800: F/R wheels, F/R suspension, and F/R brake Mods; Corbin saddle
90 CB-1: In work, long term project
89 Honda NT650: F/R suspension; Corbin saddle
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Update
Originally Posted by StanProff
Here's some pics of the adjusters. The third one is on the dragon.
1-20141025_170046.jpg1-20141025_182755.jpg1-SnipImage-001.JPG
BTW, the little peice of black tape on the adjuster collar is to keep track of the turns on it. kind of an afterthorght by BajaRon cause he knows I'd get mixed up counting the revolutions turning the collar.
Got a few more miles in on the pre load adjusters this past week. The weather has slowed down the field testing somewhat. I am happy with the feel of the bike at 5 turns on the adjusters. This is perfect for my riding style and weight loads on the spyder. Of course the ride feel and taughness is totally subjective for every rider and is adjustable from where I have these set. I have a couple of ideas to discuss with BajaRon when he gets back from his trip and besides that I think we are ready for the phase II proto type. This is going to be another good solid product from Ron for Spyders.
more to come,
Stan
Happy Spyderlovers
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Thanks for the update...
What will be the primary focus of "Phase 2"?
Will it be strictly for appearance, or do you foresee any functional changes?
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Thanks for the update...
What will be the primary focus of "Phase 2"?
Will it be strictly for appearance, or do you foresee any functional changes?
I don't want to speak for Ron, and this is just my opinion, but I am sure function is #1 and appearance will follow. Ease of adjustment is a priority and this has to do with the thread count of the adjuster. Also the physical size may be machined just a small amount. I am sure the overall look will remain as is. I think it looks very good and heavy duty. The next version will probably be the finished product. When Ron gets back from his trip we will go over this first set with a fine tooth comb. I know Ron was wondering about the finished look being a brushed look or a polished look. These first ones are not polished.
Happy Spyderlovers
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Thanks!
If it matters; please tell Ron that I like my stuff to be... SHINY!!
Well, I am going for the brushed look as the '14 RTS has no chrome on it. I do like chrome though. I just installed the 3rd brake light and it is chrome on top. gotta figure out a way to dull it down a little. Anyway,
Shiny: 1
Brushed: 1
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What about that Plasti-Dip stuff?
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
What about that Plasti-Dip stuff?
Good Idea. Hadn't thought about that. Gonna try it. I think I have some in the garage. I used it on my 2010 on the handlebars, windshield brackets and on the foot peg metal peices on both sides. It worked good and looked good.
Happy Spyderlovers
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Another Shock adjuster ride today.
Ok. It was a little cool but I figure anything above the mid 50's is ok if I dress for it. I Took the spyder for about a 50 mile spin down the beautiful valley along the Nolichucky river basin with the river on one side and the mountians on the other. The views are awesome and I ride this loop often. BajaRons prototype shock "pre load" adjusters are doing exactly what I would want them to. I backed them off one turn from 5 turns to 4 just to see if I could tell a difference. Couldn't really tell running 1 up and not loaded, but the seat of the pants feel is that I have a firmer ride with less rocking movement with the body of the Spyder. I am liking the adjusters.
Stan
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As good as I think my 2014 handles; this is sounding more and more like the last piece of the puzzle!
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