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  1. #26
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    I can see the advertising now...

    "BajaRon: Saving lives across the Country!"
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  2. #27
    Very Active Member StanProff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post


    I can see the advertising now...

    "BajaRon: Saving lives across the Country!"
    Hey Bob, it was really something to feel the stability control, anti lock brakes and maybe the traction control all working at the same time. There was leaves on the road from the trees and it was a left hand sharp curve so the Spyder was off camber when I had to lock it down. It seemed like things were in slow motion as I could feel the brakes and the nanny controlling as I came to a stop. It was not much more than a single lane road with a bank on one side and a good size ditch on the other with the deer in the middle. I should have known better than to go a little to fast on this road so I was lucky. If I had been on one of my two wheelers I would have went down for sure. My new rule: Ride Spyder and not two wheeler during deer season, oh, and slow down during the shock adjuster testing sessions.
    Happy Spyderlovers

  3. #28
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    While the insurance guy sitting here agrees with you; the Spyder enthusiast is doing this...

    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  4. #29
    Very Active Member StanProff's Avatar
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    Bump
    Happy Spyderlovers

  5. #30
    Very Active Member StanProff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    Once we get these front adjusters ironed out I will look at the rear shock. I need to get a feel for demand as nothing is cheap these days. Sales have to reach a certain volume just to break even on the R&D (and I work for FREE!).

    Right now the prototype will compress the spring 1" but that can be easily changed before production. The threads are 20 per inch. 4 turns made a noticeable difference on Stan's RT. Noticeable doesn't necessarily mean ideal. But 4 turns are only 1/5th of the total throw. We still need to do some calculations to be sure we won't get coil bind. But all of that will be pretty easy. The main thing right now is design, fit and function.

    Stan is wearing them out! A PERFECT Test Pilot! He seems to be quite happy with them with the exception of a few issues that I believe we already have fixed on paper. I think we are very close and with a bit of tweaking for Phase II I'm pretty sure we will be dialed in.

    These are pretty heavy duty to the point of overkill. But why not. Making them thin and cheap really won't save all that much on the price, and the grief potential long term isn't worth the savings. I want my stuff to outlast the Spyder! Can't do that for everything but these adjusters are certainly on the list.

    We are still deciding on how pretty to make them. They will really stand out in this mounting location so that is also important.
    I am liking the brushed Stainless steel as it goes well with the "brushed" look of the chrome on the RTS. They do look good and these suckers are heavy duty for sure.
    Happy Spyderlovers

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    Stan is wearing them out! A PERFECT Test Pilot! He seems to be quite happy with them with the exception of a few issues that I believe we already have fixed on paper. I think we are very close and with a bit of tweaking for Phase II I'm pretty sure we will be dialed in.

    These are pretty heavy duty to the point of overkill. But why not. Making them thin and cheap really won't save all that much on the price, and the grief potential long term isn't worth the savings. I want my stuff to outlast the Spyder! Can't do that for everything but these adjusters are certainly on the list.

    We are still deciding on how pretty to make them. They will really stand out in this mounting location so that is also important.
    No doubt; Stan IS the Man!!
    Any ideas as to pricing yet?
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  7. #32
    Very Active Member StanProff's Avatar
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    Default Pictures with the BajaRon proto type phase 1 shock adjusters

    Here's some pics of the adjusters. The third one is on the dragon.

    1-20141025_170046.jpg1-20141025_182755.jpg1-SnipImage-001.JPG

    BTW, the little peice of black tape on the adjuster collar is to keep track of the turns on it. kind of an afterthorght by BajaRon cause he knows I'd get mixed up counting the revolutions turning the collar.
    Last edited by StanProff; 10-30-2014 at 02:24 PM.
    Happy Spyderlovers

  8. #33
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    Oooooohhhh..... me likey!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    Not only easier, but required. We've got a plan to address this aspect as most are not going to have a set laying around.
    Hi Ron,
    Eibach 400# springs is what comes on 2014 Spyder RT Elka front shocks, 3/8" preload on 10" long springs.
    I wonder if these stronger Eibach 400# springs would work with your preload adjusters for stock 2013/2014 front shocks with less preload?
    I see Stan has 5 turns preload on stock 2014 RT front springs (guess about 1" preload).
    Your test shock spring adjusters look 1st quality, like all your products, thanks.
    Jim

    Eibach 400# RT front shock spring.jpg

  10. #35
    Registered Users Dragonrider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    There are pre-load adjusters on all the OEM 2008-2012 Spyder shocks so the adjusters I'm working on now will work only on the 2013/14 Spyder models. If you need more help with your 2012 RT a sway bar upgrade is the most effective first step. If that has been done the next step can include the Pitbull Shock Relocators, a heavier coil spring or to upgrade the shocks altogether. For a shock upgrade, Elka is the preferred choice.
    Ron,

    Put me on the list for a set!
    2014 RT SE6 Rider
    X - Honda Rider
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    X - RS driver
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  11. #36
    Very Active Member spacetiger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StanProff View Post
    Here's some pics of the adjusters. The third one is on the dragon.

    1-20141025_170046.jpg1-20141025_182755.jpg1-SnipImage-001.JPG

    BTW, the little peice of black tape on the adjuster collar is to keep track of the turns on it. kind of an afterthorght by BajaRon cause he knows I'd get mixed up counting the revolutions turning the collar.

    Ron,

    In looking at your 1st pic, I can see the rubber bumper pushed up quite a way. I don't think you are bottoming out, but it looks like it might be 2" up from the shock body. If you have a 2.5" working range, 2" would be 80% of your shock working range. If you are riding solo with light load, I'd guess you could bottom out.

    Try pushing the rubber bumper down to the shock body, then adjust the device so you don't use but about 60% (~1.5").

    Jerry
    13 ST Limited F/R suspension, Corbin, GIVI top case

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  12. #37
    Very Active Member StanProff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spacetiger View Post
    Ron,

    In looking at your 1st pic, I can see the rubber bumper pushed up quite a way. I don't think you are bottoming out, but it looks like it might be 2" up from the shock body. If you have a 2.5" working range, 2" would be 80% of your shock working range. If you are riding solo with light load, I'd guess you could bottom out.

    Try pushing the rubber bumper down to the shock body, then adjust the device so you don't use but about 60% (~1.5").

    Jerry
    Hey Jerry, I'll slide the bumpers down before the next ride and see where they go. Paid no attention to them when we put the springs back on the shock after putting on the adjusters. I have yet to feel any bottoming of the shocks, I have put them through rough roads as well as intentional hard braking and speed bumps. We have added about 5/8 of and inch of preload to the shocks with 4 - 5 turns of the adjusters. There is about an inch of total adjustment. With the adjusters in place the bottom of the springs are very close to the stock location on the shock. The base plate where the spring sets on the shock is removed and the adjuster inner collar is machined to set in the same spot. With the springs preloaded a little it will have less tendency to bottom as it adds some stiffness to the front end.
    Happy Spyderlovers

  13. #38
    Very Active Member spacetiger's Avatar
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    Good deal Stan.

    You can check the sag when you push the bumpers down, then get on the bike gently, then dismount and check how much the bumpers move. The gap should be no more than 0.5". If you could raise the wheel off the ground, you could see the total gap due to the bike and rider weight (sag), but for now you should be looking for no more than 0.5".

    If you are seeing more than 0.5", you should dial in a few more turns. I used a fixed 0.75" spacer to set my sag. You have more upright shocks on your newer bike and are running 5/8" (0.625"). You might be okay, but I found 0.75 was still not sufficient to keep me from bottoming out.

    keep posting and ride safe.

    Jerry
    13 ST Limited F/R suspension, Corbin, GIVI top case

    16 Vespa Primavera 150: Stock
    16 Piaggio BV350: Suspension, braking mods in work
    14 HD XL1200T: F/R suspension and brake mods; Corbin saddle and bags
    09 Aprilia SC250: F/R suspension and minor brake mods
    97 Honda PC800: F/R wheels, F/R suspension, and F/R brake Mods; Corbin saddle
    90 CB-1: In work, long term project
    89 Honda NT650: F/R suspension; Corbin saddle

  14. #39
    Very Active Member StanProff's Avatar
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    Default Update

    Quote Originally Posted by StanProff View Post
    Here's some pics of the adjusters. The third one is on the dragon.

    1-20141025_170046.jpg1-20141025_182755.jpg1-SnipImage-001.JPG

    BTW, the little peice of black tape on the adjuster collar is to keep track of the turns on it. kind of an afterthorght by BajaRon cause he knows I'd get mixed up counting the revolutions turning the collar.

    Got a few more miles in on the pre load adjusters this past week. The weather has slowed down the field testing somewhat. I am happy with the feel of the bike at 5 turns on the adjusters. This is perfect for my riding style and weight loads on the spyder. Of course the ride feel and taughness is totally subjective for every rider and is adjustable from where I have these set. I have a couple of ideas to discuss with BajaRon when he gets back from his trip and besides that I think we are ready for the phase II proto type. This is going to be another good solid product from Ron for Spyders.
    more to come,
    Stan
    Happy Spyderlovers

  15. #40
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    Thanks for the update...
    What will be the primary focus of "Phase 2"?
    Will it be strictly for appearance, or do you foresee any functional changes?
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  16. #41
    Very Active Member StanProff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Thanks for the update...
    What will be the primary focus of "Phase 2"?
    Will it be strictly for appearance, or do you foresee any functional changes?
    I don't want to speak for Ron, and this is just my opinion, but I am sure function is #1 and appearance will follow. Ease of adjustment is a priority and this has to do with the thread count of the adjuster. Also the physical size may be machined just a small amount. I am sure the overall look will remain as is. I think it looks very good and heavy duty. The next version will probably be the finished product. When Ron gets back from his trip we will go over this first set with a fine tooth comb. I know Ron was wondering about the finished look being a brushed look or a polished look. These first ones are not polished.
    Happy Spyderlovers

  17. #42
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    Thanks!
    If it matters; please tell Ron that I like my stuff to be... SHINY!!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  18. #43
    Very Active Member StanProff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Thanks!
    If it matters; please tell Ron that I like my stuff to be... SHINY!!
    Well, I am going for the brushed look as the '14 RTS has no chrome on it. I do like chrome though. I just installed the 3rd brake light and it is chrome on top. gotta figure out a way to dull it down a little. Anyway,

    Shiny: 1

    Brushed: 1
    Happy Spyderlovers

  19. #44
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    What about that Plasti-Dip stuff?
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  20. #45
    Very Active Member StanProff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    What about that Plasti-Dip stuff?
    Good Idea. Hadn't thought about that. Gonna try it. I think I have some in the garage. I used it on my 2010 on the handlebars, windshield brackets and on the foot peg metal peices on both sides. It worked good and looked good.
    Happy Spyderlovers

  21. #46
    Very Active Member StanProff's Avatar
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    Default Another Shock adjuster ride today.

    Ok. It was a little cool but I figure anything above the mid 50's is ok if I dress for it. I Took the spyder for about a 50 mile spin down the beautiful valley along the Nolichucky river basin with the river on one side and the mountians on the other. The views are awesome and I ride this loop often. BajaRons prototype shock "pre load" adjusters are doing exactly what I would want them to. I backed them off one turn from 5 turns to 4 just to see if I could tell a difference. Couldn't really tell running 1 up and not loaded, but the seat of the pants feel is that I have a firmer ride with less rocking movement with the body of the Spyder. I am liking the adjusters.

    Stan
    Happy Spyderlovers

  22. #47
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    As good as I think my 2014 handles; this is sounding more and more like the last piece of the puzzle!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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