Front scrapping on driveways

[Netminder]

Cruzr Joe - why would you tell someone to spend money that doesn't solve the problem and tell them to take these kinds of pavement transitions at an angle???? They could take these transitions at an angle without spending any money...

The bump skid only reduces the existing ground clearance so you are going to scrape a lot more if you don't address the problem.

I would agree the bumskid does not help with the bottoming out, but it is much better insurance at protecting your frunk bottom than the OEM is! Plus you will be glad you have it if you hit a small critter! Personally think it is a great investment! JMHO!

[billrob71]

I go out the driveway front first and at a angle , thats the only way mine will not scrape . If I back out even at a angle it scrapes. I looked in the bump skid and may get one but still will scrape but now the bump skid gets scraped instead of the nose , the bump skid almost costs as much as a new nose piece. ($200with shipping vs $234 list at the dealer). Go out your driveway easy and at a angle.

[spacetiger]

I don't think the OP is talking about bottoming out like hitting a bump too fast. He is talking about having insufficient clearance under the nose to maneuver a transition in the road without scraping. Same problem folks have when trying to drive onto the ramp of a trailer.

A skid plate will help protect the tupperware from damage as it will drag instead.
Approaching the 'ramp' at an angle helps as it gets one front tire climbing the ramp earlier.
Raising the front end with stiffer springs will help but will change your alignment so bear that in mind

and fyi....

Adding those rubber spacers under (or over) the spring will raise the ride height without changing the spring rate.
Adding those rubber spacers BETWEEN two coils will raise the ride height, but less so, and DOES change the spring rate. The springs get stiffer because rate is wire diameter X number of coils. Adding a block between coils eliminates the function of those coils as they can no longer flex. You now have a spring with the same wire diameter but effectively less coils = stiffer springs

Awwww, ya beat me to it!!!

Duffer,

Next Time I pull the front springs, I'll remount the shocks minus the springs so you can see how the ground clearance gets reduced when the shocks gets compressed. When you go over road transitions like pot holes, speed bumps, driveways, the weak springs allow the shocks to compress and bottom scraps.

Jerry

[PW2013STL]

He is correct

100%

[Bfromla]

I have the same problem but if I enter and exit the roadway at an angle it helps.

2013 STL here same agree, tech offered to adjust shocks @ oil change, thx but was more of a bad habit in how i entered certain drives. Made mental note & have had no other problems. Thats saying a lot for LA roads!


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[Flamewinger]

I'm having the same problem. I got BRP's Fox shocks when I bought the ST-L and now have 10k miles on it. The last 1-2000 miles I've noticed more scraping than normal. If I went fast I scraped but now even if I go slow I scrape. The Fox shocks have adjustable springs and I want to stiffen them. I tried lifting the front so the wheels are off the ground and I couldn't budge the lock ring. I'm going to try a cheater bar but any other ideas would be nice.

Picture of sagging ST.

IMG_0242.jpg

[kep-up]

put a wee bit of light lubricant on the threads before trying to move the lockring.

[Bob Denman]

Before putting a bar to it ; I'd try to see if I could find some sort of penetrating lubricant that might loosen it up a bit...
Good Luck!

[ARtraveler]

Just slow down, and "walk" the bike through the low spots at an angle...
These bikes aren't exactly blessed with an abundance of ground clearance; ride them as such...

I am going to chime in and 2nd the motion here. I always take it very slow when entering "new" territory. The angle method works for me going up/down driveways. I am always careful about how close I get to those concrete bumpers also.

Front end damage (even if cosmetic) can be very expensive.

[Ben Burped]

Hi all, I have been riding my ST L for about a month and find that when I am going out a driveway from say a store, the front hits on the ground. Would stiffening the shocks (assuming this can be done) help? The tire pressures are correct. Or is this just the way it is? Thanks, Dean

First check to see if the adjustments on the front shocks are set to the highest position. Second, try the BRP Fox shock and set it on the highest position before installation. Putting a Bump skid on should be a last resort because it won't fix anything. It will just protect the plastic when you still hit the ground. Been there. Done this.

[Ben Burped]

I'm having the same problem. I got BRP's Fox shocks when I bought the ST-L and now have 10k miles on it. The last 1-2000 miles I've noticed more scraping than normal. If I went fast I scraped but now even if I go slow I scrape. The Fox shocks have adjustable springs and I want to stiffen them. I tried lifting the front so the wheels are off the ground and I couldn't budge the lock ring. I'm going to try a cheater bar but any other ideas would be nice.

Picture of sagging ST.

IMG_0242.jpg

Take the shocks off and use two spanner wrenches to loosen the locknuts, adjust them up to the top , and then lock them. Channel lock pliers will do the job but will scar up the locknuts. On a personal note, I found it easier to do this with the front cargo module removed. Been there. Done this.

[spacetiger]

I would offer this as an easier solution as the shock can stay on the bike.

1. Lift the front of the bike (side you will adjust the shock on) via a jack. Don't lift the rear wheel, it is your park brake and keeps the bike from moving.

2. Fit two ratchet straps and put them on the spring opposite from each other like the pic below. Take up the slack in the straps and tighten them down. You do not have to actually compress the spring; With the bike side jacked up, the only load on the spring is the preload. Each strap can easily counter the preload by tightening the spring coils with ~ 100 lb for each strap or ~200 lbs total. That should be enough to leave very little compression force on that shock from the spring.

3. Adjust up the 1st ring behind the spring to compress the spring (it really is best to use the right tool, another bike tool might work and would be better than channel lock pliers as they are less likely to mare the aluminum lock rings); you do do not have to loosen the back ring. Move each shock side an equal amount. Try to see if you can move it about 1/3", that would be a good starting point.

4. Move up the 2nd ring to backstop the 1st.

5. Release tension one each strap one at a time, then remove from shock. Move over to do the other side.

This way should keep you from having to remove the shocks and will make it easier to put additional preload on the springs.

Post back what you do and how it worked out.


Jerry

[Bfromla]

Has anyone asked Baja Ron bout this and his need for test pilots, per his new shocks?


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[Bob Denman]

I know that he had CruzrJoe on board; I'd have to guess that he's got his 2nd prototype tester already

[Dragonrider]

This is not a limited problem - my 2014 RT scrapes on rough roads, but not on curbs -perhaps I automatically take those at an angle.

Last summer I was on a ride with a lot of weather damage, and could not go slow enough to keep the Spyder from scraping. I have Ron's anti-sway bar ready to install this winter, and may put wedges in the springs too. Spending $1K+ for a set of shocks is out of the question.

[spacetiger]

This is not a limited problem - my 2014 RT scrapes on rough roads, but not on curbs -perhaps I automatically take those at an angle.

Last summer I was on a ride with a lot of weather damage, and could not go slow enough to keep the Spyder from scraping. I have Ron's anti-sway bar ready to install this winter, and may put wedges in the springs too. Spending $1K+ for a set of shocks is out of the question.

Sounds like you may just need better aftermarket springs. Do you know to read the front shock rubber bumpers to see if you are bottoming out? And you weigh?, sorry, have to ask to help solve the problem. BTW, the cost for good set of front springs are ~150 (inc shipping).

Post a pick of the front underside so all can see the scraping. It would be good for others to check too and comment.

[Dragonrider]

These pics show the damage from a single trip on a paved, but weather damaged road, and a picture of my hand under the Spyder, showing the ground clearance (or lack thereof).

There is NO adjustment available on my Spyder's shocks... It frequently sees 450# when loaded and two up. Probably had 300# on the day this damage was done.

[spacetiger]

These pics show the damage from a single trip on a paved, but weather damaged road, and a picture of my hand under the Spyder, showing the ground clearance (or lack thereof).

There is NO adjustment available on my Spyder's shocks... It frequently sees 450# when loaded and two up. Probably had 300# on the day this damage was done.

Well that isn't too cool.

If you have good access to the bike can you check the front shock to see how it is performing under a static load. If you look at attached pic, you will see the rubber bumper. The bumper is your last safety net. When the shock fully compresses, the shock body pushes the bumper up at the top of the shock. To keep the shock from hitting metal on metal, the rubber bumper absorbs the impact. The trouble is, its a hard impact. You need strong enough springs for the weight load you have. This should be one of the first things you check.

An easy way to check how soft your springs are for the load you are carrying is to check the sag of the bike. To do this, you need to push the bumper all the way down to the shock body. The gap above the rubber bumper to the top is essentially the working range of the shock. For my 2012 RTS, the total gap is 2.5" (you can measure this if you jack the bike up, then push the bumper all the way down, then measure the gap). Once the bumper is all the way down, get on the bike carefully taking care not to bounce the bike. Sit on the set, then dismount. You just put your solo riding weight on the front suspension and it compressed the front shocks. Now, you can check to see how far up the rubber bumper was pushed by you just sitting on the bike. If you have a working range of 2", your gap should not be more than 25% x 2" = 0.5". That is just a rule of thumb. A smaller gap is okay, but a bigger gap isn't a good thing depending on how much more.

Can you do the step above and report back what you find? A pic would be great for all the other 2014 RTS riders.

Jerry

[jimnsusie]

This is not a limited problem - my 2014 RT scrapes on rough roads, but not on curbs -perhaps I automatically take those at an angle.

Last summer I was on a ride with a lot of weather damage, and could not go slow enough to keep the Spyder from scraping. I have Ron's anti-sway bar ready to install this winter, and may put wedges in the springs too. Spending $1K+ for a set of shocks is out of the question.

I see we are on a similar page. I have Ron's sway bar ready for install as well. I hope to get it done in Jan with a stretch of good weather so I can ride over to a friends place. He has the heated garage as mine isn't. Have had a minor scraping incident already also. That caught me by surprise. Would like to know if you are able to raise your bike any. I can see something needs to be done and another bunch of money is not likely from me.

[Dragonrider]

Jim;

I'm going to add the rubber wedge shown earlier in this thread as well as the Ron's bar. I want to raise the bike 1".

I suspect the 14s were lowered to give better fuel economy, and that's probably also the reason we get so much stuff in the intake ducts... On non-damaged roads, it's not a problem, and was never a problem on my 2010 - with the same loads.

[Flamewinger]

I'm thinking of trying a set of Spring Compressors to compress the spring then adjusting the lock rings. (while the wheels are off the ground)

Lock rings on Fox shock
IMG_0281.jpg

Spring compressor set
image_23334.jpg

[spacetiger]

I'm thinking of trying a set of Spring Compressors to compress the spring then adjusting the lock rings. (while the wheels are off the ground)

Lock rings on Fox shock
IMG_0281.jpg

Spring compressor set
image_23334.jpg

flamewinger,

those spring compressors can work okay if the shock is off the bike. You may struggle to get them on in the confined space if the shocks are still on the bike. The ratchet straps are good for the tight space.

Where able to read the bumper with just your static weight on the bike?

[Flamewinger]

Not sure about "Where able to read the bumper with just your static weight on the bike?"

Just looking at the bike from the front and you can see the front wheels cave inwards.

First pic is looking at the front. Second pic is a bullet level on the inside rim.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419479925.929346.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419479951.974549.jpg

[spacetiger]

Flamewinger,

I understand about the inward tip of the wheel and your desire to adjust the springs to get the wheels more upright.

You do not want to just start changing the preload on the shocks to get the wheels look upright. I believe you want to get the spring adjusted properly; when this is done, I believe the wheels will look right as the spring will keep the front suspension A arms parallel to the ground. That will insure the wheel is up and down.

I will post a separate link with plenty of pics so you can understand how to adjust your springs: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...d=1#post917893

As you go through your adjustments, keep posting back what you find out so other benefit from your experience.

Jerry

[Dragonrider]

There are no adjustments available on my shocks... Do I assume correctly that the rubber doughnut shown earlier in the thread fits on the top of the shock spring? I also noted the mention of "wedges", and think I've seen them before, but can't find a picture/source... Let me know where to find these - thanx