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  1. #1
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    Default Does anyone know the current dealer cost of a 2014 RT Limited and any promotions?

    I purchased a 2013 RT Limited in July/2013. I live in Texas and really enjoy riding it for the first 15 minutes, it is perfect. Once it heats up it is miserable. I spent $2000 on modifications to improve the handling and hopefully the heat. It is still not the vehicle I thought I was purchasing.

    Therefore, I am going to purchase a 2014 RT limited and based on what I have read it is the vehicle I was looking for in 2013. I want to make the best deal and it looks like that is going to be costly.

    A dealer has offered to trade for $6746 difference. You can make the numbers look any way you want but here is their offer.

    Purchase price of 2014 25199
    Trade in 2013 -18653

    Difference 6546

    If I add the $2000 in modifications it will cost me $8546.00 to ride a Spyder for 3200 miles. I am willing to spend the money to get a better product.

    Question: Is this a good deal? If not, any suggestions or input? I don't mind the dealers making a fair profit on the transaction. They did not manufacture the 2013 spyder so I don't blame the dealers.

    Looking forward to any suggestions.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    The 2014 is a nice bike, but I can tell you I spent a lot less than that 8k to make mine 95% the right bike. My comfort issues are gone including the heat as is almost all of the gas fume issues. Still a bit when I get home and put it in the garage, but never while riding now. I ride in Houston traffic on 100deg days.....

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
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  3. #3
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    There was a $2,000 rebate available a little while ago; I don't know if that offer has expired.
    The question for you is: How much do you want to make the deal??
    Good Luck with your decision...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  4. #4
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    To me those prices sound pretty typical. First year is always where you take the biggest hit.
    Only you can decide if the deal is good or not.
    Some thoughts-
    Maybe try to swap some of your useful mods to the 14'
    Maybe try to work in some extras into the 14' deal. Pretty easy for dealers to absorb extended maintenance plans and such.
    Maybe try to get a few extras...a cover, some gear, etc.
    With some finesse you may Be able to cut some of that difference down a bit.
    But remember, its a losing battle. If you want to play your gonna pay....ugh..

  5. #5
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    Default What else can I do?

    My Spyder is in perfect condition so I hate the thought of spending more money but I also do not enjoy the heat. I don't mind the 2 cylinder engine, the 5 speed transmission. The 3 cylinder may be great and I know I would like the 6 speeds but the heat is the primary issue.

    I have removed the cat and done the cat bypass. I installed the block off plate on the right hand foot side and put foot pegs to get my feet away but I still get tremendous heat under seat and still from the right side.

    What else can be done? Maybe I give that a try first. I know the 2014 will probably be reduced as the 2015's arrive.

  6. #6
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    Where are you feeling the heat?
    (Hate to ask; but it'll give us a direction, in which to focus the efforts...)
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  7. #7
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wcricks View Post
    My Spyder is in perfect condition so I hate the thought of spending more money but I also do not enjoy the heat. I don't mind the 2 cylinder engine, the 5 speed transmission. The 3 cylinder may be great and I know I would like the 6 speeds but the heat is the primary issue.

    I have removed the cat and done the cat bypass. I installed the block off plate on the right hand foot side and put foot pegs to get my feet away but I still get tremendous heat under seat and still from the right side.

    What else can be done? Maybe I give that a try first. I know the 2014 will probably be reduced as the 2015's arrive.

    You are on the right track.

    * Insulate the exhaust header from the cylinder head all the way back to the muffler flange.
    * Install JT Air filter assembly to increase air flow
    * Remove the underside black plastic sound insulation panels to increase air flow.
    * Use heat reflective insulation, peel and stick type on the inside of the side body panels below the glove box.

    Not completely necessary but I also directed ALL radiator heat exhaust straight down rather than out the side. Made my right foot happier.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
    2015 F3S , Blue Flame

  8. #8
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    Default Have you had the opportunity to

    take a 14' for a ride?

    I was in about the same boat with our 13' and like you I was focusing hard on the best value. After my ride on the 14' my decision was much easier, and I got out the door with a similar cost model as you, although our 13' had 11,500 on it.-Best of luck to you!
    Lets ride!!!!

  9. #9
    Very Active Member bscrive's Avatar
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    If the heat is going to make you misearble and you have the money, I would say to take the hit and chalk it up to experience. You may be able to reduce the heat to a managable amount but what one finds acceptable another person finds it unbearable. You may end up spending another grand to reduce the heat a little more but then you will be in the hole even more. The purpose is to enjoy the ride and not have to bear through it. Also, living in Texas is not like the north, you get the heat down there a lot longer than us up here.

    Just my 2 cents,..... 3 cents in Canadian funds

    Brian

  10. #10
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default ANSWERING WHAT WAS ASKED .............INSTEAD OF GOING OFF THREAD

    I am basing this figure against what I paid for mine in MAY 2014 and what I am seeing they are selling for now at places like Greenville Texas ( posted on E-Bay )......... So my guesstimate on dealer cost would be approx. $20,000...........................Your problem with bargaining is going to be THE TRADE.......The dealer now has to sell TWO spyders not just ONE......................It's in your best financial interest to leave out the trade ( sell privately ), and bargain for the NEW 14 .................The dealer really wants to unload OLD inventory .....and NOT acquire more OLD inventory..................................JMHO ......Good Luck, Mike
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 10-16-2014 at 05:49 PM.

  11. #11
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    RE: Is it worth it to trade. You have all the trade in mumbo jumbo figured out pretty good. The MSRP can be moved up or down, fees can be added or subtracted, trade can be moved up or down. The bottom line...as you have figured out...is how much money to do the deal and drive away.

    It sounds like you would be much happier with the 2014. As an owner of one, I can second the motion.

    The difference you pay now, to get what you want, is worth a whole bunch. If you hang on to the 2014 for awhile, you will get some of your money back. The hit won't seem so bad a year from now.

    I did similar when going from 2008 GS to 2010 premier edition RT. My hit was also a good $6K plus. Farkles went for virtually nothing. I am still glad I did it.

    Wishing you happiness if you decide to go for the deal.
    Last edited by ARtraveler; 10-16-2014 at 01:51 PM.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  12. #12
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wis2013rtltd View Post
    take a 14' for a ride?

    I was in about the same boat with our 13' and like you I was focusing hard on the best value. After my ride on the 14' my decision was much easier, and I got out the door with a similar cost model as you, although our 13' had 11,500 on it.-Best of luck to you!

    Yes, I test rode a 2014. It is smoother and it does get better fuel mileage. And as I already said, it has fewer gas fumes when parked after a ride. My 2013 sounds better (I hate the sound of the triple, just a personal thing) and is faster (drag race proven) and considering the cost to paint, $12k buys a LOT of gas. I was not sold. If I was in the market to buy a bike and they were even close to the same price, I would agree the 14 is an improvement but they have their issues too. Besides with all the suspension stuff I already have done, my 13 drove much better.

    But they are not near the same price. Each person has to decide if they are worth 8 to 12k more.
    Last edited by jcthorne; 10-16-2014 at 01:51 PM.

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  13. #13
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    Default You Bet...

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    I am basing this figure against what I paid for mine in MAY 2014 and what I am seeing they are selling for now at places like Greenville Texas ( posted on E-Bay ) approx. $20,000...........................Your problem with bargaining is going to be THE TRADE.......The dealer now has to sell TWO spyders not just ONE......................It's in your best financial interest to leave out the trade ( sell privately ), and bargain for the NEW 14 .................The dealer really wants to unload OLD inventory .....and NOT acquire more OLD inventory..................................JMHO ......Good Luck, Mike
    I bought ours in feb from them for $27,000 otd they have them for less now.. I dealt with Curtis, Awesome guy..Def worth looking ...Good Luck!!!!

  14. #14
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    Default Thanks to everyone for such thoughful replies

    I really appreciate all the thoughtful replies, I expected to get some of the sarcastic ones! Maybe recent comments about those types have reduced this behavior.

    I learned today that there is a $2500 rebate to dealers on the 2014 RT / LTD. Also, they are extending the warranty to 4 years. I believe I am going to do the deal.

    If you live in Texas or close by and are in the market for a new one let me know, I really like how easy it has been to work with this particular dealer.

  15. #15
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    Default Beware of Greenville TX dealer

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    I am basing this figure against what I paid for mine in MAY 2014 and what I am seeing they are selling for now at places like Greenville Texas ( posted on E-Bay )......... So my guesstimate on dealer cost would be approx. $20,000...........................Your problem with bargaining is going to be THE TRADE.......The dealer now has to sell TWO spyders not just ONE......................It's in your best financial interest to leave out the trade ( sell privately ), and bargain for the NEW 14 .................The dealer really wants to unload OLD inventory .....and NOT acquire more OLD inventory..................................JMHO ......Good Luck, Mike

    The dealer in Greenville is very difficult to work with at least over the phone. The are smart at marketing when it comes to low price points but good luck actually ending up purchasing at the prices the advertise.

    If you are in Texas I can recommend some great dealers. You can call on the phone and work out the deal.

    Note: I am in the advertising business and we service over 4000 auto dealers so I am very familiar with the difference between honest or shady dealers.

  16. #16
    Registered Users DaveL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wis2013rtltd View Post
    take a 14' for a ride?

    I was in about the same boat with our 13' and like you I was focusing hard on the best value. After my ride on the 14' my decision was much easier, and I got out the door with a similar cost model as you, although our 13' had 11,500 on it.-Best of luck to you!
    I was in the same boat also. Three weeks ago I purchased a 2014 RT limited. My cost was in the same ballpark. IMHO you can spend a lot more money on the 2013 and it will never be as nice as the 14 and in the end you will be out even more money. I love the 14. It is everything I thought I was getting with the 13.

  17. #17
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wcricks View Post
    I really appreciate all the thoughtful replies, I expected to get some of the sarcastic ones! Maybe recent comments about those types have reduced this behavior.

    I learned today that there is a $2500 rebate to dealers on the 2014 RT / LTD. Also, they are extending the warranty to 4 years. I believe I am going to do the deal.

    If you live in Texas or close by and are in the market for a new one let me know, I really like how easy it has been to work with this particular dealer.

    Good luck and enjoy the new bike. Hope it is everything you are looking for.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
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  18. #18
    Very Active Member Dan_Ashley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wcricks View Post
    My Spyder is in perfect condition so I hate the thought of spending more money but I also do not enjoy the heat. I don't mind the 2 cylinder engine, the 5 speed transmission. The 3 cylinder may be great and I know I would like the 6 speeds but the heat is the primary issue.

    I have removed the cat and done the cat bypass. I installed the block off plate on the right hand foot side and put foot pegs to get my feet away but I still get tremendous heat under seat and still from the right side.

    What else can be done? Maybe I give that a try first. I know the 2014 will probably be reduced as the 2015's arrive.
    I think most of the heat from under the seat comes from two places. One from the air gaps at the front of the seat, between the frame and the black plastic that surrounds the frame/latch/gas fill. Plug those air gaps with heat resistant material and it will help a lot. Two, from radiator heat that is pushed up through the tuberware cavity. By replacing the right cowling around the radiator with a 2014 cowling you will remove the hot air from the radiator from coming up the seat. When you do this take off the block off plate and wear a pair of 1/2 chaps that are insulated on your right ankle. When the block off plate is installed the instruction read to remove the bottom panel. Doing this appears to make the Spyder run cooler. Actually, it does not make the Spyder run cooler. Removing the bottom panel makes the engine temperature cooler--not the engine. This is because the sensor is right there. By removing the bottom panel, you are really just cooling the sensor.
    Dan

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  19. #19
    Very Active Member bluestratos's Avatar
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    I did everything jc did but I also slide a piece of reflective insulation under the gas tank then up and over the top of the air box. This eliminated the boiling gas and the hot seat issue completely. I used non peal and stick and cut out all pieces to fit every inch of the each plastic panel from the access panels and back to the lower side panels. Finally, I removed the plastic dust shield under the radiator and completely insulated the openings using the plastic sub frame as a mounting location. I used a block off plate on the right side as well but it was decorative at that stage and by it self it does not seal very well so it is will cure the problem with out the added insulation. Once done all my heat issues were gone and a bit of a bonus, the bike was quieter! Wrapping the exhaust pipes is a chore and if the insulation is done correctly you can eliminate this step for now and check out how it feels. The insulation I bought is the type used under a vehicles hood and is a bit pricey but it works.

    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    You are on the right track.

    * Insulate the exhaust header from the cylinder head all the way back to the muffler flange.
    * Install JT Air filter assembly to increase air flow
    * Remove the underside black plastic sound insulation panels to increase air flow.
    * Use heat reflective insulation, peel and stick type on the inside of the side body panels below the glove box.

    Not completely necessary but I also directed ALL radiator heat exhaust straight down rather than out the side. Made my right foot happier.

  20. #20
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluestratos View Post
    I did everything jc did but I also slide a piece of reflective insulation under the gas tank then up and over the top of the air box. This eliminated the boiling gas and the hot seat issue completely.

    Would really like to see some pics of what you did here. Having a hard time visulizing from your description but sounds very interesting and would like to try it.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
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  21. #21
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    Default Good Luck..

    Quote Originally Posted by wcricks View Post
    The dealer in Greenville is very difficult to work with at least over the phone. The are smart at marketing when it comes to low price points but good luck actually ending up purchasing at the prices the advertise.

    If you are in Texas I can recommend some great dealers. You can call on the phone and work out the deal.

    Note: I am in the advertising business and we service over 4000 auto dealers so I am very familiar with the difference between honest or shady dealers.
    I live in New Mexico. And had a great experience with the dealer in Greenville. I dealt with Curtis. They are on ebay, you can check all of there prices on there. Great values across the board.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by PattyandJoe View Post
    I live in New Mexico. And had a great experience with the dealer in Greenville. I dealt with Curtis. They are on ebay, you can check all of there prices on there. Great values across the board.
    Did u buy yours about a month ago? I talked to someone that was picking up a black one with his son when I was there getting our second one.

  23. #23
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    Default You got a bit bitten on the 2013 but in the end I say "Make The Deal!

    If you wait too long you are going to own a bike no one wants. The 998 cc engine is obsolete and the amount you will get as time goes on is going to go way down. Now is the time to move on it and the numbers you quoted are reasonable for sure. Do the deal and you will be happy after eating the nut.
    Go for it!

  24. #24
    Very Active Member den1953's Avatar
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    Default Don't Know Dealer Cost or Invoice

    I don't know what a dealer gives for one but my dealer has one (platinum silver satin/black seat) for $26,000 on his website. Down a notch from that he has a few RT-S SE6's for $23,500 and SM6 for $22,000. I'm sure he's still making some profit at those prices.

  25. #25
    Very Active Member jaherbst's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by den1953 View Post
    I don't know what a dealer gives for one but my dealer has one (platinum silver satin/black seat) for $26,000 on his website. Down a notch from that he has a few RT-S SE6's for $23,500 and SM6 for $22,000. I'm sure he's still making some profit at those prices.
    If they are not making some profit they will not be in business to sell and service the product. Remember all dealers get a kick back from the factory of 1-3% depending on volume. Might not be the case on the Spyder but total Can Am product sold by your dealer.

    Most people get screwed after the trade when the "Bean Counter" starts adding on all the Mickey Mouse extra charges like $399 just to service the licensing, not the cost of the license. Freight, and assembly comes to mind. Even had a guy once who tried to charge extra for Salesman's commission. Don't fall for the add on scams. "just say no!"

    Jack
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