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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by akspyderman
13 Miles downhill wondering if your brakes are failing, PUCKER POWER.
Cruzr Joe
2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
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Very Active Member
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Originally Posted by akspyderman
The brakes were working fine on the level.
That reminds me of another observation:
"That tire is only flat on the bottom."
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And every one of those warnings were pointless. There was more than enough brake fluid in the system for safe braking.
Its even more pointless than having your gas light come on when your at 3/4 tank.
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Come on crews or Jo. You can do better than that! [emoji8]
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Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe
..... i am off this topic......
Cruzr Joe
Again?...
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Active Member
I'd really appreciate it if ya'll would take the pissin contest somewhere else... it's rude to hijack a thread like this guys.
I think everyone is missing my point... in order to keep the brake fluid level sensors happy I'm having to fill it up to a level where brake fluid is oozing out under the caps when large temperature swings occur (30's the other evening, 60's today for example). Brake fluid is highly corrosive once it's exposed to open air, and VERY flammable... I'm becoming concerned what the fluid may be doing to the frame of the Spyder inside the body panels (it's clearly on my rear coil and shock already), and that it could cause a fire since it appears at least a few drops have reached the exhaust pipes under the body of my RS now! Start yours up and let it idle for 5 or 6 minutes on a calm afternoon and see if it starts to smoke from underneath... bet there's brake fluid on your pipes too if it smokes.
I've nothing against regularly checking and adjusting the fluid levels as needed, and I am not a fan of disconnecting safety systems... but I do not want the frame corroding and possibly failing "down the road", nor a fire ever!
Clearly the sensors are triggered when there is still far and away plenty of fluid in the reservoirs... I've no doubt it's still safe to drive in spite of the "Brake Failure" warning coming on. At least, until a line somewhere ruptures and ALL the fluid spills out while on a ride and I press the brake pedal and get NOTHING! That's what the sensors should be there for, to let you know that you're REALLY loosing brake fluid... but they're pretty useless the way they are working (ie. "the boy who cried 'wolf'" scenario, once aware of this problem nobody really believes the "Brake Failure" message they get any longer).
So uhmmm... if there is no known good solution to this problem, how do we get the manufacturer to address it and make a fix available? It's my observation that the "Brake Failure" alarm goes off while the fluid levels are still well above the Min mark on the reservoirs on my 2012 RS, which is ridiculous. Apparently I'm not alone here it's not just my Spyder it's fairly common...
If my GMC truck was having a problem like this GM would be required to issue a recall and fix the bloody issue with a redesigned part! Does somebody have to get hurt or killed 1st because of this issue? Would prefer it not be me!
Me, I think I'm going to open up the rear body panels this weekend and check under the brake fluid reservoir and the frame and wiring in that area to see how much has gotten brake fluid on it already and try to wash it off at least for now. Maybe add another teaspoon of fluid to each reservoir again to keep those sensors "happy". This is not a solution though. Ughhhh!
Thanks.
- Michael
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Very Active Member
Michael,
I noticed when you first posted there was no brake fluid oozing out; but, now there is. Is the ridge/hump (may be called a relief) on the caps facing toward the rear of the Spyder?
Last edited by wyliec; 02-21-2015 at 09:04 AM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by wyliec
Michael,
I noticed when you first posted there was no brake fluid oozing out; but, now there is. Is the ridge/hump (may be called a relief) on the caps facing toward the rear of the Spyder?
Wyliec, i sent him that info in a PM, when i mentioned that to other folks they laughed ................... but it works. Thanks
Just like i tell folks with pre 14s that if the "O" ring on the dipstick keeps sliding off, take it off and turn it around. and it won't slip anymore. NON Scientific stuff that works.
Cruzr Joe
2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Michael211_2000
I'd really appreciate it if ya'll would take the pissin contest somewhere else... it's rude to hijack a thread like this guys.
I think everyone is missing my point... in order to keep the brake fluid level sensors happy I'm having to fill it up to a level where brake fluid is oozing out under the caps when large temperature swings occur (30's the other evening, 60's today for example). Brake fluid is highly corrosive once it's exposed to open air, and VERY flammable... I'm becoming concerned what the fluid may be doing to the frame of the Spyder inside the body panels (it's clearly on my rear coil and shock already), and that it could cause a fire since it appears at least a few drops have reached the exhaust pipes under the body of my RS now! Start yours up and let it idle for 5 or 6 minutes on a calm afternoon and see if it starts to smoke from underneath... bet there's brake fluid on your pipes too if it smokes.
I've nothing against regularly checking and adjusting the fluid levels as needed, and I am not a fan of disconnecting safety systems... but I do not want the frame corroding and possibly failing "down the road", nor a fire ever!
Clearly the sensors are triggered when there is still far and away plenty of fluid in the reservoirs... I've no doubt it's still safe to drive in spite of the "Brake Failure" warning coming on. At least, until a line somewhere ruptures and ALL the fluid spills out while on a ride and I press the brake pedal and get NOTHING! That's what the sensors should be there for, to let you know that you're REALLY loosing brake fluid... but they're pretty useless the way they are working (ie. "the boy who cried 'wolf'" scenario, once aware of this problem nobody really believes the "Brake Failure" message they get any longer).
So uhmmm... if there is no known good solution to this problem, how do we get the manufacturer to address it and make a fix available? It's my observation that the "Brake Failure" alarm goes off while the fluid levels are still well above the Min mark on the reservoirs on my 2012 RS, which is ridiculous. Apparently I'm not alone here it's not just my Spyder it's fairly common...
If my GMC truck was having a problem like this GM would be required to issue a recall and fix the bloody issue with a redesigned part! Does somebody have to get hurt or killed 1st because of this issue? Would prefer it not be me!
Me, I think I'm going to open up the rear body panels this weekend and check under the brake fluid reservoir and the frame and wiring in that area to see how much has gotten brake fluid on it already and try to wash it off at least for now. Maybe add another teaspoon of fluid to each reservoir again to keep those sensors "happy". This is not a solution though. Ughhhh!
Thanks.
- Michael
Sorry about the Hijack stuff. It sounds like you are experiencing more than the "low fluid syndrome."
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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Parking Brake Failure
I pushed the parking brake switch get a failure notice and the brake won't set. What works the cable I hear something running but the cable don't move.I'm thinking the cable is broke or loose on the actuator end .ANY SUGGESTIONS 2010 RT AC Se-5 thanks
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by neelbert
I pushed the parking brake switch get a failure notice and the brake won't set. What works the cable I hear something running but the cable don't move.I'm thinking the cable is broke or loose on the actuator end .ANY SUGGESTIONS 2010 RT AC Se-5 thanks
There is a problem with the cable slipping off the spool that sets the brake. Supposed to be an easy fix. I am not big on mechanical, so someone else will give you the fix shortly.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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