Cost of Laser alignment

[elpaso]

What have you paid for the alignment?

[Marker]

$120.00 USA. its 125.00 Canadian

[0992]

I paid $110.00

[Bob Denman]

One C-Note here...
The Shop that did it, took care of the BUDS hookup at the dealership for us!

[lwrydr]

$130

[Chupaca]

runs between $100.00 and $150.00...I paid $130.00 and they did a great job with a few extra touches..if squared away comes your way make an appointment..

[coz]

125.00 Was it worth it ? yes.

[Bob Denman]

125.00 Was it worth it ? yes.

That, is the question that needed asking!

Glad to hear that your bike gave you the right answer!

[bmccaffrey]

$130.00 from rolo. Mike also checked shift points with the buds, Interesting!!!

[Dragonfly]

How often does that need to be done? Have not had it done with 11,000 miles on my Spyder and she tracks just fine.
I'm comfortable taking both hand off for a short time if needed.

[bosummer]

I have paid $145. Is it worth to pay such a high price for laser alignment? I am a bit puzzled.

[BikerDoc]

If your bike isn't properly aligned, not only does it not handle good, but the cost in tires will be greater than any alignment cost mentioned here

[Gray Ghost]

I have paid $145. Is it worth to pay such a high price for laser alignment? I am a bit puzzled.

For the 2013, the service manual calls for doing a steering alignment every 14000 miles or two years, whichever comes first. Below are the steps from the copy of the service manual that I have. BRP did have Mike (the inventor of the ROLO system) come up and work with them so there is an alternate means now, but they still want the shocks removed, etc.

1. Place vehicle on a level surface.
2. Apply the parking brake.
3. Remove front storage compartment.
4. Lift the front of vehicle.
5. Properly support vehicle on frame extension using jack stands.
6. Disconnect front fender position light.
7. Remove each front fender.
8. Remove the front wheels.
9. Remove shocks and install appropriate alignment bars.
10. Secure both brake discs to wheel hubs using lug nuts and spacers (M18 elastic stop nuts).
11. On RT models
11.1 Remove retaining nut from side panel support.
11.2 Remove side panel support to access push nut.
11.3 Remove push nut, retaining screw and washer.
12. Remove plastic rivets securing bottom plate to vehicle.
13. Gently pull on bottom plate to unclip it from sub frame bar.
14. Using an M8 bolt with proper length, from the right side assemble the bolt with a washer and the space bar, pass the bolt through the frame where both plastic rivets were previously removed, to the left side and secure
with washer and nut.
15. Install the second spacer bar where the other plastic rivets were removed.
16. Mark alignment bar at its center.
17. Attach the alignment bar to the spacers using the locking pliers or C-clamps. The alignment bar must be centered on an imaginary line drawn through the front axles with (91 cm (3 ft) in front of the axles and 91 cm (3 ft) behind them).
18. Ensure alignment bar is parallel with the frame (left/right) by visually inspecting from the front. Adjust bar and clamps as required.
19. Position the handlebar so that it is in the straight ahead position by measuring between the extremities of the handlebar and a fixed point at rear.
20. Install the PITMAN ARM LOCKING TOOL
20.1 Place the locking tool over the pitman arm.
20.2 Secure locking tool on the pitman arm using a C-clamp or locking pliers.
21. Finger tighten the locking tool screws.
22. Measure the handlebar position again to make sure it did not move during pitman arm locking tool installation.
23. Install the magnetic laser on a brake disc.
24. In order to increase the precision of your measurement follow the next steps to align the laser dot at the correct height of your alignment
bar.
24.1 From the front, measure the height of the top end of your alignment bar from the ground.
24.2 Move your tape in front of the laser and move the laser to match the appropriate height.
24.3 You will need to repeat this procedure when taking the rear measurements.
25. Starting on one side, measure front and rear distances between alignment bar and laser level line. Retake measurements 3 times while rotating disc 1/3 of a turn. This step is to compensate for any minor disc brake warpage.
26. Starting from one side, measure both front and rear then go to the other side and take the same measurements. Note these measurements in the appropriate spaces in the alignment reference chart.
27. Refer to the following chart for alignment specification.

I am assuming that you were quoted the $145 for a ROLO system alignment. Think about what you would have to pay a dealer to go through the set up and check based on the service manual and also remember that steps above are aligning to the frame, not the rear wheel. So on the one hand you have a charge of $145 that will align your Spyder to the rear wheel, giving superior steering performance and on the other you have higher price and steering that may or may not actually be toed in when you go to ride.

[oldguyinTX]

$100.00, & I'm glad I did it & sway bar at the same time. Huge difference. Shocks next.

[Lamonster]

I charge $120.00 if it needs it and free if it doesn't. It pretty much always needs it.

[bruiser]

Just paid $135.00

[vided]

$100.00, & I'm glad I did it & sway bar at the same time. Huge difference. Shocks next.

Exactly the same here.

[bmccaffrey]

For the 2013, the service manual calls for doing a steering alignment every 14000 miles or two years, whichever comes first. Below are the steps from the copy of the service manual that I have. BRP did have Mike (the inventor of the ROLO system) come up and work with them so there is an alternate means now, but they still want the shocks removed, etc.

1. Place vehicle on a level surface.
2. Apply the parking brake.
3. Remove front storage compartment.
4. Lift the front of vehicle.
5. Properly support vehicle on frame extension using jack stands.
6. Disconnect front fender position light.
7. Remove each front fender.
8. Remove the front wheels.
9. Remove shocks and install appropriate alignment bars.
10. Secure both brake discs to wheel hubs using lug nuts and spacers (M18 elastic stop nuts).
11. On RT models
11.1 Remove retaining nut from side panel support.
11.2 Remove side panel support to access push nut.
11.3 Remove push nut, retaining screw and washer.
12. Remove plastic rivets securing bottom plate to vehicle.
13. Gently pull on bottom plate to unclip it from sub frame bar.
14. Using an M8 bolt with proper length, from the right side assemble the bolt with a washer and the space bar, pass the bolt through the frame where both plastic rivets were previously removed, to the left side and secure
with washer and nut.
15. Install the second spacer bar where the other plastic rivets were removed.
16. Mark alignment bar at its center.
17. Attach the alignment bar to the spacers using the locking pliers or C-clamps. The alignment bar must be centered on an imaginary line drawn through the front axles with (91 cm (3 ft) in front of the axles and 91 cm (3 ft) behind them).
18. Ensure alignment bar is parallel with the frame (left/right) by visually inspecting from the front. Adjust bar and clamps as required.
19. Position the handlebar so that it is in the straight ahead position by measuring between the extremities of the handlebar and a fixed point at rear.
20. Install the PITMAN ARM LOCKING TOOL
20.1 Place the locking tool over the pitman arm.
20.2 Secure locking tool on the pitman arm using a C-clamp or locking pliers.
21. Finger tighten the locking tool screws.
22. Measure the handlebar position again to make sure it did not move during pitman arm locking tool installation.
23. Install the magnetic laser on a brake disc.
24. In order to increase the precision of your measurement follow the next steps to align the laser dot at the correct height of your alignment
bar.
24.1 From the front, measure the height of the top end of your alignment bar from the ground.
24.2 Move your tape in front of the laser and move the laser to match the appropriate height.
24.3 You will need to repeat this procedure when taking the rear measurements.
25. Starting on one side, measure front and rear distances between alignment bar and laser level line. Retake measurements 3 times while rotating disc 1/3 of a turn. This step is to compensate for any minor disc brake warpage.
26. Starting from one side, measure both front and rear then go to the other side and take the same measurements. Note these measurements in the appropriate spaces in the alignment reference chart.
27. Refer to the following chart for alignment specification.

I am assuming that you were quoted the $145 for a ROLO system alignment. Think about what you would have to pay a dealer to go through the set up and check based on the service manual and also remember that steps above are aligning to the frame, not the rear wheel. So on the one hand you have a charge of $145 that will align your Spyder to the rear wheel, giving superior steering performance and on the other you have higher price and steering that may or may not actually be toed in when you go to ride.

Very informative and true. Will take the laser any day!!!!!!

[spydaman60]

For the 2013, the service manual calls for doing a steering alignment every 14000 miles or two years, whichever comes first. Below are the steps from the copy of the service manual that I have. BRP did have Mike (the inventor of the ROLO system) come up and work with them so there is an alternate means now, but they still want the shocks removed, etc.

1. Place vehicle on a level surface.
2. Apply the parking brake.
3. Remove front storage compartment.
4. Lift the front of vehicle.
5. Properly support vehicle on frame extension using jack stands.
6. Disconnect front fender position light.
7. Remove each front fender.
8. Remove the front wheels.
9. Remove shocks and install appropriate alignment bars.
10. Secure both brake discs to wheel hubs using lug nuts and spacers (M18 elastic stop nuts).
11. On RT models
11.1 Remove retaining nut from side panel support.
11.2 Remove side panel support to access push nut.
11.3 Remove push nut, retaining screw and washer.
12. Remove plastic rivets securing bottom plate to vehicle.
13. Gently pull on bottom plate to unclip it from sub frame bar.
14. Using an M8 bolt with proper length, from the right side assemble the bolt with a washer and the space bar, pass the bolt through the frame where both plastic rivets were previously removed, to the left side and secure
with washer and nut.
15. Install the second spacer bar where the other plastic rivets were removed.
16. Mark alignment bar at its center.
17. Attach the alignment bar to the spacers using the locking pliers or C-clamps. The alignment bar must be centered on an imaginary line drawn through the front axles with (91 cm (3 ft) in front of the axles and 91 cm (3 ft) behind them).
18. Ensure alignment bar is parallel with the frame (left/right) by visually inspecting from the front. Adjust bar and clamps as required.
19. Position the handlebar so that it is in the straight ahead position by measuring between the extremities of the handlebar and a fixed point at rear.
20. Install the PITMAN ARM LOCKING TOOL
20.1 Place the locking tool over the pitman arm.
20.2 Secure locking tool on the pitman arm using a C-clamp or locking pliers.
21. Finger tighten the locking tool screws.
22. Measure the handlebar position again to make sure it did not move during pitman arm locking tool installation.
23. Install the magnetic laser on a brake disc.
24. In order to increase the precision of your measurement follow the next steps to align the laser dot at the correct height of your alignment
bar.
24.1 From the front, measure the height of the top end of your alignment bar from the ground.
24.2 Move your tape in front of the laser and move the laser to match the appropriate height.
24.3 You will need to repeat this procedure when taking the rear measurements.
25. Starting on one side, measure front and rear distances between alignment bar and laser level line. Retake measurements 3 times while rotating disc 1/3 of a turn. This step is to compensate for any minor disc brake warpage.
26. Starting from one side, measure both front and rear then go to the other side and take the same measurements. Note these measurements in the appropriate spaces in the alignment reference chart.
27. Refer to the following chart for alignment specification.

I am assuming that you were quoted the $145 for a ROLO system alignment. Think about what you would have to pay a dealer to go through the set up and check based on the service manual and also remember that steps above are aligning to the frame, not the rear wheel. So on the one hand you have a charge of $145 that will align your Spyder to the rear wheel, giving superior steering performance and on the other you have higher price and steering that may or may not actually be toed in when you go to ride.

and after all of that, your spyder still won't be aligned!! go for the laser alignment and enjoy your ride while saving rubber!!!

[Paladin58]

I was told that the 2014 RT-S & RT-Ls did not need the laser alignment (as well as the 2015s). Is there any truth to that?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Gray Ghost]

I was told that the 2014 RT-S & RT-Ls did not need the laser alignment (as well as the 2015s). Is there any truth to that?

There is a slight chance that a Spyder (no matter what year) will not need an alignment. It is an extremely slim chance because BRP aligns to the frame, the ROLO system aligns to the rear wheel.

[Dragonfly]

So does anyone know of a place in Virginia that does Laser Alignment? I checked with Honda House and they don't have the equipment.

[mrfats]

$80 including Buds. About a year ago.

[Roadster Renovations]

For the 2013, the service manual calls for doing a steering alignment every 14000 miles or two years, whichever comes first. Below are the steps from the copy of the service manual that I have. BRP did have Mike (the inventor of the ROLO system) come up and work with them so there is an alternate means now, but they still want the shocks removed, etc.

1. Place vehicle on a level surface.
2. Apply the parking brake.
3. Remove front storage compartment.
4. Lift the front of vehicle.
5. Properly support vehicle on frame extension using jack stands.
6. Disconnect front fender position light.
7. Remove each front fender.
8. Remove the front wheels.
9. Remove shocks and install appropriate alignment bars.
10. Secure both brake discs to wheel hubs using lug nuts and spacers (M18 elastic stop nuts).
11. On RT models
11.1 Remove retaining nut from side panel support.
11.2 Remove side panel support to access push nut.
11.3 Remove push nut, retaining screw and washer.
12. Remove plastic rivets securing bottom plate to vehicle.
13. Gently pull on bottom plate to unclip it from sub frame bar.
14. Using an M8 bolt with proper length, from the right side assemble the bolt with a washer and the space bar, pass the bolt through the frame where both plastic rivets were previously removed, to the left side and secure
with washer and nut.
15. Install the second spacer bar where the other plastic rivets were removed.
16. Mark alignment bar at its center.
17. Attach the alignment bar to the spacers using the locking pliers or C-clamps. The alignment bar must be centered on an imaginary line drawn through the front axles with (91 cm (3 ft) in front of the axles and 91 cm (3 ft) behind them).
18. Ensure alignment bar is parallel with the frame (left/right) by visually inspecting from the front. Adjust bar and clamps as required.
19. Position the handlebar so that it is in the straight ahead position by measuring between the extremities of the handlebar and a fixed point at rear.
20. Install the PITMAN ARM LOCKING TOOL
20.1 Place the locking tool over the pitman arm.
20.2 Secure locking tool on the pitman arm using a C-clamp or locking pliers.
21. Finger tighten the locking tool screws.
22. Measure the handlebar position again to make sure it did not move during pitman arm locking tool installation.
23. Install the magnetic laser on a brake disc.
24. In order to increase the precision of your measurement follow the next steps to align the laser dot at the correct height of your alignment
bar.
24.1 From the front, measure the height of the top end of your alignment bar from the ground.
24.2 Move your tape in front of the laser and move the laser to match the appropriate height.
24.3 You will need to repeat this procedure when taking the rear measurements.
25. Starting on one side, measure front and rear distances between alignment bar and laser level line. Retake measurements 3 times while rotating disc 1/3 of a turn. This step is to compensate for any minor disc brake warpage.
26. Starting from one side, measure both front and rear then go to the other side and take the same measurements. Note these measurements in the appropriate spaces in the alignment reference chart.
27. Refer to the following chart for alignment specification.

I am assuming that you were quoted the $145 for a ROLO system alignment. Think about what you would have to pay a dealer to go through the set up and check based on the service manual and also remember that steps above are aligning to the frame, not the rear wheel. So on the one hand you have a charge of $145 that will align your Spyder to the rear wheel, giving superior steering performance and on the other you have higher price and steering that may or may not actually be toed in when you go to ride.

Also, I watched Lamonts video and when he aligned per the manual to the frame as reference and then later checked it with the laser alignment to the rear wheel he found it was quite a ways off. It makes sense to me that the only correct way to align the Spyder is to the rear wheel. Anything else cannot be correct. It will vary with each Spyder as all the frame parts have tolerance measurements where parts will still fit together. Are they all exactly the same length and size? No way that they could be.
Even if the cost was equal, the laser alignment would superior by far.

[brian01]

I am purchasing the buds/buds2 and the ROLO system for spyders and rykers.
I will do my 16 rt and my friends 19 ryker 1st. I will be offering alignments, oil changes , brakes , tires and aftermarket installations. Mohawk valley New York