Results 1 to 21 of 21
  1. #1
    Registered Users
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Strongsville
    Posts
    82
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default To Oil Change or Not To Oil Change

    Hi Everyone,

    Hope that it's been a good riding year for all. I will be storing my 2010 RT-S in about a month. I'm just about at 5000 miles since my last oil change (which is normally how long I go). I'm looking for some feedback on storing the trike. Should I:

    1. Change the oil now, ride for a month, store for winter
    2. Keep riding, change the oil just before storing
    3. Keep riding, store for winter, change the oil next year when I break it out in spring

    As always, thanks in advance.
    Michael
    You call it a midlife crisis. I call it all the things I wanted to do!

    2010 RT-S SE5

  2. #2
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    SoFlo
    Posts
    4,341
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mpapatonis View Post
    Hi Everyone,

    Hope that it's been a good riding year for all. I will be storing my 2010 RT-S in about a month. I'm just about at 5000 miles since my last oil change (which is normally how long I go). I'm looking for some feedback on storing the trike. Should I:

    1. Change the oil now, ride for a month, store for winter
    2. Keep riding, change the oil just before storing
    3. Keep riding, store for winter, change the oil next year when I break it out in spring

    As always, thanks in advance.
    #3 absolutely not in my book. Get the condensation and acids out before storing.

    #1 & #2, use the 10% rule. If your riding before storage is less than 10% , 500 miles, ride it, oil change, then store. More than 10%, change just the oil and refer to #3.

    My thoughts, but see how others see it.

    PK

  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Anderson, South Carolina
    Posts
    16
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Change it now

    My vote would be for option #1

    Why would you want to drive around with oil that most likely has lost some of the viscosity and is also contaminated from normal use? It will just cause premature wear.

  4. #4
    Registered Users
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Strongsville
    Posts
    82
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    If I change the oil now or just before storing, do I need to change it again in the spring or will it be ok, since I'm not running the trike during storage?
    Michael
    You call it a midlife crisis. I call it all the things I wanted to do!

    2010 RT-S SE5

  5. #5
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Not Here
    Posts
    92,464
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Changing it at the end of the Season, and again at the start of next Season... innecessary!
    One; or the other; not both. I'd change at the beginning of the Season, and It'll be ready for some serious riding!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  6. #6
    Active Member Raknid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    335
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    If not riding more than 500 to 1000 miles before storage, I would ride it, change the oil, and then store it. Probably no big deal if you change it now, ride 500 miles and store it ( no need to change again in the spring). What you want to avoid is storing with dirty, contaminated oil.

  7. #7
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Greeneville, TN
    Posts
    13,592
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    #1 and you'll be fine in the spring.
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





  8. #8
    Very Active Member bruiser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Eastern North Carolina
    Posts
    6,600
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Change before storage. Especially with 5K on the old oil. Contaminants in the old oil will settle out to the bottom of the crankcase. They can be pretty corrosive.



    USAF '69-'89 E7
    Thailand/Vietnam 1972
    Member: Royal Order of Rat Bastards







  9. #9
    Very Active Member ulflyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Near Lexington, NC
    Posts
    2,218
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    You're running on very thin oil now; be assured the viscosity has sheared down to 20W or less. I'd siphon a quart out and top off with fresh oil, then do the full oil and filters change when you store it. You might have a warm fall and ride longer than you expect.
    Two Wheelers from 1963-2011

    Three Wheelers:
    2011 RT(Red)
    2014 RT(white)
    2016 F3T(red)
    2022 RT current ride(silver)
    __________________
    2016 Slingshot
    2018 Vanderhall
    2019 Slingshot

  10. #10
    Very Active Member AY4B's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Greenville Tx
    Posts
    2,470
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PMK View Post
    #3 absolutely not in my book. Get the condensation and acids out before storing.

    #1 & #2, use the 10% rule. If your riding before storage is less than 10% , 500 miles, ride it, oil change, then store. More than 10%, change just the oil and refer to #3.

    My thoughts, but see how others see it.

    PK
    WHAT DID I JUST READ!
    2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic

  11. #11
    Invalid Emails
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Gore,Quebec,Canada
    Posts
    1,744
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Changing it at the end of the Season, and again at the start of next Season... innecessary!
    One; or the other; not both. I'd change at the beginning of the Season, and It'll be ready for some serious riding!
    With Bob! I asked this same question when I first bought the Spyder and a very smart man, with lots of MC experience,who is no longer posting (NancysToys)said the samething! Especially with the new oils these days, I do this with all my summer vehicles and never had an issue. Changing right before storage and then before riding in the spring, in my opinion is both unnecessary and expensive!But to each their own!
    Last edited by Netminder; 09-21-2014 at 06:42 PM.
    2012 RT , stock Lava Bronze

  12. #12
    Very Active Member bmccaffrey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    rome new york
    Posts
    2,337
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Netminder View Post
    With Bob! I asked this same question when I first bought the Spyder and a very smart man, with lots of MC experience,who is no longer posting (doc)said the samething! Especially with the new oils these days, I do this with all my summer vehicles and never had an issue. Changing right before storage and then before riding in the spring, in my opinion is both unnecessary and expensive!But to each their own!

    AGREE!!!!!!

  13. #13
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Not Here
    Posts
    92,464
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Don't follow me; I'm lost too!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  14. #14
    Invalid Emails
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Gore,Quebec,Canada
    Posts
    1,744
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Not that I do not value your input Bob, I do! But we all know the experience that NancysToys has, so his advice is like gold!My bad, but I meant NancysToys, which I am sure you figured by now!
    Last edited by Netminder; 09-21-2014 at 06:42 PM.
    2012 RT , stock Lava Bronze

  15. #15
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Not Here
    Posts
    92,464
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    I'd follow Scotty anywhere he chose to lead me.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  16. #16
    Invalid Emails
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Gore,Quebec,Canada
    Posts
    1,744
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Once again, I miss his solid advice and knowledge!
    2012 RT , stock Lava Bronze

  17. #17
    Very Active Member bmccaffrey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    rome new york
    Posts
    2,337
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Technology is great

    Out with the old in with the new

  18. #18
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    San Diego, CA.
    Posts
    31,097
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default Depends..!

    how much you ryde a month. Agree with Ron change it now you will be tapering down anyway...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  19. #19
    Very Active Member Dan_Ashley's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Redlands, Ca
    Posts
    2,203
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    If it is time to chage it, then do so. Don't put it off because then you will forget.
    Dan

    2012 Viper Red Rt
    upgrades:
    Baja Ron's Anti-Sway
    Diamond-R Arm Rests
    Gloriders
    High mount brake light
    chrome front fender garnish
    Bad Boy Horn
    Chrome Deflector Rack
    Chrome Scuff Nose Accent
    Handlebar Grip Fringe
    Gremlin Bells

  20. #20
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    SoFlo
    Posts
    4,341
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AY4B View Post
    WHAT DID I JUST READ!
    In easy to follow simple terms...The original post had a choice of three numbered items. 1, 2, and 3.

    From the original post.

    1. Change the oil now, ride for a month, store for winter
    2. Keep riding, change the oil just before storing
    3. Keep riding, store for winter, change the oil next year when I break it out in spring


    My reply was, based on the original post 3 items. In my experience and opinion.

    #3 absolutely not in my book. Get the condensation and acids out before storing.

    #1 & #2, use the 10% rule. If your riding before storage is less than 10% , 500 miles, ride it, oil change, then store. More than 10%, change just the oil and refer to #3.



    Used oil holds moisture and acids, not good for an inactive engine or gearbox. Storing in this condition is not best.

    If the original post person opts to continue riding, an amount of 10% more than his 5000 change interval will be easily handled. So a change of oil and filter at 5500 should be a non issue. In theory, he could ride this fall, not exceed approx 5500 on the oil and change before storage. Cost effective and best for the engine and gearbox.

    If the op, plans to ride a lot in the fall months, then he should change the oil and filter now. Then repeat the oil and filter change for storage in my opinion.

    Can the OP store it with low mile oil and filter, certainly, it is his machine. Is it best, no. If this were my machine, and stored with used oil, I would without doubt, run the engine several times during storage to prevent or minimize chances of pitted bearings, cam concerns, and ring marks on the cylinders.

    If the op does his own work, the cost is minimal for best results. Overal though, however each person decides is their own choice.

    Consider also, unless the engine has one cylinder, at least one other cylinder has the valves or a valve open to the ambient conditions.

    PK

  21. #21
    Very Active Member Pirate looks at --'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    3,329
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default What

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Changing it at the end of the Season, and again at the start of next Season... innecessary!
    One; or the other; not both. I'd change at the beginning of the Season, and It'll be ready for some serious riding!
    ...is this "season" that you speak of? You mean you don't ryde all year long? I hope everyone on this board can extend their season as long as possible......and to be honest with you I am hoping that we can't ryde as much as last year (we missed one weekend last winter) we need rain damn it
    White 2013 Spyder RT Limited. BajaRon Swaybar, Custom Dynamic Third Brake Light. Ultimate Custom Black and White seat with driver and passenger back rest. Gloryder Led Wheel lights.Custom Dynamics Led Bright sides, Amber and Red Fender lights, and Saddle Bag Bright sides.

    2016 F3 Limited Intense Red Pearl. Lidlox, BRP Driver Back Rest, BRP Passenger Back Rest,Fog Lights, GPS, Signature Light! Custom Dynamics LED Bright Sides, Amber and Red Fender lights, and Saddle Bag Bright Sides.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •