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  1. #101
    Very Active Member DGoebel's Avatar
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    Can you print them in Black material?
    Safe Rides,
    David and Sharon Goebel
    Both Retired USAF Veterans
    2018 Anniversary Edition RT Limited
    Baja Ron ultimate swaybar. Vredestein tires, Baja Ron Front Shock Pre-load adjusters, Pedal Box, See my Spyder Garage
    IBA 70020

  2. #102
    Active Member noboot's Avatar
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    What can I say but Competition is a healthy thing.

  3. #103
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    If the printed version is actually only 6000 psi strength, being 1/7 the strength of yours hardly seems like competition.

  4. #104
    Very Active Member Sopher's Avatar
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    I printed mine in High Temp PLA that has a 6000psi tensile strength.
    I can print in CarbonFiber PETG that is extremely stiff.

    However, I firmly believe that the reason _why_ the original part breaks is due to torsional stresses induced from periodic road conditions with pot holes etc. The original part basically has no give and then the metal just fatigues.
    RT-S # 352; Timeless Black... faster than any other color. Mods: EasternBeaver PC8 Fuse Box, 12v digital dashboard display, RearTrunk internal Lights.
    Pioneer XMP3 hardwired, KewlMetal highway foot rests, PolkAudio Speaker upgrades (dxi525 & dxi400), Custom Garmin Nuvi bracket and wiring, Panel Savers, Custom LED array third brake light and rear signal LED's. Custom mud flap lights. Daytime Running Lights (3wattsx6). Heated Corbin seat with 'Lamonster' cut. JBL 400watt Amp,
    Other secret mods.

  5. #105
    Active Member noboot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sopher View Post
    However, I firmly believe that the reason _why_ the original part breaks is due to torsional stresses induced from periodic road conditions with pot holes etc. The original part basically has no give and then the metal just fatigues.
    Correct, The movement particularly sideways of the windscreen is a participating factor to the fatigue of the OEM part.

  6. #106
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sopher View Post
    I printed mine in High Temp PLA that has a 6000psi tensile strength.
    I can print in CarbonFiber PETG that is extremely stiff.

    However, I firmly believe that the reason _why_ the original part breaks is due to torsional stresses induced from periodic road conditions with pot holes etc. The original part basically has no give and then the metal just fatigues.
    I dis-agree, the BRP arm is ( from what I've seen of broken ones ) cast metal , maybe an alloy. ….. It just isn't very strong …. and compounded by all the deep reliefs in the arms …. If those reliefs weren't there I don't they would be failing at the rate they do..... The reliefs serve No purpose other than to Weaken the part ….. Mike

  7. #107
    Very Active Member Sopher's Avatar
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    Regardless, I now have a functional wind shield again.
    I will be designing additional add-on parts for other areas. I have now have Carbon Fiber back coming in.
    RT-S # 352; Timeless Black... faster than any other color. Mods: EasternBeaver PC8 Fuse Box, 12v digital dashboard display, RearTrunk internal Lights.
    Pioneer XMP3 hardwired, KewlMetal highway foot rests, PolkAudio Speaker upgrades (dxi525 & dxi400), Custom Garmin Nuvi bracket and wiring, Panel Savers, Custom LED array third brake light and rear signal LED's. Custom mud flap lights. Daytime Running Lights (3wattsx6). Heated Corbin seat with 'Lamonster' cut. JBL 400watt Amp,
    Other secret mods.

  8. #108
    Very Active Member Sopher's Avatar
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    As a added update... the part is doing great. no issues with the part. I'm not entirely sure I have my magnents set right on the endstops.
    RT-S # 352; Timeless Black... faster than any other color. Mods: EasternBeaver PC8 Fuse Box, 12v digital dashboard display, RearTrunk internal Lights.
    Pioneer XMP3 hardwired, KewlMetal highway foot rests, PolkAudio Speaker upgrades (dxi525 & dxi400), Custom Garmin Nuvi bracket and wiring, Panel Savers, Custom LED array third brake light and rear signal LED's. Custom mud flap lights. Daytime Running Lights (3wattsx6). Heated Corbin seat with 'Lamonster' cut. JBL 400watt Amp,
    Other secret mods.

  9. #109
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Semi reviving an old topic.

    Years ago I purchased the NoBoot machined billet aluminum windscreen arm. Our original never failed, and available time did not have me accomplish installing the NoBoot part until last week. I had already removed many bodypanels, so accessing the windscreen arm was simply a matter of removing the windscreen itself and mounting bracket.

    The video showed marking parts as needed for correct reassembly. The bearing cap fasteners easily removed, however I learned that BRP adds a drop or more of what appears to be Super Glue to help secure the bearing caps when originally assembled. The gear end bearing cap easily removed with the Super Glue giving up with a slight pry as shown in the NoBoot video.

    The position sensor magnet end bearing cap was glued together with more than a simple drop. In simple terms, the Super Glue applied was too much, and wound up wicking into the entire aft mating surface of the bearing cap and housing assembly. Simply prying the cap would not release it. Without fear, I used a new single edge razor blade, and worked it carefully into the glued joint. I also utilized a wide blade Xacto knife as needed. Ultimately, the Super Glue was weakened and the bearing cap released without damage.

    I utilized the specialty removal tools supplied with the machined windscreen arm and with essentially no effort removed the magnet assembly from the shaft.

    Removing the original was easy after removing the roll pins. The new arm slid on well, then the shaft created a small burr on the aluminum. I removed the shaft and lightly chamfered the end of the shaft with a fine file. Accomplishing that, the arm slid on with a very accurate precision fit. The roll pin holes were accurate and the pins installed nicely. I expect the slight chamfer on the shaft also eased reinstallation of the magnet assembly.

    In short, the shaft assembly task was relatively easy, and assembled with a quality fit.

    Next, utilizing the previous alignment marks everything was positioned, reassembled and secured.

    The first ride with the new machined windscreen arm was 200 miles to the Deland event. Without doubt, the windscreen is more stable at speed and less jittery with road imperfections.

    Yes, I waited a while to install the upgrade windscreen arm, no regrets in waiting, but now am far more confident in the windscreen setup. Wanted to add, our windscreen itself is the F4 standard series, so it is a bit wider than oem, so the added stability is quite noticeable.

    Thanks Ron / NoBoot for a great product at a price that is easily fair considering the quality of the part and included tools to make the task very easy.

  10. #110
    Active Member noboot's Avatar
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    PMK, Your welcome and thanks for the feedback. We see the replacement arm as an assistant to help your ride on the Spyder RT a more safer one.

  11. #111
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    I have a new one for sale, never installed it & have a F3 now.

  12. #112
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    How much are you looking to get for it? Mine broke last week on my 2010 RT

  13. #113
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    Hi All, I bought the arm and replaced it on my 2011 RT, it seemed to work OK for awhile and started to miss when I tried to move windshield up/down. I took all apart again and it seems that the Gear wheel is good but that the base had stripped (found a few small broken plastic pieces on wheel). Now it skips when I try to put it back together, any help would be appreciated, do I need to replace the base (GGrrr it is all one big piece which will cost $$$). Any other suggestions would be appreciated.....HELP !!!!!

    Noboot, bought this from you a couple of years ago.

  14. #114
    Active Member noboot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbudster View Post
    Hi All, I bought the arm and replaced it on my 2011 RT, it seemed to work OK for awhile and started to miss when I tried to move windshield up/down. I took all apart again and it seems that the Gear wheel is good but that the base had stripped (found a few small broken plastic pieces on wheel). Now it skips when I try to put it back together, any help would be appreciated, do I need to replace the base (GGrrr it is all one big piece which will cost $$$). Any other suggestions would be appreciated.....HELP !!!!!

    Noboot, bought this from you a couple of years ago.
    Reading your post I gather the gear cog in the base is breaking. If that's the case I suggest you find someone that is wrecking a Spyder and purchase the entire base assembly and then replace yours with it on your bike and use your "new" arm.

  15. #115
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    That is exactly what I am trying to do but not easy to find a second hand one and we are able to ride by next week March 15, 2020 (winter tire law expires on that date). If I can't find one by next week, I may just put it back together and leave the windshield up and try to sell it that way. I have to but my new used 2018 by Mid April 2020 and want to have this one sold by then (if possible.....LOL).

  16. #116
    Very Active Member ThreeWheels's Avatar
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    I just picked up the 2020 RTL.
    The center power arm appears to be the same design, but I can't be certain because it's painted black.
    I can say, however, that the windshield seems more secure and doesn't bounce around as much as my two previous Spyders.
    If it ain't broke, don't break it.
    IBA #47122
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  17. #117
    Active Member noboot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThreeWheels View Post
    I just picked up the 2020 RTL.
    The center power arm appears to be the same design, but I can't be certain because it's painted black.
    I can say, however, that the windshield seems more secure and doesn't bounce around as much as my two previous Spyders.
    I guess time will tell. Fingers crossed they have learnt to improve not just the looks and style but quality of the components

  18. #118
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    HELP !!!!! I found the gear and motor assembly in Canada and ordered it, I got it today and went to fix the arm. NOW, I have another issue, The arm goes UP when I press the UP on the handlebar for the windshield. When I press the DOWN on the handlebar for the windshield to go DOWN, I get nothing? It doesn't try to go DOWN? When I press the button, I don't even hear the motor engage, I hear nothing? Any suggestions? A friend mentioned that he doesn't think that it has anything to do with the magnet, he thinks that it may be a sensor on the handlebar where I press DOWN, I opened the piece on the handlebar and tried to giggled the wires to see if it may be a loose connection, nothing (the wires seem very tight to the UP/DOWN switch).

    Any advice will be welcome, I am out of ideas.

  19. #119
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default Windshield motor assembly

    Quote Originally Posted by bbudster View Post
    HELP !!!!! I found the gear and motor assembly in Canada and ordered it, I got it today and went to fix the arm. NOW, I have another issue, The arm goes UP when I press the UP on the handlebar for the windshield. When I press the DOWN on the handlebar for the windshield to go DOWN, I get nothing? It doesn't try to go DOWN? When I press the button, I don't even hear the motor engage, I hear nothing? Any suggestions? A friend mentioned that he doesn't think that it has anything to do with the magnet, he thinks that it may be a sensor on the handlebar where I press DOWN, I opened the piece on the handlebar and tried to giggled the wires to see if it may be a loose connection, nothing (the wires seem very tight to the UP/DOWN switch).

    Any advice will be welcome, I am out of ideas.
    It is possible that the magnet isn't properly lining up with the trigger .... it's similar to what stops the elevator at the correct floor no more / no less ..... I can't guess why or how yours doesn't align. ...... good luck .... Mike

  20. #120
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    I tried positioning the arm at the bottom and going up a click each time and trying to press the DOWN button but nothing happened. When I press the UP button at each position, the arm moved UP? Really weird? Someone mentioned:
    it has to do with the magnet position on the left end. I left the top clamps off and kept repositioning the coller. That did not cure it. I finally had to pop the magnet out and shaved the plastic a little and glued the magnet in once it worked properly

    I may try this tomorrow

  21. #121
    Active Member noboot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbudster View Post
    I tried positioning the arm at the bottom and going up a click each time and trying to press the DOWN button but nothing happened. When I press the UP button at each position, the arm moved UP? Really weird? Someone mentioned:
    it has to do with the magnet position on the left end. I left the top clamps off and kept repositioning the coller. That did not cure it. I finally had to pop the magnet out and shaved the plastic a little and glued the magnet in once it worked properly

    I may try this tomorrow
    Try rotating the arm 180' (in other words turn it upside down to the way it's sitting on the shaft now) Also make sure it's positioned half way up and not right at the top or right at the bottom. We have had this same problem a number of time and when people rotate the arm it has worked.
    Last edited by noboot; 03-19-2020 at 05:19 PM. Reason: Additional information

  22. #122
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    Hello All!

    So, I just got my very first Spyder one week ago. It is a 2010 RTS. Today while I was riding, the center windshield arm broke. I noticed that the last comment on this thread was from 2014. I've looked at parts diagrams and it looks like this item is still not available unless I buy the entire motor assembly. Does anyone know If this parts is available from a vendor in the US? Is Noboot still making them in AUS? (I actually will sent him a message directly, but I cannot pm until I make my first post).

    Has anyone driven your Spyder RT without a windshield?

    Thanks,
    Rachel

  23. #123
    Very Active Member ThreeWheels's Avatar
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    Hi Rachel. Noboot is your man. The last post was actually just a few months ago, so yes, this is still a hot issue.
    If it ain't broke, don't break it.
    IBA #47122
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  24. #124
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rljcorbie View Post
    Hello All!

    So, I just got my very first Spyder one week ago. It is a 2010 RTS. Today while I was riding, the center windshield arm broke. I noticed that the last comment on this thread was from 2014. I've looked at parts diagrams and it looks like this item is still not available unless I buy the entire motor assembly. Does anyone know If this parts is available from a vendor in the US? Is Noboot still making them in AUS? (I actually will sent him a message directly, but I cannot pm until I make my first post).

    Has anyone driven your Spyder RT without a windshield?

    Thanks,
    Rachel
    Actually a few months (6-8 ? ) .... BRP finally decided to make the ARM available as a separate part ..... However it's the same CRAPPY one as earlier ..... before " noboot " made His commercially available, I bought a broken one from another member here .... first I JB welded it together ... so it was stabil , then I made a temp plate and cut out two pieces of 20ga. steel .... I wrapped the entire arm ( end to end ) with a strip of 20ga. .... I welded all three pieces together. I have my original and my 14 RT has the one I patched ....... I made a few for friends, but then " noboot " made His available .... I highly recommend buying His ..... Mike

  25. #125
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    Thanks for the info. Just curious, from start to finish, about how long did it take you to replace the arm?

    Thanks!

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