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light issues 2014 RTL
Okay here's the deal, I bought a new 2014 RT Limited last weekend and the front daylight running lights, tag and tail light are shutting off after riding for right at 30min! They will only come on when the machine is cold so that tells me something is getting hot and causing the issue. I have checked all the relays and fuses and found nothing there causing it. Has anyone else had this issue or maybe know what could be going on?
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
Clearly it's not the fuses or relays.
It must be something else in the harness.
I'm afraid you'll need to check all of the connections in the wiring harness.
You might find something obvious, like a burnt or damaged connector.
On the other hand, you may never actually find the problem.
Simply breaking and remaking the connections could repair the issue.
I hate stuff like this. Especially if the latter is the case, since you never find a definitive problem to fix.
Good luck and please keep us posted.
If it ain't broke, don't break it.
IBA #47122
2020 RT Limited Asphalt Grey
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That's what I was afraid of, how hard is it to pull the panels and where do I start?
Thanks!
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Very Active Member
it could be the fuse working like a thermal coupling. as it heats up with the draw of the lights, it opens than as it cools it closes again.
NO BIKE AT THIS TIME
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Originally Posted by cuznjohn
it could be the fuse working like a thermal coupling. as it heats up with the draw of the lights, it opens than as it cools it closes again.
Which fuse? And whats up with these special torque screws with the pin in the middle, I can't even remove them!!
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Very Active Member
I was going to suspect a poor quality relay that is heating up and the coil drops.
Dont remove the security torx bolts. Thats why BRP put them in, so you dont remove those. They hold a pin that sits in a grommet on the other side, they do not get removed unless you break the pin.
Relays and fuses are in the junction boxes up front in the frunk. FIRST thing I would do is open the panels and pull and reseat each of the relays. Same with the fuses looking for any that are real easy to remove indicating a poorly formed connector or crimp. I had one in the transmission control connector that I was very lucky to find and fix.
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Originally Posted by jcthorne
I was going to suspect a poor quality relay that is heating up and the coil drops.
Dont remove the security torx bolts. Thats why BRP put them in, so you dont remove those. They hold a pin that sits in a grommet on the other side, they do not get removed unless you break the pin.
Relays and fuses are in the junction boxes up front in the frunk. FIRST thing I would do is open the panels and pull and reseat each of the relays. Same with the fuses looking for any that are real easy to remove indicating a poorly formed connector or crimp. I had one in the transmission control connector that I was very lucky to find and fix.
That was the first thing I did was to check all the fuses and relays, I even swaped out the relays with matxhing ones in the other fuse box and the lights wouldn't come on. So your telling me I cant even remove the covers off this thing because they have it booby trapped for the warranty!
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Originally Posted by jcthorne
I was going to suspect a poor quality relay that is heating up and the coil drops.
Dont remove the security torx bolts. Thats why BRP put them in, so you dont remove those. They hold a pin that sits in a grommet on the other side, they do not get removed unless you break the pin.
Relays and fuses are in the junction boxes up front in the frunk. FIRST thing I would do is open the panels and pull and reseat each of the relays. Same with the fuses looking for any that are real easy to remove indicating a poorly formed connector or crimp. I had one in the transmission control connector that I was very lucky to find and fix.
I miss understood about the security screw. I see what you meant now. Lol
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Active Member
Take your machine back to the dealer. It should be covered by the warranty.
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Take it back to the dealer for sure but you might also want to purchase the service manual. There are several places that sell it online. It will tell you what panels need to come off for each job. Think of your Spyder as a giant puzzle. Or maybe as a giant PITA.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Originally Posted by can-am sam
Take your machine back to the dealer. It should be covered by the warranty.
I already took it to one od the dealers local to me and I knew more about the machine than the tech, it took him an hour to finally get his computer to connect to my spyder and read the codes! the dealer i bought it from is 3.5hrs away, we might be going back there in a week or so to buy another one and if i do ill take it back to them. I have all the panels off of it and have checked every plug I can find and still no luck?
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Mod Monster
Originally Posted by KCannaday
I already took it to one od the dealers local to me and I knew more about the machine than the tech, it took him an hour to finally get his computer to connect to my spyder and read the codes! the dealer i bought it from is 3.5hrs away, we might be going back there in a week or so to buy another one and if i do ill take it back to them. I have all the panels off of it and have checked every plug I can find and still no luck?
Elusive issue. All the things I'd suspect have been mentioned. You look for commonalities between all items of course. Even pulling the body off (we call it Tupperware), without an eye that readily knows what things should look like, it might be a needle in a haystack. I'm going to look at the schematic and see if I can find anything that jumps out.
NOW.. Since you are in OK City, you have a short ryde to Springfield MO where the BEST techs in the nation have Pitbull Powersports and Lamonster garage. I bet if you set an appointment, they could chase it down. But as has been suggested.... Warranty.
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Phil - Tyler Texas
2010 RT-Premiere Edition (Named DARTH) | Timeless Black | All My Mods--- ARE HERE | Phil. 4:4
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Mod Monster
I just looked at the schematic ( I printed a huge one that hangs in my garage).
F1 is the fuse that powers the DRLs and the plate light (I stopped hunting when I found that commonality). It runs through the ignition switch then heads to each of the lights through a couple of the connectors. It also powers something in the cluster (not sure what) so you may also see an issue there.
IF you can catch it failing, I'd immediately do a voltage reading at the F1 location, then at the back of the ignition switch (hard to do), etc. Good luck.
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Phil - Tyler Texas
2010 RT-Premiere Edition (Named DARTH) | Timeless Black | All My Mods--- ARE HERE | Phil. 4:4
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The issue was a bad wiring plug! The dealer was able to find a similar case on the web and sure enough that was the problem. When the plug gets hot it looses contact in one of the wires or something.
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