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  1. #1
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    Default Mixing two oils both within spec

    Hi
    I have amsoil in my spyder. Full synthetic. Is is ok if I topped off with brp's synthetic blend. Probably almost a quart I suspect. I have seen mixing questions with non specd oil. But two within brp's specifications. Is that ok?

    Fas

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  2. #2
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Me personally, I would not mix. Just a good practice for oils and greases. Will it work, probably, will it cause damage, doubtful, but you never know.

    PK

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    Very Active Member wyliec's Avatar
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    Default

    Sorry I missed that thread. Thank you wyliec.

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    Very Active Member bmccaffrey's Avatar
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    Perfectly fine

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    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Sure..!!

    when topping off and original is not available you can mix. If larger quantaties are used I usually go ahead and change the oil when I get back. I always have a quart with me and for sure at home....
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  7. #7
    Very Active Member KX5062's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmccaffrey View Post
    Perfectly fine
    Your choice, of course, but for me and technically, yes.
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    Registered Users mtdoragary's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KX5062 View Post
    Your choice, of course, but for me and technically, yes.
    You can. But since there are two different basic types of pure synthetic oil, I would PREFER to make sure I didn't mix the two different types. That said, if nothing else is available, topping off with ANY oil is better than running too low! I've been using synthetic oil for forty years.
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  9. #9
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    Yes
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  10. #10
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Many years ago the answer would have been much different. (Some of this fueled by oil companies trying to generate loyalty but some truth to it as well).

    But those days are long gone. (Well, the problem part, not the brand loyalty part)

    Most oils will degrade the performance of Amsoil because Amsoil is a superior lubricant. But even a bit degraded, Amsoil will still outperform most other products.

    Be sure you're using a decent quality oil. Blended is ok. BRP blended or synthetic is fine because both are wet clutch rated, etc., and obviously meet all specs. If you are using another brand to top off just be sure the ratings are compatible with your Spyder. The oils will be compatible, no problem.

    Really, it's not the big deal it used to be in years gone by.
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  11. #11
    Registered Users mtdoragary's Avatar
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    Default synthetic

    Like I said, I would stick with one brand such as Mobil1 or Amsoil just to keep the chemistry compatible. It won't HURT to mix, but it might HELP not to mix. .Good synthetic oils often use a combination of up to three different synthetic base fluids, including synthetic esters, polyalphaolefin (PAO) and alkylated aromatics. Regardless of the exact chemical makeup, synthetics share similarities. Whereas conventional oils contain molecules of varying sizes, the molecular structures in synthetics are consistent in mass and shape. This uniformity means those molecules create less friction as they collide, and less friction means less heat.
    In essence, each synthetic manufacturer can create designer molecules to create oil with specific performance properties. They also mix in additives and other liquids such as detergents, dispersants,antioxidants, friction modifiers and anti-wear additives, all in varying amounts tweaked to result in an exact blend for specific environmental conditions.
    As a result of this control over chemistry, synthetics have a number of significant advantages over conventional oil. You already know that synthetics flow better in cold weather, making engine starts easier and offering better protection. In addition, synthetics resist viscosity changes at extremely high temperatures that can break down or evaporate molecules in conventional oil. When this kind of deterioration happens, metal-on-metal contact may occur, causing permanent damage to the engine.
    Because synthetics are slicker than conventional oil, they allow for smoother, cooler engine operation. That means more horsepower and better gas mileage. But in some cases, that same super-slick consistency may exacerbate existing internal or external engine leaks, resulting in blow-by and burn-off. Keep in mind that this happens only in engines where leaks are already an issue.
    3:16

  12. #12
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    all good oils are compatible -- no problem mixing them

    I've done and will continue to do it if the need arises

  13. #13
    Very Active Member wyliec's Avatar
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    Default Hey Fas

    I'm not trying to be a smarta$$; but, I notice you mention you maybe down almost a quart. I hope you checked the oil level per your owner's manual or the instructions pasted on the side of the oil reservoir, if BRP still puts them there.

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    twenty years ago this may have been a problem. Today? Meh.


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    Quote Originally Posted by wyliec View Post
    I'm not trying to be a smarta$$; but, I notice you mention you maybe down almost a quart. I hope you checked the oil level per your owner's manual or the instructions pasted on the side of the oil reservoir, if BRP still puts them there.
    Thanks for all the replies. No I was meaning to say it was not going to be just an ounce.

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    Very Active Member SNOOPY's Avatar
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    With the question answered here, let me ask another...


    It was stated here that Amsoil is a superior oil compared to others...why?

    Why would we think that Amsoil is superior to (let's say) Mobil who spends millions of dollars on development and consistency?

    I know lots of places that sell Amsoil and know they have been around awhile, but why do we think their oil is worth twice as much in some cases than other major brands?

    Personally I think quality oil has reached its limit. I don't particularly care if they say I can go 10,000 miles between changes (or in BMWs case 15,000 miles), I'm changing my oil every 3,500-4,000 miles like I always have. Oil gets dirty, it needs to be changed.

    Great that we say it lasts longer, that pleases the environmentalist, but it still needs to be changed when dirty.

    .

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    Quote Originally Posted by SNOOPY View Post
    With the question answered here, let me ask another...


    It was stated here that Amsoil is a superior oil compared to others...why?

    Why would we think that Amsoil is superior to (let's say) Mobil who spends millions of dollars on development and consistency?

    I know lots of places that sell Amsoil and know they have been around awhile, but why do we think their oil is worth twice as much in some cases than other major brands?

    Personally I think quality oil has reached its limit. I don't particularly care if they say I can go 10,000 miles between changes (or in BMWs case 15,000 miles), I'm changing my oil every 3,500-4,000 miles like I always have. Oil gets dirty, it needs to be changed.

    Great that we say it lasts longer, that pleases the environmentalist, but it still needs to be changed when dirty.

    .
    Your right snoopy. Which is why I stopped over thinking oil quite a few years ago. I always say, run what works for you and puts a smile on your face.

  18. #18
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SNOOPY View Post
    With the question answered here, let me ask another...


    It was stated here that Amsoil is a superior oil compared to others...why?

    Why would we think that Amsoil is superior to (let's say) Mobil who spends millions of dollars on development and consistency?

    I know lots of places that sell Amsoil and know they have been around awhile, but why do we think their oil is worth twice as much in some cases than other major brands?

    Personally I think quality oil has reached its limit. I don't particularly care if they say I can go 10,000 miles between changes (or in BMWs case 15,000 miles), I'm changing my oil every 3,500-4,000 miles like I always have. Oil gets dirty, it needs to be changed.

    Great that we say it lasts longer, that pleases the environmentalist, but it still needs to be changed when dirty. .
    Why is bottled water better than tap? They look identical. And tap water is much cheaper and easier to get!

    Why is billet better than pot cast metal? (as in the windshield arm on the RT). You will have people say 'I've run my windshield up and down for 50,000 miles and it's fine. You don't need a better windshield arm. While at the same time these broken arms are causing a fair number of riders a great deal of grief.

    They say 'The proof is in the pudding' and they are right.

    I'm not saying that Amsoil is the best possible oil, nor am I saying that we are all going to die if we don't use it. It's just a very good option for lubricating your Spyder. And 'Why' is a very good question.

    It is a proven fact that an Engineered oil (ie. Amsoil and a few others) is a better lubricant than a doctored mineral oil (ie. most so called 'Synthetics'). The additive package in these 'Synthetics' is not designed to lubricate, it is designed to protect the weak oil chains from damage and breakdown. Once the additives go away (which they do) then the oil breaks down pretty quickly and your lubrication goes away.

    I don't want to bore people by rehashing the details. And they are readily available if you want to do the research. Everyone has an oil opinion, but how many are based on fact and actual testing? Not that I blame people. Research takes time and it's a hassle to have your oil tested. Very few do either.

    As far as 'Dirty', that is what filters are for. I've run as far a 6,400 miles of very hot, very hard, somewhat torturous miles and had my oil tested. Not only was it not 'Dirty' but the parameters were well within specs.

    You can change your oil as often as you like, it's your Spyder. And if you're not using a true, engineered at the refinery stage synthetic oil like Amsoil, and you're not having it tested, I highly recommend changing it at 3,000-3,500 miles. Especially if you're riding 2 up and or pulling a trailer. Not because it will be dirty, because it's probably not. But because it's almost certainly going away and you're no longer getting the required protection.
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  19. #19
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    So the tests done by a member of this site that amsoil lost viscosity by 4000 miles means nothing? All oil breaks down better or best? Superior? Doubt it!
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    Very Active Member wyliec's Avatar
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    With all that's been said, I'll continue with the BRP, XPS blend and change every 4,600 miles, like stated in the owner's manual. If the sky should fall one day, I'll be sure to let everyone know.

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    Very Active Member SNOOPY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wyliec View Post
    With all that's been said, I'll continue with the BRP, XPS blend and change every 4,600 miles, like stated in the owner's manual. If the sky should fall one day, I'll be sure to let everyone know.

    So far, I'm using the BRP oil also.

    Good point about testing Ron, I've had my track cars oil tested at times and never an issue.

    I have a couple test containers in front of me for Blackstone Labs, I'll have to test out my Spyder oil near next oil change.

    .

  22. #22
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highwayman2013 View Post
    So the tests done by a member of this site that amsoil lost viscosity by 4000 miles means nothing? All oil breaks down better or best? Superior? Doubt it!
    Another good question. Though I don't know of anyone suggesting his lab tests 'Mean Nothing'. I've shared my lab test results with that poster and he has shared his with me. Neither of us are quite sure what to make of it. I share my experience here on Spyderlovers and he shares his.

    True, all oils break down. It's the amount of endurance to the finish line that we are discussing. And if you look at the relative results from both his and my tests, they demonstrate that the true synthetic oils outlast the others. My test results show a more dramatic difference. Why he gets lower numbers across the board may have more to do with the testing method than difference in results.

    Still, the testing methods, and you would think the outcomes. are supposed to be standardized.

    That is a quandary yet to be explained.
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  23. #23
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SNOOPY View Post
    So far, I'm using the BRP oil also.

    Good point about testing Ron, I've had my track cars oil tested at times and never an issue.

    I have a couple test containers in front of me for Blackstone Labs, I'll have to test out my Spyder oil near next oil change.

    .
    I hope you do. And I'd like to see the results.

    This isn't about who is right and who is wrong. It's about sharing information and making an informed choice. It's all good!
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  24. #24
    Very Active Member bmccaffrey's Avatar
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    Ok
    You guys are talking over my head. I'll store all that info. on my brain hard drive for future use

  25. #25
    Very Active Member SNOOPY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    I hope you do. And I'd like to see the results.

    This isn't about who is right and who is wrong. It's about sharing information and making an informed choice. It's all good!

    I agree.

    Dont mean for my post to sound right or wrong, just gathering info for an informed decision on my part....although I don't think anyone will change my mind on a 3500-4000 mile oil change. Lol

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